Calçots in Barcelona
Jan 4th, 2024 | 12:10 PM
#1
Original Poster
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,790
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Calçots in Barcelona
Hi all! I will be in Barcelona in February and hoping to (finally) eat some calçots. Anyone with a good restaurant recommendation?
This will not be a Michelin-level budget trip, but any restaurant, tapas bar or general eatery recommendations will be welcome.
This will not be a Michelin-level budget trip, but any restaurant, tapas bar or general eatery recommendations will be welcome.
Jan 4th, 2024 | 11:42 PM
#2
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,662
Likes: 0
marigross,
This is my friend Marta's list from Forever Barcelona of the places she has calçots in the city. I've had them with her in Tarragona in March but not in Barcelona.
https://www.foreverbarcelona.com/cat...-in-barcelona/
And Marta's guide to eating them properly-
https://www.foreverbarcelona.com/cal...-spring-onion/
I'm sure rialtogrl knows of some good places.
This is my friend Marta's list from Forever Barcelona of the places she has calçots in the city. I've had them with her in Tarragona in March but not in Barcelona.
https://www.foreverbarcelona.com/cat...-in-barcelona/
And Marta's guide to eating them properly-
https://www.foreverbarcelona.com/cal...-spring-onion/
I'm sure rialtogrl knows of some good places.
Jan 5th, 2024 | 05:38 AM
#3
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 25,358
Likes: 0
Hi, Marigross! Good to see you here!
I remember asking that question more than 10 years ago on this forum and on TA. We ended up having 2 calcots dinners--one in Barcelona at La Parra (Sants; fair) ) and one outside the city, at CAN MARTI, in Sarria (excellent.). Now this was a long time ago but the places are still in business. It was a lovely day, getting up to Sarria and sitting on the terrace of the restaurant overlooking the city.
https://www.noucanmarti.com/en/
It should be near the end of this food report:
BARCELONA DINING REPORT Winter 2011
Here:
<<CAN MARTI
I was determined to sample calcots during this trip. I had been to Barcelona before but always missed the Jan-March season for this much-beloved variety of winter onion, which resemble the leeks that we have back in the US and are sold in large bundles here in the markets. Although there are restaurants in the city that offer calcots, I wanted to try them grilled over a wood fire in a more rustic setting.
About noon, we set off on the FGC train from Placa Catalunya, getting down about 15 minutes later at Peu de Funicular, north of Sarria on the same train line. There is a funicular here that whisks passengers up the steep Vallvidrera hill to the neighborhood that houses the restaurant.
Unfortunately, the person who answered the phone at the restaurant had assured me that it was only 10 minutes from the train stop to the Can Marti. Did she think I was driving??
She also neglected to mention the funicular!
What ensued was a STEEP walk, that so depleted us that after about 20 minutes of panting, I literally planted myself in the narrow road and flagged down a passing workman in a truck and begged him to give us a lift up the hill.
Can Marti sits amidst private houses in what looks like an upscale suburb of Barcelona; request a window seat and the entire city will spread before you, with the Monastery of Pedralbes in the foreground. That is, if you have a sunny day, which we did not. It was cold, drizzly, and a bit foggy.
So the view was compromised, but the food? I loved this place! It would not have been more rustic if it had been in the Cerdanya. The restaurant appears to be a small private home, with a glassed-in dining room at the rear and a large brick grill area set into the back of the house. Piles of wood are stacked everywhere.
The menu is in Catalan, but they do have one in English as well. (But not in Castillian for some reason!) No English is spoken.
Set menus are offered (including a calcotada feast for 30 euro that included a parade of grilled meats, wine, etc) but we chose from the a la carte offerings:
Everything was grilled over the open fire.
Artichoke. (6 euro) delicious!
Torrades amb tomaquet. (here they bring you the toasted bread, along with a few small tomatoes and a garlic clove; oil and salt are already on the table; you make your own pa amb tomaquet) 1.10 euro each)
Calcots. A bundle of about a dozen, along with a bowl of piquant romesco for dipping (one ingredient is secret so I could not get the recipe). 8 euro. Incredibly sweet!! I Loved these charred beauties!! Bibs are supplied but prepare to get very messy!
Mongetas, or white beans 2.90 euro. Excellent--with a crunch on the outside that might have come from bread crumbs.
1/4 rabbit 5.50. My friend thought this gamier than those in the US; I liked it; portion is for small eaters, though.
Costelles de xai, or lamb ribs 14.50 euro. Tiny ribs and one other part of the lamb. Tasty, with char.
With water and house red wine, plus two cafes, the total was 45.80 euro for two.
If you are here in calcot season and you want to sample true Catalan food, I would consider this restaurant an essential stop on an eating tour. The entire trip from downtown takes under an hour. Do not miss the funicular at the train station. Make sure to sit in the second or third car of the train so you do not miss the short platform at Peu de Funicular.
An afternoon I will not soon forget!
I remember asking that question more than 10 years ago on this forum and on TA. We ended up having 2 calcots dinners--one in Barcelona at La Parra (Sants; fair) ) and one outside the city, at CAN MARTI, in Sarria (excellent.). Now this was a long time ago but the places are still in business. It was a lovely day, getting up to Sarria and sitting on the terrace of the restaurant overlooking the city.
https://www.noucanmarti.com/en/
It should be near the end of this food report:
BARCELONA DINING REPORT Winter 2011
Here:
<<CAN MARTI
I was determined to sample calcots during this trip. I had been to Barcelona before but always missed the Jan-March season for this much-beloved variety of winter onion, which resemble the leeks that we have back in the US and are sold in large bundles here in the markets. Although there are restaurants in the city that offer calcots, I wanted to try them grilled over a wood fire in a more rustic setting.
About noon, we set off on the FGC train from Placa Catalunya, getting down about 15 minutes later at Peu de Funicular, north of Sarria on the same train line. There is a funicular here that whisks passengers up the steep Vallvidrera hill to the neighborhood that houses the restaurant.
Unfortunately, the person who answered the phone at the restaurant had assured me that it was only 10 minutes from the train stop to the Can Marti. Did she think I was driving??
She also neglected to mention the funicular!
What ensued was a STEEP walk, that so depleted us that after about 20 minutes of panting, I literally planted myself in the narrow road and flagged down a passing workman in a truck and begged him to give us a lift up the hill.
Can Marti sits amidst private houses in what looks like an upscale suburb of Barcelona; request a window seat and the entire city will spread before you, with the Monastery of Pedralbes in the foreground. That is, if you have a sunny day, which we did not. It was cold, drizzly, and a bit foggy.
So the view was compromised, but the food? I loved this place! It would not have been more rustic if it had been in the Cerdanya. The restaurant appears to be a small private home, with a glassed-in dining room at the rear and a large brick grill area set into the back of the house. Piles of wood are stacked everywhere.
The menu is in Catalan, but they do have one in English as well. (But not in Castillian for some reason!) No English is spoken.
Set menus are offered (including a calcotada feast for 30 euro that included a parade of grilled meats, wine, etc) but we chose from the a la carte offerings:
Everything was grilled over the open fire.
Artichoke. (6 euro) delicious!
Torrades amb tomaquet. (here they bring you the toasted bread, along with a few small tomatoes and a garlic clove; oil and salt are already on the table; you make your own pa amb tomaquet) 1.10 euro each)
Calcots. A bundle of about a dozen, along with a bowl of piquant romesco for dipping (one ingredient is secret so I could not get the recipe). 8 euro. Incredibly sweet!! I Loved these charred beauties!! Bibs are supplied but prepare to get very messy!
Mongetas, or white beans 2.90 euro. Excellent--with a crunch on the outside that might have come from bread crumbs.
1/4 rabbit 5.50. My friend thought this gamier than those in the US; I liked it; portion is for small eaters, though.
Costelles de xai, or lamb ribs 14.50 euro. Tiny ribs and one other part of the lamb. Tasty, with char.
With water and house red wine, plus two cafes, the total was 45.80 euro for two.
If you are here in calcot season and you want to sample true Catalan food, I would consider this restaurant an essential stop on an eating tour. The entire trip from downtown takes under an hour. Do not miss the funicular at the train station. Make sure to sit in the second or third car of the train so you do not miss the short platform at Peu de Funicular.
An afternoon I will not soon forget!
Last edited by ekscrunchy; Jan 5th, 2024 at 05:46 AM.
Jan 5th, 2024 | 06:40 AM
#4
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,662
Likes: 0
eks,
That sounds like a great adventure, and it's much better to have them in that rustic setting!
If marigross doesn't have time for an excursion outside of town, here are more ideas for calçots in Barcelona from Culinary Backstreets.
https://culinarybackstreets.com/citi...re-in-the-air/
That sounds like a great adventure, and it's much better to have them in that rustic setting!
If marigross doesn't have time for an excursion outside of town, here are more ideas for calçots in Barcelona from Culinary Backstreets.
https://culinarybackstreets.com/citi...re-in-the-air/
Last edited by Maribel; Jan 5th, 2024 at 07:09 AM.
Jan 9th, 2024 | 10:10 AM
#6
Original Poster
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,790
Likes: 0
marigross,
This is my friend Marta's list from Forever Barcelona of the places she has calçots in the city. I've had them with her in Tarragona in March but not in Barcelona.
https://www.foreverbarcelona.com/cat...-in-barcelona/
And Marta's guide to eating them properly-
https://www.foreverbarcelona.com/cal...-spring-onion/
I'm sure rialtogrl knows of some good places.
This is my friend Marta's list from Forever Barcelona of the places she has calçots in the city. I've had them with her in Tarragona in March but not in Barcelona.
https://www.foreverbarcelona.com/cat...-in-barcelona/
And Marta's guide to eating them properly-
https://www.foreverbarcelona.com/cal...-spring-onion/
I'm sure rialtogrl knows of some good places.
Jan 9th, 2024 | 10:14 AM
#7
Original Poster
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,790
Likes: 0
Hi, Marigross! Good to see you here!
I remember asking that question more than 10 years ago on this forum and on TA. We ended up having 2 calcots dinners--one in Barcelona at La Parra (Sants; fair) ) and one outside the city, at CAN MARTI, in Sarria (excellent.). Now this was a long time ago but the places are still in business. It was a lovely day, getting up to Sarria and sitting on the terrace of the restaurant overlooking the city.
https://www.noucanmarti.com/en/
It should be near the end of this food report:
BARCELONA DINING REPORT Winter 2011
Here:
<<CAN MARTI
I was determined to sample calcots during this trip. I had been to Barcelona before but always missed the Jan-March season for this much-beloved variety of winter onion, which resemble the leeks that we have back in the US and are sold in large bundles here in the markets. Although there are restaurants in the city that offer calcots, I wanted to try them grilled over a wood fire in a more rustic setting.
About noon, we set off on the FGC train from Placa Catalunya, getting down about 15 minutes later at Peu de Funicular, north of Sarria on the same train line. There is a funicular here that whisks passengers up the steep Vallvidrera hill to the neighborhood that houses the restaurant.
Unfortunately, the person who answered the phone at the restaurant had assured me that it was only 10 minutes from the train stop to the Can Marti. Did she think I was driving??
She also neglected to mention the funicular!
What ensued was a STEEP walk, that so depleted us that after about 20 minutes of panting, I literally planted myself in the narrow road and flagged down a passing workman in a truck and begged him to give us a lift up the hill.
Can Marti sits amidst private houses in what looks like an upscale suburb of Barcelona; request a window seat and the entire city will spread before you, with the Monastery of Pedralbes in the foreground. That is, if you have a sunny day, which we did not. It was cold, drizzly, and a bit foggy.
So the view was compromised, but the food? I loved this place! It would not have been more rustic if it had been in the Cerdanya. The restaurant appears to be a small private home, with a glassed-in dining room at the rear and a large brick grill area set into the back of the house. Piles of wood are stacked everywhere.
The menu is in Catalan, but they do have one in English as well. (But not in Castillian for some reason!) No English is spoken.
Set menus are offered (including a calcotada feast for 30 euro that included a parade of grilled meats, wine, etc) but we chose from the a la carte offerings:
Everything was grilled over the open fire.
Artichoke. (6 euro) delicious!
Torrades amb tomaquet. (here they bring you the toasted bread, along with a few small tomatoes and a garlic clove; oil and salt are already on the table; you make your own pa amb tomaquet) 1.10 euro each)
Calcots. A bundle of about a dozen, along with a bowl of piquant romesco for dipping (one ingredient is secret so I could not get the recipe). 8 euro. Incredibly sweet!! I Loved these charred beauties!! Bibs are supplied but prepare to get very messy!
Mongetas, or white beans 2.90 euro. Excellent--with a crunch on the outside that might have come from bread crumbs.
1/4 rabbit 5.50. My friend thought this gamier than those in the US; I liked it; portion is for small eaters, though.
Costelles de xai, or lamb ribs 14.50 euro. Tiny ribs and one other part of the lamb. Tasty, with char.
With water and house red wine, plus two cafes, the total was 45.80 euro for two.
If you are here in calcot season and you want to sample true Catalan food, I would consider this restaurant an essential stop on an eating tour. The entire trip from downtown takes under an hour. Do not miss the funicular at the train station. Make sure to sit in the second or third car of the train so you do not miss the short platform at Peu de Funicular.
An afternoon I will not soon forget!
I remember asking that question more than 10 years ago on this forum and on TA. We ended up having 2 calcots dinners--one in Barcelona at La Parra (Sants; fair) ) and one outside the city, at CAN MARTI, in Sarria (excellent.). Now this was a long time ago but the places are still in business. It was a lovely day, getting up to Sarria and sitting on the terrace of the restaurant overlooking the city.
https://www.noucanmarti.com/en/
It should be near the end of this food report:
BARCELONA DINING REPORT Winter 2011
Here:
<<CAN MARTI
I was determined to sample calcots during this trip. I had been to Barcelona before but always missed the Jan-March season for this much-beloved variety of winter onion, which resemble the leeks that we have back in the US and are sold in large bundles here in the markets. Although there are restaurants in the city that offer calcots, I wanted to try them grilled over a wood fire in a more rustic setting.
About noon, we set off on the FGC train from Placa Catalunya, getting down about 15 minutes later at Peu de Funicular, north of Sarria on the same train line. There is a funicular here that whisks passengers up the steep Vallvidrera hill to the neighborhood that houses the restaurant.
Unfortunately, the person who answered the phone at the restaurant had assured me that it was only 10 minutes from the train stop to the Can Marti. Did she think I was driving??
She also neglected to mention the funicular!
What ensued was a STEEP walk, that so depleted us that after about 20 minutes of panting, I literally planted myself in the narrow road and flagged down a passing workman in a truck and begged him to give us a lift up the hill.
Can Marti sits amidst private houses in what looks like an upscale suburb of Barcelona; request a window seat and the entire city will spread before you, with the Monastery of Pedralbes in the foreground. That is, if you have a sunny day, which we did not. It was cold, drizzly, and a bit foggy.
So the view was compromised, but the food? I loved this place! It would not have been more rustic if it had been in the Cerdanya. The restaurant appears to be a small private home, with a glassed-in dining room at the rear and a large brick grill area set into the back of the house. Piles of wood are stacked everywhere.
The menu is in Catalan, but they do have one in English as well. (But not in Castillian for some reason!) No English is spoken.
Set menus are offered (including a calcotada feast for 30 euro that included a parade of grilled meats, wine, etc) but we chose from the a la carte offerings:
Everything was grilled over the open fire.
Artichoke. (6 euro) delicious!
Torrades amb tomaquet. (here they bring you the toasted bread, along with a few small tomatoes and a garlic clove; oil and salt are already on the table; you make your own pa amb tomaquet) 1.10 euro each)
Calcots. A bundle of about a dozen, along with a bowl of piquant romesco for dipping (one ingredient is secret so I could not get the recipe). 8 euro. Incredibly sweet!! I Loved these charred beauties!! Bibs are supplied but prepare to get very messy!
Mongetas, or white beans 2.90 euro. Excellent--with a crunch on the outside that might have come from bread crumbs.
1/4 rabbit 5.50. My friend thought this gamier than those in the US; I liked it; portion is for small eaters, though.
Costelles de xai, or lamb ribs 14.50 euro. Tiny ribs and one other part of the lamb. Tasty, with char.
With water and house red wine, plus two cafes, the total was 45.80 euro for two.
If you are here in calcot season and you want to sample true Catalan food, I would consider this restaurant an essential stop on an eating tour. The entire trip from downtown takes under an hour. Do not miss the funicular at the train station. Make sure to sit in the second or third car of the train so you do not miss the short platform at Peu de Funicular.
An afternoon I will not soon forget!
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Jan 9th, 2024 | 10:19 AM
#8
Original Poster
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,790
Likes: 0
eks,
That sounds like a great adventure, and it's much better to have them in that rustic setting!
If marigross doesn't have time for an excursion outside of town, here are more ideas for calçots in Barcelona from Culinary Backstreets.
https://culinarybackstreets.com/citi...re-in-the-air/
That sounds like a great adventure, and it's much better to have them in that rustic setting!
If marigross doesn't have time for an excursion outside of town, here are more ideas for calçots in Barcelona from Culinary Backstreets.
https://culinarybackstreets.com/citi...re-in-the-air/
Jan 11th, 2024 | 08:02 AM
#9
Joined: Nov 2022
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
Do you just want to eat calçots in the city of Barcelona or make a calçotada? Are you going to be alone in Barcelona or can you get around? How old are you? It's not really a very important question for eating calçots, but if it coincides with some calçotada for me, and you are more or less from our generation, you can add it. The fun part of calçotada is spending the whole day cooking the calçots, eating and drinking...
And one more note. Calçots are basically for lunch, not dinner.
And one more note. Calçots are basically for lunch, not dinner.
Last edited by Besalu; Jan 11th, 2024 at 08:06 AM.
Jan 12th, 2024 | 07:36 AM
#10
Original Poster
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,790
Likes: 0
Do you just want to eat calçots in the city of Barcelona or make a calçotada? Are you going to be alone in Barcelona or can you get around? How old are you? It's not really a very important question for eating calçots, but if it coincides with some calçotada for me, and you are more or less from our generation, you can add it. The fun part of calçotada is spending the whole day cooking the calçots, eating and drinking...
And one more note. Calçots are basically for lunch, not dinner.
And one more note. Calçots are basically for lunch, not dinner.
Jan 13th, 2024 | 09:44 AM
#11
Joined: Nov 2022
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
Well, on this occasion I recommend somewhere in Barcelona just to try the food. You can go to Can Cortada, the building is spectacular inside a defense tower. It's impossible to think that you are in Barcelona and it reminds you of the rusticity of calçotades: https://cancortada.com/ca/
Within the Sarrià neighborhood there are good traditional food restaurants where you can ask if they have calçots: p.e. Ca la Tresa, Casa Joana...If you go to one of them you should first stop at Bar Tomás to have some bravas, the best known in Barcelona.
A different concept is the restaurant at the La Foixarda equestrian center (Montjuïch). It's a simple, casual place. They also make calçotades during the calçots season (February). If you look at the opinions you will see complaints about slow service, that is why I do not recommend going to the Poble Espanyol restaurant. As an experience, horse riding place is good. It's smaller and you have nice views of the MNAC. In terms of cuisine it would be similar to Can Martí.
Then there are restaurants from large groups, like Grup Travi, Mussol... they are all good but I find them soulless.
Within the Sarrià neighborhood there are good traditional food restaurants where you can ask if they have calçots: p.e. Ca la Tresa, Casa Joana...If you go to one of them you should first stop at Bar Tomás to have some bravas, the best known in Barcelona.
A different concept is the restaurant at the La Foixarda equestrian center (Montjuïch). It's a simple, casual place. They also make calçotades during the calçots season (February). If you look at the opinions you will see complaints about slow service, that is why I do not recommend going to the Poble Espanyol restaurant. As an experience, horse riding place is good. It's smaller and you have nice views of the MNAC. In terms of cuisine it would be similar to Can Martí.
Then there are restaurants from large groups, like Grup Travi, Mussol... they are all good but I find them soulless.
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