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Old Mar 31st, 2008 | 09:01 AM
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Bratislava by night -

Okay I am posting this in a seperate message, for in our trip to Austria we squeezed in a side trip to Bratislava, Slovakia. It was only 57 min by train and we just couldn't resist...
We boarded the train without a problem and there was hardly anyone on it - so we could spread out. It was about 4p in the afternoon and the countryside was very pretty to travel through - that is until we noticed after crossing the border that little shanty villages began apprearing on both sides of the tracks - made of every conceivable scrap builing piece imaginable!
After some of these passed by then the grafitti on walls began and run down outskirts of city buildings and tennaments...
Now we are getting quieter...what did we do here? Finally in a very old looking dingy station we get off - and are almost in a panic as we go to the street and hundreds of downtrodden poor are around us -some laying, propped on leaning posts, others milling about quickly, NO women almost ALL men and all with serious looks on their faces and NO ONE speaks a word of English. We ask a couple of people and get blank stares back...
OKAY WE OFFICIALLY FEEL LIKE FOREIGNERS NOW FOLKS.
I make a dash for the cab line - I do not know cab ettiquette which I now know holds true in Europe - you don't get in the first one you come to but the first one in line - or you get yelled at! So off we go to the first cab.
He speeds off without even knowing where we want to go - I say OLD TOWN and then remember the restaurant my friends husband who traveled there recommends and mention that - Restaurant Paparrazi - He says okay. I motion to my shaking hands and mention I was pretty nervous back there at the train - and he laughs and says - in very broken English - "It is ghetto". We are all laughing now the tension is cut.
He speeds thru the streets and eventually it is getting better, he motions with his hands for rights and lefts on how to walk to the restaurant as the car isn't allowed on the older streets.
I take a paper and write 9:30 pm to be back here - and I point to the spot we are in - and he takes it and writes and underlines - 9:20 pm so we would make our return train.
I tell him but don't know if he understands - ANGEL!!! You are our angel!
We step out after a big breath and start to look for a bank o mat to get crowns from. Found the restaurant and sit down still shaking. The waitress speaks really good English! We are so thankful and the food is good. After the dinner she comes over to the table with three tiny crystal flute glasses and says - "White port - we make here, it is from us to you - we feel bad about your nerves - we are nice people and she bows her head a bit"
We were so taken with this and thanked her and the management for their wonderful hospitality and are encouraged to go on and see the Old Town. Which we did - no one on the streets but us...oh well! And then after seeing St Martins, the Castle, St Michaels Gate, the Philharmonic and some other sites we make our way back to the pickup spot and ducked into a small bar for a "Zlaty Bazant" their beer. The waiter here brings us a bowl of hot steaming red raspberries sauce with mint and vanilla ice cream - I say with beer??? He says "Yes and Nostravi to you!"

It was delicious - and lo and behold at 9:10 our angel cabbie is looking around for us like a mother hen for her chicks and we get in the cab and at the station give him a tip which he feels is too much and we try to tell him - no it is not enough!!! He takes it reluctantly but gratefully and sees us to the train which we are THE only ones on!!! It was desserted - no one even in the station at that time of night!
We were looking forward to hearing German again in Vienna but not sorry we had gone to Bratislava - the Old Town was so nice. All the little shops close at 8pm so getting there before dinner would have been better - but we did not know this - we did hit a little craft store that 2 college students ran and they were so sweet - so we got some locally made things to take home.
We would say that had we had more time - taking the boat definately would have been the way to go - at 9am and then get the return trip at 9 pm - it does let off right at the Old Town. We just did not have the whole day. We realized we had been dropped at the station during quitting time - that is why it was so full of people - so if taking the train is what one had to do - going at any hour than 4-5pm would be advisable!
shuttlebuggy is offline  
Old Mar 31st, 2008 | 09:23 AM
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Thanks Shuttlebuggy for an interesting report. We will be in Vienna in September and hope to do a day trip to Bratislava. We'll probably leave early in the morning and return by 3 p.m. or so. From your information it appears true that when Czechoslovakia was severed into two countries, the Czech Republic got the better of the deal economically. Nonetheless, it sounds like Bratislava is worthy of a day trip and I think we'll make it. Hope we find an angel like you did at the train station.
JulieVikmanis is offline  
Old Mar 31st, 2008 | 09:36 AM
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Very interesting, shuttlebuggy. And once again we find that first impressions are not always the ones that we want to remember. I'm glad that you met such wonderful people and your points are well made about trains and timing.
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Old Mar 31st, 2008 | 10:20 AM
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City University of Washington State has a major facility in Bratislava. In my time there we never heard of traveller problems. Enjoy.
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Old Apr 8th, 2008 | 06:46 AM
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G Steed - I hear what you say about no problems - but you know the old saying "Everything looks different at night" - well our case by sunset everything started looking strange - or should I say feeling strange.
Now that I know the layout and all the ways around potential problems - I would not hesitate in the least to got back.
When we virtual earthed the area we had been on the computer - come to find out we walked right by the French and American Embassies - but it seems they were not as well lit as the touristy type sites like the Philharmonica and Bratislava's old Parlimentary buildings...

LCBoniti - thanks, I hope it was a little helpful to folks - I think one of the most helpful things I take away from all of Europe in traveling to city centers is that usually those pedestrian only areas at the historic centers and spots are safe and secure for the most part but it is the "getting there from here" part that can get dicey - that is where well seasoned travelers can be our "guides" and some wise soul here on this site suggested the boat - and there was a lot of "sagely wisdom" packed into that suggestion! LOL
shuttlebuggy is offline  
Old Apr 8th, 2008 | 07:01 AM
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Sorry to forget you Julie!!!
What I wanted to say - is YES do go!
But if possible take the boat - it is very reasonable and the ride I hear is good - of course when the river winds past those sections I mention it might not be the most scenic by any stretch but at least you won't stop there.
It lets you off right where you need to be to see the old city center and castle etc...
If taking the train is your only option - no one seems to know which of the 2 train stations is better - which leads me to believe - no difference.
We did the Sudbanhof out of Vienna to the hl.Petrizanka (I know my spelling of that is off - but begins with a P anyways). YOU WILL FIND AN ANGEL - just on exiting the train station front you will see a line of cabs - jump on it! And just say Old Town - I would highly recommend the Paparazzi Restaurant - and we did not have time but a novelty is the UFO Bar that is on the bridge - high above it - and overlooks the water - they are open for lunch as well - I don't know how good it is but you could get some awesome day time pictures of all of the old town from there! Good luck!
shuttlebuggy is offline  
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