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Basque region/Picos with toddler - Activity and eating recommendations?

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Basque region/Picos with toddler - Activity and eating recommendations?

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Old Jan 18th, 2010, 11:06 AM
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Basque region/Picos with toddler - Activity and eating recommendations?

My husband and I are planning a trip to the Basque region and the Picos de Europa in June. This will be our first trip to Spain and our first overseas trip with our 20-month- old son (a little nervous about this). We will be flying in and out of Madrid (using points so don't think we can fly into Biarritz) and renting a car. My husband and I tend to gravitate toward beach cities (husband surfs) and mountain areas (we both love to hike and bike) so the concentration of our trip will be spent there. Is our itinerary doable? What do you think of our base towns and hotels? Also, any suggestions on dining with a toddler (esp. dinner)? Don't most restaurants open for dinner around 9pm? Is it customary to bring toddlers into tapas/pintxos bars? Any good kid-friendly restaurants that serve regional cuisine? Also, any ideas for activities with a toddler would be appreciated. Thank you in advance for your help and suggestions!
6/5 - Madrid (Westin Palace or NH Prado) -- Arrive sometime in afternoon
6/6 - Madrid
6/7 - Madrid
6/8 - Biarritz (Villa de Goeland) -- Drive to Biarritz; make stop in Pamplona or Burgos?
6/9 - Biarritz
6/10- Biarritz
6/11- Biarritz
*side trips to Jean de Luz? Bayonne?
6/12 - San Sebastian (Maria Cristina or Londres) -- Drive to San Sebastian
6/13 - San Sebastian
6/14 - San Sebastian
6/15 - Arenas de Cabrales (Picos de Europa Hotel) -- Drive to Arenas; make stop in Bilboa to see Guggenheim; make stop in Santillana del Mar? or Santander?
6/16 - Arenas de Cabrales - Hike Cares Gorge
6/17 - Potes (Casa Cayo or Hotel del Oso) -- Drive to Potes; see Santo Toribo Monastary; short hike in Brez
6/18 - Potes -- Fuente De hike
9/19 - Madrid (airport hotel) --Drive to Madrid; make stop in Segovia
9/20 - Fly home
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Old Jan 18th, 2010, 11:36 AM
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(no offense intended, but I still wonder why the misspelling of Bilbao-Bilboa...I started a thread on this topic long ago...)

Your itinerary is doable (I reckon your last two dates are June, not September), and if you like surfing, Biarritz is a very good place to practise this sport, as well as any Basque beach (specially the world famous Mundaka).

Yes, side trips to St Jean de Luz or Bayonne, very close to Biarritz, and to any of the beautiful villages on the French Basque Country (Ainhoa, Sare, Espelette,...)

As a general info, kids are welcome in most bars, and definitely in pintxos bars. Food is our religion over here, so don´t worry too much about eating, almost any place will be fine (there are plenty of threads on SS and food). You may find some restaurants open for dinner at 09PM, although it´s a bit early (but in France is a perfect timing for dinner, even kind of late).

Try to visit the Spanish Basque coast (Lekeitio, Getaria, Zarautz, Zumaia...), you´ll love the autenticity on it, as well as the rest of the Cantabric sea coast.

www.maribelsguides.com are full of hints on this area and very useful recommendations. My own blog, http://mugalari.wordpress.com offers some ideas from a local point of view.
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Old Jan 18th, 2010, 11:37 AM
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BTW, Spain is a VERY baby or kid friendly country, your baby will be welcome anywhere.
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Old Jan 18th, 2010, 11:55 AM
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Children and Spain go hand in hand .. no worries. We have taken our daughter when she was 13 months and traveled all over. We are not "stroller" people, so we carried her in the baby bjorn .. if she were 20 months, we may have put her in the Kelty (the backpack carrier) .. food for your 20 month old should not be a problem unless he is very picky, but even at that .. you just pop into the local market and keep food in the car.

The Paradores are wonderful places to stay .. you may want to investigate those.

We were just in that area in November, with my mother (83) husband and our 2 kids (6 and 4). We brought our own car seats with us and they did just fine. They LOVED the activity assocaited with the Tapas Bars.

Enjoy

..alexis
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Old Jan 18th, 2010, 12:03 PM
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It is doabe and the hikes are also well chosen. Brez walk is a track. Horcados Rojos walk from El Cable is very safe, but perhaps a bit difficult to walk with a child. Cares Corge is wide enough, but the drop is steep indeed.
6/17 Casa Cayo has a nice location, but I didn´t like the hotel too much. Hotel del Oso in Cosgaya is pretty isolated. Check Hotel Infantado in Ojedo. It is 1 km from Potes.
More information: http://www.hotelinfantado.com/
Restaurant: Check "La Venta de Vieda" in the Valley of Liebana. It is located 3 km from Potes. More information: http://www.topwalks.net/venta_de_vie...e_vieda_en.htm
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Old Jan 18th, 2010, 08:34 PM
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Thank you everyone for all the information.

We will definitely try to visit Ainhoa, Sare, and Espelette - maybe combine them with our side trip to St. Jean de Luz? I am acually thinking of adding one more day to our trip so we can take the scenic coastal route from San Sebastian up to Bilbao(spelled correctly this timeinstead of the E-70. This way we could hit Mundaka as well as the other Spanish coastal villages suggested. Maybe spend the night in Mundaka so my husband can hit the waves in the morning!

Good to know it's acceptable to bring children into tapas bars. This will definitely help us out with the eating situation. Hopefully our son will be amused by all the tapas activity as well!

From El Cable, I think we are just going to hike to Aliva refugio or maybe continue down to Espinama. Even though our toddler will be in a child backback carrier, it looks like parts of the Horcados Rojos trail might be a bit loose and unstable. Might be better to save this trail until he is a little older.

I wasn't sure about Casa Cayo (not a lot of reviews), but we liked that it was in the heart of Potes with lots of dining choices, walking areas, etc. But, I'll definitely take a look at Infantado....

Thanks again!
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Old Jan 18th, 2010, 09:45 PM
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The route Espinama - El Cable is a track all the way and easy to walk. We climbed up from Espinama, but it is easier starting from El Cable, especially if you are carrying a child.
Espinama is three kilometres from Fuente De, so you need transportation back or you must walk on the CA-185 asphalt road.

Parking is not a problem in Potes. That is why, it is not so important to live there.
In the Valley of Liebana, you should taste queso picón, the famous blue cheese, and orujo. I recommend "Sonazal" orujo blanco and all the products made by "Picos" (blanco, crema, hierba). Picos is also producing ice wine (!) and mediocre red wines. But they are all made out of local grapes.

Asturias is famous for its cider culture, and it is interesting indeed. There are sidrerias in Potes and plenty to choose from in Arenas de Cabrales.
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Old Jan 18th, 2010, 10:57 PM
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Miscellaneous ideas.
6/5 Madrid. I'd choose the Westin Palace.
6/12 San Sebastian. I'd choose the Londres --book in advance a room facing the bay--
6/14 Seaside Basque villages. Restaurant Kaia-Kaipe in the port of Getaria. Superb grilled fish.
6/15 The Guggenheim's restaurant is highly recommended. Stop in Comillas.
"El Capricho" by Gaudí in Comillas.
http://static.panoramio.com/photos/original/5360911.jpg
6/18 Cable car in Fuente De
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2220/...411ea083_b.jpg
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Old Jan 19th, 2010, 06:02 AM
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Tapas in nearby the Westin Palace.
Outside the hotel: "Estado Puro"
http://www.tapasenestadopuro.com/#puroLujo

Behind the hotel:
"Cervecería Cervantes" (Calle Cervantes 38). Tap beer and good seafood. Andalusian atmosphere.
"La Dolores" (Plaza de Jesus). Tiled tavern. Ask "canapé de boquerones en vinagre" (pickled anchovies canapé).
"Los Gatos" (Calle Jesus 2). An odd tourist trap with kitsch decor. Beware of ripping off!

Restaurant for local cuisine: Taberna de La Daniela at Calle Jesus (behind the Westin Palace). Have a Madrid's "cocido" (this is a full meal). This stew consist of three courses: soup, chickpeas with vegetables and meat.
http://m0.11870.com/multimedia/image...10c0e30d4.jpeg
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Old Jan 19th, 2010, 07:48 AM
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I've never been to Biarritz. My two cents is that San Sebastian is an amazing place. We spent 5 nights there and I could have spent a month. I would take nights off of France and add to San Sebastian. There are two fantastic beaches right downtown and surfing on one of them. Not to mention all of the stunning beaches and amazing food all along the coast from Zarautz to Getaria to Zumaia, all the way to Lekeitio and beyond.
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Old Jan 19th, 2010, 08:15 AM
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We saw many surfers in Hendaye, France , a very short ferry ride acrosss the river from Hondarribia Spain, near San Sebastian.
We visited Ribadisilla near the mountains and thought it would have been as nice place to stay, right on the beach.
I second the suffetion of www.maribelsguides.com If you need additional information, use the email on the website and you'll get an answer back quickly.
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Old Jan 19th, 2010, 08:06 PM
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Wow!, you guys are great! Thank you for all the great information.

Good to know about Picos' specialties - I love cheese so it sounds like I'm in for a treat! Didn't know about the ice wine. The last time I had that was in Calgary so that will be fun to sample as well.

Thanks for the restaurant/tapas recommendations - it's always nice to know of a few good places close to the hotel, especially when you have a toddler in tow!

I really appreciate the hotel input. In San Sebastian, the Londres looked really nice. But I was leaning more toward the Maria Cristina, mostly because of its location (it seems closer to the surf beach La Zurriola than Londres). Any idea how long a walk it is from both of these hotels? I was also concerned about possible noise at the Londres because of its location on the promenade.

We are definitely adding one more day to the San Sebastian area leg of our trip. I really don't want to take any days away from Biarritz because I want to experience both the French and Spanish Basque areas. That, and because we really only have 3 days in Biarritz after our drive up from Madrid.

I've been looking more into the Spanish coastal villages of Zarautz, Getaria, Zumaia and Lekeitio... Not sure if we should spend that extra night in San Sebastian and daytrip to these villages or spend the night in one of them. Any suggestions?

I found a great hike from Zumaia to Deba (GR-121)and was thinking this might be a great way to see the coastline. Has anyone done this? The recommendation is to take the Euskotren train from Zumaia to Deba and hike back (15km). There is also a shorter loop trail to Elorriaga (9km).
http://www.debegesa.com/ciudadania/b...-around-zumaia

So many great places to visit - it's so hard to narrow it down!
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Old Jan 19th, 2010, 11:08 PM
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A perfect hike. But you also have a very nice walk on a promenade just bordering the sealine (almost touching the water) from Zarautz (great beach) to Getaria (great food in Elkano, for example).

from SS you can take daytrips to all these towns. In Lekeitio I´d recommend the Hostal de La Emperatriz, on top of the beach, offering a spa service as well, or the Palacio de Zubieta. http://www.aisiahoteles.com/hoteles.asp, www.hotelzubieta.com (I used to go fishing to the river nearby...). Lekeitio has a great church and two beautiful beaches (as depicted on my blog, http://mugalari.wordpress.com)
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Old Jan 20th, 2010, 12:45 AM
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From Hotel Maria Cristina to Zurriola is a 9 minutes walk according to Google Maps. From Hotel Londres is a 17 minutes walk.
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Old Jan 20th, 2010, 06:26 AM
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San Sebastián. Sights for toddlers (and for everyone too).
The ancient amusement park --built in 1912-- with a great view on the top of Monte Igeldo
http://sobreespana.com/wp-content/up...nte-igeldo.jpg

There is a funicular from Ondarreta Beach to Monte Igeldo.
http://www.europeancitycards.com/tra...mages/2752.jpg

The Aquarium in the port
http://www.timoelliott.com/personal/...9/07/whale.jpg

… and an indulgence: typical cookies from Tolosa called "tejas" -- literally, tiles--
http://fotos.mundorecetas.net/albums...cs/10176/3.jpg
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Old Jan 20th, 2010, 06:57 AM
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I would do daytrips to Getaria for some of the best food on the planet (Kaia, Elkano), Zarautz and Zumaia for amazing beaches, but you won't have time to see much with 3 nights. I might spend a quiet night in Lekeitio on your way west though, I mean quiet. I would not take any nights off from San Sebastian. I cannot stress that enough if you like to have fun and love amazing food etc. It may be the highlight of the trip.
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Old Jan 20th, 2010, 08:12 AM
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< I love cheese so… >
Idiazabal cheese is not to miss.
http://www.cheesefromspain.com/CFS/15112Idiazabal_I.htm

Some dishes of the traditional Basque cuisine:
Alubias de Tolosa (beans from Tolosa)
http://www.eltiempo.com/culturayocio...-6003048-1.gif

Txangurro: Cooked spider crab meat and sauce put into the crab shell then baked.
http://www.gastroville.com/archives/image18.jpg

Chipirones en su tinta: Squid cooked in their ink.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_Jql0GkH3Yoo/R9...Z+AL+VAPOR.jpg

Merluza Goierri (hake with clams and cider sauce)
http://www.iespenacastillo.com/docum...sa%20verde.jpg

Recommended restaurant for the TRADITIONAL cuisine in San Sebastian:
"Casa Nicolasa" at 4 Aldamar St. --1st floor, not the ground floor--
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Old Jan 20th, 2010, 10:38 PM
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More great information - thank you. And those links to all the food...my mouth is watering!

OK, OK, I'm convinced -- we'll spend more time in San Sebastian! We are now allotting 5 nights to the San Sebastian area. Yay! There are 2 day-trips I'd like to make from SS: 1. Getaria/Zarautz (Zarautz beach, promenade walk, lunch in Getaria, mouse island), and 2. Zumaia/Deba (coastal cliffs hike) and possibly Lekeitio.* The rest of the time (3 days) I'd like to spend in San Sebastian - soaking up the culture, sights...and food, of course.

After SS, our plan is to move on to the Picos de Europa (Arenas de Cabrales), stopping in Bilbao en route to see the Guggenheim museum.

QUESTION: Do you think taking the coastal route from SS to Bilbao, instead of the A-8 route, is a "must-do" - and something that shouldn't be missed? I don't think we'll have time to drive all the way to Mundaka, Bermeo and take the BI-631 route to Bilbao, but we could definitely go as far as Lekeitio (and take the B1-2238/635 to the A-8 to Bilbao).

*If this is a "must", we could visit Zumaia/Debas as planned but instead of returning to SS, spend the night in Lekeitio (the village a couple of you suggested).

I realize "must-dos" are subjective....
I'm trying to minimize the number of times we switch hotels - so if you don't think the coastal route is a necessary component, I'd rather stay put in SS and take the A-8 to Bilbao.
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Old Jan 20th, 2010, 11:12 PM
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You can go from SS to Bilbao in one hour on the A8 (I work just half way of both cities and take this route everyday), and maybe return by the coastal route (exit A8 in Amorebieta-Gernika). Lekeitio is very much worth the visit (just 25kms from Deba).
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Old Jan 21st, 2010, 08:15 AM
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Now I'm getting jealous of this trip. Zarautz is a beautiful beach and the walk along the coast from Zarautz to Getaria is unforgettable on a nice day. Make sure you get to Getaria before the restaurants close so you can sample the whole grilled fish which is supposedly the best in the world. Lekeitio is well worth the trip. Zumaia is another nice beach town but if you're short on time don't miss Lekeitio. The coast road from SS to Zarautz is not neccesarily a must see. Driving inland from the coast is also beautiful, all rolling green hills, valleys, and rainforests, sometimes a goat standing on top of the roof the owner's house. Unlike anywhere I've ever seen. I hope this part of Spain doesn't become popular with tourists. I should probably stop recommending it so much.
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