Bluebells and Blackfaced Sheep on the Single Track Roads of Scotland
Jun 18th, 2015, 08:41 AM
#21
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Thanks! I've been working with my publisher on a cover while my editor works on my manuscript 
I'm glad you visited Edinbane. It's definitely off the beaten path. We stayed at a B&B/Restaurant/Pub that was just around the corner from the pottery shop.
I'm glad you visited Edinbane. It's definitely off the beaten path. We stayed at a B&B/Restaurant/Pub that was just around the corner from the pottery shop.
Jun 18th, 2015, 11:18 AM
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Shouldbewriting, 17 years of wanting to go back gave me every opportunity to plan things down to the last detail. If you want to go, do it before it becomes overrun. It's still a very special place and I hope they are smart enough to not let it get ruined.
Jun 18th, 2015, 01:22 PM
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Reading your report with great enthusiasm and taking a few notes. We will be soon in Scotland and will enjoy everything you are mentioning.
Would love to find out what lovely things you brought back--stuff not easily available in the US.
Looking forward to the rest of the trip.
Would love to find out what lovely things you brought back--stuff not easily available in the US.
Looking forward to the rest of the trip.
Jun 18th, 2015, 03:37 PM
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http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Rev...nd.html#photos
That is some bathroom!
Sounds like a great trip.
That is some bathroom!
Sounds like a great trip.
Jun 18th, 2015, 04:17 PM
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Hi Hopingtotravel -- Just read this & really enjoying your report. I went to Scotland several summers ago and was nearly eaten alive by the midges in Glencoe! Apart from that, and the speed cameras on the roads, it's a wonderful, wonderful country!
And Flpab, you're right! Great bathroom!
And Flpab, you're right! Great bathroom!
Jun 18th, 2015, 05:21 PM
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Noop, believe it or not our bathroom was even more la di dah than that.
However, in 1998, SO MANY of those long skinny bathtubs (often in black cherry or purple porcelain) with the teeny water deflector panel, and the shower being the handhold thing from down on the faucet.
Much improved everywhere although one or two were just a tad claustrophobic.
I actually had NO midge encounters, but DH saw maybe just a few on the trip.
However, in 1998, SO MANY of those long skinny bathtubs (often in black cherry or purple porcelain) with the teeny water deflector panel, and the shower being the handhold thing from down on the faucet.
Much improved everywhere although one or two were just a tad claustrophobic.
I actually had NO midge encounters, but DH saw maybe just a few on the trip.
Jun 19th, 2015, 05:37 AM
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Just found this. What a lovely trip report. Thanks for posting.
We did something very similar a couple of years ago, almost the same route and with as much joy. In May. I think we had better weather and no mishaps with car ( a little one) or health.
Hard to say which place we enjoyed more and certainly on the list for a revisit.
We did something very similar a couple of years ago, almost the same route and with as much joy. In May. I think we had better weather and no mishaps with car ( a little one) or health.
Hard to say which place we enjoyed more and certainly on the list for a revisit.
Jun 19th, 2015, 07:01 AM
#34
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ileen, re: your question about things we brought back. I was very cautious since I bought a sweater in Fowey in 2000, then came home to find the same sweater at Nordstrom in Anchorage for about 2/3 the price. Fodorites had said don't buy anything you can find in US.
So most of the things I bought were the little picture notecards, etc, that were quintessentially Scottish. Also some paper napkins for entertainment with a beautiful Highland cow on them. Can't find that here!
Back to the trip:
By the time we left Tobermory our antibiotics were kicking in. Luckily there was not much traffic on the road out to Duarte Castle, because it was REALLY narrow. We did not tour the inside. It is great to see them continue to restore some of these places, as they are priceless and once gone, no one is building stone fortress castles any more!
The ferry ride back to Oban was gorgeous, and I was surprised to be able to see (from a different perspective) some of the same waterways that I'd seen from near Port Appin.
We didn't tarry too much around Oban. It is a colorful, interesting little city, but the driving was pretty complicated.
There is more than one way to go from Oban to Glasgow. The one we chose includes a highway called 'The Rest and Be Thankful' -- I think the same route we took in 1998.
However, we had booked one last overnight before going back. It turned out to be one of the most unique of the trip.
At Taynult we turned on a wandering 7-mile singletrack going toward Kilchrennan. Our destination was Taychreggan on Loch Awe. I had started researching trips to the British Isles before info was common on the internet. At one time I had one of those empty Xerox paper boxes FULL of brochures. Taychreggan lodge was mentioned as a multiple stay (in 1988) by the Coopersmith garden tours. (Actually some of their beautiful floral chintz curtains may have been there since 1988--but I've discovered that also at the Oregon Gardens hotel which does a thriving business). I just can't help it. I had once been an English teacher--nothing to do with textiles, but I can usually put a rough date on upholstery or curtains.
Anyway, Taychreggan has a gorgeous setting with a sloping lawn right down to the Loch. It's a 300-year-old drovers' inn with extensive sitting room spaces, a billiards room, a room that I would say had maybe been an orangerie, and a somewhat e-shaped floor plan with lots of spacious rooms upstairs. Our room even had a walk-in closet with vanity table. The hallways and stairwells were graced with local art, including a shining oil of Kilchurn Castle, and a stuffed multi-point stag head.
There is also a small bar, and a large dining space with a loch view. The assistant manager who checked us in was the personification of customer service.
One mention on being a 'drovers' inn'. The literature said it was the narrow point of the loch where drovers could get their livestock safely across on the way to market. (and also mentioned Rob Roy as being, among other things, a cattle thief).
I'm trying to remember if their recent awards were based on food. The food was excellent. The Cullen skink had been blended and was a foamy cream. Boy did I want more! Also had my first haggis. DH said it was his 3rd, and vastly different all 3 times. One time like the sausage shape in a lining like you typically read about, one time more like a Morningstar patty, and at Taychreggan something indescribably richly different. The fix prix (sp) dinner also included a couple small medallions of venison.
Someone there celebrated a birthday that night with fireworks over the loch.
Next day: the drive back to Glasgow
So most of the things I bought were the little picture notecards, etc, that were quintessentially Scottish. Also some paper napkins for entertainment with a beautiful Highland cow on them. Can't find that here!
Back to the trip:
By the time we left Tobermory our antibiotics were kicking in. Luckily there was not much traffic on the road out to Duarte Castle, because it was REALLY narrow. We did not tour the inside. It is great to see them continue to restore some of these places, as they are priceless and once gone, no one is building stone fortress castles any more!
The ferry ride back to Oban was gorgeous, and I was surprised to be able to see (from a different perspective) some of the same waterways that I'd seen from near Port Appin.
We didn't tarry too much around Oban. It is a colorful, interesting little city, but the driving was pretty complicated.
There is more than one way to go from Oban to Glasgow. The one we chose includes a highway called 'The Rest and Be Thankful' -- I think the same route we took in 1998.
However, we had booked one last overnight before going back. It turned out to be one of the most unique of the trip.
At Taynult we turned on a wandering 7-mile singletrack going toward Kilchrennan. Our destination was Taychreggan on Loch Awe. I had started researching trips to the British Isles before info was common on the internet. At one time I had one of those empty Xerox paper boxes FULL of brochures. Taychreggan lodge was mentioned as a multiple stay (in 1988) by the Coopersmith garden tours. (Actually some of their beautiful floral chintz curtains may have been there since 1988--but I've discovered that also at the Oregon Gardens hotel which does a thriving business). I just can't help it. I had once been an English teacher--nothing to do with textiles, but I can usually put a rough date on upholstery or curtains.
Anyway, Taychreggan has a gorgeous setting with a sloping lawn right down to the Loch. It's a 300-year-old drovers' inn with extensive sitting room spaces, a billiards room, a room that I would say had maybe been an orangerie, and a somewhat e-shaped floor plan with lots of spacious rooms upstairs. Our room even had a walk-in closet with vanity table. The hallways and stairwells were graced with local art, including a shining oil of Kilchurn Castle, and a stuffed multi-point stag head.
There is also a small bar, and a large dining space with a loch view. The assistant manager who checked us in was the personification of customer service.
One mention on being a 'drovers' inn'. The literature said it was the narrow point of the loch where drovers could get their livestock safely across on the way to market. (and also mentioned Rob Roy as being, among other things, a cattle thief).
I'm trying to remember if their recent awards were based on food. The food was excellent. The Cullen skink had been blended and was a foamy cream. Boy did I want more! Also had my first haggis. DH said it was his 3rd, and vastly different all 3 times. One time like the sausage shape in a lining like you typically read about, one time more like a Morningstar patty, and at Taychreggan something indescribably richly different. The fix prix (sp) dinner also included a couple small medallions of venison.
Someone there celebrated a birthday that night with fireworks over the loch.
Next day: the drive back to Glasgow
Jun 21st, 2015, 08:10 PM
#36
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Sorry--was out of town overnight.
Now, back to leaving Taychreggan for Glasgow. Did I mention that on that little road were the largest, most beautiful of the Highland cows I'd seen the whole trip?
Although we have a 1998 blow-up of Kilchurn Castle on our wall, we had promised ourselves this time we would find the parking lot and see the other side. We even had info from several (including here) how to find it.
Nope! Missed it again! Running late so once again contented ourselves with seeing it across a field. We've told ourselves that's the best view anyway; never see it photographed from another angle.
So on to Inverreray (sp). We had also been there, but after seeing the PBS special on the castle last winter, we decided to stop and at least have lunch, although we didn't tour inside. This one looks a lot more livable. The girl in the gift shop gave DH a funny look when he asked if the Duke was working in the gift shop today. (Well, he had been when they made the TV show).
The Rest and Be Thankful joins the highway near Loch Lomond close to Tarbert - where we had had the flat. This being a Thursday afternoon, not Sunday we expected less traffic. Not so. We did pull into Cameron House thinking of a drink of tea, but all their parking lots were aswarm so we continued on to Glasgow.
The Holiday Inn Express was actually walking distance to take our bags to the airport next morning. Clean, friendly and convenient for a last night near the airport.
The original plan had been for a bit of bus or taxi touring of Glasgow, but we decided to wait for morning as our flight wasn't scheduled until 2:00.
Next morning we took a taxi to Kelvingrove Park and enjoyed walking around there with the water and rhododendrohns. I would have enjoyed the museum. Had an expresso at a sidewalk café and they called a taxi for back to the airport.
Again we flew Iceland Air to Iceland. This time it was clear flying over Scotland and I enjoyed trying to piece the different waterways together from the air. It should have been impossible for an amateur but I decided the one snow-capped peak I saw must have been Ben Nevis, then went from there.
Just a comment on the airport at Kevlik (sp ) Iceland. Seems ultra new and modern, but there is no room for the planeloads of people to sit while they are waiting. The only food offered is similar to Spar pre-made sandwiches packaged in a dairy case. The real oddity was that the bathrooms were all individual rooms with a sink, counter and toilet and light fixture in each room.
Off again, and landed at Boston, whose international airport is really not very impressive.
We overnighted at the Hyatt Boston Harbor.
Briefly more on that tomorrow. Plus, any extra trip comments.
Now, back to leaving Taychreggan for Glasgow. Did I mention that on that little road were the largest, most beautiful of the Highland cows I'd seen the whole trip?
Although we have a 1998 blow-up of Kilchurn Castle on our wall, we had promised ourselves this time we would find the parking lot and see the other side. We even had info from several (including here) how to find it.
Nope! Missed it again! Running late so once again contented ourselves with seeing it across a field. We've told ourselves that's the best view anyway; never see it photographed from another angle.
So on to Inverreray (sp). We had also been there, but after seeing the PBS special on the castle last winter, we decided to stop and at least have lunch, although we didn't tour inside. This one looks a lot more livable. The girl in the gift shop gave DH a funny look when he asked if the Duke was working in the gift shop today. (Well, he had been when they made the TV show).
The Rest and Be Thankful joins the highway near Loch Lomond close to Tarbert - where we had had the flat. This being a Thursday afternoon, not Sunday we expected less traffic. Not so. We did pull into Cameron House thinking of a drink of tea, but all their parking lots were aswarm so we continued on to Glasgow.
The Holiday Inn Express was actually walking distance to take our bags to the airport next morning. Clean, friendly and convenient for a last night near the airport.
The original plan had been for a bit of bus or taxi touring of Glasgow, but we decided to wait for morning as our flight wasn't scheduled until 2:00.
Next morning we took a taxi to Kelvingrove Park and enjoyed walking around there with the water and rhododendrohns. I would have enjoyed the museum. Had an expresso at a sidewalk café and they called a taxi for back to the airport.
Again we flew Iceland Air to Iceland. This time it was clear flying over Scotland and I enjoyed trying to piece the different waterways together from the air. It should have been impossible for an amateur but I decided the one snow-capped peak I saw must have been Ben Nevis, then went from there.
Just a comment on the airport at Kevlik (sp ) Iceland. Seems ultra new and modern, but there is no room for the planeloads of people to sit while they are waiting. The only food offered is similar to Spar pre-made sandwiches packaged in a dairy case. The real oddity was that the bathrooms were all individual rooms with a sink, counter and toilet and light fixture in each room.
Off again, and landed at Boston, whose international airport is really not very impressive.
We overnighted at the Hyatt Boston Harbor.
Briefly more on that tomorrow. Plus, any extra trip comments.
Jun 21st, 2015, 08:32 PM
#37
>>Nope! Missed it again! << 
You aren't the first to report having trouble/missing the (little) parking area. Not sure what the issue is -- I've been there several times and never specifically look for the turn out. It is just <i>there</i>. I don't even remember if it is signposted. From the Oban direction it is on the right just after crossing the river. (and from the east it is just before the river)
When you see the Castle on the right -- pull in and park. This shows it. You park on the white-ish drive. Then it is quite a walk across to the castle on the loch side.
https://www.google.com/maps/@56.4051.../data=!3m1!1e3
You aren't the first to report having trouble/missing the (little) parking area. Not sure what the issue is -- I've been there several times and never specifically look for the turn out. It is just <i>there</i>. I don't even remember if it is signposted. From the Oban direction it is on the right just after crossing the river. (and from the east it is just before the river)
When you see the Castle on the right -- pull in and park. This shows it. You park on the white-ish drive. Then it is quite a walk across to the castle on the loch side.
https://www.google.com/maps/@56.4051.../data=!3m1!1e3
Jun 22nd, 2015, 07:54 AM
#39
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First, a couple of cultural comments:
Women in Scotland must have a slightly different status than in U. S. All the hotels we stayed at had friendly, great customer service. However, we noticed that any time that I went down to breakfast first, or showed up for my evening wine before DH, I pretty much got ignored. Once, it was at least 1/2 hour before they brought me a menu.
Second, on our third night at Cuillen Hills hotel we were in our room getting ready for dinner. Suddenly there were running footsteps up and down the hall, giggling and door slamming. (This also went on after dinner until late at night when we were trying to sleep). No, not kids--adults. We looked out in the hall. A Japanese tour bus (one of the big ones)had arrived just before dinner. I know it was just a cultural thing, but kind of a jolt. Apparently what they were doing was racing out to get their selfie pictures with the harbor background before they had to unpack.
OK, back to the harbor at Boston. On our way to Scotland we had walked most of the Freedom Trail and had clam chowder at the Union Oyster House--purportedly the oldest continually operating restaurant in the country. It was a pretty warm day for so much walking.
So, on our return overnight (with the bronchitis) we spent the day watching from across the harbor. The plan had been to take the water taxis across, but it was an even hotter day so we scuttled it. We took some walks, read, and drank wine and got a sunburn.
An interesting aside. There was a large wedding that evening in a tent next to the hotel -- great music too. At sunset, the fireboat for the Boston Harbor, went out in the middle of the water and turned on all its hoses, with the sunset as a background turning the water pink--in honor of the bride and groom. What a beautiful display!
Another smooth and scenic Alaska Air flight home the next morning.
So that's it. Loved, loved Scotland.
Women in Scotland must have a slightly different status than in U. S. All the hotels we stayed at had friendly, great customer service. However, we noticed that any time that I went down to breakfast first, or showed up for my evening wine before DH, I pretty much got ignored. Once, it was at least 1/2 hour before they brought me a menu.
Second, on our third night at Cuillen Hills hotel we were in our room getting ready for dinner. Suddenly there were running footsteps up and down the hall, giggling and door slamming. (This also went on after dinner until late at night when we were trying to sleep). No, not kids--adults. We looked out in the hall. A Japanese tour bus (one of the big ones)had arrived just before dinner. I know it was just a cultural thing, but kind of a jolt. Apparently what they were doing was racing out to get their selfie pictures with the harbor background before they had to unpack.
OK, back to the harbor at Boston. On our way to Scotland we had walked most of the Freedom Trail and had clam chowder at the Union Oyster House--purportedly the oldest continually operating restaurant in the country. It was a pretty warm day for so much walking.
So, on our return overnight (with the bronchitis) we spent the day watching from across the harbor. The plan had been to take the water taxis across, but it was an even hotter day so we scuttled it. We took some walks, read, and drank wine and got a sunburn.
An interesting aside. There was a large wedding that evening in a tent next to the hotel -- great music too. At sunset, the fireboat for the Boston Harbor, went out in the middle of the water and turned on all its hoses, with the sunset as a background turning the water pink--in honor of the bride and groom. What a beautiful display!
Another smooth and scenic Alaska Air flight home the next morning.
So that's it. Loved, loved Scotland.
