I went to Berlin this weekend for a whistle-stop tour. This review isn't meant to be extensive as I only managed 2 days but I will be going back, sooner rather than later. What a fantastic city it is!! As a child of the cold war and going with my partner who had spent a lot of time there with a previous girlfriend, I had some reservations. Also, I had done lots of research and a frequent complaint is that Berlin is 'ugly' or 'depressing'. So, I took loads of prejudices with me and I have to admit, I have been proved wrong.

I stayed at the Intercontinental in 'west' Berlin (stayed there for the points). That meant that I spent most of the time travelling out East, as that is where the action is. On Friday night, we had a very mediocre meal somewhere nearby as we were too tired (arrived late) to venture far from the hotel. Note to self: make sure to have somewhere to go for dinner on the first night - you are just getting your bearings and it can be a confusing time. Oh well. We needed to get an early night as we were up early to do the Third Reich tour with Berlin Walks. Met at 10am outside Zoo station, very conveniently located near our hotel. The tour took us straight on the U-Bahn and we alighted at Mohrenstrasse station (this is the only station fitted out with red marble and is very unique. There IS a reason for it but I'm not telling you!). For 3 hours, our guide, Per, told us all about Hitler's rise to power and we were able to see only a couple of the original Nazi buildings left standing. A Chinese restaurant now stands on the site of his Chancellery. The imposing Air Ministry building has a colourful and rather beautiful Communist mural on the outside. You are able to stand and contemplate this terrible past, on a windswept corner, whilst also looking at the bullet holes and shrapnel marks still remaining. A short stroll away had us standing in the Topography of Terror - Berlin's sobering attempt to address its Nazi past. It is free, only in German but English language headphones are provided. It is well worth a visit, especially because of its location: the secret headquarters of the Nazi police, a place where people were tortured. There isn't much left of the building, thankfully, as 80-90% of Berlin was destroyed in the air bombing With this exhibit you are able to better understand and confront this terrible time. I found myself feeling rather alone in the cooling fall wind. It is too much to take in. Right next to the Topography of Terror is a largish chunck of The Wall still standing. I found it all rather overwhelming. Our tour ended on the sight of Hitler's bunker, in the shadow of some rather interesting apartment buildings built by the communists for their privileged, only a stone's throw from the Reichstag and Potsdamer Platz. Per told us that Katerina Witt kept an apartment there. There is nothing left of his bunker and Per handled the story with sensitivity. We were all silent as he told the tale.
The tour ended and we opted to head out to the alternative Prenzlauer Berg for a coffee stop and lunch. Here you can see beautiful apartment buildings and squares and where street life is active but sedate. We had our lunch whilst watching families strolling, people meeting & greeting. We made our way back into the center via Alexanderplatz. What an interesting place that is!! The TV tower reminded me of the CN Tower in Toronto and the architecture and lights encapsulate a piece of history in Berlin which I hope they never destroy. It should be preserved. I'm sure that many would find it depressing but I found it curiously exciting. We stood there for about 15 minutes just taking it in.
After 'Alex', we returned to the hotel as tonight was Reichstag night. After a quick dip in the newly opened pool/spa, we freshened up and made our way back out East (as there were 4 of us we bought a special group metro pass which allowed us unlimited travel). We found ourselves at Gendarmenmarkt, where we had a beautiful meal at one of the outside restaurants. Patio heaters were provided as there was a minor chill in the air but it was still so nice to be able to eat al fresco! A quick drink at Newton bar across the street (named for the fantastic Helmut Newton, complete with large photos of nude models on the wall). A FABULOUS bar. Loads of candles flickering and the wooden bar itself kind of extends into the street. It had a great atmosphere. We made our way towards the Reichstag via Unter Den Linden. Champs Elysee, 5th Avenue, Unter den Linden...one of the great avenues of the world! Loads and loads of cafés and restaurants and a great place to stroll. We stood and contemplated the Brandenburg Gate, Hotel Adlon, etc. There was a huge football (soccer) in front of the gate which you could go inside. The Germans are gearing up for the World Cup. Whilst crossing the street, I noticed what looked like a submerged rail in the pavement: a marker for the Wall. Wow. Nearby, there is a memorial for those killed for trying to escape. We made our way to the Reichstag only to be told that we were too late by 5 minutes!! It is open until midnight but last entry is at 10.00pm. Oh well, that is something for next time. The building is stunning and I think a good time to visit would be sunset. Berlin does not have many tall buildings so you get a very clear view of the sky.
On Sunday, we made our way out to Hackesches Hof for breakfast (which was fantastic - fruit, cheeses and croissants all beautifully presented). This is a series of buildings with interlinking courtyards, beautifully tiled and decorated, with cafés, bars, shops, etc. I got a lot of lovely pics in the milky morning sunshine. We wandered around various buildings like this in the area, exploring the inner courtyards. One building had, in English and German, the words 'Milk and Honey Taken Far Away' inscribed neatly on the wall. This brought tears to my eyes. The area was very quiet and so atmospheric. Afterwards, we strolled to Museum Island for the Pergamon and Berliner Dom. Berlin has many canals and we missed out on a tour on the water. Oh well, another one for next time! After that, it was time to get back to the hotel and check-out. We caught a cab and drove through the lush Tiergarten with the wonderful Victory column. We had 'Kaffee und Kuchen' in Savignyplatz in the former west Berlin (very leafy, very yuppie but very nice) and I just loved sitting there, breathing the air. Then, it was back to Tegel and then on to London.
So, that's it. What can I say about Berlin after 2 days? Well, it's the capital of Germany but it feels like a small town. Some of it is sophisticated and some of it is gritty, like any great city. It's history is horrendous. You can feel it in the streets and in the people. You can still see the scars on so many of the buildings. But far from being a hopeless place, it is quite the opposite. It has an openness, both in the attitude of its people, the layout of the city, the desire to move ahead, that is enthralling. Dare I say, it is a romantic city. So much of it is charming like Paris or Prague, very much a strolling city. Standing in the shadow of the Hotel Adlon, it was hard to believe that this place had so much colour stripped away until not too long ago. Even though it was a mild weekend in September, there weren't many tourists. I don't think it is on many people's radars yet. I thought I would be met by bad architecture and moody people. I was wrong. I can't wait to go back.

This is so very interesting... my husband had listed Berlin as a place he would like to visit, but I did have some of the same misgivings you described. Thank you for enlightening us...

Travelnut, I think that is the great thing about Berlin. So many preconceptions and yet so many surprises. I was prepared to hate it or be indifferent - now I love it!! Do go, you will enjoy it. There is something for everyone.

AllyPally,

Thanks for your report. It was well written and interesting. I am trying to put together a trip to Berlin and Poland for my son and I in December. (Brrr) I plan on three days in Berlin and was interested in your comments. Do you think the walking tour would interest a 17 year old with a limited knowledge and interest in WWII and the cold war?
Also, did you prefer staying near the Zoo, or would you have rather stayed near Unter den Linden? (I have some points to stay at the Westin Grand Hotel) Any comments would be appreciated.

Thanks AllyPally !
I came across this forum while looking for information about Berlin but never found out too much so any report is certainly well appreciated.

Hi Bird, thanks for your comments. If you are interested in that specific tour in the Third Reich - Berlin Walks do others - then yes, I think he would be interested. At one point, Per (the guide) sat us down and treated us to a history lesson. He explained the rise of Hitler, using real Marks to demonstrate the inflation which he bought in a Berlin market. I don't think you can fail to be interested in what you are shown, even if it is sinister, but with most of it you need to use your imagination. Per carries around a book of photos, for example to show what the Chancellery looked like because when you're looking at a Peking restaurant, it's kind of hard to imagine!! Obviously, the war is not glorified, just put into context. Since you are there for 3 days, you could try out one tour and then maybe do another on either of the following days. I'm a big fan of walking tours as opposed to bus tours. I would have done another Berlin walk if I had the time. What would be really fantastic is to show your son photos of how Berlin used to look. Then, when you are there, you will be startled to see the changes. The area around the Brandenburg gate is so clean you could eat off the pavement. The pavement is so smooth that any rollerblader would be salivating. It has been exquisitely and glamorously done.

As for the hotel, I just looked up the location of the Westin and I would STRONGLY recommend that you take advantage and book there. The location - Mitte - is the best. You will be a stone's throw from all the action. Next time I go to Berlin, I will definitely be staying in Mitte. My stay at the Intercontinental was wonderful and the view from my room was unforgettable: the TV Tower, the Reichstag, Potsdamer Platz all in a row. But I spend all of my time wishing I was on that side of the city. As for your son, I feel that he will really like it there. Berlin has a strong youth culture, it's very informal and I'm positive that he will feel at home. My idiot brother bought a 'DDR' t-shirt from a street market. At the moment, 'Ost-algia' is very big now. If you can catch the film 'Goodbye Lenin' before you go, that will give you some background information on life before and after the Wall fell.

Of course I meant to say 'on the Third Reich'. errrrrr....

I was also recently in Berlin for two days. By the way, Bird, I took another more generic tour offered by Berlin Walks. They come recommended by a few tour guides. That one was also informative and interesting.

The Reichstag Dome is well worth a visit. Supposedly the lines are shortest in the evening. I got there around 9:30 and barely made it.

The museums are also interesting -- I made it to the Pergamon and Gemaldegalerie. I didn't have time for the Egyptian Museum with the famous bust.

I would have tried to take in a concert at the Berlin Philharmonic, which is one of the best orchestras in the world, but since I was there over the summer, there were no concerts to go to.

thank you AllyPally for the report I enjoy it.

I have been to Berlin two times. First was for the Berlin Marathon before the wall was removd. It was my first time out of my own country and I was very young but I have many happy memories of that time.

We went to the east part once by coach and once we walked there through the security gates. Many beautiful buildings and the history of it all.

Three yers ago I returned and I enjoy it all again but not in the mind of a teenager! Many things to see and do. We stayed on the K'damn which was good location.

One thing I did and may be you think of if you go back is take the small train to Orienburger (about 50 minutes) and then walk to Sachenhausen camp. It was important to visit and to understand what it was about. I will never forget the place.

Thank you again,

T.

Thanos, I definitely intend to return and visit the Sachsenhausen camp. I feel that Berlin is a very beautiful and much underrated city but there is no avoiding the past and confronting the ideas that brought about such misery to millions of people. It is a city that is now in my bones and I want to explore all of it!

Ally, I imagine you've been to Munich. Would you mind comparing it to Berlin? Would you have a preference?

Errrrr, I haven't been to Munich and that is a bit of sore point. I had an invitation to go for Oktoberfest this year but we left it too late to buy tickets. Very annoying. Anyway, plans are afoot for a visit to their Christmas Market so hopefully will be able to post a trip report!

I was in Berlin for only 24 hours during a 2 month whirlwind trip of Europe. For me as well, Berlin surprised me. I always wanted to visit the city but thought it going to be grey and big. But its so green! The Tiergarten in the city center is a joy to hang out in. So much to see for the next visit.

I've been to Munich and Berlin and prefer Berlin architecturally because it has not obliterated its destruction with a reconstruction of its past buildings; it is a vibrant mix. I suppose that this is due to its division which left the governmental center largely empty for so many years, allowing for a change in attitude as concerns reconstruction and restoration. But Berlin was already looking forward in the late 50s when it used a central area of West Berlin to have buildings designed by a variety of famous architects.

For those interested in do-it-yourself walks, I highly recommend BerlinWalks by Peter Fritzsche and Karen Hewitt. It comprises of four walks: Berlin Mitte: The Historic City Center; The Scheunenviertel: The Jewish Quarter; Prenzlauer Berg: A Proletarian District; Kreuzberg: Experiments in Diversity. We used the 1994 edition which was still valid three years ago--although we never used the Mitte chapter where the biggest changes have occured recently.

The Berlin Walks are always interesting - for all ages young and old. Visting the Reichstag is a definite must, I have a lot of great photos taken from the glass vantage points. Also, I would recommend getting out to Charlottenberg in the West (take the # 145 bus from Berlin's Zooglischer station). The beautiful palace (schloss) makes a nice day outing and you can bring a picnic lunch to eat in the gardens after you have toured the palace. The weather starts getting cold very early in Berlin - I am not surprised about the chill in September. I have gone several times in December and froze (my sister lives in Berlin)! I think the best month to visit is May before the tourists and the heat get too much.

Ally - Glad you enjoyed Berlin! My wife and I have been to Berlin 4 times. The first time was when the wall was still up - then it was grey, drab and depressing, but intriguing and exciting. We returned just before the wall came down but access to the East was allowed. The West was becoming a beautiful city, but the East was very shabby and dismal. On our last 2 visits it has been fun to watch the city change. Paris remains Paris, and Rome remains Rome, but Berlin is always new, different, and thus exciting. On your next visit, do visit Sachsenhausen as mentioned in a previous post, as well as Charlottenburg, the Egyptian Museum, and definitely Potsdam. A routine on our trips in the summer is to take the U-Bahn towards Spandau. We get off at the Zitadelle station, spend a few hours touring the fortress and museum, then stroll along the lake front toward the town of Spandau, which is a delightful, typical, small German village. Hard to believe that Berlin is so close.
Bird - on our last visit we stayed at the Westin - it is up to Westin standards and absolutely, ideally located - about 1 block from UdL and about 2 blocks from Gendarmenmarkt.
For those of you who enjoy the greenery of the Tiergarten - it is sobering to remember that it was pure desolation after the war as Berliners cut down all the remaning trees to provide fuel for heat.