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Old Jan 28th, 2006, 01:42 PM
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Calville---you mentioned an interest in mountain hotels (Berghotels), and may have been discouraged by Cicerone's answer about the food and dorm accomodations. Actually, Cicerone is describing an alpine hut, for climbers. The Swiss Berghotels, while rustic, are quite different, and wonderful. There is a whole book about them for those who might be interested: Switzerland's Mountain Inns, by Marcia and Phil Lieberman.

If you want to stay in one, I would suggest Hotel Oeschinensee, which is above the town of Kandersteg, mentioned by someone earlier. You will pass right through Kandersteg if you take the Simplon Pass route into Italy. The Hotel Oeschinsee is on the "upscale" side of Berghotels---the rooms are simple and rustic, but the bathrooms down the hall are large, clean and modern, and there is plenty of hot water in the showers. The hosts, David and Suzanne Wandfluh, are very gracious. The hotel and a large organic farm have been in David's family for hundreds of years. They serve fresh organic food from the farm in the restaurant--- last summer's dinner menu had a choice of lamb, beef, chicken, trout, and a vegetarian plate, "Vrenli's Garden". They also have very nice salads, straight from the garden. And a great wine list. You can look at the menu online from www.oeschinensee.ch.

In the evening the young cows (springing heifers, not bred yet) come in and graze on the lawn in front of the hotel. We have lots of photos of them; you can sometimes pet them if you want (although the young ones are more skittish than the older milk cows you will find along many hiking trails). The lake itself is so beautiful it is considered a Swiss national treasure---high cliffs on one side, and rolling green meadow and forest on the other. The one thing you won't experience there, however, is other farmers dropping in for the evening---it's pretty isolated. However, the driver of the horse-drawn coach dines there, and is fun to talk to if you speak any Swiss German. Dinner is early, because the staff departs for the eveining, but there is a lounge where overnight guests can sit and share a bottle of wine, etc. after dinner.

You cannot drive there--you have to walk up (a 2 km, 1600 foot climb from the town), or take the chairlift. Although we have lugged our bags up there, because we stay 3 nights, a much better plan is to take only what you need for one night, and leave the suitcases in your car at the train station.

A double room last summer was CHF 160, including breakfast.
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Old Jan 28th, 2006, 03:34 PM
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The only activity I can contribute re the Gstaad area is a visit to Chateau d'Oex to walk up through the little wild-flower rock garden to the church, have a raclette lunch and watch a delightful gentleman demonstrate how he makes his own cheese (so sorry that I can't remember the name of the little restaurant, but it has lots of windows, some clue, yes?), and best of the best, visit the Musee du Vieux Pays-d'Enhaut to see their collection of furniture and folk art. (You do have to be interested in that sort of thing, though.) I fell in love with the large papercut masterpieces there and have since purchased a wonderful book about the work of Johann-Jakob Hauswirth and Louis-David Saugy. Actually, my visit to Chateau d'Oex was while staying in Rivaz, one of the Lavaux villages.

We're enjoying the heck out of your planning process. You make our day! J.
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Old Jan 29th, 2006, 08:54 AM
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calville,

regarding Gstaad activities: the Rellerli mountain has a gondola and a very nice tobogganing run. Another idea is a horse-drawn carriage ride. There are some picturesque villages in the surroundings of Gstaad - Saanen, Lauenen e.g., both with beautiful churches (frescos!).

I second jmw's recommendation of the folk art museum in Chateau-d'Oex - the papercutting works are amazing.

Scuol doesn't have 'hot' springs - they are actually 'mineral' springs - cold water. There are about 20-something of those springs in the surrounding of Scuol - each contains different minerals, only a few of those are in use. Guided walking tours are offered to the springs. (They are not very impressive just to watch, though.) 4 or 5 fountains on small squares in Scuol provide water from the mineral springs. The mineral water is also used for the large spa complex called "Bogn Engiadina". Ticket for 2.5 hours costs 25 Sfr. and you can use several indoor/outdoor pools (heated), jacuzzis, 'waterfalls', sauna, steam baths etc. A very special treat is the Irish-Roman bath, which costs more - this includes massages, alternating hot and cold baths etc.

A dream 14 night itinerary? Mine is probably much different from yours - I have seen a lot of Switzerland and would visit some remote places off the beaten path. Hm, I think I would not pick more than 4 destinations (I hate packing/unpacking). It would be nice to pay a visit to each of the four regions (language/culture wise) - the Engadin (Sils?) for Rumansch, Bernese Oberland (Mürren?) for Swiss-German, Lake Geneva (Vevey-Montreux) for French and Ticino (Locarno) for Italian.

A dream itinerary for *me* would be much longer than only 14 days - I could spend a week in each valley in the Swiss Alps and would not get bored. And I would love to explore the charming towns and villages in the "Mittelland" - between Lake Geneva and Lake Konstanz, from Basel to the Alps. One day I'll have more time (hopefully) ...
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Old Jan 29th, 2006, 02:54 PM
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Wow! Thanks so much everyone for all the replies and additional info.
So much great help I'll reply in stages.

Swandav- thanks for the hiking links from the Gstaad tourism site- somehow they escaped me. Gstaad seems like a perfect spot for relaxing and a few leisurely sidetrips.
If we go to Gstaad we'd be arriving a few days before you- I think the only day we'd overlap is June 21. How would I find you? Ask for "Ms. Swandav" at the front desk of the Steigenberger
or is it "Mr. Swandav"? I'm often not sure of gender on this board...
The Steigenberger is still one of our top contenders in Gstaad. I'm also considering the Hornberg which is part of the "Silence" hotel chain- I've had good luck with them in the past.
Do you know of anyone who has stayed there?
The Hornberg has been listed in all the past editions of "Europe's Wonderful Little Hotels and Inns" which evolved into the Good Hotel Guide. I'm not sure about the "house party atmosphere" though since I tend to dislike B & Bs. Also, the guests looked very young (20s- 30s?) in some photos. We'd be huffing and puffing and bringing up the rear on their grill-out/campfire nights up in the mtns if they involve hiking.

In my internet research I disovered Switzerland is the location for many Bollywood movies which explains the preponderance (?) of Indian tourists. This Indian magazine:

http://www.outlooktraveller.com/asps...291&page=5

has an interesting article on Vevey/Montreux.
They recommend the Hotel Kruger or Hotel de l'Etoile. I saw the Kruger's website and I'm in agreement with you about flowery wallpaper. Do you know anything about either hotel or the Clarens area?
I think the Eden Au Lac in Montreux which you suggested sounds fine for a few nights. Do they have powerful a/c in case we encounter a heatwave?
Thank you Swandav!
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Old Jan 29th, 2006, 09:59 PM
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Ascona: We always stay at a time share condo called Hapimag. Excellent apartments and a wonderful resort. It's located between the town and the river, which is called the delta area.

There are some beautiful hotels located in town, next to the promenade. One hotel that gets great reviews is called the Castello Seeschloss.

If you rent a car, my hot insider tip is to go to Bavona valley, located in the Maggia valley. Gorgeous tiny stone villages nestled next to the road, surrounded by green grass and trees. Off the beaten path and no tourists! We didn't take the cable car at the end of the valley so I don't know what it's like at the top of the mountain.

Another insider tip is to go to Bosco Gurin, also located in the Maggia valley. You drive up winding roads, past small villages glued to the steep sides of the valley, till you get to the end: a German speaking wood-built town. You can take the bus there but be aware of the bus schedule. They don't drive too often.
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Old Jan 30th, 2006, 04:54 AM
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Hi again,

Yes, I know Clarens well; I've stayed at the Royal Plaza and the Ermitage once each -- both are in Clarens. I love the lakeside cafe of the Royal Plaza and usually hit it at least once during any trip there. The Clarens area is very nice -- quiet and calm, unlike the main area around the Forum/Casino. I just personaly prefer the area around Territet-Veytaux (where the Golf Hotel is) or even Villeneuve. No reason for that preference really!

If you want to get together on 21 June, e-mail me swandav2000 at yahoo.com, and we can arrange a place to meet. If you're not staying at the Steigenberger, getting to Saanen may be difficult -- we can meet in Gstaad. I'll be coming from Brig so probably won't be there until after lunch.

Good luck in your further planning!

s
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Old Jan 30th, 2006, 08:12 AM
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Schuler- thanks so so much for the hot tip. The Maggia Valley looks fabulous- I can't wait to check it out.

Ascona/Locarno must be very popular because most of the hotels that got good reviews and have a/c are already booked up! Even if I switch dates and we begin our trip in the South, there are still no vacancies.
Castello del Sole may have openings at 710CHF per night!!
Lugano, on the other hand, seems to have lots of openings.

An old article in the NY Times referred to Brissago and Ascona as being "less polluted" than Lugano and Locarno. It wasn't clear to me if just the water is polluted- many residents have installed swimming pools or if the article was talking about air quality. Is Lugano smoggy? Will we be able to see from the tops of the peaks on a sunny day?

Swandav-thanks again- as usual you are a gold mine of info. I've printed out your trip advisor recommendations on wineries near Lac Leman.
I found a cute sounding budget hotel in "downtown" Vevey called the Negociants. Perhaps it's the bakery next door that appeals to me
I still to hope to hear from Cicerone on Vevey hotels. The other top rated Vevey Hotel on tripadvisor is Trois Couronnes. I wouldn't mind economizing at least once since it looks like we're going to be spending a fortune in Lugano right after staying at the 5 star Waldhaus in Sils-Maria.
I'm sure Negociant doesn't have a/c and the rooms are probably tiny. How hot does it typically get at the end of June?
Michelin lists lots of hotels in Vevey but I only see a few reviews on tripadvisor.
Are you familiar with Hotel de l'Etoile that the Indian travel magazine liked?
I take it you would still prefer Hotel Eden Au Lac in Montreux over most hotels in Vevey.

Thanks again for all your great help!
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Old Jan 30th, 2006, 09:00 AM
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I've seen Castello del Sole. It's right across from the street from our condo. It's certainly beautiful but not Sfr. 710.-- beautiful.

Why don't you check out Ronco? It's farther south of Ascona and there are hotels right on the lake.

When I compare Lugano to Locarno, Lugano is more overbuilt. Locarno, unfortunately, is becoming a bit like that too.
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Old Jan 30th, 2006, 12:23 PM
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Hi calville,

A friend of mine stayed at the Negociants and recommends it, and I usually recommend it for people who want to stay in Vevey. So your instincts are good! I'm sure no ac.

After two stays at the Eden, I don't think I'd stay there again -- too many other choices (it's a great intro for the area though!). I'm pretty sure it has ac but am not positive.

I think the Kruger has closed?? At least I think its website is/has been down. Haven't checked it lately.

I think, if I wanted to stay in Vevey, I would probably go to the Best Western Hotel du Lac in La Tour-de-Peilz. I haven't been inside it, and I've heard it's just a business hotel, but I love the location. La Tour-de-Peilz is a suburb of Vevey, right on the lake, on the way to Montreux. Website at: www.bestwestern.ch/dulacvevey/eng/index.htm

Hey, I still think you're over-thinking this too much. You seem to come back every few days with 4-5 questions, no matter how we respond. I think you'll be **very** happy with wherever you go in Switzerland -- it's all good. I think you need to simply decide, then leave it alone!!

You'll have a great time!

s
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Old Jan 30th, 2006, 01:08 PM
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Hi again,

According to this website (http://www.worldhotels.com/switzerla...ms_zjpede.html), the Eden Palace au Lac has air conditioning. The Best Western in Vevey does not.

Let us know what you end up doing!

s
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Old Jan 30th, 2006, 01:49 PM
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LOL Swandav- thanks for the additional info and you're right I'm probably going overboard in my research. My husband always complains about how many opinions I like to solicit.
One thing that has tripped me up is the other couple who are flying into Geneva at roughly the same time, have now announced that they are concerned about my plans to drive directly to Gstaad. Their concern is missing luggage or delayed flights and wonder if it would be more relaxing to spend at least one night in or near Geneva (or Zurich).
They are also finding fault with my rural, out of the way plans and think having a day or two in a city might be nice.
That's why I started looking at Montreux/Vevey in earnest and am now considering 5 different overnight locations rather than 4.
I probably could've decided a few wks ago if it was just us.
They are also suggesting starting off in Lugano in case we have initial flight trouble but I want to hit the Engadine at wildflower prime time.
Only a few more days of hotel and location rumination I promise.
I've got lots of excellent hotel choices for Gstaad but none for Geneva and marginal ones for Montreux/Vevey.

Enzian- From your description and my books, Kandersteg/Oeschinensee sounds fabulous. I haven't seen many postings about it here on fodors. How does it compare with Gstaad?
Swandav might kill me if I change my mind again

JMW- thanks so much for the info about Chateau d'Oex and the museum. I looked to see if Robert Kahn, the author of a series called City Secrets, had a Swiss book. One of the highlights of our trip to N Italy was not only stops at the well known Palladio villas but also unusual places I learned about from Kahn's book-e.g. architect Scarpa's addition to the Canova gallery in Possagno and his last work, a family tomb near Asolo. So I really appreciate your sharing suggestions and Schuler's "hot tips."

Ingo- thanks for all the great info about the Scuol baths. Are they clothing optional?
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Old Jan 30th, 2006, 05:42 PM
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Don't change your mind! I'm sure Kandersteg is nothing like Gstaad. It's small town in a lovely valley, mainly known as the home of international scouting. The town and trails are filled with boyscouts and girl guides. We go there for serious hiking, and a little tennis on clay courts. I suggested it to you because you expressed an interest in a Berghotel, and the one at Oeschinensee would be an easy one to get to, for a night or even two.
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Old Feb 1st, 2006, 12:13 PM
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Schuler- thanks for suggesting Ronco. I'm waiting to hear back from Hotel La Rocca since they have a/c. It looks beautiful from the website.
The jazz festival is going on during the time we'll be there so many hotels are full.
Castello Seeschloss doesn't have any openings. Eden Au Lac sounded reasonably priced at US$432-470 considering the lowly Park Hotel Delta wanted almost as much ($400).
I found a real bargain at Cannero Riviera, IT- only $168 but it looks like it may be a little far off the beaten path and the town is tiny- only 1,000 inhabitants.
In Lugano the rooms at Grand Hotel Villa Castagnola run US $368-415. Grand Hotel Eden in Lugano is $324-397.
Air conditioned Switzerland ain't cheap!!
Most Fodorites don't seem thrilled with Lugano. What about Cannero Riviera?
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Old Feb 1st, 2006, 12:30 PM
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Hi Calville,

I've been to Cannero before. It's a beautiful tiny town that clings to the edge of the lake (there is a Hapimag condo resort there too.) The ambience is so Italian and sitting at one of the lakeside cafes is pure heaven. However, it's on a mountain side so everything goes up or down. There's not much to do in town but to drink coffee and enjoy the beauty of the lake. You are definately off the beaten path. Personally, I would prefer Cannobio. It's flatter and there's more to do. Have you looked there yet?

Ronco might be a better choice for you than Ascona if you are staying there during the jazz festival. I've heard it can get rather loud in the evenings in town so you might get the better night's sleep.

Have you looked at any ** star hotels yet? I've visited Hotel Arcadia in Ascona, which is not too far from town. The restaurant looks nice and the meals are reasonable. I didn't see what the rooms look like but I liked the atmosphere of the place. It's not big nor luxurious but cozy and reasonable.
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Old Feb 1st, 2006, 12:35 PM
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Hi calville,

Just a quick note -- the GHV Castagnola doesn't have air conditioning, or at least it didn't when I was there in May 2000. And I needed it. Badly. My room had a huge ceiling fan, and I slept with the windows open (which was an issue because the rooms were so crammed close to one another that anyone could have easily stepped from one terrace to another). Yes, I was shocked, for that price and for a five-star.

I hope they're renovated.

Good luck in your search.

s
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Old Feb 1st, 2006, 12:42 PM
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Oops, Arcadia doesn't have air conditioning.

It's hard to find that here.
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Old Feb 1st, 2006, 02:21 PM
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Swandav- thanks for the warning about the Castagnola. I'll call them tomorrow to check on it. According to the Michelin Guide 2005 they have a/c in the rooms. Maybe only some rooms have it- that is the case at Castello-Seeschloss.
I got turned off to Lake Como by reading tripadvisor posts about 5 star hotels that claimed they had a/c but told their guests it "hasn't been turned on yet for the season" !!

Schuler- thanks for the warning about noise- excellent point. Do you know if the Eden Roc is set off by itself? Even if we find a more secluded hotel I wonder if the town and restaurants will be too crowded in Ascona.
Another option might be to start our trip at the Lakes.
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Old Feb 1st, 2006, 02:48 PM
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Swandav-Grand Hotel Eden has an unattractive, 70s facade but the interiors look great and I like the way it is only mins from the boats.

Hotel Castagnola sounds like a great old dowager but I was told the boats are 15-20 mins away.

Are you familar with Grand Hotel Eden? Have you ever stayed on Lake Maggiore? Do you prefer Maggiore over Lugano?

If I'm remembering correctly Ingo is the only one who seems to like Lugano.

Schuler thanks for describing Cannero- helps me with our decision.
According to Michelin Italia 2005 only the Hotel Cannobio has a/c and people on tripadvisor didn't like it.
The Cannobio market on Sundays sounds like a fun excursion though. I've heard Luino has a market on Wed.
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Old Feb 1st, 2006, 10:06 PM
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Hi Calville,

Lugano is a small city. It has a very nice center to it that is car-free. There's a hustle/bustle feel to it but walking along the lake is beautiful with its palm trees, vegetation and parks.

Ingo has mentioned both Gandria and Morcote. Both are beautiful. You can walk to Gandria and take the ferry back. Stop off at the smuggler's museum on the way. You can also take the tram up the local mountain (can't remember the name). Nice view on top.

If the only hotel you can find with a/c is in Lugano, I'd take it.

If you are using Lugano as base for day trips, it's fine.

If you are looking for a beautiful, small town that's not overrun, Ascona is it. If you are there during the jazz festival, it will be overrun too.
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Old Feb 2nd, 2006, 03:24 AM
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Hi There,

I just stayed in Lugano a few days -- I didn't care for it at all. It was too much of a city for my taste. The lakeside promenade was bordered by a major, busy, noisy, smelly street, and it left me longing for my calm and quiet promenade at Montreux, so I went there!

I liked Locarno a lot more than Lugano. It's smaller and quieter but not as remote as Ascona (which I haven't seen yet) because it has a train station.

It's tough to find a/c.

Good luck!

s
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