David

Well, we did it. We went to Paris, had a splendiferous time and lived to tell the tale. As promised in the brochures (or at least in my last posting before we left) following is a rundown of our trip. I will attempt to make it as informative as possible so that those of you traveling abroad in the near future will know just what to expect. Unfortunately, I have had to break this into several parts due to the length restrictions on this site. Please keep in mind that we returned on October 5 and, therefore, before the bombings on Afghanistan began: things have probably changed as a result. <BR> <BR>I have broken the trip down into several categories (beginning with "news you can use") to try to make it a little easier to peruse: <BR> <BR>AIRPORTS: As you have no doubt already read, expect delays. Even though they only suggested we arrive at the airport two hours prior to departure (this was on September 23rd) we took no chances and arrived almost four hours early. We flew on US Airways and, fortunately for us, were among the first to arrive for the flight. While four hours early was probably unnecessary for the flight we were on, it may have been for the people traveling on AA or United. I have NEVER seen lines like those waiting at the ticketing counter for these two airlines. If you are flying on either of these, I would strongly urge you to arrive a minimum of three hours early--better safe than sorry. Here are a few more tips: <BR> <BR>· Please use your head when packing your carry-on. Many delays are being caused by people who are still packing items such as scissors, small knives and aerosol cans. These items are only allowed in checked-in luggage, so double checking your carry-ons before leaving for the airport could save everyone a lot of time. <BR>· Empty your pockets of all metal objects (including spare change) before going through the metal detector. The sensitivity of metal detectors has been greatly increased. Because of this, items that previously went through undetected are now setting off the alarm (believe it or not the only metal I had on me was a dime and it still set off the machine!). By emptying your pockets first you will save time for both yourself and the rest of the line. <BR>· Airport lockers are temporarily unavailable. Of the four airports we visited, lockers were available in none. I don't know how long this will continue but don't count on being able to use a locker while waiting for your flight. For those of you who carry a lot of stuff, you may wish to pack more of it in your checked luggage. <BR> <BR>US AIRWAYS: They were great! Courteous, kind and very helpful. Highly recommend them for international travel (they were good on the domestic legs as well). <BR> <BR>

David

PART 2: <BR>PARIS: Before I discuss all the wonders of Paris, let me first dispel a few rumors and reconfirm some useful tips about the "City of Lights" (those of you who have been many times may wish to skip the tips section): <BR> <BR>RUMORS: <BR>1. Troops are roaming the streets of Paris: false. While security is heightened, this has only manifested itself in three ways (that we noticed) 1) the regular police are a bit more visible, 2) all public outdoor toilets are locked up (we believe this was done so that no one can leave a bomb in them. Unless this changes in the near future, you no longer need worry about saving those two-franc pieces) and, 3) all public trash receptacles are sealed (same reason as above). <BR>2. Parisians are rude: false. We encountered no rude people while in Paris. I believe you get what you give (and what you expect). We were cordial to people, learned to greet them in French (as well as learning other phrases) and were treated with courtesy in kind. <BR>3. Parisians wear a lot of black: true. Mon Dieu! B, B, and more B seems to be the continuing and timeless fashion trend in Paris: if you're really trying to remain anonymous, wearing black is a good way to start. <BR>4. Parisians don't wear jeans or tennis shoes: true/false. While it's true that some Parisians do wear these items, most do not (at least not in the city). Most of the people we saw who were wearing jeans and tennis shoes belonged to two categories: French teenagers and American tourists. Again, if you want to blend in, avoid these articles--as well as baseball caps and shorts. <BR>5. Every day is trash day in Paris: true. At least this was true for the neighborhood we were staying in. Every single morning at 5am the trash trucks stopped in front of our hotel. If you're staying on a busy street and peace and quiet are important to you (or if you have trouble sleeping) you may wish to reserve a room away from the street. <BR>6. Cats suck the breath out of babies while they're asleep-oh, wait, that's for a different forum!J <BR>TIPS: <BR>1. Bring a good map with you. I cannot emphasize this enough. We brought three maps with us and, quite frankly, they all stunk. Michelin, Fodor's and Euphrates may be good general maps, however, they left out a third (or more) of the streets we needed. They simply are not detailed enough and we struggled to find restaurant addresses, etc. If anyone out there can recommend a really good map of Paris, now's your chance… <BR>2. When getting info on a hotel over the internet, triple-check the info. Two different web sites told us we were staying in a three-star hotel: they were wrong. Our hotel turned out to be two-star (which was fine) but I felt a little deceived when we first arrived. <BR>3. Be prepared for all kinds of weather this time of year. Over the ten days we were there, we encountered rain, fog, wind, and sunshine. Likewise the temperatures ran from the low 40s to the upper 70s. <BR>

David

PART 2 (cont.) <BR> <BR>4. The Metro passes and museum passes will save you money. Even though we figure we walked an average of 5 to 7 miles a day, we still bought the Carte Orange and used it to tremendous advantage (especially at night when we were too tired and stuffed to walk anymore!). As for the museum pass, not only will it save you money, but also a tremendous amount of time waiting in lines. <BR>5. Take at least one cruise on the Seine. We took a one hour guided tour along the Seine at night (about 50ff per person) and it was spectacular! It's a great way to see the "City of Lights" all lit up. They also offer longer tours as well-bring a jacket! <BR>6. Never, ever, ever pass up an opportunity to use a free restroom. Especially now with all the public restrooms locked up, you don't want to take a chance on being stranded when the need arises. <BR>7. Learn some of the language before you go. It's not that difficult to learn basic words and phrases (I bought the Pimsleur course, which I highly recommend) and it will greatly enrich and enhance your experience-not to mention make a difference in how you are perceived and received. <BR>8. Never gamble with a man with a city for a first name and never date a woman with a tattoo of a dagger on the inside of her thigh. But I digress… <BR>

David

PART 3: <BR>Now on to…RESTAURANTS! <BR>Although we ate at a myriad of wonderful restaurants in Paris, there are definitely a few that stick out in our minds. Following, is a partial listing with comments on the food, atmosphere, service, etc.: <BR> <BR>1. MICHEL ROSTANG: Absolutely, positively the best restaurant experience of our lives. I have worked in and run restaurants and hotels for nearly 21 years and have never had an experience to equal this one. The dining room is gorgeous, the service beyond fault and the food indescribable. We ordered three courses (al a' carte) but ended up with around ten-they just kept bringing out delicacies as the chef whipped them up. If you want to be pampered beyond belief, this is the place to go. <BR>2. LE JULES VERNE: When we initially made reservations for lunch (dinner was booked through the 4th of never) they told us there was no chance of a window table: they lied. When we arrived, they seated us at what was arguably the best window table in the place. The second we sat down, Clare de Lune (sp?) began playing (one of my all-time favorites) and I lost it. The view, the music, my beautiful date-I was simply overwhelmed. As for the food, it was much better than I expected. It wasn't on par with Michel Rostang but it was very, very good (crab souffle' baked in a loaf of bread, marinated squid stuffed with chantairelles and fois gras). I realize this place gets uneven reviews, however, I would recommend it as an unforgettable experience not to be missed. <BR>3. BRASSERIE BOFINGER: We simply loved brasseries and this was our favorite! Great atmosphere, great service and wonderful brasserie fare. If you're in the mood for shellfish and choucroutte, this is the place for you. <BR>4. LE BON ACUILLE: I'm quite sure I haven't spelled this one right but it's a lovely little restaurant near the tour Eiffel. Delightful prix-fix menu featuring everything from seafood stews (one of the best soups I've ever eaten) to duck with figs. Great place and reasonably priced wine list to boot. <BR>5. BRASSERIE BALZAR: Small neighborhood brasserie in the 5the featuring probably the best sole meuniere I've ever tasted. Good solid service and an intimate locals atmosphere. Place was packed every time we walked by. <BR>6. POLIDOR: Locals place located in the 6the. Very casual, very inexpensive and quite good. They serve classics such as blanquette de veau and beouf bourgignon(sp?). Be prepared to share a table as everyone is seated at picnic-style tables. <BR>7. LA COUPOLE: Lively atmosphere in a huge, cavernous dining room. Noisy but energizing. My guess is that they seat in excess of four hundred people at a time-so you know you're not going to get gourmet food. This prediction came true when my date was served the toughest steak I have ever attempted to gnaw through. This was the only time in Paris that we EVER sent back anything. After five of them argued about it in the middle of the dining room for about five minutes, they finally did the right thing and replaced it. I must also say that their "famous" oysters (based on a litter that goes back five generations) were not in the least extraordinary-especially at $25 for six. That said though, the food and service were still pretty good. This was our least favorite, however. <BR>

David

PART 4: <BR> <BR>As for Paris itself, what can I say…we simply had the time of our life and plan to return again and again and again… <BR> <BR>Initially I had worried that ten days in Paris might be too many. Perhaps it would be better if we spent five in Paris and five in Provence. I now realize, however, that ten days isn't enough for Paris-nor is fifteen, or even twenty. We had a taste and that's it. But, oh, what a taste it was! <BR> <BR>Well kids, this is all the time I have for now. I will try to continue this in the next few days, however, please feel free to e-mail me if you have any questions or comments--or you can simply post them here and I will come back and try to answer/comment on them. <BR> <BR>Au revoir! <BR> <BR>David <BR>

Claire

Can you tell me a little more about the night cruise on the Seine? Was it a dinner cruise? What was the tour company? I'd really like to go on a river tour that doesn't involve dinner. I've got a million restaurants on my list, and wouldn't want to waste a meal.

Tina

I can hear the excitement in your re-telling of your Paris trip. Great report. <BR> <BR>And exactly what was name of the hotel that you stayed at (ostensibly a 3-star, but really a 2). Location? What did you like or not like about it?

elaine

David <BR>Lovely report, your words really reflected your excitement in experiencing the city I love so well. <BR>Balzar is one of my favorites as well, glad to hear it's still good. <BR>Polidor has been on my list for a long time but I've read mixed review--I may finally try it next time. <BR>Did you stay on the left bank?

Chrissy

Loved your report! Great sense of humor. OK, now some questions. How much did you pay for dinner at Michel Rostang (assuming for two people)? Are the museum passes still a good idea if you'll only be there for 3-4 days? Were there many tourists/long lines? How much French is good to learn beforehand - what are the key phrases you would recommend? Merci!

David

Thanks for all your responses! I'll try to address them one at a time. <BR> <BR>Claire, <BR> <BR>I believe the name of the company we took the cruise with was called Bateaux. It's located near Notre Dame (opposite side of the Seine and it was not a dinner cruise. The cruise lasted an hour and provided a great opportunity to view the city lights. From what I hear you're wise not to take a dinner cruise--unless you do it sans the dinner. <BR> <BR>Tina, <BR>The hotel we stayed in is called the Hotel Residence Monge. It's located in the Latin Quarter on Rue Monge directly in front of the Arenes Lutece (Gallo-roman arena). Having stayed in no other left-bank hotels I really have nothing to compare it with, however, from what I have read, it sounds pretty typical i.e. small rooms, etc. The owner--Julie--was very helpful and nice and the location wasn't bad but originally we had wanted to stay in the 6th or 7th e and next time I will probably do that. By the way, the shower was so small that if you dropped the soap you literally had to get out to retrieve it! we did have a nice little balcony though and that made up for a lot. <BR> <BR>Elaine, <BR>It is because of you that I made an effort to find Le Balzar! Thank you so much for the tip on this wonderful little restaurant (I read about it in one of your postings). It is truly a find! As for Polidor, bring a really, good map--we had difficulty finding it. I can't say it was great but it was good and also a fun experience(dining at the same table with locals). As you probably already read above, we stayed on the left bank in the 5th. <BR> <BR>Thanks again to all of you and, Chrissy, I'll answer you on the next string (I'm afraid I may be running out of room). Let me know if there are any more questions I can answer. <BR> <BR>David

David

Chrissy, <BR>Whew! Good questions. Let me answer them one at a time. <BR> <BR>First, dinner at Michel Rostang ran us about $350--not including wine. And, yes, it was worth EVERY penny. Second, in my opinion museum passes are still a good idea if you're only going to be there for 3-4 days. They offer a 3-day pass which should work well for you IF you're planning to do things that require a pass every day. I would suggest getting a copy of Rick Steve's Paris because he will list everything covered by the pass. That way you can decide if there are enough things covered that also happen to fall on your "must see" list. As for lines, this is another reason to get the museum pass. With it, you get to enter most attractions through an alternate entrance with few or no lines. Sometimes it's not clear where you need to go if you have the pass but you can almost always find an employee or guard who speaks some English and ask him/her. Finally, the more phrases you can learn in French the better off you'll be (obviously) however, if I had to choose a few, they would be the following (I would attempt to spell them all in French but you'd be much better off getting a phrase book: <BR>1. Hello (bon jour) <BR>2. Hello--after 5pm (bon soir) <BR>3. Please (sil vous plais(sp?) <BR>4. Excuse me (pardon) <BR>5. I would like (je voudrais) <BR>6. Where is...pronounced oooh ay but I don't know how to spell it <BR> <BR>Your best bet would be to get a program like Pimsleur's on tape which teaches entirely by sound. <BR> <BR>Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any other questions. <BR> <BR>David

Dee

David, thank you for your report. You really reinforced my feelings on my first trip to Paris this spring. Even though the weather for us was "yucky" we thoroughly enjoyed our time there. You reminded me of something I had already forgotten - trash day! No wonder the city always looks clean - they clean it every morning! We even took a photo of the cleaning people in their green garb. Also, MAPS - you were absolutely correct-need a detailed map to really make things easier for the traveler. I can't wait to go back. but unfortunately, not possible until 2003.

Gretchen

Regarding maps, there is a pocket size book called Paris par Arrondisement that is a detailed map of Paris. Also if you know the places you are going to eat at/visit you can enter the address in maporama.com and print out a detailed map to take with you.

Greg Gallagher

Hey David I was in Paris during the attack and the French could not have been more polite or helpful. Only nasty people I met were uneducated Americans ( wanted American type food in Paris, how silly). Your comments were nice to hear. I can't wait to go back and experience this city for the fourth time (always a beautiful adventure). And yes we got lost a number of times as well even with maps (but heck isn't that part of the fun?). One more thing. It's, "Ou est". Glad you had a great time.

Judy

A pocket sized, street indexed map called "Paris Pratique" was invaluable during our recent visit to Paris - it's comprehensive and easy to use. This was recommended in Rick Steves' book on Paris.

Heidi

David: <BR>In part 2 of your message, you say "The Metro passes and museum passes will save you money. Even though we figure we walked an average of 5 to 7 miles a day, we still bought the Carte Orange and used it to tremendous advantage (especially at night when we were too tired and stuffed to walk anymore!)." <BR> <BR>I've already decided to purchase the museum pass (which I will buy when we get to Paris), but I've heard mixed reviews about buying the Metro pass before the trip. Is this recommended? Or is it a rip off? Should we just buy it there too? <BR>

L

I found a good Paris map. It has the street that the Palidor is on, Rue Monsieur Le Prince. I got it from the official tourism website, francetourism.com. Click on brosures, get a limited amount, and pay after the limited amount.

David

Thanks to all who posted info on maps--this should come in very helpful for anyone planning travel in the near future! <BR> <BR>Judy, <BR>Oops! I must have somehow overlooked that bit about The "Paris Pratique" map in Rick Steve's book--I feel kinda silly since I recommended that same book in this string! <BR> <BR>Heidi, <BR>As to whether or not you should buy the "Carte Orange" for Paris I cannot really say. We happened to arrive on a Monday (the Carte Orange is good Mon- Sun) and it turned out to be a good value for us. Distances on maps were often deceiving and, even though we walked a lot, we also used the Metro each and every day. Many people on this forum prefer to buy "carnets" (a group of ten Metro tickets) and use those instead. Still others prefer the "Paris Visite" pass which can be purchased for different numbers of days. Whatever you end up getting, DEFINITELY wait until you get to Paris before purchasing: you will pay more for any pass in this country. My suggestion would be to wait and see exactly where your hotel is and how closely it's situated to the sites and attractions you wish to visit. Then you will be in a better position to decide if you need a pass--or if carnets will be sufficient. Either of these can be purchased quite easily at any Metro stop. Hope this helps. <BR> <BR>Greg, <BR>Yes! It was fun getting lost--we found some great cafes and clubs this way. <BR> <BR>David

Gail

David, <BR> <BR>Thanks so much for all the useful information. Just wanted to send this ttt so other travelers could share

Amy

David: <BR> <BR>Thank you kindly for the wealth of information. Are you still planning to complete this with some information on sights that you liked? I would be grateful if you made up a list similar to your restaurant one. Thanks.