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Bookchick's Roman Birthday With Other Chicks Attending

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Bookchick's Roman Birthday With Other Chicks Attending

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Old Oct 9th, 2008, 11:14 AM
  #21  
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Monday night we feted N for her birthday at Giarrosto Fiorentino, a lovely restaurant on via Siciliana off via Veneto. There were other Americans celebrating birthdays there, too. We ordered as starters a great mixed antipasto, and several dishes were delivered to the table for us to sample and share. On one plate there were sausages made from wild boar. N and I decided to be adventurous and sample it. The casing proved to be kind of tough though, and these sausages were served at room temp. Whoosh! When N tried to cut into it, it flew right off the table. We drank Prosecco and laughed and the staff dimmed the lights to deliver the candle-laden cake for N’s birthday.

Back at the San Carlo, we went out onto a roof-top terrace and drank limoncello, a favorite beverage of N, and something I’d stocked up on prior to her arrival. Although we did feel a drop or two of rain, N suddently said “look!” and we turned to see the dome of San Carlo al Corso lit up like a miniature of St. Peter’s. It was a delightful night.

The next morning we set off for Florence by Eurostar. J had an iPod and as the train made its way through the beautiful Italian countryside, she let each of us listen to a recording of Enrico Caruso singing Italian opera. It was like a moment of a postcard or movie in which we were the subjects or co-stars, and it was complete with a soundtrack!
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Old Oct 9th, 2008, 11:29 AM
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This is just what I needed to read too! Life affirming and excellent!
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Old Oct 9th, 2008, 11:44 AM
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you make me want to hop on a plane!!
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Old Oct 9th, 2008, 12:05 PM
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On arriving in Florence we headed to the Pierre Hotel, where I’d booked two rooms for the 4 of us. The desk staff gave us adjoining rooms, and a porter came to unlock the door that connected them. C and I were in one room, N and J shared the other. Each room had two beds and one bathroom. We settled in, and had a brief period of time before we were to head off to the Uffizi; I’d procured a voucher for tickets for the afternoon of our arrival. It was raining and the Uffizi was PACKED. Sardines in cans have had more room, I assure you. Nevertheless we saw things we expected as well as things we weren’t familiar with that caught our eye. J and I were really intrigued by some paintings in which all the subjects, who were well-known saints and the Savior in the Catholic religion, had huge sad, dark eyes. We finished walking about and went to the gift shop, also PACKED. N came across a number of books; I settled for the purchase of a few special postcards, one of which was a color depiction of Caravaggio’s Medusa. (My brother finds the postcard repugnant, and “sick”.)

After leaving the Museum for the fresh although fairly moist air, we found ourselves at an outdoor café. The umbrella’d tables kept the rain off and each chair had been covered with a faux leopard-skin throw to keep the occupant dry. We ordered gelato all around, and it was a thrill to see C and J eating their first Italian gelato.

After that we repaired back to the hotel and decided to lie down on each of our beds for a brief rest. A bit of jet lag had finally caught up with the normally energetic N, and J as well I fear, and C, who’d traveled so far. And of course as the resident quasi-invalid, I always take some opportunities to rest when offered. So there we were, I think C was asleep, I could barely hear N and J talking softly in their rooms, and then they stopped, so I surmised they, too, might be asleep. I couldn’t help but think how civil this all was, how we were like (well in some ways!) cultured ladies from the late 19th century, who were reposing prior to a social evening…..when suddenly we were all startled by the sound of what certainly resembled a ton of glass being emptied into a truck. CRASH! Well, so much for a civil way of life, in which ladies recline restfully in the afternoon..
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Old Oct 9th, 2008, 12:10 PM
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Your report makes me want to know you and in a way I feel I do. I love reading it and please continue.

I am so happy for you and wish I "knew" a city as well as you do Rome--am trying with Paris but it will be a lifelong quest.

p.s. Don't you just love Marina Rinaldi--I did wonderfully at a sale in their Prague store a few years ago and watch for sale items on Saks' web site.
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Old Oct 9th, 2008, 12:11 PM
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Hello bookchick! Your trip report is a joy. I was so thrilled to see your thread. And I am still in awe of you my dear. Your friends are obviously wonderful travelling companions, and you deserve nothing but the very best. I am so looking forward to your next installment.
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Old Oct 9th, 2008, 12:18 PM
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That evening we decided to dine at Il Cavallino, a restaurant in Florence, where, in my student days we scraped together a bit of money to celebrate special occasions. Whenever I am in Florence I try to get there; I am always transported back in time a bit to when I was living in Sesto Fiorentino, commuting in to Florence by bus almost every day.

The waiter we had was a comical guy, jolly and a tad on the rotund side. Now I do speak Italian, and N had studied some Italian because she loves the country so much. She enjoys speaking it, and will usually preface an exchange in a shop or restaurant with a native by saying she doesn’t speak Italian well, but she’d like to transact business in Italian. Everyone is always charmed by this and tells her to go ahead. Well, N had looked over the menu and not seeing it listed on the menu, wanted to order fava beans. (You sickos reading this who are thinking of Hannibal Lecter can leave now.) So when the waiter came over to the table, he described a “seafood fantasy” dinner that N and J decided to share. I stayed out of this altogether because it sounded like enough food to feed a family of 6 easily. N and J inquired about ordering some side dishes of vegetables and then N asked the daring question “Avete fave?” to find out if they had fava beans available. Now the way she phrased it…um…there is a slang term for part of the male anatomy, and she was actually asking the waiter if he..well, you can well guess. The waiter did all he could not to simply explode in laughter, and said to N, “I’m calling Tony over, you ask him”. “Tony” was an older gentleman, also a waiter, and he came to our table as our waiter requested, and N posed the question to him. By now both Tony, our waiter and I were practically in tears and rolling on the floor we were laughing so hard! J was utterly bewildered and N kept asking “What did I say??”!
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Old Oct 9th, 2008, 12:28 PM
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"Ladies who recline restfully in the afternoon.... before an evening social engagement..."

And why not ? Good for you !
(reminds me a bit of 'A Room With A View', one of my favourite movies.)

Very much enjoying your writing, and the wonderful sense you impart of enjoying friendships and simple pleasures.
And thank you for the paragraphs !

M
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Old Oct 9th, 2008, 12:51 PM
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The next day we had our reserved time at the Accademia. Getting C out of the Mercato Nuovo, however, took almost a surgical effort. N went in to get her, and then she, too, disappeared. J and I stood outside a bookstore peering into the Mercato to see if we could catch a glimpse of C or N. No luck. Finally, with our reservation time coming close, we went in and extracted the two shoppers, one of whom was bearing a couple of pashminas for her trouble.

Our guide was a lovely, expressive young woman, very funny and bright, but wearing more make-up than I’ve possible had cumulatively on my face in my lifetime. She gave us a wonderful overview of Renaissance art history, made some interesting observations on the Medici family, and answered our questions. (The style of art that J and I thought looked almost out of place the day before was called mannerism.) All in all, it was a most enjoyable morning, and since we’d survived the gift shop the day before, we didn’t have to do it again.

We thought of stopping for a bite of lunch, and near Il Porcellino I recognized Enzo. Enzo is minor personality in Florence, and manages a restaurant. I walked up to him, shook his hand, and told him it was good to see him again. I think he was taken aback and couldn’t place me, but was too shy to say so, so he had a waiter seat us. We ordered and enjoyed lunch and Enzo sent us complimentary Limoncello at the end of the meal. We had a waiter who was young, energetic, and used the phrase “Oh my gosh!” quite a bit, so we must have been a somewhat provocative lunch party for him.

With our time growing short in Florence, we decided to hail a cab and go to Piazza Michaelangelo, so C and J could really see the town. In a happy coincidence, the sun came out just as we arrived up there. J so enjoyed seeing the wall of the city, and said when she thought of Italy, she imagined the more “Tuscany” part of it, just outside the city walls. We drank in the beauty and the splendor that has bewitched visitors century after century. We took a cab back down, as time was of the essence. We had already formally checked out of the hotel, but they kept our bags in their baggage room. C wanted to have another go at the Mercato, and N was game to go with her. J and I unexpectedly found a marvelous gelateria right around the corner from the hotel and decided to indulge; we meandered back to the hotel lobby to finish consuming our treats.

C and N finally joined us and we headed by cab to the train station for the train back to Rome. Our pal CW was to arrive that evening from Germany, so we were looking forward to dinner with her. On the train on the way back, we occupied seats that were 2 by two---two of us facing the other two, with a “table” of sorts between us. I gesture a great deal when I talk, and I was sitting in an “aisle seat”. While in animated conversation, I suddenly noticed a shocked look on N’s face and then she burst out laughing. I asked what was so funny and she told me the conductor was coming down the aisle and I…almost hit him with my hand in what was a very sensitive part of his body! Naturally all 4 of us began to laugh uncontrollably.
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Old Oct 9th, 2008, 04:42 PM
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So once back in Rome and back at the hotel, J noticed the TV in her room acting oddly. Everything seemed "reversed"; CNN weather, for example, showed the UK as being east of Italy! We thought perhaps J had indulged in too much wine, gelato or limoncello, until she was later able to furnish us with photographic evidence this actually happened! Her son, who is quite techno-savvy explained to her upon her return to the States that there's a little switch on many sets that does a "reversal" of things. Even the ticker at the bottom of her TV screen was running backwards. Anyway, after unpacking and getting ourselves together, we decided we were starving. CW was later getting in than we thought she should be, and we tried phoning her on her cell phone. At last she showed up and we went a block over to via della Croce for pizza. A very handsome waiter was assigned to our table and C simply gazed at him; N engaged him in small talk and he asked her where she was from. She told him he probably never heard of her town in Vermont, but he said "sure, it's not far from Boston", much to her astonishment. CW had made little buttons for everyone to commemorate our GTG, and as she's quite the photographer, she photographed each pizza. We headed back to the San Carlo for more roof-terrace Limoncello imbibing.

Thursday morning we met in the breakfast room and had a leisurely time. We had tickets reserved for the Galleria Borghese for 11 am. We had a delightful time at the Galleria, got together and split up and got together again a number of times. Afterwards we re-grouped at the hotel, then headed over to Pasticeria Angelo on via della Croce for lunch. We had a really delightful time, as we were serenaded by a guitar-playing singer, who sang an Italian song that C was quite familiar with and fond of. At the end of the meal, I asked our wait person if she could bring over a little plate of pastries, and we ordered coffees. When the plate arrived, the pastries, were of course a work of art, so CW photographed them. My cell phone rang and it was Giancarlo. The girls went off to explore a few sights, and I met up with GC, who just wanted to chat for a while and pick my brain to come up with a birthday present for me.

As usual, the evening ended with yet another session of limoncello drinking on the roof terrace. (Do you see a pattern here?)
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Old Oct 9th, 2008, 04:56 PM
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Friday was my birthday, and it was a day of decidedly mixed weather. There was some rain, which I thought appropriate, as it rained on the day I was born. J, CW, and I headed out to Vatican City. As a German, CW feels quite an affinity for Pope Benedict XVI, despite the fact she isn't Catholic. J wanted to check things out at Domus Artes to see if she could locate some presents. J and CW both took quite a few photos, and J has some of CW and me in which I have the most animated expressions on my face. Well, it's hard to suppress your emotions when you're in your favorite place on earth. At Domus Artes, there's a very helpful young lady named Elena. She remembered me, and I told her the story of my illness; I'd not been in Rome at all in 2007. She told me she'd also experienced changes since we last met, and she'd given birth to a healthy baby boy in August of 2007. As a present (!) she gave me a medallion of St. Peregrine, the patron saint of cancer patients. N & C had gone jewelry shopping on via Veneto to a spot where N has shopped before.

We met up back at the hotel. Gianni was going to drive us around the whole afternoon to give C & J a much better "flavor" of the sites of Rome. We went to the Church of Santa Maria Maggiore, then headed over to the Forum, where the sun came out. We also went to San Giovanni, "the church" of the Bishop of Rome (the Pope) and Santa Croce. I'd not been to Santa Croce before and was most moved. Gianni also took us to the Trevi, where C and J (and I!) threw in a coin. The sun made various appearances, alternating with some clouds and a few sprinkles here and there. Gianni was able to park up close to the churches we went to, and this made it really great and convenient. He also got out of the van, came in and did little commentaries for us on various features of each venue.

We returned to the hotel to get ourselves gussied up for dinner. I'd packed most of my clothes around the color navy blue, and colors that went with it. (You can take the girl out of the Catholic school, but it's impossible to take the Catholic school out of the girl!) I had packed a new v-neck sheath dress with matching jacket, and to my amazement when I put it on...um..there was cleavage! I asked C if I should wear it, and she responded "If you've got it, flaunt it!", so I did. We had to take 2 cabs to get to the restaurant, and it was raining, so cab was the way to go. CW and I got into one cab, and J,N, and C into another. CW and I arrived and stood outside the restaurant and waited. And waited. Finally after something like 15 minutes, N came OUT of the restaurant and asked how long we'd been there!! As CW and I were in the cab that took off first, and we knew our way to the restaurant and our driver didn't take any "long shortcuts" we are STILL trying to figure out how J, N and C arrived before we did!
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Old Oct 9th, 2008, 04:56 PM
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I want to go with you the next time. So happy to see your report knowing what you went through last year. Your report just made me so joyful.
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Old Oct 9th, 2008, 05:08 PM
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Giancarlo arrived a little late for dinner, but certainly not unduly tardy. We ordered the mixed antipasto sampler starter for the table again, and I noticed--perhaps it was just coincidence?--that the wild boar sausages were not brought to the table! Again, we drank Prosecco, and talked and laughed, and I confessed to everyone that I'd almost cried in Santa Croce that day. One of the relics in the church is the finger of St. Thomas. My father's name was Thomas. There is a stained glass window depicting St. Helen, and my mom's name had been Helen. So on my birthday I felt a special presence of my parents looking down from heaven over me, and felt very moved. C had said the whole trip was simply filled with amazing experiences--whoever would have thought, for example, that she'd find a troubadour singing her favorite Italian ballad to her, when in fact it was actually a quasi-obscure song? I received amazing, wonderful gifts from my friends for my birthday, each of which had very special meanings for me. CW had a mug made which had the same design as the buttons she'd made; in it she put a packet of flavorful tea. Giancarlo gave me a historical print of the Forum. C gave me a pin that belonged to her late and much-beloved mother, and it was a butterfly. She explained she felt it was appropriate because my illness had caused me to undergo my own metamorphosis. N told me she was sending me something when I returned to the States, and she did. J gave me a lovely bracelet, which has been the catalyst for many compliments. At the end of dinner when everyone wanted to toast me, I drank, and then I asked to give a little speech. Because my voice doesn't really project anymore, N sat near me and repeated everything I said in a louder voice, as Giancarlo is a little hard of hearing. I was so moved when I was speaking, I began to cry a little, but the basics of what I said is that life is brief, fortunes come and go, men come and go sometimes, family can be flaky and so I concluded, that friends are our truest treasures. The lights dimmed right on cue, and the restaurant staff brought out my birthday cake. I have never had a finer, more memorable birthday, and I doubt I ever shall.
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Old Oct 9th, 2008, 05:27 PM
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Any photos to let us see the wonderful celebrations?
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Old Oct 9th, 2008, 05:29 PM
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bookchick, this is truly beautiful. I am happy that you and your friend were able to keep your promise to each other. Thank you for sharing with us.
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Old Oct 9th, 2008, 05:36 PM
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Much to our chagrin, Saturday arrived, and this was the day C was leaving to go home. She wanted to do a little shopping after breakfast, and headed out. N was going to meet someone she "knew" who lived near the Olympic Stadium, a woman who sells handbags online and invited her to her home for lunch. J, CW and I headed out to the general area of the Piazza delle Cinque Lune/Piazza Navona. J wanted to see the Pharmacia di Santa Maria Novella to see if any fragrances "sang" to her, CW wanted to snap some photos, and I was along for my fabulous translation skills and sense of time and direction. Nothing really "sang" to J, so we headed to an outdoor cafe in Piazza Navona and had some gelato while CW snapped away with the pics. It was cold and sunny, and the heaters at this particular place were working hard. We decided to head back to the hotel to say farewell to C before she departed. Gianni was taking her to the airport. When we arrived at the hotel, C seemed surprised and happy to see us; we sat in the lobby and watched the most amazing thing: the San Carlo was getting new mattresses, and at least a half-dozen guys were hauling them all in. It was almost like a movie scene from some crazy comedy, and we couldn't help but laugh. At last Gianni arrived and we walked C out to the van, and blew kisses to her as they drove away. So delighted she joined us, and so profoundly sorry to see her go.

Each of us decided to repair to our rooms for a while, but after a bit I decided to venture out onto the roof terrace. Now CW had a room with a private terrace, that was separated from the roof terrace by a screen. Her private terrace not only had a couple of chairs, but a little table, and she came out, and we saw each other and she invited me over. I came over and we began to chat. It was still sunny out but a tad cold, and CW, a gracious hostess, went into the room and returned with a pashmina for me and a jacket for herself. N appeared and sat down and told us all about her luncheon with her Italian friend.

CW has a friend who is a film-maker of documentaries and lives in Rome. The girls had decided to meet up with her for dinner, and I was invited but begged off. I had a mild headache and felt a bit "off". So I read in my room and watched a bit of TV and dozed.

Sunday morning was also very sad for us because CW was leaving to go back to Karlsruhe, her home in Germany. We had breakfast together, and hugs were exchanged, and promises of pictures sent to each other. I missed her the instant she left, such a talented lady.

This left N, J and myself to our own devices. We went out to Vatican City after we knew the Pope had already given his blessing, in order to avoid the crowds. N wanted to mail some postcards from the Vatican postal slot, as their mail delivery to overseas venues seems to be faster than Italian mail. We popped into Domus Artes and saw Elena, and she urged us to go to the restaurant, Cafe Bernini, where her husband works. It's right on Piazza Navona, so we thought, sure, what the heck, we'd try it.

J was feeling a bit off, and wanted to look for a pharmacy. We found one on via del Corso and I went in with her and spoke Italian on her behalf to request some throat lozenges. Because my voice is so "off", Giancarlo had given me a throat spray, and I'd passed that along to J to use at the hotel. The food at Cafe Bernini wasn't bad, we had lunch there, and just kind of wandered around Rome. Elena's husband, Massimo was a kind, delightful fellow.

Each of us took a little time in our rooms alone and then met up again in the lobby to decide what to do for dinner. We ended up in the place of the Handsome Waiter, Di Fronte A..where N and the waiter flirted back and forth much to the amusement of J and myself. I was feeling a bit of indigestion and ordered some pineapple for the natural digestive enzymes. We returned to our hotel to go to sleep on our last night in Rome.
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Old Oct 9th, 2008, 05:53 PM
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Monday morning dawned, sunlit and perfect and our last morning in Rome. N had arranged for the car service we'd be using, and I think I stayed in my room until the very last possible moment, simply because I couldn't face the reality this was all ending, and I didn't want it to. Dante and Christopher came to my room to collect my bags and I thought I would burst into tears. I had written little notes to several members of the staff, and brought them to the lobby with me. In Italian I had written to Alberto "thank you for making my dream a reality". Now in the past, Alberto has come out from behind the front desk to shake hands with me, but this time he kissed me on each cheek, held my face in his hands, and said "Signora Kelly, everybody loves you. Please come back and see us again as soon as you can, and stay healthy and beautiful as you are today". It was all I could do once again not to burst into tears. It helped to have N and J with me, and the 3 of us, once situated in the SUV taking us to the airport, chattered away like magpies. J, I could tell, was still feeling a bit under the weather but was carrying on like a trouper. She and I were on the same flight to Amsterdam. When we arrived at the airport and figured out where we needed to be, we bid farewell to N, who was flying on a different airline on a non-stop to a US city close to her home. As we hugged, I said to her "It was the best promise I ever made" to which she added "and kept!", and I knew she was right.

J and I flew KLM Royal Dutch (partnered with NWA), and were in seats near each other, with one empty seat between us. We were fed lunch, and had the opportunity to chat a bit more. Once we arrived in Amsterdam, J had to find her gate, as her flight departed an hour ahead of mine. I plunked down in a KLM lounge and send off a couple of e-mails.

After I arrived home, a package from N came. She was amused that I was floundering so much with my new hair, and its post-chemo curliness. I'd jokingly dubbed myself "The Shoodle", telling the ladies my hair was a cross between a sheep and a poodle. N sent a book on dealing with curly hair, and some "non-shampoos" as those of us with curly hair don't need to use shampoo all that often, and in some instances not at all. C had joked that while in Italy her motto had been "follow the Shoodle" and that my blonde hair stood out for both the color and curly aspects, making it easy for her to spot and follow me in almost every venue.

I will never, ever, ever forget or regret a moment of this trip, and I am keenly aware of how fortunate I am, not only to still be alive, but to have marvelous friends who would travel all that way simply to help me celebrate that fact.

The even better news? My last set of scans, done in August, bear out that I remain in remission. Two weeks ago my hematologist in Boston told me I need to have the scans repeated in 6 months, and if those are clear, I won't need to have them repeated for a year.

Life is filled with compensations, delights, and is generally quite sweet.

Thanks for reading,
BC
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Old Oct 9th, 2008, 06:05 PM
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BRAVO!!!! Wish this report was longer.
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Old Oct 9th, 2008, 06:16 PM
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Wow. Just...wow. What a wonderful trip report! I'm so glad you were able to do this, Bookchick.

Lee Ann
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Old Oct 9th, 2008, 06:19 PM
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Bookchick, what a truly wonderful report. Where are a box of tissues when you need them?

I'm so glad you had such a great visit with your friends.

Here's to many more trips to Rome.

Johanna
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