Huitres

Hi Monica Richards: I am in West Los Angeles, near Santa Monica. Don't you just LOVE Lucca? The best city in Toscana (IMO).

awbaker: regarding Lucca...I love the old city walls, you can take the kids in a stroller and enjoy the exercise! It took us 40 minutes to walk around the circumfrence - I try to do it every time I am in Lucca now, it's our tradition. She also likes to chase the pigeons at the San Michele in Foro church (what kid doesn't?!)...but that's another story. For winter travelers, Lucca has a wonderful caroussel that they put out on the Piazza Napoleone during the wintertime. They also have an ice-skating rink there too. With the lights in the trees, the cold, crisp air, and the music all around, it is truly a winter wonderland.

The maxim I live by when traveling with my young one is that she does what I do so she doesn't know any different! That has actually helped cultivate an interest in history, museums, art, etc at her age. I can only hope to build on that interest by exposing her to more and more fascinating things that Europe (Italy specifically) has to offer! IMO, too many parents try to accommodate their kids - who is the boss here? I have an agenda and she comes along. Since I have an avid interest in historical sites, etc she is developing the same (probably doesn't have a choice!) and when it is presented in an exciting way, she gets into it too. (Like I mentioned, Pompeii and Ercolano Scavi were very interesting to her. She still remembers learning last year (age 3) about Mt. Vesuvius and what happened to those 2 towns).

That is not to say that we don't do the typical "kid things" - believe me I have done the zoos, parks, etc in Rome, Berlin, Paris, Marseille, and will continue to do so. Children are surprisingly flexible and I have learned that I go about my day and they adjust. While she normally would take an afternoon nap (back in the States) that is not possible in Europe so she has slept many a time in her stroller as I am pushing her about in a museum or out somewhere. If you can continue about your day as planned, without having to curtail your event(s) that is the most ideal. But of course, kids often have different agendas when it comes to naptime!

Re: other kid things to do outside of Siena.....I have traveled extensively throughout Toscana and also Umbria. We went to Siena, San Gimignano, Pescia, Cortona, etc last year. There are never kid-specific things in small towns, however, finding a park is always a bonus. Also, I have found that there tend to be a lot more kid-related things on the coastline (Il Terrenia near Pisa, Viareggio, etc). We've also gone to Elba. The boat over from Piombino to Portoferraio was fun. While that is not a day trip, it is certainly a fun 2 day get-away. (Kids always seem to like boats!) P.S. The Cinque Terre would be rather far as a day trip, unless you started out early enough in the morning. There are neat things to see in each town so that I why I think you might want to spend more time there than a day trip.

awbaker

Thanks again for more information, Huitres! We went to London when my oldest was 10 months old and I had a similar credo as you. It worked fairly well -- he just napped in the carraige when sleep was needed and I saw most of the sights AND got much of my Christmas shopping accomplished. But we have not traveled overseas WITH THE KIDS since then, so I'm a bit nervous. But your extensive travels (and Monica Richards recent trip) have been inspiring.

I will by no means be fluent, but I did start taking an italian language class. But, unfortunately, my son will probably be confused on the playgrounds when he won't understand the other children.

I'm so glad to hear good things about Lucca! It seems like many people here don't like it as much as the other towns, but it seemed good for the kids AND I found a great apartment. Also, I thought it would be close to the coast for daytrips. Do you really think Cinque Terre will be too far for a daytrip from Lucca? I suppose we could do a "mini" vacation from our Lucca apartment.

MonicaRichards

Awbaker, I think it would be good for your son to not be understood on the playground. It took that for my daughter to really "get" what another language is. I'm sure she'll be more sympathetic when we meet kids that don't speak English in our playgrounds. Huitres, I live in the SF Bay Area. We met a single mom with two kids staying in Lucca from Santa Monica too, too funny. Is the carousel in Lucca only up in the winter? It was there for us in Late September/ early October. My kids are ride junkies so that really helped sell them on the town.

Grasshopper

This is my favorite kind of trip report; chock full of things to go on my "to-do" list. What a wonderful friendship in the making with your daughter!

Huitres

I inadvertently left out a restaurant in Sorrento where we ate on our last night in town. It surprisingly good and economically priced, I would have thought it would have been higher given the location in the middle of Sorrento. (SeaUrchin- have you been here before?) It is called 'Mayflower Terrazza' Ristorante-Pizzeria, Piazza A. Lauro, 9 (011.39.081.807.5809) and is located very close to the Circumvesuviana train station (after you exit and go down the hill). I spent 24,50 euros that included a cover charge, bread basket, insalata caprese, ravioli with vegetables and cheese, linguine al pesto, and 1 litre bottle of mineral water. The service was prompt and courteous (they were so nice), they even brought me a tall chilled glass of limoncello on the house following dinner.

LoveItaly

Huitres, brava!!! My parents were like you, and I thank them to this day. So I took my daughter on adventures like you are taking your little daughter. I now I do the same with grandsons.

Children, IMHO, get so much out of seeing the world.

Thank you for your beautiful report. I really enjoyed it.

Huitres

Grazie mille, LoveItaly! Traveling is so fun isn't it? I am sure your grandsons enjoy their trips with you too....(BTW, I want your moniker - I LOVE Italia too!)

Huitres

Hi awbaker: I think you will have lots of little things to do in the Cinque Terre and for that reason, might want to give yourself more time. For example, I checked the trenitalia.com website and chose the random day of July 11, 2005 (since you indicated going next summer)...there are several trains from Lucca to Riomaggiore, the earliest leaving at 8:12 am, arriving at 10:14 am.

Some suggestions for your kids in the Cinque Terre...if you take the train from Lucca into Riomaggiore, you can all walk the Via Dell'More trail from Riomaggiore to Manarola. It is relatively flat and easy to navigate (takes approx. 20 mins to walk).

Once in Manarola, it is fun to walk down to the harbor (turn L as you exit the tunnel from the Via Dell'More), they have a neat mechanism for launching the boats, they are hoisted from high above down to the water below (your boys would be fascinated, my daughter was!). There is also a great gelato shop to the L of the harbor (if facing the water). Around the bend to the right and up on the hill is a neat park for kids. The views overlooking the ocean are breath-taking too!

Vernazza has a nice harbor that the kids could actually swim in because not as rocky as the other 5 Terre beaches. There are cute shops circling the area and make it a beautiful spot (Vernazza is considered the "Portofino of the south&quot.

In Monterosso al mare, your boys would probably like to see "Il Gigante", the statue carved into the rocky hillside, by the beach. If you take the train, you exit the station and walk towards the boardwalk/ocean front. Turn R and walk down Via Fegina, you will see a small park on your L as you are going (fun place to stop with kids too!). There is also a good bakery on the R side, opposite the park (we re-fueled with foccacia bread and some biscotti). Continue walking down to the sand and the huge stone carving into the rock will be up on your R side. Interesting to see. (Note: if your kids want to swim/wade in the water, the beaches are very rocky with lots of pebbles. If you have some water shoes, I would recommend bringing those as it is hard to walk on with bare feet.)

Feasibly, you could spend about 7 hours there total (like from 11-6) and that should give you enough time to see the towns...don't forget to stop for lunch. I recommend "Il Porticciolo" in Manarola (mentioned in my trip report above). My friends own the place and serve the best food, very inexpensive and delicious!


MonicaRichards: I have seen the carrousel up in the Fall and in the winter. It wasn't there in the summer, but maybe they bring it out sporadically. Isn't it wonderful? I, too, have supported all merry-go-rounds in every city we have been to in Europe, interesting that our little ones can spot them no matter where they are. I think my daughter has a honing device for them!

awbaker

I already informed my husband that we need to spend a couple of nights in Cinque Terre -- a mini vacation away from our Lucca apartment. It sounds like it will be a fun respite. I will be sure to try Il Porticciolo -- I've already copied your trip report into my file! Can you be hired out as a tour guide/interpreter/babysitter?!!

Huitres

Hi awbaker: Staying overnight in the CT might be best, that gives you 2 days to explore and relax. There isn't a whole lot to the CT, but it is still a wonderful area nonetheless. I have some lodging options for you if interested. I would absolutely love to be your tour guide! I do tours in the area.....my fiance (and family) lives in the Cinque Terre and have a hotel and restaurant there. I know the area very well and love it there. I go back quite often so could possibly coordinate my schedule next summer around yours so I am there when you are! I am hoping to go back next month for the Christmas/New Year's holidays.

LoveItaly

Huitres, prego!!! I have to tell you that I have seven grandsons, all very wonderful, each of them different in personalities and interest but all such a joy. But I do not have a granddaughter. I read with joy about your special little daughter. I feel like I could imagine her, right down to sitting there, perhaps swinging her legs, enjoying another gelato you bought her. Too precious.

You are a beautiful mother. And obviously you and your daughter are the best of friends. That is my relationship with my daughters.

Anyway dear Huitres, yes I truly love Italy. I will not be back there (or as all my friends in Italy say to me, I will not be home again), until June. I am counting the days.

Thank you again for your wonderful and most interesting report. My heart is with you.

Huitres

Cara LoveItaly:
Grazie mille, tu sei molto simpatico e gentilissima....veramente una donna (e nonna!) molto speciale.

awbaker

You can email me with your accomodation information (AND any additional information!), if you prefer, or list it here. [email protected]

Huitres

Hi awbaker: Which CT town do you want to stay in? When are you interested in going? Also, do you want an apt with kitchen or a regular hotel? All these factor into availability. You could try Hotel Villa Argentina in Riomaggiore (Tel & Fax 011.39.0187.920.213 Website: http://www.emmeti.it/Welcome/Liguria.../index.uk.html), they have lots of apts/villas to rent out throughout the town, as well as rooms in their hotel. I am biased, Riomaggiore is my favorite town, but I like Monterosso as well! There's also a great website that lists all 5 towns and accommodations in the CT(http://www.cinqueterrenet.com/index.htm). When I get more specifics from you, I can help you further if you'd like!

cigalechanta

Huitres, great report, great MOM!!

Huitres

Thanks, cigalechanta and others for all your very kind words....I am encouraged and will continue to post trip reports in the future (not as daunted now!)

awbaker

Thanks, Huitres. What made you decide to stay in Monterosso if Riomaggiore is your favorite town? Are all of the CT beaches rocky or are any of them more sandy? We will be there the last week of August -- since this will be a busy time, would it be better to stay clear of Monterosso or Vernazza?

I'm going to first decide on our apartment/villa rentals in Lucca and south of Siena. Later I will decide which CT town we want to stay in for 2 nights. I think I'll just get 1 or 2 hotel rooms there, rather than an apartment. I'll post on this thread in the future (if you don't mind) if I have more accomodation questions.

We have also decided to extend our trip to include 2 nights in Rome at the beginning of the trip. After reading your report & Grinisa's Rome trip report from last year, I think it would be fun for the boys.

LoveItaly

Cara Hitres, me onori con il duo commento.

Auguro a te e la dua famiglia un felice giorno del ringraziamento.

Un grande abbraccio alla tua piccola bambina.

Huitres

awbaker: The decision to stay in Monterosso rather than Riomaggiore was a personal one because of me and my fiance (sort of were having a difficult "patch" per se); however, I ended up going and staying a few days in Riomaggiore with him and his family at the tail end of my CT stay (not really elaborated on in report). Anyway, Monterosso is bigger and IMO, has more things to do there. Riomaggiore doesn't have a park for kids, Monterosso has a couple. Also, Riomaggiore has a small beach, with lots of rocks, rather difficult to access with a child, vs. the beach in Monterosso is huge.

All the CT beaches are mixed sand, pebbly and rocky. Not unbearable, however, but they would be much more comfortable with water shoes on (my daughter said her feet hurt and I didn't have any!)

August will be busy all around Italy, the Cinque Terre notwithstanding. Vernazza is always crowded. I would not stay in Vernazza, but it is a nice town to visit. Riomaggiore's Villa Argentina has double rooms, you could ask for another bed to be brought in for your boys. They have rooms with seaview as well. If not, as I mentioned, they have various size apts around town that could accommodate you. Viviana speaks English there and usually takes care of the emails, so when you know your specifics, you could email them with your request(s).

Likewise, if full, Monterosso has lots of hotels (check that website I listed) and IMO, more things to do there. By all means, I would be happy to help you out further when you know your travel specifics.

Rome is wonderful, glad that you have added that onto your trip. The zoo there is fun (rather ordinary, but nice), the Borghese Gardens too. We walked around the Circus Maximus (more like I pushed the stroller). Walking along the Tiber River is a pretty stroll as well. They have boats that go up and down the river, I would have liked to take one (next time!)

JenV

Hi Amy, just noticed you are planning your trip for next year, that is the best way to deal with post trip angst. I started planning almost immediately upon my return and decided to try June/July this time. Will do Positano again (can never get enough) and probably Rome and/or Capri with a girlfriend. It is great that you will bring your kids this time, you will have so much fun! I think Monterroso would be best with kids. It is the biggest of the CT towns and has more options for accomodations/dining/activities. I stayed in Vernazza and thought it was too small and too much like a movie set.
Happy planning. JenV