Owen_ONeill

First trip to Eire for self &amp; GF - we are late 40's and stay active. Wish to avoid heavily touristed areas and &quot;sightseeing attractions&quot;. More interested in natural beauty of the countryside - have always wanted to get to far west coast but not sure if it's realistic on our trip. We also like a bit of a big city experience at times. Will be researching guide books etc for specifics but need help with some general info.<BR><BR>We arrive on Sat late morning May 31 and departe mid morning Sun June 8. Thinking that a car pickup at airport with an afternoon and night in Dublin on arrival and another afternoon and night in Dublin at tail end will allow some needed rest before and after travel. Can't fly to Shannon - Dublin price was too good to pass up.<BR><BR>1) Does it make sense to rent car at airport? Also - any experience with First UK Car rentals? Price is $387 US currency complete w/all fees, CDW, VAT etc. - fair price?<BR><BR>2) Better to stay in City Centre or South Dublin? We will leave car parked and walk or use public transport<BR><BR>3) If I don't want to see the Blarney Stone, Waterford factory and all that hoop-lah, is our 7 day time frame enough for a liesurely drive out to Dingle peninsula and back around to Dublin? Will want to stop for some lazy lunches, photo ops, see some old structures, perhaps a garden tour or two.<BR><BR>4) What's a realistic driving time inthe country per 50km of distance (not including time to stop and linger etc.) Trying to plan an itinerary that will keep us busy but not stressed.<BR><BR><BR>Just general info is really all I need although specific suggestions are helpful.<BR>By the way... I am an espresso and coffee aficionado - will appreciate tips on any coffee micro-roasters, espresso bars and cafes etc that I might visit along the way. Will even structure travel to include these if possible.

payant

everything in Ireland during June is heavily touristed. by heading to the Dingle peninsula you are heading right into tour bus land.<BR>suggest you stay near the airport the first night rather than drive thru town to the south of dublin--will take up your day. Dublin is not the quaint city it once was-that's all torn down and modernized. sad but true.<BR>as for countryside beauty-find a hiking guide to Ireland and head for the Bens in connemara. clifden is a lovely small town at that time of year. driving should be confined to the day because the roads are dark, narrow and full of interesting stray donkeys and dogs. My wife has this advice- don't give an orange to the cute donkey when it sticks itshead in the car window. the result is orange juice on the dashboard.

Clifton

Owen,<BR><BR>I'm sure I can't answer everything the same as you might, but here's a few thoughts if they're helpful.<BR><BR>1) We found Dublin's airport to be fairly easy to manuever around after picking up the car. Admittedly, it was easier once my wife took over the driving, as she grew up driving on the left and I didn't. Still, picking up the car is much easier out by the airport than in Dublin proper, which is driving bedlam. Leave the car out in the 'burbs. If you're touring the city, you may save yourself a day's rental by waiting until the next day to pick it up. I've never heard of UK Rentals, so I can't help you there. What size car is that rate for and is it auto or manual? Most are manual and automatics are considerably more expensive. May want to stick with a small car. Country lanes rimmed with rock walls and village streets that look like alley ways get very narrow at times and when there's a bus coming from the other way...<BR><BR>Anyway, we used Argus Rentals www.argusrentals.com and were quite happy with them. They're showing $267 US for a Nissan Micra for 5/31-6/1 period.<BR><BR>2) Can't answer that with a definite. We stayed with family just into Co. Kildare. If you want to tour the city, then city center (but hold off on car). If you want to get an early start through Wicklow or see Powerscourt Gardens, then south might be good.<BR><BR>3) Long lazy route away from the hubbub? Drive the Waterford coast from just west of Waterford town down through Annestown, Dungarven and Youghal. We spotted a tiny little sign that looked like a brown street sign that just said &quot;castle&quot;. Sudden decision to veer right following a tiny road led to a castle ruin covered in ivy perched on an outcropping of rock above our heads. No tourists, no signage, nothing. It was gorgeous a great sea view from up there.<BR><BR>From Dungarven, head north and swing through Carrick on Suir, Cahir and Glen of Ahrlow drive on towards Dingle -or- veer around Cork, picking up the coast again until the Beara Pennisula and take the Healy Pass. Should be able to pick up a quaint B&amp;B along the way in smaller towns as you need them still in early June along those paths.<BR><BR>4) I've heard people hear say that 35KM is about average and that's about what we found too. Most scenic roads are small and they squeeze though the main road of many small villages along the way, plus a few sheep on the roads.<BR><BR>Enjoy your trip!

Ardfert

You can get a good idea od driving time by looking up www.viamichelin.com. Summer days are very long in Ireland and if you travel during during daylight between 6-8 am or 7-10 pm you will usually find the traffic is light.I have driven from Dublin to Dingle in about 6 hours by starting early.Usually though I would be stopping a lot and it might take me all day.I have left Dublin 5 times to go to Glenveagh National Park in Donegal and never made it.I found too may things to do on the way.I do not book a B and B in advance usually-I always seem to get one when I need one though. This summer things will be quiet because of Iraq and driving will be easier.

Owen_ONeill

Thanks to all for the helpful replies. I have already planned on trying to get a small car due to the width of roads etc. but was also advised that auto transmission is a very good idea when driving on the left if one is not accustomed to doing so. The smallest car I could find from anyone that has auto is compact size - a bit bugger than the Micra. Argus Rentals price is within $2 US of First UK for that size and type. I drive a stick every day and am quite comfortable with it - perhaps folks are being a bit alarmist? I'm in favor of saving $100 or more if feasible.<BR><BR>It also sounds as though staying pn the north end of Dublin and taking public transport in is a good idea. I think we'll pick the car up on Sunday morning if possible and drop it off the following Saturday - save a couple days of rental $$. <BR><BR>Armed wiht this great info, I'll concoct a rough itinerary and post agai for feedback. Thanks!

Judy

I think the reason that most people recommend automatic transmission is not discomfort with shifting but anticipated difficulty shifting with left hand rather than right....too confusing for me.

janis

Owen: (I tried posting this earlier today but couldn't get the site to work) <BR><BR>The others have given you good info re Ireland. My comments are about the rental car. Most Fodorites will recommend an automatic. But if you are competent driving a manual transmission, go for it.<BR><BR>Most Americans seldom if ever drive a stick (and anymore I only do when on vacation in the UK or Ireland) and they tend to panic just thinking about the possibility. But you will not be doing any “power” shifting or trying to race someone off the line. You will simply be going up and down through the gears. I am totally useless w/ my left hand but have absolutely no problem shifting. Finding the gate for reverse in a rental can be a problem sometimes tho’ <BR><BR>I believe a stick helps – with an automatic novices can sort of go into auto-pilot and forget which side of the road to be on. Having the gearshift on your left actually helps you focus.<BR><BR>So save the extra money and rent a stick.<BR>

NorthSideSue

Go for the manual transmission and spend the $100 on something else. I drive a stick here at home and had no trouble last May on our 9-day &quot;west coast pub crawl&quot;.

Owen_ONeill

Sounds like the stick is the choice - I prefer the smaller car anyway (now I have even better reason to convince my GF to pack light!). We'll only be driving during the day and under the influence of nothing stronger than espresso... speaking of which.... what's the status of coffee and espresso in Eire? Good stuff far and few between or readily available?

Chinita

Ireland is lovely at that time of the year. DO BELIEVE the Irish Tourist Board information giving travel times -- they seem long for the distances, but it will truly take you that long. Even major highways slow through towns - they don't go around them as the U.S. Interstate system does. <BR><BR>If you decide you'd rather not drive, drive, drive for your 7 days, may I recommend the Wicklow Mountains, just south of Dublin? It is gorgeous countryside, with a fair amount of interesting historical sites (Glendalough, etc.), as well. <BR><BR>Happy trails...

DavidD

Owen,<BR><BR>First things first, and that means coffee. Ireland, figuratively speaking, is not Seattle, and you'll be hard pressed to satisfy your appetite for gourmet Joe in Erin. It should be said, however, that in the past decade or so coffee has played an increasingly popular role in Irish culture, at least as regards the tourist trade. Some years ago, it wasn't easy to get a good cup of coffee at your basic B &amp; B, but that's no longer the case, as decent java is widely available at a wide range of accomodations. Unfortunately, finding distinctive coffee at shops in non-urban regions remains spotty at best; you'll do best in cities such as Dublin and Galway. Check a detailed Irish travel guide, like The Rough Guide, for tips on finding a quality cup.<BR><BR>Regarding touring Ireland, I concur with the idea of staying outside the city center on your first day. The Old Workhouse, located in the town of Dunshaughlin, County Meath, is just the ticket. It's located on the N3, Dublin/Cavan road, and it combines great service, cozy rooms, and superb breakfasts. You'll want to stay here for at least two nights. In addition, the Workhouse makes for an ideal base to tour the scenic, historically fascinating, and not-too-touristy Boyne Valley.<BR><BR>From the Boyne Valley, I can't help but recommend - especially considering your desire to travel byways rather than highways - that you head northwest for Counties Sligo and Fermanagh. Here you'll get some of Ireland's most attractive countryside along with few of the crowds. There's plenty of hiking opportunities (check out Benbulben, near Yeats' gravesite), many quality accommodations, and the chance to explore a seemingly endless number of fascinating ancient monuments. Do a bit of research, make a plan, and don't miss this marvelous corner of old Ireland.<BR><BR>Best of luck.<BR><BR><BR>

Chinita

PS - For really lovely options to stay, try Alistair Sawday's &quot;Special Places to Stay in Ireland.&quot; Four stars...

sss

Owen, The following two sites are invaluable for planning a driving trip around Ireland and they both will give you real life driving times that differ so much from computer generated ones!!<BR><BR>1. www.IrelandYes.com<BR>2. www.IrelandExpert.com

Owen_ONeill

These are all great suggestions and really helping in the planning. I think we will stay for two nights in a couple places and be moving on the other days (perhaps - still not certain). Am thinking of taking Airport Express bus to and from lodgings in north Dublin suburbs rather than renting car at airport. We save 1 1/2 days rental charge on car and $21 aiport fee but there's cost of bus and convenience to consider and also.... looking at the bus schedule it appears that we'd cut it too close at the airport. Earliest Sunday morning buses leave Dublin after 7AM and our plane is at 9:10. Are cabs cheap enough and easy to get from airport to 'burbs or should we just get car at airport? (I realize driving in Ireland can be a challenge but I drive fearlessly in midtown Manhattan a few times every week and am not concerned about the driving).

PETERM

Be careful, dont forget jet-lag, learning left side, manual,extremely narrow roads,no traffic signals, Dublin will be nite-mare on first a.m. I tore left mirror off turning into P.lot, but rallied to do complete circle of island 1600 mi. in 7 days, all in 3rd gear, never got to 5th. Reconsider Waterford,I really enjoyed the 100 major sport trophies. Ireland is a beautiful drive, I'm jealous again, enjoy !<BR><BR><BR><BR><BR>

phillymazes

Have been reading these postings to prep for end-April, early May trip (4 days Killarney, train to Dublin for 3 days on bank holiday weekend). For those readers with such good experience:<BR><BR>1) Dublin: any favorite pub for a Friday night, good food &amp; music, nice snugs, that tourists don't jam up, on south side somewhere near St. E's park/Grafton or below? We're willing to forgo Temple Bar to see a &quot;local&quot; spot. Then on Sat or Sun morning - recommended markets with more local artisans &amp; &quot;real stuff/food&quot; than tourist gifts? And how about a great dress-up Sat night seafood dinner place?<BR><BR>2) Killarney - we're doing a one-day drive around the Kerry Ring; also the next day (or previous, depending on weather outlook) up to Dingle/Connor Pass and back. (We have great Killarney hotel so not looking to do overnight on these road trips). Anyone venture to say &quot;great two days&quot; or &quot;do the Ring but skip Dingle in favor of....&quot;? We're also doing first day in Killarney Park until I get used to the driving... <BR><BR>3) On Kerry Ring, recommendations for good lunch stop mid-way thru the 110-mi trip? We're taking south-to-north against the oncoming tour buses.<BR><BR>Bon chance to us all...

DavidD

Owen,<BR><BR>Consider Chapter One for dining in Dublin town (www.chapteronerestaurant.com). Located in Parnell Square, it'll more than satisfy your yearning for good seafood. Also, the restaurant has a creative - and very tasty - pre- and post-theater program that goes like this: Have a two-course meal before you see a show, see the show, and then conclude the evening at Chapter One with dessert. Very nice.<BR><BR>Best of luck.

Owen_ONeill

Still not sure whether to pick up the car at airport or not but if we do the only drving on first day will be from airport into nearby suburbs to park at hotel - will use public transport in and around Dublin.<BR><BR>Nice idea on a restaurant where we can return after show for dessert - will look into that.<BR><BR>I have even less interest in sports in general and sports trophies in particular than I do in seeing the crystal factory. Are there other compelling reasons to visit the Waterford area or can I safely leave it off my short list?

payant

on the subject of cut crystal<BR>you will find that waterford and other crystal cutters use blanks from belgium, austria, and the czech republic and then cut/engrave those to final specifications. there are crystal cutters all over Ireland--you will see signs for crystal factory on the side of the road. we have a lovely crenelated tower - czech blank/irish cutting that we picked up near Kilkenny. waterford may not be your finest hour on a trip. <BR>as for gardens-there is a town on the south coast whose name I forget but it has a five star hotel-The Park hotel. there is a b&amp;b just across a small creek from the hotel which is run by an older couple with a son on the agricultural faculty of the University of Dublin- a dendrologist. the father has nourished gifts from his son into a sprawling gardened yard. stop there if they are still in business.

DavidD

Owen,<BR><BR>It's too bad that Waterford - both the city and the entire county - is known all but exclusively for its crystal. I took Waterford's tour last summer (I did so reluctantly, as I felt it would be way too touristy) and I frankly enjoyed it, finding it entertaining and informative. Still, there is much more to Waterford than its famous factory.<BR><BR>Here are a couple Waterford-based excursions that you might consider:<BR><BR>*Enjoy a two-day stay along the scenic and highly underrated Waterford coast. Annestown House, located in the ultra-quiet village of Annestown, is a delight. The house overlooks the Irish Sea, and it provides top-notch eats. (See www.annestown.com). While in this region, take a short drive east into Co. Wexford and spend a day at Hook Head lighthouse. Here you'll enjoy a fun tour of the lighthouse and smashing seaside views.<BR><BR>*Next, drive northwest from Waterford City and explore the Comeragh Mountains. This is another relatively unknown part of Ireland (at least as concerns tourists), one that is quite scenic. Plus, there's a terrific accommodation that makes this area all the more appealing. It's called Hanora's Cottage, and it features ten spotless, attractive rooms, a lovely setting, and some memorable food (The breakfast at Hanora's is arguably the best on the entire island.) See www.hanorascottage.com<BR><BR>Best of luck.<BR><BR>