Bilbao Restaurants

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Dec 23rd, 2002, 08:42 AM

June

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Bilbao Restaurants

I will be in Bilbao for 1 day only. I am trying to find out when restaurants are open. Do they generally close between lunch and dinner? Other than the Guggenhein, is it possible to take a brief tour of the city> Thanks for your help

Dec 23rd, 2002, 01:29 PM

Maribel

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June, This is a job for our resident "bilbaína", cova, but I'll get you started with a visitor's perspective, then she can give you the ultimate insider's guide. Yes, restaurants in Spain do close between lunch and dinner. In Bilbao we find them open for lunch at 1 at the earliest, or 1:30. They then close at 3:30 or at the very latest, 4, then open again for dinner at 8:30 at the very earliest, some not until 9. Between those hours, you could always have a sandwich or "plato combinado" at a "cafetería" (like a US coffee shop; El Corte Inglés dept. store on the Gran Vía has one, right, cova?) but... much, much better still, treat yourself to fabulous gourmet tapas, here called "pintxos" at one of Bilbao's lively bars. In the Basque Country they take their pintxos to a higher level; it's a true art form, and they have yearly competitions with prizes for the most creative treats. They're haute cuisine in miniature. Our favorite pintxo bars in Bilbao are- In the new town, or the Ensanche: The bar at the Guggenheim, btwn 11-noon "El Globo", on pedestrian Calle Diputación "La Vinya del Ensanche" next dr. for jamón "Café Iruña" across from Jardines de Albia for "pinchos morunos" (shish kebabs) (also has a terrific value, set priced lunch) "Serrantes", Licenciado Poza 16 for "rabas" (fried calamari) and shellfish. In the old quarter, the "Casco Viejo": "Victor Montes" and "Cafe Bilbao" both on the atmospheric Plaza Nueva, the heart of the old city-a perfect place to sit and "people-watch" on one of the outdoor terraces-we go before noon for morning pintxos and around 7 for evening ones. Bilbao is quite compact, so it's very possible to take a walking tour. We start ours at the Gugg at 10, when the doors open, (closed Mon, but July/Aug open daily at 9), then you can pick up a map at the tourist office, stay right and stroll down Alameda Mazarredo over to the very pretty Doña Casilda de Iturriazar Park, and you'll see the Museo de Bellas Artes, an unsung gem, which has a wonderful collection and often very good special exhibits (free Wed.), then stroll down Máximo Aguirre to the flower-filled Plaza Moyúa rotunda, then left down the semi-pedestrianized beautiful Gran Vía López de Haro (nice shopping, also the stores on Rodríguez Arias), cross the Nervión River on the Arenal bridge past the Arriaga Theater and into the Old Quarter with its warren of lively streets south of the cathedral, the "7 calles" (check out the pintxos at Bar Gatz on Santa María 10), see the cathedral, maybe even the small Basque museum, and end your long walk with a rest on the Plaza Nueva. You can return via the nifty subway whose stations were designed by Sir Norman Foster. In between the new city and the old quarter, at around 1 (before it gets packed), you might enjoy that great value, informal and quick lunch at Café Iruña, with its extravagant Moorish decor. I call it a kind of bustling Parisian brasserie with a heavy touch of the Alhambra. With only a day, you probably don't want to spend 2+ hrs. dining in one of the Michelin starred temples like Zortziko or Gorrotxa. Now, cova can give you (and me!) much better ideas, and all the up-to-date, insider's scoop.

Dec 23rd, 2002, 02:12 PM

Jade

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Maribel, As a basque in Sydney, Australia, you momentarily transported me back to Bilbao...what I would do to eat a 'pimiento relleno de bacalao'. Thanks, Jade

Dec 24th, 2002, 06:57 AM

cova

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Jade, begin to fill them as I am doing right now for tomorrow´s dinner

I´ll be back later for June, and yes, there are more things to do apart of the Guggenheim. Just two weeks ago I had friends from Sidney around, and we enjoyed two great days (having fit only one museum and not doing any shopping). They stayed at the High Tech Arana and decided that it was great. Merry Christmas everybody ! Cova

Dec 24th, 2002, 07:11 AM

Maribel

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Kaixo cova, Jade, cristina and everyone from Euskadi: ZORIONAK ETA URTE BERRI ON! June, I forgot to mention 2 nice shops where you can see or purchase unique Basque items such as linens, handicrafts, gourmet products, wines, music, books on Basque history and culture: "Basandere", close to the Guggen on Iparraguirre #4 Also "Recuerda Bilbao" in the Casco Viejo at Carnicería Vieja #8, across from the entrance to the Plaza Nueva. Has pretty handicrafts as well. Agur, Maribel