CACHOPO, CABRALES & CARBAYONES Asturias..and "The Best Steak in The World"
Nov 21st, 2017 | 12:09 PM
#21
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Besides the Fontán market, we also browsed in a few interesting gourmet shops offering Asturian delicacies and items from the rest of Spain. Among these were Casa Veneranda, on Calle Melquiades Alvarez in the pedestrian zone, and Coalla Gourmet, across from the Fontán market.
The Real Instituto de Estudios Asturianos presented an interesting exhibit about the brown bear of the Cantabrian and Asturian mountains, so we spent an hour in that space, near the NH Hotel.
http://www.osodeasturias.es/
And, as I mentioned above, we made two separate visits to the art museum, also near our hotel. (Nothing is very far away in Oviedo!)
http://www.museobbaa.com/
We had two dinners in the city, subsequent to our excellent meal at Casa Fermin.
The first of these was at MESTURA, a very well regarded restaurant in an elegant and somewhat formal pastel dining room on the first floor of the Hotel España.
This dinner began with Salpicón de Bogavante, a variation on a lobster salad, and with (what else?) croquetas de jamón Iberico for my partner, who proclaimed them “good, but not nearly as good as the ones at Casa Fermin.” I agreed.
While the artichoke with smoked eel was not memorable, we both loved the Arroz Cremoso con Pato, rice with duck, not too dissimilar from a risotto.
Dessert: Pastry with marzipan served with turrón ice cream
All in all, this was a good dinner but not nearly as exciting, or tasty , as the dinner the night before at Fermín. For two of us, the price was: Euro 82.40
l http://www.mesturarestaurante.com/en...nte-in-oviedo/
After dinner, we walked a few blocks to the bulevar de Sidra, the Boulevard of Cider, a pedestrian street whose real name is Calle Gascona, lined on both sides with restaurants and bars offering cider, accompanied by the classic dishes of Asturian cuisine. One end of the street is marked by a giant wooden cider barrel. Since we had just finished dinner, we did not sample any of these locales, but if we had had more time in the city, we could certainly have passed part of a pleasant evening moving from one bar to another.
https://enjoyoviedo.wordpress.com/20...r-de-la-sidra/
The name of the street, Gascona, comes from the fact that many pilgrims from that French region settled here in the 13th Century, after stopping along the Camino route to Santiago.
The Real Instituto de Estudios Asturianos presented an interesting exhibit about the brown bear of the Cantabrian and Asturian mountains, so we spent an hour in that space, near the NH Hotel.
http://www.osodeasturias.es/
And, as I mentioned above, we made two separate visits to the art museum, also near our hotel. (Nothing is very far away in Oviedo!)
http://www.museobbaa.com/
We had two dinners in the city, subsequent to our excellent meal at Casa Fermin.
The first of these was at MESTURA, a very well regarded restaurant in an elegant and somewhat formal pastel dining room on the first floor of the Hotel España.
This dinner began with Salpicón de Bogavante, a variation on a lobster salad, and with (what else?) croquetas de jamón Iberico for my partner, who proclaimed them “good, but not nearly as good as the ones at Casa Fermin.” I agreed.
While the artichoke with smoked eel was not memorable, we both loved the Arroz Cremoso con Pato, rice with duck, not too dissimilar from a risotto.
Dessert: Pastry with marzipan served with turrón ice cream
All in all, this was a good dinner but not nearly as exciting, or tasty , as the dinner the night before at Fermín. For two of us, the price was: Euro 82.40
l http://www.mesturarestaurante.com/en...nte-in-oviedo/
After dinner, we walked a few blocks to the bulevar de Sidra, the Boulevard of Cider, a pedestrian street whose real name is Calle Gascona, lined on both sides with restaurants and bars offering cider, accompanied by the classic dishes of Asturian cuisine. One end of the street is marked by a giant wooden cider barrel. Since we had just finished dinner, we did not sample any of these locales, but if we had had more time in the city, we could certainly have passed part of a pleasant evening moving from one bar to another.
https://enjoyoviedo.wordpress.com/20...r-de-la-sidra/
The name of the street, Gascona, comes from the fact that many pilgrims from that French region settled here in the 13th Century, after stopping along the Camino route to Santiago.
Aug 20th, 2024 | 03:59 PM
#22
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Adding this article about Luarca, on my list for next visit to Asturias:
https://www.theguardian.com/travel/a...mertime-secret
https://www.theguardian.com/travel/a...mertime-secret
Aug 22nd, 2024 | 05:16 AM
#24
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Thanks so much!
Unfortunately, I never finished it but maybe will at least post some photos of the places we went after Oviedo... Oviedo is a truly underrated city.
From there we rented a car and drove to a great hotel in the teeny tiny hamlet of Cofino.
https://www.puebloastur.com/en
Nov 30th, 2024 | 02:54 AM
#25
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Nov 30th, 2024 | 09:15 AM
#26
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Just one day before they were awarded their 3rd Michelin star, we were fortunate at Saborea Lanzarote to attend a presentation of Esther Manzano and her son Jess (now chef de cuisine) of Casa Marcial in tiny La Salgar before the team of Nacho Manzano (Esther's brother) was awarded their 3rd Michelin star at the Michelin awards ceremony in Murcia.
Nov 30th, 2024 | 11:06 AM
#27
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Just one day before they were awarded their 3rd Michelin star, we were fortunate at Saborea Lanzarote to attend a presentation of Esther Manzano and her son Jess (now chef de cuisine) of Casa Marcial in tiny La Salgar before the team of Nacho Manzano (Esther's brother) was awarded their 3rd Michelin star at the Michelin awards ceremony in Murcia.
Maribel I just read that..good for them. We had a fantastic lunch there.
Nov 30th, 2024 | 11:18 AM
#28
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Yes, it's certainly worth the journey to tiny La Salgar, especially now.
In Teguise, at the two-day Saborea Lazarote festival, Esther and Chus (mother and son--Esther is Nacho Manzano's sister) prepared for us a cuajada de apio y pesto, which we were served. I think a version of this is on one of their tasting menus, "El Cachucha".
Far too many fine Asturian restaurants yet discovered to mention here, especially in the Cuenca Minera.
In Teguise, at the two-day Saborea Lazarote festival, Esther and Chus (mother and son--Esther is Nacho Manzano's sister) prepared for us a cuajada de apio y pesto, which we were served. I think a version of this is on one of their tasting menus, "El Cachucha".
Far too many fine Asturian restaurants yet discovered to mention here, especially in the Cuenca Minera.
Apr 11th, 2025 | 08:40 AM
#29
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Just a note for those who may be headed to Oviedo----a little update:
Mestura has morphed into an event space, Nacho Manzano of 3-Michelin starred Casa Marcial has opened two restaurants, the casual Gloria, in honor of his mother, and the more contemporary NM that serves tasting menus only.
Casa Fermn is still going strong, very strong, and still with moderate prices for the high quality, as is the small and charming CaSuso, highly recommended.
And the city's best gourmet delicatessen is still Coalla, with two branches in Gijn and now in Madrid.
As an alternative to the 5-star Eurostars Reconquista, if filled, as is the case always during the prize ceremonies, just up the street we like the 5-star Barcel Cervantes.
https://www.barcelo.com/es-es/barcelo-oviedo-cervantes/
And for the Bulevar de la Sidra, the very lively "cider house row", of the many back-to-back cider houses there, we very much like the farm-to-table gastro bar La Finca Agrobar, because the food is all local, the wait staff speaks to us in bable or "asturianu" and the small dining room is very atmospheric and doesn't have large rooms suited to groups, as you may find in others.
https://sidrerialafinca.es
The cider house ritual on this street is a great deal of fun, especially at night.
Runner up on El Bulevar de la Sidra: the cider house Ferroviario across the street.
https://www.elferroviario.es
As for sweets, the citizens of Oviedo have a very sweet tooth and their pastry shops, including the one you mentioned, Camilo de Blas, are legendary.
We just finished our last box of Moscovitas, which are feather light almond cookies bathed in rich chocolate, that one can purchase from the Rialto shop/tea room in Oviedo from 1926, They also have an outpost here in Madrid at Nuez de Balboa 86 and can be purchased at El Corte Ingls Club del Gourmet or the Gourmet Experience.
https://www.moscovitas.com
And just another vote for the lovely Casonas Asturianas, a government inspected series of inns in all sections of the Principado, with moderate prices, where eskcrunchy stayed at the 3 Cabos up in the hills with stunning views! We're headed for two weeks in August, a new one (for us) on the western side of the coast and one on the eastern side, near Ribadesella, a lovely seaside town. We've stayed in many of these Casonas Asturianas and have found them charming, homey, with delicious homemade sweets breads and jams for breakfast and very reasonably priced, all family owned.
https://www.casonasasturianas.com/en/
Eskcrunchy,
We're headed to Len tomorrow for Holy Week but this time wont be traveling to Bodega El Capricho in Jimnez de Jamuz for the "best steak in the world" (arguable, but what an experience!), since Jos Gordon now imports his buey specimens to Rocacho Plaza here in Madrid. It was a very interesting outing nonetheless.
Mestura has morphed into an event space, Nacho Manzano of 3-Michelin starred Casa Marcial has opened two restaurants, the casual Gloria, in honor of his mother, and the more contemporary NM that serves tasting menus only.
Casa Fermn is still going strong, very strong, and still with moderate prices for the high quality, as is the small and charming CaSuso, highly recommended.
And the city's best gourmet delicatessen is still Coalla, with two branches in Gijn and now in Madrid.
As an alternative to the 5-star Eurostars Reconquista, if filled, as is the case always during the prize ceremonies, just up the street we like the 5-star Barcel Cervantes.
https://www.barcelo.com/es-es/barcelo-oviedo-cervantes/
And for the Bulevar de la Sidra, the very lively "cider house row", of the many back-to-back cider houses there, we very much like the farm-to-table gastro bar La Finca Agrobar, because the food is all local, the wait staff speaks to us in bable or "asturianu" and the small dining room is very atmospheric and doesn't have large rooms suited to groups, as you may find in others.
https://sidrerialafinca.es
The cider house ritual on this street is a great deal of fun, especially at night.
Runner up on El Bulevar de la Sidra: the cider house Ferroviario across the street.
https://www.elferroviario.es
As for sweets, the citizens of Oviedo have a very sweet tooth and their pastry shops, including the one you mentioned, Camilo de Blas, are legendary.
We just finished our last box of Moscovitas, which are feather light almond cookies bathed in rich chocolate, that one can purchase from the Rialto shop/tea room in Oviedo from 1926, They also have an outpost here in Madrid at Nuez de Balboa 86 and can be purchased at El Corte Ingls Club del Gourmet or the Gourmet Experience.
https://www.moscovitas.com
And just another vote for the lovely Casonas Asturianas, a government inspected series of inns in all sections of the Principado, with moderate prices, where eskcrunchy stayed at the 3 Cabos up in the hills with stunning views! We're headed for two weeks in August, a new one (for us) on the western side of the coast and one on the eastern side, near Ribadesella, a lovely seaside town. We've stayed in many of these Casonas Asturianas and have found them charming, homey, with delicious homemade sweets breads and jams for breakfast and very reasonably priced, all family owned.
https://www.casonasasturianas.com/en/
Eskcrunchy,
We're headed to Len tomorrow for Holy Week but this time wont be traveling to Bodega El Capricho in Jimnez de Jamuz for the "best steak in the world" (arguable, but what an experience!), since Jos Gordon now imports his buey specimens to Rocacho Plaza here in Madrid. It was a very interesting outing nonetheless.
Last edited by Maribel; Apr 11th, 2025 at 09:16 AM.
Apr 11th, 2025 | 10:18 AM
#30
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Meant to add, if anyone is wondering about the Maragato stew, the cocido maragato, which is like the famous cocido madrileo, a very heavy stew of broth with noodles, chickpeas and stewed vegetables and boiled meats/sausages, served in 3 courses or 3 vuelcos, first the broth and noodles, then the chickpeas and stewed vegetables and finally the Pantagruelian stewed meat/sausage course.
In the Maragatera, the land of the muleteers, the arrieros, (who were considered highly trustworthy and scrupulously honest), who transported goods by mule from there to Madrid,
unlike in Madrid and its cocido madrileo, this stew, cocido maragato, is served al revs, in the opposite way, or upside down, first serving the meats, then the vegetables and chickpeas, then the broth with noodles.
The reason why has many different explanations...the most common, some say, during the War of Independence, the soldiers at war with the French chose to eat the most caloric, the most nutritious, heavy meat and sausages first because if it came to attack them, they ate the heartiest (protein heavy) part of the meal first and easier to leave the least substantial portion, the soup, until the last. But there are many theories. no one is sure which is correct.
If anyone finds himself/herself in the Maragatera, within the area of Astorga, a fascinating area of Len, which is on the Camino Francs of the Camino de Santiago or Road to St. James, a wonderful place to stop and have this dish is in the highly photogenic village of Castrillo de los Polvazares, one of the most photographed villages in the Len province. Many restaurants here serve this dish, such as Restaurante Coscolo, which comes. Michelin guide recommended as a Bib Gourmand for good value. Or in Spanish only, Casa Maruja, where the legendary Maruja Botas has been serving up her cocido maragato (25/p) for almost six decades.
https://www.restaurantecoscolo.com
In the Maragatera, the land of the muleteers, the arrieros, (who were considered highly trustworthy and scrupulously honest), who transported goods by mule from there to Madrid,
unlike in Madrid and its cocido madrileo, this stew, cocido maragato, is served al revs, in the opposite way, or upside down, first serving the meats, then the vegetables and chickpeas, then the broth with noodles.
The reason why has many different explanations...the most common, some say, during the War of Independence, the soldiers at war with the French chose to eat the most caloric, the most nutritious, heavy meat and sausages first because if it came to attack them, they ate the heartiest (protein heavy) part of the meal first and easier to leave the least substantial portion, the soup, until the last. But there are many theories. no one is sure which is correct.
If anyone finds himself/herself in the Maragatera, within the area of Astorga, a fascinating area of Len, which is on the Camino Francs of the Camino de Santiago or Road to St. James, a wonderful place to stop and have this dish is in the highly photogenic village of Castrillo de los Polvazares, one of the most photographed villages in the Len province. Many restaurants here serve this dish, such as Restaurante Coscolo, which comes. Michelin guide recommended as a Bib Gourmand for good value. Or in Spanish only, Casa Maruja, where the legendary Maruja Botas has been serving up her cocido maragato (25/p) for almost six decades.
https://www.restaurantecoscolo.com
Last edited by Maribel; Apr 11th, 2025 at 11:03 AM.
Apr 13th, 2025 | 06:17 AM
#32
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La Maragatera was so much fun! And Castrillo de los Polvazares is such a photogenic town, right on the Camino Francs.
Were in Len now for Holy Week, having a great time exploring, dining and enjoying the daily and evening processions.
When I return home I have to write a dining guide to the Len province, plus Len capital is the city of the complimentary tapa, which we find even better in quality than those of Granada.
Today weve had delicious croquetas de gambas, cecina de Len, queso de cabra, homemade chorizo, all complimentary with our wine order, either a godello or a menca from El Bierzo.
The more time I spend in Len, the more I love this city, plus the Catedral, with its exquisite stained glass, looks gorgeous now!
We attended Palm Sunday mass
this morning.
lll try to post photos later. More processions tonight!
Were in Len now for Holy Week, having a great time exploring, dining and enjoying the daily and evening processions.
When I return home I have to write a dining guide to the Len province, plus Len capital is the city of the complimentary tapa, which we find even better in quality than those of Granada.
Today weve had delicious croquetas de gambas, cecina de Len, queso de cabra, homemade chorizo, all complimentary with our wine order, either a godello or a menca from El Bierzo.
The more time I spend in Len, the more I love this city, plus the Catedral, with its exquisite stained glass, looks gorgeous now!
We attended Palm Sunday mass
this morning.
lll try to post photos later. More processions tonight!
Apr 13th, 2025 | 09:07 AM
#33
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Sounds fantastic! I do hope you will post photos.
So the new dining guide will be to Leon? I guess I'd better put that region on the list for future trips because I am sure I will want to do so once you reveal its gastronomic treasures!
(I did go to Astorga for the "best steak in the world," but have not been in elsewhere in Leon in many, many years and even then, I only spent one day in Leon city.
(And here I was hoping for a Mallorca guide!)
I always didi think that the home of the free tapa was Granada, so the fact that it is, in fact, Leon, is news to me.
So the new dining guide will be to Leon? I guess I'd better put that region on the list for future trips because I am sure I will want to do so once you reveal its gastronomic treasures!
(I did go to Astorga for the "best steak in the world," but have not been in elsewhere in Leon in many, many years and even then, I only spent one day in Leon city.
(And here I was hoping for a Mallorca guide!)
I always didi think that the home of the free tapa was Granada, so the fact that it is, in fact, Leon, is news to me.
Apr 15th, 2025 | 08:18 AM
#34
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Since this thread has resurfaced, I will post a few photos of our trip to Asturias and Astorga, Leon here; I was not able to post photos when I wrote this report.
We spent the bulk of our two-plus-week vacation in Asturias, but after reading this article, I knew that I had to dip into Leon to eat here; there was very little online coverage of this restaurant when we visited, but I see it has now made a lot of "top steak in the world" lists.
https://www.telegraph.co.uk/foodandd...est-steak.html
Sorry, the article is now behind a firewall, but this was published after we visited; EL CAPRICHO is ranked as offering the "second best steak in the world."
I have. no idea what "the best steak in the world might be," but we were very curious to try this intriguing restaurant. Back then one barely needed a reservation; I'm not sure if that's true now. (Spoiler: My own "most memorablet steak" was not in Astorga, but in Buenos Aires, at LA CABANA DE LILAS, but that was about 20 years ago)
https://www.worldbeststeaks.com/items-1/no.2/bodega-el-capricho
What I did not know was that Astorga not only has its own culinary tradition, Maragata, which Maribel mentions above and which we had no time to sample. The Maragatas, whose numbers are in the four digits, descended from the Berbers and are believed to be the last demographic remnants of the Moors in Spain. Their cuisine is represented in restaurants in Astorga.
https://caminotravelcenter.com/blog/...on-the-camino/
https://www.viaavis.com/uncategorize...teria/?lang=en
But the crown jewel of this town is a Gaudi masterpiece that, back then, seemed to be completely off the tourist track. Everyone associates Gaudi with Barcelona, but the Episcopal Palace in Astorga is breathtaking, and was almost deserted when we visited. I see that you can now buy tickets online..this was very much not the case when we visited. Is this palace even on Instagram? is it swarming with tourists today? I don't know.
https://www.palaciodegaudi.es/tu-visita/entradas/
Astorga is a handsome small town and the closest place we found accommodation near EL CAPRICHO.
We stayed in a lovely small hotel in an 18th Century building and were warmly welcomed by the owner: price then was well under 100 euro per night.
https://casadetepa.com/en/
Drive to Astorga
Episcopal Palace in Astorga, Leon
Hint of local fare in Astorga; the Cecina of Leon was a revelation to me. Air-dry, cured beef from older cows. (At its best, I think Cecina might rival the finest jamon) We sampled Cecina at ELCAPRICHO and I still remember its joy. One of my "special restaurants" in the Vejer (Andalucia) area makes a salad with cecina de Leon that is smashingly surprising and wondrous..with fresh fruit!
Interior of Gaudi's Episcopal Palace. The Catalan bishop asked Gaudi to design the palace interior
Astorga Episcopal Palace; sorry my descriptions are brief. This trip took place in October, 2017.
Astorga masterpiece, deserted when we visited
Episcopal Palace, Astorga
Glorious window, Astorga
Favorite window of mine; one of my favorite color combinations...might make this my screen server!
We spent the bulk of our two-plus-week vacation in Asturias, but after reading this article, I knew that I had to dip into Leon to eat here; there was very little online coverage of this restaurant when we visited, but I see it has now made a lot of "top steak in the world" lists.
https://www.telegraph.co.uk/foodandd...est-steak.html
Sorry, the article is now behind a firewall, but this was published after we visited; EL CAPRICHO is ranked as offering the "second best steak in the world."
I have. no idea what "the best steak in the world might be," but we were very curious to try this intriguing restaurant. Back then one barely needed a reservation; I'm not sure if that's true now. (Spoiler: My own "most memorablet steak" was not in Astorga, but in Buenos Aires, at LA CABANA DE LILAS, but that was about 20 years ago)
https://www.worldbeststeaks.com/items-1/no.2/bodega-el-capricho
What I did not know was that Astorga not only has its own culinary tradition, Maragata, which Maribel mentions above and which we had no time to sample. The Maragatas, whose numbers are in the four digits, descended from the Berbers and are believed to be the last demographic remnants of the Moors in Spain. Their cuisine is represented in restaurants in Astorga.
https://caminotravelcenter.com/blog/...on-the-camino/
https://www.viaavis.com/uncategorize...teria/?lang=en
But the crown jewel of this town is a Gaudi masterpiece that, back then, seemed to be completely off the tourist track. Everyone associates Gaudi with Barcelona, but the Episcopal Palace in Astorga is breathtaking, and was almost deserted when we visited. I see that you can now buy tickets online..this was very much not the case when we visited. Is this palace even on Instagram? is it swarming with tourists today? I don't know.
https://www.palaciodegaudi.es/tu-visita/entradas/
Astorga is a handsome small town and the closest place we found accommodation near EL CAPRICHO.
We stayed in a lovely small hotel in an 18th Century building and were warmly welcomed by the owner: price then was well under 100 euro per night.
https://casadetepa.com/en/
Drive to Astorga
Episcopal Palace in Astorga, Leon
Hint of local fare in Astorga; the Cecina of Leon was a revelation to me. Air-dry, cured beef from older cows. (At its best, I think Cecina might rival the finest jamon) We sampled Cecina at ELCAPRICHO and I still remember its joy. One of my "special restaurants" in the Vejer (Andalucia) area makes a salad with cecina de Leon that is smashingly surprising and wondrous..with fresh fruit!
Interior of Gaudi's Episcopal Palace. The Catalan bishop asked Gaudi to design the palace interior
Astorga Episcopal Palace; sorry my descriptions are brief. This trip took place in October, 2017.
Astorga masterpiece, deserted when we visited
Episcopal Palace, Astorga
Glorious window, Astorga
Favorite window of mine; one of my favorite color combinations...might make this my screen server!
Last edited by ekscrunchy; Apr 15th, 2025 at 08:32 AM.
Apr 20th, 2025 | 12:05 PM
#35
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Here are some photos of our steak dinner at BODEGA EL CAPRICHO in the small town of Jimenez de Jamuz. It was quite an experience, but we both were disappointed by the steak. Admittedly, I am not even close to being a connoisseur of steak but for me, the flavor did not compensate for the large amount of fat. The restaurant is famed for their beef, sourced from aged Galician cows. But even though the steak was not a hit with us, I'm still so glad that we went; everything else was wonderful, the staff were as warm and informative as could be, and part of the dining area sits within a cave, so the atmosphere is unusual. (There is another, less unusual, dining area where most of the guests chose to be seated)
All in all, we had a great time; it's n easy drive from Astorga, even at night:
Explaining the various cuts on offer; as you'd expect, he was passionate about beef and offered so much information about the cows, the ageing, etc.....
Our cozy cave at EL CAPRICHO. (This is more or less how I dress in Spain, although I've upped my style game a little since then; I often wear well-cut black jeans, even at "fancy" restaurants. (EL CAPRICHO is not fancy, by any means). Just want to show this because first-time travelers often ask how to dress in Spain. I feel comfortable like this, although I'm usually a little more put together!! I take along some costume jewelry but was not wearing it that night. And I've switched mostly to tailored shirts,, cotton or linen.
Carpaccio of entrecte; half order, before the steak (this came right before the best dish of the night, the Cecina, signature air-dried beef of Leon), shown at bottom of post.
Our platter of Galician steak; there was quite a bit of fat; not sure if people prefer to eat this, but I did cut it off
Wonderful blistered red peppers, one of my favorite foods in Spain
Open kitchen and grill at EL CAPRICHO, in Leon province. No nonsense decor; it's all about the meat here!!
Aged meat on the counter of EL CAPRICHO
Cecina, half order=the outstanding air-cured beef from Leon province, revered throughout Spain. It's served at LA CASTILLERIA, the meat \"temple" that I frequent on my trips to Andalucia, near Vejer de la Frontera
Publicity about the restaurant; it's become a lot more famous in the years since our visit
Newspaper article about Jose Godon,, the owner of EL CAPRICHO
Yes, a terrible photo but this is the exterior, easy to reach from our hotel in Astorga, even for us!!
All in all, we had a great time; it's n easy drive from Astorga, even at night:
Explaining the various cuts on offer; as you'd expect, he was passionate about beef and offered so much information about the cows, the ageing, etc.....
Our cozy cave at EL CAPRICHO. (This is more or less how I dress in Spain, although I've upped my style game a little since then; I often wear well-cut black jeans, even at "fancy" restaurants. (EL CAPRICHO is not fancy, by any means). Just want to show this because first-time travelers often ask how to dress in Spain. I feel comfortable like this, although I'm usually a little more put together!! I take along some costume jewelry but was not wearing it that night. And I've switched mostly to tailored shirts,, cotton or linen.
Carpaccio of entrecte; half order, before the steak (this came right before the best dish of the night, the Cecina, signature air-dried beef of Leon), shown at bottom of post.
Our platter of Galician steak; there was quite a bit of fat; not sure if people prefer to eat this, but I did cut it off
Wonderful blistered red peppers, one of my favorite foods in Spain
Open kitchen and grill at EL CAPRICHO, in Leon province. No nonsense decor; it's all about the meat here!!
Aged meat on the counter of EL CAPRICHO
Cecina, half order=the outstanding air-cured beef from Leon province, revered throughout Spain. It's served at LA CASTILLERIA, the meat \"temple" that I frequent on my trips to Andalucia, near Vejer de la Frontera
Publicity about the restaurant; it's become a lot more famous in the years since our visit
Newspaper article about Jose Godon,, the owner of EL CAPRICHO
Yes, a terrible photo but this is the exterior, easy to reach from our hotel in Astorga, even for us!!
Last edited by ekscrunchy; Apr 20th, 2025 at 12:15 PM.
Apr 20th, 2025 | 12:25 PM
#36
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Joined: May 2005
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We returned to our Astorga hotel after dinner, and the following day, headed for the last stop of our trip (this report is out of order; I will fill in the earlier destinations later on--sorry about that--but the itinerary is posted at the top of the thread)
But first we made a quick stop in Cudillero, often listed among the prettiest villages of Northern Spain. We had stayed overnight here about ten years earlier; I think it's a better lunch and day trip destination than an overnight one.
Stark but beautiful landscapes of southern Asturias
Tiny Cudillero (pop. 5,000) mandatory stop on the summertime tourist trail. We stayed overnight about ten years ago but this time, stopped only for a quick walk around, and a hike up to the viewpoint in the hills, at left
Asturias typical architecture: houses in Cudillero. It's wonderful how the architecture varies throughout the various regions of the country.
Not surprisingly, the town is replete with restaurants serving local shellfish, including the coveted percebes
We stayed here, the cozy LA CSAONA DEL PIO, on our fist visit to Cudillero about ten years before our return to the town on this trip
Plaza central of Cudillero, Asturias; must be overflowing with tourists in the hot months
But first we made a quick stop in Cudillero, often listed among the prettiest villages of Northern Spain. We had stayed overnight here about ten years earlier; I think it's a better lunch and day trip destination than an overnight one.
Stark but beautiful landscapes of southern Asturias
Tiny Cudillero (pop. 5,000) mandatory stop on the summertime tourist trail. We stayed overnight about ten years ago but this time, stopped only for a quick walk around, and a hike up to the viewpoint in the hills, at left
Asturias typical architecture: houses in Cudillero. It's wonderful how the architecture varies throughout the various regions of the country.
Not surprisingly, the town is replete with restaurants serving local shellfish, including the coveted percebes
We stayed here, the cozy LA CSAONA DEL PIO, on our fist visit to Cudillero about ten years before our return to the town on this trip
Plaza central of Cudillero, Asturias; must be overflowing with tourists in the hot months
Apr 22nd, 2025 | 04:53 AM
#38
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Joined: May 2005
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Thanks so much!!
I'm not sure there's much interest since not many people here even think about a trip to Asturias, but they should!!!
It really was one of the best trips we've ever taken to Spain, and I'd love to go back, to repeat some places and to discover places we did not visit.
I'm going to add some more photos soon..just in case. I can't remember all the details but the photos might refresh my memory..
I'm not sure there's much interest since not many people here even think about a trip to Asturias, but they should!!!
It really was one of the best trips we've ever taken to Spain, and I'd love to go back, to repeat some places and to discover places we did not visit.
I'm going to add some more photos soon..just in case. I can't remember all the details but the photos might refresh my memory..
Apr 26th, 2025 | 09:21 AM
#39
Joined: Jan 2003
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eksrunchy,
We just returned home for 9 days of Holy Week beginning in Len (yes, in some cities the processions begin on the Friday or Saturday BEFORE Palm Sunday (Viernes de Dolores, Sbado de Pasin), and if you ever return to Len, I highly, highly recommend the spectacular Marcela Brasas y Vinos in the city, which, yes, does serve the buey from Jos Gordon's El Capricho but without having to make a pilgrimage there.
We had the best chuleta of memory there and the wine list is fabulous.
And we purchased our cecina from the lovely wine, cheese and charcuterie shop, La Vianda, just a short walk from the Parador. We've been enjoying our cecina, hand cut, here at home this week.
The best chuleta ever!
And for those who didnt see it here because I couldnt post it because of its length, here is my newly revised for 2025 Dining Guide to Asturias, posted on Hungry Onion here.
https://www.hungryonion.org/t/dining-in-asturias/43184
We just returned home for 9 days of Holy Week beginning in Len (yes, in some cities the processions begin on the Friday or Saturday BEFORE Palm Sunday (Viernes de Dolores, Sbado de Pasin), and if you ever return to Len, I highly, highly recommend the spectacular Marcela Brasas y Vinos in the city, which, yes, does serve the buey from Jos Gordon's El Capricho but without having to make a pilgrimage there.
We had the best chuleta of memory there and the wine list is fabulous.
And we purchased our cecina from the lovely wine, cheese and charcuterie shop, La Vianda, just a short walk from the Parador. We've been enjoying our cecina, hand cut, here at home this week.
The best chuleta ever!
And for those who didnt see it here because I couldnt post it because of its length, here is my newly revised for 2025 Dining Guide to Asturias, posted on Hungry Onion here.
https://www.hungryonion.org/t/dining-in-asturias/43184
Last edited by Maribel; Apr 26th, 2025 at 09:25 AM.
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