joannecam

I thought I had posted this yesterday, but re-entry into the real workd after vacation is difficult and I can't find the post today so here it is (maybe again).
Our flight was 3 hours delayed due to bad weather in Houston, but the driver we had arranged to pick us up in Rome and take us to Orvieto was waiting as promised. The train had been another option, but after being awake more than 24 hours, the prospect of taking the train into Rome, changing for Orvieto and then navigating the route from the train station to our hotel seemed unnecessarily brutal. It was a relief to be driven by Giulio ([email protected]) and deposited outside the Hotel Duomo, steps from the amazing duomo with its fabulous Disneyland facade and right next to the best gelato shop in town.

We spent 3 lovely days recovering from jet lag and enjoying this wonderful hilltop town. It was just the right size: large enough to explore slowly over the course of the weekend and small enough to really get to know. We did the underground tour, which was interesting, but a bit long, the city museum which had some remarkable Etruscan art works and the best views of the duomo for photographs, especially in the afternoon, climbed to the top of the tower on Corso Cavour for a wonderful panorama of the city and visited the duomo and Chapel of St. Brizio, all with a 12.5E combination ticket obtained at the tourist office across from the duomo. Our favorite sightseeing morning, however, had not been mentioned on the boards that I had read in advance, or at least I did not read about it and that was a ramble through the “old” part of town or the western half, filled with narrow streets, interesting shops, neighborhoods, and, at the extreme end of town, the most majestic views of the Umbrian countryside. I would return for that alone in a minute.

Of course, being lovers of all things Italian, especially the food, we spent much of our time deciding on which restaurant to try next, and when to have our daily gelato. I have no problem recommending each of these without question. Here’s what we found:
La Palomba, Via Cipriano Manente 16: great pasta lunch served by a friendly staff. We were delighted to see one of the waitresses receive 26 roses which she apparently did every 26th of the month. We tried to return for a dinner two nights later, which we rarely do on vacation as we enjoy trying new places, but it was sold out.
Antico Bucchero, Via de’ Cartari 4: delicious lamb for my husband and equally good duck for me, with a few sides and dessert. Very welcoming people who kindly put up with my horrible attempts at Italian, which everyone in Orvieto did with grace.
LaGrotta, Via Luca Signorelli 5: another wonderful pasta lunch. Good thing we walked a lot.
Le Grotte del Funaro, Via Ripa Serancia 41: We stumbled upon this place in the old part of town, and it was wonderful. The seemingly endless staircase down into this restaurant in a cave like setting below a church led into a lovely, cozy and romantic space. My husband loved his beef, but the suckling pig I had was by far the best pork I have ever eaten.
Dell’ Ancora, via di Piazza del Popolo: Nice outdoor lunch in a pretty garden. Pasta, veal, and my favorite Caprese salad.
I Sette Consoli, Piazza Sant Angelo: This was our splurge meal as this restaurant was described by many as their favorite in Italy. It was a bit tough to find, because it was a single door in the back of a poorly lit piazza off Corso Cavour. We each had the tasting menu at 45E each and had the waiter choose our wine by the course. The total for the wine and 6 courses was 140E. It was elegantly prepared and served and we enjoyed it immensely.

As far as shopping is concerned, if you are at all interested in ceramics, you could spend days looking through all the shops trying to decide what to buy. Don’t miss the shop on the second floor in the piazza duomo to the left if you are facing the facade of the church. The ceramics (and the prices) are breathtaking. Also, there is a wonderful wood working shop on a small alley off Via Duomo called something like the artisan street. He makes wonderful olivewood pieces of all kinds.

We did take one afternoon trip with our new friend Giulio to a local vineyard for a tour and wine tasting of Orvieto Classico and a few reds, and then on to Todi for a quick look around at this lovely town. It was a good way to break up the 3 day visit.

The Hotel Duomo was centrally located, reasonably priced with good-sized, comfortable rooms. The staff was kind and helpful and set up a fine continental breakfast that was included in the room rate. I would definitely recommend this hotel as a nice alternative in Orvieto.

sandi_travelnut

Thanks for the info. Orvieto is one of our planned day trips from Rome in January.

ira

Thanks for sharing, J.

ekscrunchy

Joanne thanks so very much. This report came at the right time for me and you have convinced me to include Orvieto as a day trip from Rome in January. La Palomba was on my list as a potential lunch place and you have moved it up a notch in the competition! Did you notice if there were truffles on the menu recently?

Sandi, I just may see you in Orvieto!

SeaUrchin

Orvieto is one of my favorite towns, thanks for your report. It makes me want to return. I had a favorite restaurant there and I absolutely cannot remember the name.

LucieV

I love Orvieto, too. Stayed at Hotel Duomo last month. Having visited several times over the years, I always "almost" omit Orvieto from our Italy trips -- and the minute I'm there, I kick myself for even thinking such a stupid thought. A special place, the light, the Duomo, everything. Especially in the a.m. and p.m., before & after the daytrippers' descent. Thanks for your post & for "keeping Orvieto alive" here!

Budman

We stayed at Locanda Rosati which was a few miles on the outskirts of Orvieto. Since it was up in the hills, the pictures of Orvieto going during the day and returning in the evening were spectacular.

http://www.locandarosati.orvieto.tr.it/

joannecam

The very first thing we ordered at La Palomba and therefore in Orvieto, Italy, Europe, etc. was truffles. They offered a very distinctive appetizer where bread and oil were brought to the table and truffles were grated over the top of the toasted slices while you watched. It tasted like autumn, the earth and Italy all rolled into one. Truffles turned out to be everywhere. Joanne

ekscrunchy

Joanne, thanks. La Palomba sounds perfect. I see that it is in the center of town and closed on Wednesdays.

I am still waiting to hear, for my own curiosity, why some posters feel that I Setti Consoli is "the best restaurant in Italy." I have read that statement, or a variation of that statement, often but never read a real description of the place other than a list of dishes and a notation that they have handbag chairs for women.

sandi_travelnut

what the heck is a handbag chair?

ekscrunchy

In a few reports here about that place, people mention that the restaurant provides small stools designed for women to place their handbags.

joannecam

Yes, its true, there is a little stool for your handbag brought to you by the waiter at i Sette Consoli, and I embarrassed myself by not having one (I travel light!). The tasting menu was wonderful, the service perfect and the atmosphere was elegant without being at all overembelshed if that is a word. That being said, however, I don't know why people feel it is the best in Italy either, since I have yet to eat at all the restaurants in Italy, although I plan to give it my best try. I am a bit complusive about pre-trip research, but I can honestly say I have never had a bad meal in Italy, and rarely an even average one. Joanne

ekscrunchy

Thanks, Joanne! Here is another question since you are our current expert, having recently returned from Orvieto:

I spent a few days last winter in Montepulciano and at dinner one evening, I met an American woman who was a flight attendant and traveled very often to Italy. She was in Montepulciano for the sole purpose of buying copper from a craftsman in that town. The night I met her, she was planning to drive after dinner from Montepulciano to Orvieto and spend a day there to shop for one specific item at one specific shop which she had visited many times in the past. I cannot remember what she planned to buy in Orvieto but I wish I did as this woman was knowledgeable about crafts in southern Tuscany and Umbria and about shopping in Italy in general. So....a long way of asking you if you shopped for anything in Orvieto and if so, what did you find and what did you buy?.... I realize this is frivolous query but I am still curious and sorry I did not get more info at the time from this very friendly woman...

DRJ

I think ISC is my favorite restaurant in Italy and have said so on this forum before. This after three or four visits in the past several years. But I've not eaten cena there and will correct that in April.

In terms of craftspersons, etc. I certainly suggest a visit to the atelier of Sr. Michalangeli on the main street. He is an inventive woodworker and I first noticed his work at Albergo Rosati a few km. south of Orvieto. And while it broke the travel bank I purchased a work of his that I still smile at every day.

motor_city_girl

I thought the variety and unique dishes they have made it one of our favorites. The service was excellent!

The only thing I would have changed...we didn't get to eat in the garden. But there is always next time!

rosetravels

Thanks Joanne,
We'll be in Rome for a week at Christmas and now we'll spend a day in Orvieto. Truffles...yum!

joannecam

I would second the recommendation of DRJ regarding the olive wood worker on the tiny little alleyway of artisans, I believe off the Via del Duomo (I think we are talking about the same man). He was very talented and very friendly (and, yes, very expensive) and it was a pleasure to see what he accomplished with a hunk of wood. He said to us, while he worked in the shop "Go ahead, touch it, it's just wood".

We looked all over Orvieto for ceramics, hoping that we would find a few places away from the "touristy" center for better prices, but aside from one or two shops, the main collection of stores is really right there near the duomo, and, especially if your time is limited, I would concentrate your efforts there. It is mind boggling going from store to store trying to sort out prices, expertise, and personal desire. The shop I mentioned in my original report is not to be missed (sorry, I never knew the name), but we made the bulk of our purchases from a lovely little lady at a shop called Kyathos on Via del Duomo 74. We were looking to expand our collection of pasta bowls and they had some very unique patterns. Hope you have a great time. Joanne

ekscrunchy

Thanks, DRJ and Joanne. I love the salad and serving bowls made from olive wood. About 6 years ago, I splurged and bought one from a kitchenware shop north of the Duomo in Florence, I am thinking Dino Bartolini or a similar name.. I adore it and use it almost every day. I saw a few examples in Montepulciano last year but even the fairly small salad bowls were more than E. 150...

I will happily seek out Sr. Michelangeli when I visit Orvieto...sounds like this is a terrific day trip from Rome....

AnnMarie_C

Thanks for your trip report, joannecam. We're headed to Italy next month and have Orvieto down for a day trip from Rome. I especially appreciate the tip on shopping for ceramics!

bevmil

Joanne,
You mentioned being picked up by "Giulio" and driven to Orvieto. How much was that, and how long was the drive to Orvieto from the Rome airport?