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Old Jan 14th, 2004, 08:41 AM
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Barcelona to San Seb or Madrid to San S

Trying to decide which direction will be better for seeing sights in northern Spain. Should we fly into Madrid, and drive to San Sebastian via stops in Salamanca and Zamora, up through Burgos? Or fly nto Barcelona and drive west through the Aragon, stopping in Zaragoza and Pamplona?
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Old Jan 14th, 2004, 10:25 AM
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hzardnc,
I really depends on what type of scenery you're seeking or most enjoy, what parts of the country you've already visited and how much time you have. I sense you aren't a first time Spain visitor (?).

Salamanca/Zamora aren't on the most direct route from Madrid to San Sebastian. Seeing them requires a little venturing off to the west (usually seen on a trip from Madrid to Portugal or Galicia). The most direct route would be through Burgos and Vitoria. Before Burgos you could detour slightly to the adorable, highly pictuesque and perfectly preserved medieval village of Pedraza, then back on the autoroute up to Lerma for another quick stop in this monumental town with a ducal palace-turned Parador. Then in Burgos, of El Cid fame, you have one of Spain's great Gothic cathedrals and the beautiful Monastery of Las Huelgas on the outskirts. Vitoria is a very lively, prosperous and liveable city, the capital of the Basque Country, well worth a quick look, especially for a walk around its medieval quarter.

But the "off piste" drive from Barcelona through the Aragonese Pyrenees to San Sebastian is just stunning. You can do the non-stop drive on the superhighway in about 6 yrs. or take days, a week or even a month stopping in all the gorgeous mountain valleys up to the north! If you take the autoroute from Barcelona directly to S.S. through Zaragoza and Tudela the scenery isn't that spectacular (but the town of Olite has some fine architecture and is worthy of a stop). From Zaragoza you'd need to detour up through Huesca to Jaca, then along the valleys of Anso/Hecho, then the Roncal valley in Navarra to see some spectacular mountain scenery and monuments such as the Loarre and Javier castles, the Monasterio de la Pena and Monastery at Leyre , the cute little mountain towns of Anso/Hecho, then Ochagavia, the reservoir and gorge at Yesa, Sos del Rey Catolico, the birthplace of King Ferdinand, etc. List goes on and on... It really depends on how much time you have to sightsee and to linger.

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Old Jan 14th, 2004, 02:28 PM
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Thank you Mirabel. Plan B sounds like what I was looking for. We could fly from Barcelona or Madrid to San Sebastian, but we wer elooking for a differnt path that would show us some of the best that area has to offer. Any suggestions for good hotels between Barcelona and San Sebastian?
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Old Jan 14th, 2004, 03:46 PM
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hazardnc,
Lodging possibilities:

You'll probably want to press on further than Zaragoza, so I'd consider spending the night in the Aragonese Pyrenees, Huesca province, to enjoy the beautiful scenery. You could stay in the mountaineering capital of the region, Jaca, at the Conde Aznar
www.jaca.com/conde-aznar/conde.htm

or...
further on down the road at the Parador at King Ferdinand's birthplace, the atmospheric village of Sos del Rey
Católico.
www.parador.es

or...
if you want to see the Aragonese Pyrenees in all their splendor, I'd go north from Jaca up to the ski area of Formigal-Candanchú-Sallent de Gallego-Panticosa and stay at one of the cute little slate roof and stone mountain inns in Sallent, near the French border. These come to mind:

Hotel Bocale
www.bocale.com

Hotel Almud
www.secretplaces.com
www.hotelalmud.com

Hotel Mingo (actually in Escarilla)
www.innsofspain.com
www.rusticae.com
www.valledetena.com

See all 3 at www.notodohoteles.com

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Old Jan 15th, 2004, 05:33 AM
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I had read an article in Saveur magazine about a town high in the Pyrenees called Cerdanya. The article made me want to visit the area, but none of the towns mentioned in the article appear on my Michelin map. They must be really hard to find! Here's a link http://saveur.com/article.jsp?ID=15827&typeID=100

I will look into all of you suggestions. Thanks so much for your help
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Old Jan 15th, 2004, 10:19 AM
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Hello hazardnc:

I kinda did your first option.
My Spain travel report details my route, hotels and the like.

Skip to the parts( I posted 8 parts) that concern you if you like.

Good Luck!

Happy Travels
Oaktown Traveler
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Old Jan 15th, 2004, 04:30 PM
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hazardnc,
Cerdanya is not a town-it is an area of Catalunya, the foothills of the Pyrenees, in a basin straddling France and Spain, and a quite beautiful area it is. We've spent a bit of time exporing Cerdanya in depth. I have the Saveur article, written by George Semler, the author of Fodor's Barcelona to Bilbao, who helped me plan our trip through the area. He has a weekend cottage on the French side of Cerdanya (Cerdagne) and knows the area intimately. I didn't mention it to you because I assumed you wanted to go straight from Barcelona to Zaragoza on the autoroute, which would mean missing Cerdanya entirely. It's the area roughly between Seu d'Urgell and Puigcerdà and straddles two Spain provinces, Girona and Lleida.
In that area we've stayed at the charmingly rustic "Can Borell" in tiny Meranges, near Puig., , on the French side in tiny LLo at the rustically charming and cozy "L'Atalaya" (superb dining), also at the lovely, tranquil "El Castell de Ciutat", a Relais Chateaux property right outside of Seu. There's also the more expensive and exquisite little R &C property "Torre del Remei" in Bolvir de Cerdanya and the family run for generations "Can Boix" (great food!) in Martinet de Cerdanya. And the newly remodeled Parador in Seu d'Urgell. Lots of lodging options in Cerdanya.

And I also didn't mention the absolutely unforgettable, breathtakingly beautiful piece de resistance in that area-the spectacular cog wheel train ride (called the "tren cremallera&quot from Ribes de Freser up to the sanctuary of Nuria in the Val de Nuria where there is a simple but pleasant and utterly peaceful Husa hotel. This would be the short mountain rail journey of your life! Look for posts by keldar on this topic. She and I share a great love for the Val de Nuria.
www/valldenuria.com

If you have time to explore, you'll fall in love with the Cerdanya.
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Old Jan 16th, 2004, 05:53 AM
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hazardnc,
Just a bit more about the Cerdanya:
If you do decide to visit on your way west to S.S., from Barcelona you should go north and take the Cadi tunnel- the drive should take between 1 1/2-2 hrs.

You didn't mention in what month you'll be taking this journey.
Cerdanya has ski resorts at La Molina and La Masella which make it popular with Barcelona residents on wkds.. If your visit is for the summer, the Cerdanya then is a real delight. With its very sunny green valleys (it runs east to west rather than north to south, thus enjoying more hrs. of sunlight-solar research projects carried out at Font-Romeu), crystal streams, the River Segre slicing through the center, its fields of wildflowers and pine forests, it's a magnet for nature lovers. There's also golfing at the Real Club de Golf de Cerdanya and lodging for golfers at the Swiss looking Hotel Chalet de Golf outside Puigcerda.

In the 1800s the valley became a favorite summer residence for Barcelona's elite, and wealthy families built elaboate "Newport" style mansions here, some you can see around the lake in Puigcerda (the Torre de Remei is a 1910 Art Nouveau-Moderniste mansion).

And if you're a gourmand, the wild mushrooms, called, "bolets", are fantastic as is "trinxat", a dish of pureed potatoes and winter cabbage sauteed in bacon fat, absolutely yummy, plus the local pears and turnips paired with rabbit, "peras i naps" and pears poached in wine for dessert, "peras amb vi". and can be sampled at 3 great restaurants specializing in the regional cuisine:
Can Ventura in the tiny Spanish enclave of Llivia (actually inside France), Can Boix in Martinet and Can Borell in Meranges.

There are also pretty little Romanesque churches in the area, such as Santa Maria de Tallo, outside of Bellver de Cerdanya.

Puigcerda holds a "Festival of the Lake" on the 3rd wkd. in Aug. featuring fireworks and a parade presided by a resident dressed as "the old lady of the lake", a legendary figure, symbol of virtue, who is said to live at the botoms of the lake and wander the town in the dark of night checking on the neighbors to mae sure they've been treating each other kindly and fairly.

This area is one of the most beguiling parts of Catalunya for me.
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Old Jan 17th, 2004, 11:27 AM
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Route N 260 goes all along the Pyrenees, north of Barcelona- Zaragoza-Pamplona highway. You have to drive up to Ripoll to go through "La Cerdayna" the beatiful spanish-French region. From there you can go to Seu de urgel with two alternatives, continue the spanish side to Sort and further to Jaca-pamplona, San sebastian or cross Through Andorra to Foix and Pau in France ending in San sebastian. This route gives you a bit of three countries.
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