Bavaria/Christmas 2005
Nov 19th, 2005, 05:14 AM
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Bavaria/Christmas 2005
This is so not like me but...I need serious help in planning my trip last minute 9 day trip!
Four of us are arriving in Munich on 12/21 and plan to travel via car around Bavaria.
So far our plan is to visit Nurnburg/Rothenberg for the Christmas markets on the 21st/22nd and then head down to the Garmisch-Partenkirchen area as a home base. I've spent hours reading through the message boards with amazing stories by Julie Vikmanis (WinterWonderland) and then several postings about how the area lacks charm and perhaps Berchtesgaden, Mittenwald or Seefeld, Austria are a better choice. Any thoughts?
Our plan is to arrive in the Bavarian Alps 12/23 and stay through 12/27. Trying desperately to figure out accomodations but need advice as to where my homebase should be if we:
- Visit Neuschwanstein Castle
- Ski Innsbruck
- Visit Salzberg?
- Visit Mittenwald/and other quaint towns
- Take the cable car up Zugspitze
Lastly and most importantly, is Christmas Eve/Day. I am looking for a magical experience where we can be part of the community. I want to witness the gatherings in the central square, hear the carols and perhaps take a sleigh ride.
Desperate for some advice. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Four of us are arriving in Munich on 12/21 and plan to travel via car around Bavaria.
So far our plan is to visit Nurnburg/Rothenberg for the Christmas markets on the 21st/22nd and then head down to the Garmisch-Partenkirchen area as a home base. I've spent hours reading through the message boards with amazing stories by Julie Vikmanis (WinterWonderland) and then several postings about how the area lacks charm and perhaps Berchtesgaden, Mittenwald or Seefeld, Austria are a better choice. Any thoughts?
Our plan is to arrive in the Bavarian Alps 12/23 and stay through 12/27. Trying desperately to figure out accomodations but need advice as to where my homebase should be if we:
- Visit Neuschwanstein Castle
- Ski Innsbruck
- Visit Salzberg?
- Visit Mittenwald/and other quaint towns
- Take the cable car up Zugspitze
Lastly and most importantly, is Christmas Eve/Day. I am looking for a magical experience where we can be part of the community. I want to witness the gatherings in the central square, hear the carols and perhaps take a sleigh ride.
Desperate for some advice. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Nov 20th, 2005, 03:45 AM
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Eliburns,
Of the areas you listed, Garmisch would be a good base except for the trip to Salzberg. We stayed in Garmisch for 4 nights in '04 and visited the Zugspitz, Innsbruck, Mittenwald, Oberammergau, Linderhof, etc. It was a good base. I believe that Salzburg would be about a 2 1/2 to 3 hour drive each way.
If you really want to see Salzberg, why not do a circle - Rothenberg, Nuremburg, Salzberg, and then end up in Garmisch.
If that's too much, then perhaps save Salzberg for another trip.
Have a great time!
H
Of the areas you listed, Garmisch would be a good base except for the trip to Salzberg. We stayed in Garmisch for 4 nights in '04 and visited the Zugspitz, Innsbruck, Mittenwald, Oberammergau, Linderhof, etc. It was a good base. I believe that Salzburg would be about a 2 1/2 to 3 hour drive each way.
If you really want to see Salzberg, why not do a circle - Rothenberg, Nuremburg, Salzberg, and then end up in Garmisch.
If that's too much, then perhaps save Salzberg for another trip.
Have a great time!
H
Nov 20th, 2005, 04:10 AM
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The problem you will face in popular spots is 2 week minimum requirements and...it's late they may be sold out. Your plan may work..What about Innsbruck as a base ??? If you enjoy skiing that will work another option may be St. Anton.
Nov 20th, 2005, 06:20 AM
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Eliburns, I will give you a quick run down on what we did last Christmas which certainly gave us the special White Christmas we were hoping for. It doesn't cover everything you want to do, but quite a lot of it and perhaps it will give you some pointers.
We flew into Munich and hired a car. From there we drove to Fussen for our first night. There had been a huge dump of snow the night before and everything was absolutely pristine white. After checking into our hotel which was actually about 5km past Fussen on the lake (Apartmenthotel Seespitz) we went to Neuschwanstein. The kids had a ball with all the snow. We didn't actually do a tour inside because we had been before and knew the kids would be rather bored with it. They had a wonderful time playing in the snow, actually more like six year olds rather than 3 teenagers adn the views of the castle were fabulous.
Next morning, after the most spectacular sunrise over the frozen lake which we watched from our balcony, we headed back to Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau for a bit more time there. We then drove up to Rothburg where we had three nights doing the Christmas markets and soaking up the atmosphere of this wonderful town. I'm sure that by now you have the Night Watchman's Tour on your list of things to do there. Stayed at a wonderful B&B, Gastehaus Eberlein.
We travelled back south stopping at Dinkelsbuhl along the way. We fitted in a vist to Linderhof that day as well, which made it a little rushed but as it was now the 23rd I knew it would be shut from the 24th until after we flew out. The tour of Linderhof was very good and even though you can't visit the grotto and the fountains etc are turned off because it is winter it is well worth doing.
From there it was only a short drive to Oberammergau for the next three nights. We stayed at the Parkhotel Sonnenhof with which we were very happy. Our bedroom was quite large with a sitting area, window seats and a lovely view. The jingle of sleigh bells below our window was delighful - the sleigh rides left from directly below. This is not a big international hotel. We appeared to be the only English speaking guests, nearly all the others being German. The staff spoke little English but that didn't worry us at all. The staff did their best to include us including inviting us to a Christmas Eve service within the hotel and even had "St. Nicholas" give our 3 teenagers presents which was quite a scream. Our children were the only teenagers staying, all the other children were under the age of 8,so when St. Nick called out the name of my six foot high son everyone burst into laughter.
So on Christmas Eve, we spent the day visting Ettal Monastey, doing the Zugspitze, attending the service in the evening, followed by an excellent dinner at the hotel (all done traditional German style with the local children coming in to sing carols). We had intended to go to the midnight service at the local church but were too tired by then so fell asleep to the church bells instead.
On Christmas day, after breakfast at the hotel we wandered around the town admiring the buildings and shops in the sparking sun. (Just as an aside we didn't have a drop of rain in the 8 days - it was sunny most of the time)It was absolutely beautiful with the river running through the village and the snow piled high either side. We stopped and played with the baby goats, watched the people heading off to church and generally amused ourselves. For lunch we joined the rest of the locals in the small central square and stood around eating bratwurst sausages and drinking hot mulled wine. It was marvellous. Later on we had coffee and cake at a konditorei that had opened specially. The afternoon was occupied with the kids building a snowman and a sleighride in the pristine countryside.
On the 26th we drove down to Innsruck for the day where we had an excellent time. We didn't attempt to go skiing but did the Christmas markets - still going - and toured the Kaiser's apartments. From there it was back to an hotel at the Munich airport before flying out early the next morning.
From our point of view this was an absolutely magical Christmas, especially coming from hot Australia. I was able to book everything over the internet with the individual hotels (I don't like using middle men - no deposits or prepayments were required) and it all went like a breeze. One of your main problems at this stage might be finding accommodation as we well and truly had our bookings in place by now.
I hope you have a wonderful time however you organize it.
We flew into Munich and hired a car. From there we drove to Fussen for our first night. There had been a huge dump of snow the night before and everything was absolutely pristine white. After checking into our hotel which was actually about 5km past Fussen on the lake (Apartmenthotel Seespitz) we went to Neuschwanstein. The kids had a ball with all the snow. We didn't actually do a tour inside because we had been before and knew the kids would be rather bored with it. They had a wonderful time playing in the snow, actually more like six year olds rather than 3 teenagers adn the views of the castle were fabulous.
Next morning, after the most spectacular sunrise over the frozen lake which we watched from our balcony, we headed back to Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau for a bit more time there. We then drove up to Rothburg where we had three nights doing the Christmas markets and soaking up the atmosphere of this wonderful town. I'm sure that by now you have the Night Watchman's Tour on your list of things to do there. Stayed at a wonderful B&B, Gastehaus Eberlein.
We travelled back south stopping at Dinkelsbuhl along the way. We fitted in a vist to Linderhof that day as well, which made it a little rushed but as it was now the 23rd I knew it would be shut from the 24th until after we flew out. The tour of Linderhof was very good and even though you can't visit the grotto and the fountains etc are turned off because it is winter it is well worth doing.
From there it was only a short drive to Oberammergau for the next three nights. We stayed at the Parkhotel Sonnenhof with which we were very happy. Our bedroom was quite large with a sitting area, window seats and a lovely view. The jingle of sleigh bells below our window was delighful - the sleigh rides left from directly below. This is not a big international hotel. We appeared to be the only English speaking guests, nearly all the others being German. The staff spoke little English but that didn't worry us at all. The staff did their best to include us including inviting us to a Christmas Eve service within the hotel and even had "St. Nicholas" give our 3 teenagers presents which was quite a scream. Our children were the only teenagers staying, all the other children were under the age of 8,so when St. Nick called out the name of my six foot high son everyone burst into laughter.
So on Christmas Eve, we spent the day visting Ettal Monastey, doing the Zugspitze, attending the service in the evening, followed by an excellent dinner at the hotel (all done traditional German style with the local children coming in to sing carols). We had intended to go to the midnight service at the local church but were too tired by then so fell asleep to the church bells instead.
On Christmas day, after breakfast at the hotel we wandered around the town admiring the buildings and shops in the sparking sun. (Just as an aside we didn't have a drop of rain in the 8 days - it was sunny most of the time)It was absolutely beautiful with the river running through the village and the snow piled high either side. We stopped and played with the baby goats, watched the people heading off to church and generally amused ourselves. For lunch we joined the rest of the locals in the small central square and stood around eating bratwurst sausages and drinking hot mulled wine. It was marvellous. Later on we had coffee and cake at a konditorei that had opened specially. The afternoon was occupied with the kids building a snowman and a sleighride in the pristine countryside.
On the 26th we drove down to Innsruck for the day where we had an excellent time. We didn't attempt to go skiing but did the Christmas markets - still going - and toured the Kaiser's apartments. From there it was back to an hotel at the Munich airport before flying out early the next morning.
From our point of view this was an absolutely magical Christmas, especially coming from hot Australia. I was able to book everything over the internet with the individual hotels (I don't like using middle men - no deposits or prepayments were required) and it all went like a breeze. One of your main problems at this stage might be finding accommodation as we well and truly had our bookings in place by now.
I hope you have a wonderful time however you organize it.
Nov 20th, 2005, 06:23 AM
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Note the point on the monestary at Etal - it is a must see and a must do is to try the bluberry liquer made in Etal... I have never found it anywhere else ,,,,it is the best....bring some home for the following years Christmas.
Nov 20th, 2005, 06:26 AM
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I have just noticed that you will have left Bavaria by the 21st so accommodation might not be as hard as I thought. I had assumed you were going to need accommodation over Christmas itself.
Incidentally if you are wondering why we would have headed south to Fussen, then up to Rothenburg and back down south again this was because we had been on an all night flight from Hong Kong arriving at 5am and I didn't want to be driving very far when we were jetlagged and driving on the "wrong" side of the road to boot. I also wanted our first day/night to be special and I was pretty sure that we would have lots of snow there as compared to Rothenburg which was, of course, the case.
Incidentally if you are wondering why we would have headed south to Fussen, then up to Rothenburg and back down south again this was because we had been on an all night flight from Hong Kong arriving at 5am and I didn't want to be driving very far when we were jetlagged and driving on the "wrong" side of the road to boot. I also wanted our first day/night to be special and I was pretty sure that we would have lots of snow there as compared to Rothenburg which was, of course, the case.
Nov 20th, 2005, 06:53 AM
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Shandy - Did you find many restaurants open on Christmas Eve and Day? My biggest concern is getting my troops fed those days. I'm doing almost the same trip you did only we'll be in the Berchtesgaden/Salzburg area for Christmas Eve and Day.
Nov 20th, 2005, 11:32 AM
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Shandy~ Thank you so much for taking the time to write out your itinerary and your wonderful experiences. We're really looking forward to this trip. I think we'll be okay on accommodations over Christmas. I heard back from several small inns in both Mittenwald and Garmisch this morning and Zeus provided me a great inn in Oberammergau. Just need to make a decision at this point.
Vielen Dank!
Vielen Dank!
Nov 20th, 2005, 12:23 PM
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Shandy,
What a great report! Your Christmas in Bayern sounds absolutely wonderful. I've been to all the places you mentioned and have always enjoyed myself, but your experience really sounds special.
Glad you did okay driving on the "wrong" side of the road. I was also driving on the "wrong" side of the road, but in my case in England. I was tired and got confused and hit a dump truck. It worked out okay, but I'm a little leery about driving on the right side of the road now.
What a great report! Your Christmas in Bayern sounds absolutely wonderful. I've been to all the places you mentioned and have always enjoyed myself, but your experience really sounds special.
Glad you did okay driving on the "wrong" side of the road. I was also driving on the "wrong" side of the road, but in my case in England. I was tired and got confused and hit a dump truck. It worked out okay, but I'm a little leery about driving on the right side of the road now.
Nov 20th, 2005, 12:51 PM
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Don't know if this will be of any help to you or not - we loved Garmisch-Partenkirchen. We didn't stay right in town. We stayed at a Renaiisance (sp?)up in the forested hills overlooking a beautiful, small lake with the mountains in the distance. Our view of the lake was spectacular. Our accommodations were wonderful. The staff were extremely gracious. Your trip sounds perfect - only having traveled that route in the summer, I can only imagine how beautiful it is with snow.
Nov 20th, 2005, 02:49 PM
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Zeus, I can't really give you a good answer to this question. For dinner on Christmas Eve and Christmas night we ate at the hotel at which we were staying so didn't investigate other possibilities. From when I made the reservations, it appeared that it was a requirement that you ate dinner at the hotel those two nights as there weren't any separate prices given for not eating there. I assume this was because we were booking over Christmas itself and I was happy to go with it. In fact, after several places I had looked at which had a 7 day minimum stay for the Christmas week this seemed entirely reasonable.
When we wandered around on Christmas Day looking for somewhere to eat lunch we didn't notice any restaurants open, although presumably some of the hotel ones were. But then again, our hotel didn't offer lunch at all on Christmas Day and was one if the bigger hotels in the village. As mentioned, we ended up eating bratwursts in the village square with the locals and we thought that was fantastic. We did come across two konditoreis which were open and they were serving simple meals as well as cakes and hot drinks. They certainly weren't the sort of place you would go for a "celebration" Christmas lunch though.
The dinner at the hotel on Christmas Day, whilst not as "special" as the traditional Christmas Eve dinner was still a step up from what was normally on offer and hence, you really only needed a lighter lunch when you knew you were having a big dinner that night.
In consequence Zeus, it might well be worth your while to do a bit more checking around regarding where you will be eating for Christmas itself. If you are in Salzburg itself, I'm sure there will be a number of places but Bertchesgaden is very small and may be similar to Oberammergau in terms of not much being open. By the way I'm envious of your getting to Salzberg/Bertchesgaden. I think they are both wonderful (especially Bertchesgaden) and would have loved to incorporated in our trip last Christmas but decided it was just pushing the pace a bit too much.
When we wandered around on Christmas Day looking for somewhere to eat lunch we didn't notice any restaurants open, although presumably some of the hotel ones were. But then again, our hotel didn't offer lunch at all on Christmas Day and was one if the bigger hotels in the village. As mentioned, we ended up eating bratwursts in the village square with the locals and we thought that was fantastic. We did come across two konditoreis which were open and they were serving simple meals as well as cakes and hot drinks. They certainly weren't the sort of place you would go for a "celebration" Christmas lunch though.
The dinner at the hotel on Christmas Day, whilst not as "special" as the traditional Christmas Eve dinner was still a step up from what was normally on offer and hence, you really only needed a lighter lunch when you knew you were having a big dinner that night.
In consequence Zeus, it might well be worth your while to do a bit more checking around regarding where you will be eating for Christmas itself. If you are in Salzburg itself, I'm sure there will be a number of places but Bertchesgaden is very small and may be similar to Oberammergau in terms of not much being open. By the way I'm envious of your getting to Salzberg/Bertchesgaden. I think they are both wonderful (especially Bertchesgaden) and would have loved to incorporated in our trip last Christmas but decided it was just pushing the pace a bit too much.
Nov 20th, 2005, 07:21 PM
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The folks in Southern Germany and in Austria usually celebrate Christmas on Christmas even and the 26th and the 27th so you may find a lot of things closed on those days. That might be a good time to get in your skiing.
By car Salzburg is only 60 miles or so from Garmish and you can go through Brechtesgaden and by Ludwig's Herren Chiemsee castle, his copy of Versailles.
Mittenwald is ok but if I had to choose I would substitue Oberammergau which is close to Schlos Linderhoff and the Ettal monastary.
By car Salzburg is only 60 miles or so from Garmish and you can go through Brechtesgaden and by Ludwig's Herren Chiemsee castle, his copy of Versailles.
Mittenwald is ok but if I had to choose I would substitue Oberammergau which is close to Schlos Linderhoff and the Ettal monastary.
Nov 29th, 2005, 06:00 PM
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My wife and I have been traveling to this area of Europe each Christmas for over 10 years. This year we are arriving in Munich on December 22 and leaving December 30. Normally, we stay until January 2 or 3rd but have a family commitment. We typically stay in Munich and go down to the Marienplatz for their market on our first night. We stay at the Renaisance Hotel (Suite w/great buffet breakfast for 99 Euros). The U-bahn is 100 meters from the hotel, and it will quickly and effeciently take you to the Marienplatz. We are staying at the Munich Marriott (just down the block) for 89 Euros...which includes a fantastic buffet breakfast on the 30th. The Marriott and Rennaisance are easily reached from the airport. We base out of Seefeld, Austira. It's a quaint alpine village with lots to do. It does not close down as do most villages on Christmas, Boxing day, etc. There are many day trips available from Seefeld. Igyls, Austria, above Innsbruck has a Christmas parade on the 23rd. It begins at 6:00 PM? On Christmas day you can go on the Olympic bobsled run. It's awesome! You have a driver from the Austrian team and have the option of a "fast" or "safe" ride. Salzburg, Austria, is a great place to spend New Year's Eve day and evening. Hotel Sacher has a great celebration (albeit pricey). The fireworks at midnight off the mountain are very memorable. Nurnburg/Rothenburg markets are about the best. Hotel Crystal in Nurnburg is an affordable hotel, with free parking, good breakfast, and easy directions to use the U-bahn to reach the markets. St. Anton is about a two + hour drive from Seefeld, but it has great apres skiing...and the slopes are great too! Innsbruck, is a big city. The golden Dachl in the old town is impressive, and the market is okay, but we prefer to hit the smaller towns. Garmish (not necessarily partenkirchen) is a great place to hang out during the day to shop and hit the outdoor gluhwein and brats shops. Oberamergau is a fun stop. Linderhof has some great trails for hiking and for cross-country skiing (goulasch soup at the cafe is particularly good!). Neushwanstein is awesome. It should be a definite "must do." Be sure to go behind the castle to the suspension bridge for some of the best views of the castle and the waterfall. Ignore the do not enter the trail signs! Anyway, I'm rambling a lot. My wife and I love this area, and have spent many a Christmas enjoying its charm.
Jan 4th, 2006, 11:34 AM
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Thanks for that report, jd. We're thinking about spending Christmas 2006 in Germany or Austria and are trying to decide on a place (we've visited both countries previously). My goal is a town that's not too jam-packed with tourists but still readily accessible from Munich or Frankfurt, perhaps on one of the lakes near Munich, e.g., Tegernsee. A nearby Christmas market would be nice. We also would want to attend Christmas eve services.
I've been checking a few towns - including Seefeld - and have found that hotels and guesthouses either seem to be sold out already or aren't permitting online booking.
Can any of you experienced holiday travelers give me some tips on finding available accomodations in a lovely town?
I've been checking a few towns - including Seefeld - and have found that hotels and guesthouses either seem to be sold out already or aren't permitting online booking.
Can any of you experienced holiday travelers give me some tips on finding available accomodations in a lovely town?
Jan 4th, 2006, 12:10 PM
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Even though Christmas 2005 is over, you can vicariously relive the season in Bavaria or get ideas for next year by watching the most recent episode of Discover Germany on Deutsch-Welle TV's web site. It's all about Christmas traditions in southern Bavaria with a detour to Innsbruck.
Go to:
http://www.dw-world.de/dw/0,2142,4756,00.html
(it's the video on demand section; click on Discover Germany. The program is 26 minutes, works best with high speed connections)
Go to:
http://www.dw-world.de/dw/0,2142,4756,00.html
(it's the video on demand section; click on Discover Germany. The program is 26 minutes, works best with high speed connections)
Jan 4th, 2006, 02:43 PM
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Oh what wonderful memories of Christmas Markets in my past. I never get tired of reading foderites trips to Bavaria!
Thanks Shandy and jdmckay for putting us back into that magical part of Europe! I have to push the misses to start planning for another Bavarian Christmas for 2006...if the year plays out well for us that is!
OK ELIBURNS we are waiting for the trip report!!
JOHN
Thanks Shandy and jdmckay for putting us back into that magical part of Europe! I have to push the misses to start planning for another Bavarian Christmas for 2006...if the year plays out well for us that is!
OK ELIBURNS we are waiting for the trip report!!
JOHN
