Bologna
#1
Original Poster
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 113
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Bologna
We were planning on getting to Bologna after Parma but my wife has seen some negative comments about this city. What do those who have been there think? Are there nice towns nearby to spend 2 nights in...then off to Rome to fly back to Chicago.
Last edited by DrG; Jun 10th, 2018 at 11:19 AM. Reason: spelling error
#4
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 127
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Bologna is a city, with all that implies: traffic, pollution, density, high prices, class stratification and a very minor crime problem (easily bypassed if you pick the right neighborhoods) -- but mostly it appeals to people who
(a) prefer cities to smaller towns because there is "more to see and do"
(b) want a "hub" for sightseeing to other towns (Bologna has great train connections to all the towns of Emilia-Romagna plus parts of Lombardia and the Veneto)
(c) like atmospheric historic Italian cities for "wandering/soaking up atmosphere) that are not as touristed as Rome-Florence-Venice
and last but not least
(c) are fascinated by fresh handmade pasta and want to take a cooking class to learn how to make it
If none of those things float your boat, there are plenty of smaller towns with train stations right nearby that might suit you, depending on your interests (Modena, Mantova, Ravenna, Ferrara, Faenza, Rimini). You just need to state what you are looking for.
However, if you are coming from Parma and would like something very different, but are ultimately headed to Rome, then my suggestions are either (a) Pisa or Livorno if you love cities and sights to see (plus Livorno has killer food and markets) or (b) Arezzo or Orvieto -- both require a dogleg from Florence, and thus you will spend extra time in train stations, but both are beautiful charming Italian art cities, neither mass-touristed, both with lovely wine and some amazing sights. Arezzo if you love antiques and Orvieto if you like history and some vineyard views.
(a) prefer cities to smaller towns because there is "more to see and do"
(b) want a "hub" for sightseeing to other towns (Bologna has great train connections to all the towns of Emilia-Romagna plus parts of Lombardia and the Veneto)
(c) like atmospheric historic Italian cities for "wandering/soaking up atmosphere) that are not as touristed as Rome-Florence-Venice
and last but not least
(c) are fascinated by fresh handmade pasta and want to take a cooking class to learn how to make it
If none of those things float your boat, there are plenty of smaller towns with train stations right nearby that might suit you, depending on your interests (Modena, Mantova, Ravenna, Ferrara, Faenza, Rimini). You just need to state what you are looking for.
However, if you are coming from Parma and would like something very different, but are ultimately headed to Rome, then my suggestions are either (a) Pisa or Livorno if you love cities and sights to see (plus Livorno has killer food and markets) or (b) Arezzo or Orvieto -- both require a dogleg from Florence, and thus you will spend extra time in train stations, but both are beautiful charming Italian art cities, neither mass-touristed, both with lovely wine and some amazing sights. Arezzo if you love antiques and Orvieto if you like history and some vineyard views.
Last edited by kitbag; Jun 10th, 2018 at 12:07 PM.
#5

Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,858
Likes: 0
(I just realized that this is an old thread but this current post might be useful for someone still looking for Bologna info.)
We were in Bologna last October (2017) and loved it. We were in Turin, then Bologna and finally Cortona and while we enjoyed all three places (and all three are quite different), we enjoyed Bologna best by far.
Here's a note I wrote for a friend who was also planning a Bologna visit:
Bologna
Turin was very pretty and we enjoyed it but Bologna was so much more lively, probably because it’s a university town.
We traveled to Bologna by train (in fact the whole trip was by train until the Cortona part). We stayed in a studio apartment which was in a great location but the apartment itself, while clean, completely lacked any sort of charm. The rental company is Residenza Ariosto which we found through hotels.com. Still, it was quiet and very convenient.
The posh hotel is called the Grand Hotel Majestic (www.duetorrihotels.com). We made do with going for drinks in their lovely bar. I discovered the Bellini – sparkling wine and peach nectar --there!
The main square is the Piazza Maggiori in front of the main cathedral, St. Petronius. That square is surrounded by a number of interesting, historic buildings. Also interesting and nearby are the Anatomical Theatre and the Music Museum & Library. The Music Museum is interesting only partially because of the collection of original manuscripts and instruments but the really gorgeous thing is the trompe l’oeil paintings throughout – they’re amazing.
Next to Piazza Maggiore is the Quadrilateral District which is an area of small streets which is the main marketplace and it’s a definite must. Tons of sweet shops and restaurants but also greengrocers, butchers, fishmongers, beautiful bakeries, etc.
Via Farini is the very fancy shopping district, like 5th Avenue and leads to the Piazza San Stefano and the Corte Isolani which is very interesting (7 ancient churches built on top of each other).
From Bologna, we did a day trip by train to Ravenna to see the famous Byzantine mosaics which are breathtakingly beautiful and should not be missed. The mosaics are a short walk from the station in four structures which look like nothing from the outside. You can buy tickets nearby and either join a tour group or go through on your own. We did it on our own but we had reading material to guide us.
We also took a fun cooking class in Bologna at Il Salotto di Penelope (www.ilsalottodipenelope.it) with Barbara and Valerie. It was a small class (about people) and you can either start it at the school or meet Barbara at the market area and shop for the class ingredients with her. We chose to do that and it was so interesting and so much fun. At the class, we made gnocchi, tortelloni and tagliatelli and then we all sat down and ate it! The two teachers are fun and very easy-going.
The other great thing we did from Bologna was a tour of a parmagiana factory, a prosciutto factory and a balsamic factory, which included a stop at the Ferrari museum and the opportunity to drive a Ferrari (www.amazing-italy.com). They offer several tours but the one we took was called Food & Ferrari and it was fantastic. We started at 8 a.m. and didn’t get back till 6 p.m. and it was a very comfortable, clean small van/bus with 18 people plus the guide. The tour guide spoke English well and each stop was so interesting, plus each one offered us snacks and wine. The tour ended up with a wonderful lunch at a very nice restaurant in the country. It was really a wonderful day!
We were in Bologna last October (2017) and loved it. We were in Turin, then Bologna and finally Cortona and while we enjoyed all three places (and all three are quite different), we enjoyed Bologna best by far.
Here's a note I wrote for a friend who was also planning a Bologna visit:
Bologna
Turin was very pretty and we enjoyed it but Bologna was so much more lively, probably because it’s a university town.
We traveled to Bologna by train (in fact the whole trip was by train until the Cortona part). We stayed in a studio apartment which was in a great location but the apartment itself, while clean, completely lacked any sort of charm. The rental company is Residenza Ariosto which we found through hotels.com. Still, it was quiet and very convenient.
The posh hotel is called the Grand Hotel Majestic (www.duetorrihotels.com). We made do with going for drinks in their lovely bar. I discovered the Bellini – sparkling wine and peach nectar --there!
The main square is the Piazza Maggiori in front of the main cathedral, St. Petronius. That square is surrounded by a number of interesting, historic buildings. Also interesting and nearby are the Anatomical Theatre and the Music Museum & Library. The Music Museum is interesting only partially because of the collection of original manuscripts and instruments but the really gorgeous thing is the trompe l’oeil paintings throughout – they’re amazing.
Next to Piazza Maggiore is the Quadrilateral District which is an area of small streets which is the main marketplace and it’s a definite must. Tons of sweet shops and restaurants but also greengrocers, butchers, fishmongers, beautiful bakeries, etc.
Via Farini is the very fancy shopping district, like 5th Avenue and leads to the Piazza San Stefano and the Corte Isolani which is very interesting (7 ancient churches built on top of each other).
From Bologna, we did a day trip by train to Ravenna to see the famous Byzantine mosaics which are breathtakingly beautiful and should not be missed. The mosaics are a short walk from the station in four structures which look like nothing from the outside. You can buy tickets nearby and either join a tour group or go through on your own. We did it on our own but we had reading material to guide us.
We also took a fun cooking class in Bologna at Il Salotto di Penelope (www.ilsalottodipenelope.it) with Barbara and Valerie. It was a small class (about people) and you can either start it at the school or meet Barbara at the market area and shop for the class ingredients with her. We chose to do that and it was so interesting and so much fun. At the class, we made gnocchi, tortelloni and tagliatelli and then we all sat down and ate it! The two teachers are fun and very easy-going.
The other great thing we did from Bologna was a tour of a parmagiana factory, a prosciutto factory and a balsamic factory, which included a stop at the Ferrari museum and the opportunity to drive a Ferrari (www.amazing-italy.com). They offer several tours but the one we took was called Food & Ferrari and it was fantastic. We started at 8 a.m. and didn’t get back till 6 p.m. and it was a very comfortable, clean small van/bus with 18 people plus the guide. The tour guide spoke English well and each stop was so interesting, plus each one offered us snacks and wine. The tour ended up with a wonderful lunch at a very nice restaurant in the country. It was really a wonderful day!
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#8
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 71
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We very much enjoyed our three days in Bologna. We were there during the summer cinema festival, and one of my favorite memories from all of our travels to Italy was watching Rebel Without A Cause with about 1000 other people on a perfect summer night under the stars on the huge screen in the main piazza. The food was phenomenal, and it wasn't at all a touristy city. We also enjoyed the Museum of Modern Art in Bologna, and also took a food tour. It was for us no different than any other Italian city in terms of safety (we have never really ever felt unsafe, and Bologna was the same), and there is a lot of graffiti on buildings, but we enjoyed the graffiti too. I would return for sure in a future trip.
#10

Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,858
Likes: 0
OK, this is weird. I just thought I posted about my error in thinking this was an old thread (I was looking at the wrong date) but that post didn't show. Anyway, I'm glad I posted my Bologna info since this turns out to be a current thread.
I also would be interested to know what concerns your wife about Bologna.
Also, there's another thread about this? Where?
I also would be interested to know what concerns your wife about Bologna.
Also, there's another thread about this? Where?
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