Beyond Paris - a belated trip report from May 2003
Dec 2nd, 2003, 02:47 PM
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Into every life a little rain must fall. The next morning it was cloudy and rainy, so we just had to make the best of it. We probably didn't get to see as much of Beaujolais as we would have had it been nice out, but we stopped someplace long enough to pick up some bumper stickers and a wine glass, then on for lunch in Chalon sur Saone. This is a lovely little city. We ate at a simple bar which seemed more local than touristy, but again this was OBVIOUSLY not tourist time. We bought some gorgeous candies in lovely packages for gifts (as well as to satisfy our own sweet teeth) and hit the road, aimed toward Beaune. Beaune is an easy town to negotiate, and we quickly found parking near the center of town. We took the tour of the Hospices (and naturally many many pictures) then walked over to Marche aux Vins for the tasting. Let's just say it was the souvenir tastevins that made it worth while. I also got some neat pictures of the darkened cellars with candles -- it was cool ambience-wise although the wines were remarkably pedestrian bordering on dreadful. Pretty much of a shock as I expected much more. Back on the road to Gevrey-Chambertain and our hotel for the next 2 nights, Hotel Les Grands Crus. This was a very comfortable place to stay, with a terrific bathroom (one of those wonderful deep deep tubs) and comfy beds. We had made reservations before leaving at one of the highly recommended restaurants in Gevrey-Chambertain, Le Rotisserie du Chambertain. While it was a romantic looking place, frankly the food was only just OK, and the service rather impersonal. C'est la vie. Breakfast the next morning was nice (nothing could ever touch Marie Chantal's spread in Provence...sigh) and we set off for Dijon. Again it was slightly misty/rainy, but we found Dijon on this Sunday morning to be perfectly delightful. You can't do any damage to your pocketbook window shopping on a Sunday 
and there was also a BIG antiques street market that day. More extraordinary pictures The admission to the Palace des Dukes was free that day, so we enjoyed that. We found a pleasant Italian restaurant for lunch (sometimes you need a change of cuisine)and met a charming young couple. The young man was from Canada, and he specialised in teaching handicapped children. The girl was French and she enjoyed an opportunity to speak English. We had a nice lunch and conversation, and left with very good feelings about Dijon. The sun was finally peeking through, so we took a driving tour based on one of our Burgundy travel guides. It was really fun as the roads crossed over and back the canal that those lovely river cruises through Burgundy travel. The lock houses were interesting, and we really loved being on our own time table. We stopped at L'Abbaye le Bussiere, which has amazing grounds and beautiful public buildings. Our last "site" was to be Chateau Chateauneuf -- which is a fairy tale castle that gives you a true feel for what life was probably like for this particular Duke and his family. There was even a toilet just off the "master" bedroom! And of course the towers with sites for guns overlooking the valley lands surrounding the castle.
As we found our way back to Gevrey-Chambertain, we decided to head down the wine road toward Beaune to find some place for dinner. Luck would have it, we found a darling place adjacent to the Aloxe-Corton vineyards. The proprietor was charming and friendly and the menu looked inviting. His dining room was like a pink and white garden. His wife was the chef. We had coq au vin and it was terrific. At the table next to ours was a wine buyer from Australia and his daughter. We had a nice conversation with them and he noted that the coq au vin was perfectly executed! I just thought it was delicious in any case. The name of this place is Les Paulands. As we enjoyed the Aloxe Corton wine we'd had with dinner, we asked which he carried in his "cave" for sale and bought a bottle of that, plus a Gevrey Chambertain (the very one we had with Thanksgiving dinner last week!)
Besides the restaurant, they have several rooms and I wouldn't hesitate to stay there my next trip along the Wine Road.
and there was also a BIG antiques street market that day. More extraordinary pictures The admission to the Palace des Dukes was free that day, so we enjoyed that. We found a pleasant Italian restaurant for lunch (sometimes you need a change of cuisine)and met a charming young couple. The young man was from Canada, and he specialised in teaching handicapped children. The girl was French and she enjoyed an opportunity to speak English. We had a nice lunch and conversation, and left with very good feelings about Dijon. The sun was finally peeking through, so we took a driving tour based on one of our Burgundy travel guides. It was really fun as the roads crossed over and back the canal that those lovely river cruises through Burgundy travel. The lock houses were interesting, and we really loved being on our own time table. We stopped at L'Abbaye le Bussiere, which has amazing grounds and beautiful public buildings. Our last "site" was to be Chateau Chateauneuf -- which is a fairy tale castle that gives you a true feel for what life was probably like for this particular Duke and his family. There was even a toilet just off the "master" bedroom! And of course the towers with sites for guns overlooking the valley lands surrounding the castle. As we found our way back to Gevrey-Chambertain, we decided to head down the wine road toward Beaune to find some place for dinner. Luck would have it, we found a darling place adjacent to the Aloxe-Corton vineyards. The proprietor was charming and friendly and the menu looked inviting. His dining room was like a pink and white garden. His wife was the chef. We had coq au vin and it was terrific. At the table next to ours was a wine buyer from Australia and his daughter. We had a nice conversation with them and he noted that the coq au vin was perfectly executed! I just thought it was delicious in any case. The name of this place is Les Paulands. As we enjoyed the Aloxe Corton wine we'd had with dinner, we asked which he carried in his "cave" for sale and bought a bottle of that, plus a Gevrey Chambertain (the very one we had with Thanksgiving dinner last week!)
Besides the restaurant, they have several rooms and I wouldn't hesitate to stay there my next trip along the Wine Road.
Dec 3rd, 2003, 06:46 PM
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I'm glad y'all enjoyed it I guess I should end it all with the drive to Paris where we turned in our car at Gare de Lyon. Switching from our regional-level Michelin maps to the very detailed Paris map (on a much different scale) was a challenge to my navigating skills, but we really didn't make any major mistakes. Hertz neglected to give us instructions as to where they were located, so we found a public parking area and went into the station to find out exactly where they were. And although we thought we'd gotten everything out of the car, we did leave behind the (copies of) DVDs we'd brought for musical entertainment. Hopefully some lowly paid Hertz employee is enjoying my Lyle Lovett, Diana Krall, Beres Hammond, Miles Davis and some various R&B oldies.
We spent our last 3 nights in the Marais and revisited favorite haunts of Paris before returning home. This was a great trip and I highly encourage anyone to strike out into the rest of the country. You obviously can't see it all in one trip, and you're sure to find places to which you'll want to return.
I guess I should end it all with the drive to Paris where we turned in our car at Gare de Lyon. Switching from our regional-level Michelin maps to the very detailed Paris map (on a much different scale) was a challenge to my navigating skills, but we really didn't make any major mistakes. Hertz neglected to give us instructions as to where they were located, so we found a public parking area and went into the station to find out exactly where they were. And although we thought we'd gotten everything out of the car, we did leave behind the (copies of) DVDs we'd brought for musical entertainment. Hopefully some lowly paid Hertz employee is enjoying my Lyle Lovett, Diana Krall, Beres Hammond, Miles Davis and some various R&B oldies. We spent our last 3 nights in the Marais and revisited favorite haunts of Paris before returning home. This was a great trip and I highly encourage anyone to strike out into the rest of the country. You obviously can't see it all in one trip, and you're sure to find places to which you'll want to return.
Dec 4th, 2003, 07:42 AM
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Neat report. It's funny, because, although French myself, I didn't know Lyon very well and spent the Toussaint week-end there at... Hôtel des Artistes! Charming location and great city. BTW, when you mentioned the underground parking lot, was it the one on place des Célestins, decorated by Buren (of Palais Royal columns fame) ? It's quite stunning how the Lyonnais turned half a dozens boring parking lots into works of contemporary art.
Dec 4th, 2003, 04:59 PM
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I have absolutely loved your report! I'm in the process of trying to plan for a similar trip in May - but won't go to as many places as you did. I'll be solo, and don't want to drive so much. Haven't been to Provence or Dorgogne yet, and am trying to decide which for this next trip. Your descriptions of both areas were great - I'm dying to do both. Thanks for the great report! (I've been trying to post this for the past week - this is the first night I've been able to get through).
Jan 4th, 2004, 10:55 AM
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To uhoh and/or wren:
My wife and I enjoyed uhoh's reports very much, and I hope you see this and are able to reply before we have to make a decision. We are planning to be in Provence for 4 nights (1st time) in the first half of March, ending a trip that includes Barcelona and the Costa Brava. We are in touch with Marie and are inclined to book Presbytere St Thomas, based largely on your recommendation. We are looking for a pretty laid back 4 days and nights, exploring 2 or 3 towns per day (and probably eating at some of the places you wrote about).
Our 2 questions are (1) will it be a problem staying there if neither of us speaks any French (wife is fluent in Spanish, and we are learning Italian but have a long way to go), and (2) is it relatively easy to find (we'll have a car)?
Thanks very much for your views.
My wife and I enjoyed uhoh's reports very much, and I hope you see this and are able to reply before we have to make a decision. We are planning to be in Provence for 4 nights (1st time) in the first half of March, ending a trip that includes Barcelona and the Costa Brava. We are in touch with Marie and are inclined to book Presbytere St Thomas, based largely on your recommendation. We are looking for a pretty laid back 4 days and nights, exploring 2 or 3 towns per day (and probably eating at some of the places you wrote about).
Our 2 questions are (1) will it be a problem staying there if neither of us speaks any French (wife is fluent in Spanish, and we are learning Italian but have a long way to go), and (2) is it relatively easy to find (we'll have a car)?
Thanks very much for your views.
Jan 4th, 2004, 11:38 AM
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jd, Madame does mainly speak French, very little English. I was able to speak enough broken French to communicate with her. My husband speaks absolutely none. I have no idea if she speaks Spanish, but I would not be surprised at all if she did. I hate to see you pass up this wonderful little place because of a language problem. I am sure Mme. Chantal has to deal with people who do not speak French all the time.
As far as finding the place, we really had no problem at all. The first time we went there of course we had to look very carefully. There are so many wonderful towns around, we felt it was a great place to base ourselves. Be sure not to miss the market day...Thursday I think.
Here is the my trip report in case you are interested: http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...wren&fid=2
Wherever you decide, Have a wonderful time...it is truly a beautiful place.
As far as finding the place, we really had no problem at all. The first time we went there of course we had to look very carefully. There are so many wonderful towns around, we felt it was a great place to base ourselves. Be sure not to miss the market day...Thursday I think.
Here is the my trip report in case you are interested: http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...wren&fid=2
Wherever you decide, Have a wonderful time...it is truly a beautiful place.
Jan 4th, 2004, 02:04 PM
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Thank you for responding, wren. I think we'll go for it; we're pretty flexible, and I know we can communicate on some level. It usually helps if we can ask the host(ess) a few questions about dining, directions, etc., but I think we'll manage.
I scanned your trip report and will read it in full later. I'll keep in mind the idea about pizza for our next anniversary, but unfortunately we won't be in France then.
I scanned your trip report and will read it in full later. I'll keep in mind the idea about pizza for our next anniversary, but unfortunately we won't be in France then.
Jan 4th, 2004, 02:57 PM
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uhoh, what wonderful report! I understand why you did not write it immediately upon your return. It takes time to reflect and to write such a thoughtful piece. I especially enjoyed the parts about the Dordogne.
And did I mention that I still have not written about my own trip last July?
Every time I sit down to write it, I get lost in my own fog of memories.
Thanks!
And did I mention that I still have not written about my own trip last July?
Every time I sit down to write it, I get lost in my own fog of memories. Thanks!
Jan 4th, 2004, 05:12 PM
#33
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Glad to see people are still enjoying this! And also happy to see someone else headed for that wonderful B&B. Wren is right, it was pretty easy to find, just following the instructions Here is a website: http://www.avignon-et-provence.com/b.../gb/index.html
Jan 6th, 2004, 07:41 AM
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We have booked a room for 4 nights in Provence in March at Presbytere St Thomas (using our daughter as translator). Neither of us is great at writing up our trips, but we'll try to post something when we return. If this B&B is as it is described here, I'll be very happy to add my endorsement and comments.
Jan 6th, 2004, 11:56 AM
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We paid 68 euros last July. I can tell you that everything was easy to get to. We had no problem seeing several towns a day. One day we went north, one day west, etc. We went to Avignon, Arles, Gordes, Les Baux, just to name a few. I think basing yourself here makes seeing several areas so much easier than staying in a big town.
Jan 6th, 2004, 01:25 PM
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JoeG: Our rate in the first half of March is 65 euros per night, which includes breakfast.
mystar: We also don't plan to go to Aix, but we picked this spot because of the recommendations here. St. Remy seemed to be a great location for exploring in all directions, and this is just a few miles away.
wren: thanks again.
mystar: We also don't plan to go to Aix, but we picked this spot because of the recommendations here. St. Remy seemed to be a great location for exploring in all directions, and this is just a few miles away.
wren: thanks again.
