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barcelona or Bust? Maybe it should be Paris. A trip report take 2

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barcelona or Bust? Maybe it should be Paris. A trip report take 2

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Old Feb 2nd, 2008, 03:18 PM
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Oh gosh, sorry " busting my chops" is slang, it's like saying your giving me a hard time, or picking on me in a playful way. Definitely not a bad thing and most certainly won't find it in a dictionary. My dad says it all the time. It's just an American slang saying.

I am working on the next installment
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Old Feb 2nd, 2008, 03:31 PM
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laartista:

Ever since I read your Provence report with this quote, you have been my personal hero! (I'm turning 40 next year, ugh)

As I drive up to Roussillon, I really can't get over the scenery, I literally well up it so beautiful. And, I think to myself, hey, you maybe single and alone in romantic Provence but O my God, you're alone in the middle of the French countryside in a foreign talking car with no maps-who does this? I'm not single and 40, I'm fabulous and 40. Never gave the alone thing another thought for the rest of the trip.

I'm really enjoying your Barcelona trip report. It's interesting to look at things from the perspective of someone moving there, rather than being on vacation.

I know what you mean about liking the Port Vel area. I'm from Florida, too, and this area with the big marina and the beach felt like home to me.

Johanna


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Old Feb 2nd, 2008, 03:43 PM
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Oh, great, I'm learning a lot here, even some American slang !!
Keep on writing, your report is wonderful !
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Old Feb 2nd, 2008, 04:29 PM
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Wow Gracie, Thanks! That's so nice of you to say. No doubt 40 is a toughy. Hard to believe that trip was was 2 years ago, Just turned 42 this past Tuesday. And I'm STILL single, lol. But you what, I think about that quote a lot myself. And to be honest I have never felt that way since, that trip in particular empowered me. Sure a girl could mope because she is alone or she can conquer HER world. I think that's why I'm making this move to shake things up a bit, might as well take advantage of my single status. Who knows my guy may be across the pond!

So we made it back to the Port Vell area and onto Passeige Joan De Borbo, one of my favorite streets now. Just loved it. The architecture, views of port and beach, would be the perfect street to live on. We still hadn't eaten and quickly find a place called FOC. We grab a table outside. Foc means fire which would explain all the hanging gold gilded picture frames with fake fireplace fires burning in them. Loved their t-shirts too Foc You on the back. AND, it was while sitting at this cafe that I found my favorite Catalan word. COCTELERIA- a place for cocktails. Love that! Just an FYI FRANCOBOLLI is my favorite Italian word.

We ordered a mixed grilled skewer plate, salmon, tuna chicken, and beef and some sausages in a red wine sauce, fries and grilled peppers. with a couple of waters and coffee it was about 30E. Gosh we sat there for a while, just loved the vibe there. After lunch we walked around the port passed the Museum de Catalunya which is a gorgeous building again with a ton of restaurants, they LOVE their food there. Stopped to watch an awesome street performer covering Dylan songs and passed the Aquarium to the Maremagnum, which translates to big shopping mall.

This placed was packed! Stores were so so but I tell you a ton of people. Would be a great place for a shop, on the list even though we figure rents would be through the roof. It was about 5:15 and we were to meet Claire at 6 so we start walking back not realizing how close we were to Born. If you take the long route to Maremagnum over the foot bridge, they have got the coolest buoys in the water. Reminded me of Keith Herring figures with their hands behind their back looking to the sky. My favorite, we'll call him shitface buoy, had bird poop all over his face streaming down like tears. I thought it was hysterical. Especially when the bird came and sat on his head. Poor buoy!

Walking back we had to run by the hotel, Robin had forgotten to take her insulin that morning, plus we had done a little shopping at the FC Barcelona store. I picked up caps for dad, brother and bro-in-law and Robin got one for her soccer obsessed Irish boyfriend. So we would drop off the bags. We got to the room with 15 minutes to spare when I realize I had a text from Claire. Could we meet at 7 instead of 6. Of course we could I text her back, and then went to use the free internet.

We were meeting Claire at the Jaume Metro station just down the street from where we were staying. Now I have never met Claire so had no idea what she looked like. I thought perhaps she would recognize me from one of my reports. As we approach the stop Robin gets a text, maybe Claire we thought and at that moment saw a woman standing alone with red glasses on her cell but not saying anything. Must be Claire. We walk up and say Claire? and as she looks at us as if we each had 3 heads a voice from behind us says No, I'm Claire. We felt like idiots, we are idiots.

After the Oh, thanks for meeting us is so great to meet you blah, blah, blah, we decide to grab a drink. Claire leading the way because, hey, it's her turf. We follow her like 2 baby ducks, and of course asking a bunch of questions. I hoped we weren't barraging her, we probably were. The first place we go to is in the lower Gothic Quarter called Milk. A cool little bar/lounge with an extensive foofy drink menu. Claire orders some raspberry fruity concoction which she highly recommends. Robin goes for the Kir Royale and I a Mojito. Off the subject quickly. For the past 6-8 weeks I have been having awful digestive problems, had an endoscopy a few weeks ago have really bad acid reflux and my stomach has been a mess. A result from my annual X-mas show diet where I exist on coffee, red bull, butterfinger bars with an occasional pizza thrown in for good measure for about a month. I btw lost 8 pounds on that diet but it did screw my stomach up. I have been on a really restrictive diet, no tomato, citrus, chocolate, milk,and NO alcohol. I basically threw caution to the wind on this trip and ignored all guidelines with my trusty Prilosec at my side. So that Mojito was the first drink I had had in like 2 months-enough said, I was toast after it. The other two, well they can hold their liquor better, especially party girl Claire.

We were hungry and Claire suggests a wine bar called I want to say Ando, but don't quote me on that. Just a few windy streets away. It was a laid back loungy kind of place. Smoky, dark wood, red fabrics, I liked it. Since Claire is fluent in both Catalan and Spanish she ordered. A delicious red wine, which I also wish I knew the name of, toast rubbed with tomato and garlic, some chorizo and a cheese plate. It was perfect. We chatted and laughed for a few hours, that girl has a very interesting life so far. I think it was about 10 or so and she had to go, was meeting up with a friend. We hung out for a bit longer and then left. We were walking around the area making our way back toward the hotel, but I was still hungry. We pop into a small grungy tapas bar order some croquettes and a tortilla before returning to the hotel. We wanted to get a full day in Sunday.

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Old Feb 2nd, 2008, 05:26 PM
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Who knows my guy may be across the pond!


But not the guy in the Speedo!

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Old Feb 2nd, 2008, 05:50 PM
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fun report, great pics! Can't wait for more (and are the room pics on Ciutat's website true to form?)
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Old Feb 2nd, 2008, 06:18 PM
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wow, interesting report! Can't wait to see how it all turns out.
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Old Feb 2nd, 2008, 06:35 PM
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Great fun reading your report, and can't wait to hear more about your business venture.

I so admire your spirit of daring and adventure, to pick up and try to make a new life in another country. I'm looking forward to hearing about your continued exploration and what you decide to do.

Paule
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Old Feb 2nd, 2008, 06:37 PM
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Ditto! How exciting!
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Old Feb 2nd, 2008, 07:54 PM
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Hola Chica!
I was wondering if we were ever going to hear about Barcelona! I love reading your reports because I always know we're in for a wild ride.
Sounds like you certainly had an interesting time.
And even if it turns out Barcelona is not for you, just think, you'll always have the guy in the speedo.

(I just have to add that that guy was just <i>wrong</i> on so many levels.)
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Old Feb 3rd, 2008, 05:25 AM
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Boy that guy in the speedo is getting a lot of play here! And you are so right Kristina it was wrong on so many levels. I really am kicking myself I didn't take video, he kept doing a jogging dance in circles. Maybe his daily exercise routine. Now I know speedos are all the rage on the beaches of Europe but I'm all for the board shorts! You can take a girl out of America but not the American out of the girl!

Mc- Yes, the rooms are true to form, they look like the pix. If I'm to be completely honest the beds were a bit hard, but we asked for extra blankets and pillows which helped. Other than that it is a lovely small hotel with a GREAT location. Also even though we did not eat there, their restaurant Colors is supposed to be excellent and they have live Jazz a few night a week. I would stay there again and probably will when I go back early April.

Kristina- will hear a bit about the usual stuff of Barcelona but not a whole lot about the sights because it was more of a scouting trip. At the end I'll wrap up impressions and pros and cons and and where my head is at now. Plus lots of links I used for research in case anyone else decides to uproot their life.
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Old Feb 3rd, 2008, 09:22 AM
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Waiting to hear your ideas on where to open the shop...
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Old Feb 3rd, 2008, 03:48 PM
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O.K. so it's Sunday and we get up around 8 but for some reason it takes us 2 hours everyday to get dressed and out of the room. Thing is I can get ready in 20 minutes at home, but then again I usually look like a slob at home. Sorry I digress.

Since most everything is closed on Sundays and especially Sunday mornings we decide to take the morning off from scouting duties and head up to Parc Guell, which is my absolute favorite spot in Barcelona and probably favorite park anywhere. I just think it's amazing. First time I was there in 99 I cried the whole time, couldn't get over it. Well so happens Robin had never been so off we went. We decide to hoof it from El Borne which is basically walking clear across town. Not sure my boots were the right choice of footwear, oh well.

We start our walk up Comerc to the Passeig LLuis Companys and thru the Arc de Triumph. This is a really pretty small park lined with palm trees. From there we take Passeig De Sant Joan up thru the middle of the Eixample. We agreed we both liked this area a lot, the wider streets and architecture, totally different feel from the Born and Gothic. We actually passed a lumber place. Robin spotted it. A small store selling lumber. I had been trying to find out if there was a Home Depot equivalent there but no one knew what I was talking about so I was siked when we saw this place. Out comes the notepad and down goes the address. I had to peek in the window and imagine my delight when I spotted a 1/2 &quot; thick piece of Particle Board which is what I use! Yippee.

As we approach Placa de Tetuan we hear an awful crash sound and there in the middle of the street a vespa with man and boy on it hit by a car. So so scary. Thank god they were both unharmed but it was unnerving. I said, that's it no vespas! It is a fairly long walk, actually really long walk, one I had done before, the hardest part being after you cross Travessera because that last part is all uphill. Great for the thighs and ass, tough on the lungs. So right before there we stop at a small Placa for a couple o cafe con leche.

Here's one of the things I really loved about BCN, I saw no stray animals. I'm sure they got em, didn't see any. Lot's and lots of dog owners. They LOVE, LOVE, LOVE their pets there. Those pups go everywhere, in stores, cafes, restaurants. And a lot of big dogs, German Shepards seemed to be the large dog of choice and I saw more than one bulldog sitting on their owners lap at a cafe table. Sorry for the rant.

Anyhoo, we make our way up to the parc passing about 1/2 dozen chintzy gift shops and a boat load of people. Seems Parc Guell is the place to be on Sunday before noon. Place was jammed and I was happy I got so many great pix last time I was there. That poor mosaic salamander had kids of every nationality on it'd back. Now even though I have been to that park every time I've been to Bcn it never ceases to awe me. I mean this guy Gaudi was the original Dr. Suess and I'm pretty sure who-ville was designed using Guell as a model. Just amazing!

We hung around the park about an 90 minutes, started to get hungry, wanted to check out the area over by MACBA so we head out. Downhill much easier.We make our way over to Gracia The upper part of Passeige de Gracia known as Carrer Gran de Gracia. I thought I had died and gone to architecture heaven. I just love Art Nouveu and there was a ton of it! That area really reminds me of parts of Paris and Nice. Suddenly I was thinking I could live up here too, when those words come out of Robins mouth. I swear it's scary sometimes how we are on the same page. I said I was JUST thinking that. Building after building, look at that one, no look at that one. I don't know if may tourists walk up that far on Gracia to that area, but here's a plug DO! It is gorgeous! And we thought once again, might be a good place for a shop, maybe.

Note, I took most pictures, robin took a few but she hasn't sent them over yet. All shots w/ both of us are shadow shots, easier than asking someone to take a pic. Plus you never feel fat in shadow shots.

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Old Feb 3rd, 2008, 04:03 PM
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hey, laartista, any chance you need another partner? you sound like a hoot!

funny you mention the dogs. i tend to like canines better than humans, and i photographed each one i saw while we were there. knew i had to shift my focus when i recognized a pair at that i had seen earlier in the week!
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Old Feb 3rd, 2008, 05:11 PM
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laartista-I love Parc Guell. My husband and I still talk about how we want to build in benches on our back patio with the mosaic tile in them just like at Parc Guell!
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Old Feb 4th, 2008, 03:30 PM
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TTT;

I almost thought it was lost! Just waiting for more....
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Old Feb 4th, 2008, 04:41 PM
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great post, so jealous! I tried to convince the husband to move to bcn 2 years ago. Prices in the raval are much cheaper than nyc. but no go on his part--yet.

so true about borne area --I never could figure our why the area was considered the &quot;LES of BCN&quot;--it was not hip!

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Old Feb 4th, 2008, 05:34 PM
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Irego- that is very funny, they can be distracting the pups

If I wasn't moving Kristina I'd help out with those benches, I think it's my favorite part of the park

Glad you found it nam

and cherry bomb, couldn't agree more on Borne, liked Raval much better will get to that.

So we never did get anything to eat yet so we stop at cafe/pastry/pizza shop on Gracia. Each got an individual pizza type bread thing and a coffee- 20 E. Thought that was a bit much for that but I guess we were paying for the real estate. I think I pissed off the other diners by feeding the birds. Oh well.

WE continue our walk down Gracia to Plaza Catalunya where we continue onto Las Ramblas. Packed as usual, could only imagine what a madhouse it must be in the summer. Every time I have been to BCN it has been winter so have never seen it in it's full glory. We hang a right on Elizabet which takes us to the MACBA. Macba is the Museum of Contemporary Art. A cool looking building with colored windows. The open area in front of the museum doubles as a skateboard course. X-games might as well have been going on because those guys were flying around there. They are polite though, stopping w/ a smile to let you pass. MACBA is located in Raval, the upper part which has pretty much turned for the better unlike the lower part of Raval which is still pretty seedy.

Because it was Sunday around 4pm ( time flies when you are walking) pretty much everything in the area was closed and all we saw were graffiti covered metal doors that cover every storefront. We decide we'll have to return on Tuesday to get a real feel for the area, so we head back to Ramblas. Now, I remembered that Las Ramblas was home to many a painted performer standing on a milk crate but since I had been to BCN last there has been an upsurge in creativity among these guys. The get ups have gotten just so elaborate! From the gold guy on a unicycle who picked the wrong spot by setting up next to the creepy flying monkey from The Wizard of OZ, to the dueling butterfly chicks, there was cowboy guy, blue guy, vampire bat guy, you name it, the freak show was all there. And with the rest of the people we watched.

We continued our walk toward the Monument Colon. We wanted to go back and have another look around the port area.( I really want to live over there) We passed a craft market with a few dozen booths. Stopped to chat with some of the artists and got a cool pair of earrings and a few gifts. We spent a bit of time wandering the streets around the port before heading to Starbucks for a pick me up. Those who have read my trip reports before will know I consider Starbucks the mother ship while abroad. You can feel comfortable ordering in English and you always know what you are getting. PLUS, I collect their city mugs,they look cool, remind me of where I've been and hold a whole lot of coffee!

That day really flew by and before we knew it, it was 7 pm or so , we make it back to the hotel to rest for a bit. We had a 6 am flight in the morning to go see Diego the attorney in Marbella. We knew we wanted it to be an early night so we just pop over to Princesa 23, the place we ate at on Friday and grab some dinner, again the place was busy and like the other night food was good. This time we split a salad , stuffed mushrooms and meatballs in a gravy, some sangria around 30E.

Back at the hotel we hit the internet to check emails and such. It was about 10 pm we had a 4 am wakeup call for our flight to Marbella for a 5 pm meeting. Not the most genius plan ever hatched. Needless to say we were both exhausted and whining about having to go there. Now Diego had suggested we could do it by email but in a moment of stupidity I said oh we'll just come for the day. After much debate we decided to email Diego to let him know we had much to see still in BCN and could we do it by email. Well, we felt relieved plus we wouldn't have to get up at an ungodly hour. However we still had the matter of our pre-purchased tickets on Vueling to deal with.

OK i know this one is short but been working all day and my hands have had it so I'll continue this tomorrow.
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Old Feb 6th, 2008, 01:20 PM
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With the decision made to not go to Marbella we got on the Vueling website to see what our options were. The tickets are changeable for a fee of 30E each way on each ticket. That's almost as much as the ticket itself, plus you need to put the new date in. Well we had no idea when that would be, sometime in March, maybe early April. As we sit there trying to decide on a time to come back our discussion turned a bit heated.

Now we don't usually fight but we have had heated discussions before. Mainly because we both think we are always right. A fault I do acknowledge in myself. However this time I was right! Here's the thing, doing this kind of thing as fun and exciting as it sounds is extremely stressful. For months I had been doing research and planning with no help from Robin. She would offer but never come through. I tried to tell her this in the most diplomatic way and it boils down to this.

I'm the one taking all the risks. Robin is moving in with her boyfriend next week in part to save some money. She is going to continue to fly even after the move and has basically made a loose 1 year commitment to the business. So if things don't work out or if she is unhappy there she flies home, moves back in and still has her job. I on the other hand am backing the business financially, it's my business we are building on and my work, I'm giving up my apartment and basically uprooting my entire life and will be the one locked into a store lease. Therefore, I feel like I'm carrying the burden of this venture, not to mention I'm 42, 9 years older than Robin. 10 years ago I may have been more fancy free about it but now I feel I have to be at least somewhat practical. When I told her this she said she understood hadn't realized I was doing so much legwork, I asked where did she think all the info was coming from. We were both upset, she felt I thought I could do it alone, I told I could, but preferred not to. So she said then you feel your opinions regarding the business carry more weight? I said, yeah I think they carry all the weight. She said she completely understood and agreed, didn't know I was feeling that way and hadn't put herself in my shoes. We hug it out and all is good except never did decide on a new date so never changed the ticket and I think we are both out 115 bucks. Shit happens.

So Monday we slept in til about 10 got out of the room by noon and headed toward Poble Nou and Diagonal Mar which were the areas slated for that day. We start toward Port Olimpic and once down there think maybe we should try that place Agua on the beach that was full but not full on Saturday. It was dead around that area on Monday and n the way over I said wouldn't it be funny if that hostess said there is no room. ( I am totally foreshadowing)

So we walk up, it's 1:15, the place is empty with the exception of 3 tables full. So there are no less than 20 open tables. We say 2 for lunch. The guy asks if we have a reservation, I tried not to laugh, because THERE WAS NOONE THERE! I said no, do we need one. He said 1 minute and disappeared inside. Out comes the hostess Nazi from Saturday and asks about our reservation, I say no. She says well we are full you can sit inside. It's 65 degrees and 20 back home and we didn't want to sit inside. So I ask why can't we sit out here, she repeats again , we are full, I look her straight in the face and ask Are you serious, there's no one here! Oh but they are coming she says. Really? When are they coming? She looks at her watch and says 1:30-2:00. Well it's 1:25 and not a soul in sight. We were hysterical and I couldn't help laughing in her face. O.K. fine no thanks and we step onto the walkway and stood and watched as NO ONE came. Then I took out my little notepad and started writing, calmly, ever so often glancing at her, she got a bit squirmy, was I a reviewer, had she screwed up? Robin and I threw in a couple of whispers for theatrical purposes just to mess with her and left, laughing all the way to the seafood cafe where would dine on a steamed seafood platter and salad, outdoors!

After lunch we walk to Poble Nou an area still in the process of changes, a lot of artists have studios there but it kind of creeped us both out so we continue on to Diagonal Mar which is at the edge of the city it seems and completely out of the loop. It was a long desolate walk. Not much along the beach front, completely residential and way to far to live even if that's where all the new construction was and you could get more for your money.
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Old Feb 7th, 2008, 05:42 AM
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I have to backtrack to Monday morning before we headed to Port Olimpic. I had come across a real estate agency on line called Borne Living. After we grabbed our coffee we decided to drop by their office which was on the way. Turns out it's in an apt building ( w/ help from the local mailman) and noone answered. So we called, an Irish guy answered.

As we stand on the corner of Pg. Picasso and Av. Marques de l'argentera I proceed to have a conversation with a guy named Aiden, a PHD student who w/ some friends had started up this agency. At first he was less than helpful, but then I got to the part where I would need 2 apartments and a storefront and his tone quickly changed. He told me how apt. rental properties go fast and we would have to be prepared to sign right away. I didn't know how true that was because I had been following their listings for months with a lot of the same apartments not being rented, perhaps because it was winter. Anyway, then he got to the shop info. With every uh-huh, and yep, Robin looked on, trying to read my face which was slowly dropping. Ok thanks, I said I will email you.

When I hung up, robin said, what? what'd he say about a shop. Well,he said most places we would have to buy into a lease or sublet a lease and on top of the monthly rent which could be between 1000- 2500 E ( not terrible considering the rents in Hoboken are at least 2 times that after the exchange rate) it would cost around 30,000-40,000 E to get in a place.Plus a 3-5 year minimum commitment. WHAT! Yeah, that's what he said. This was the first I had heard of this. Previous research had led me to believe some people hold their lease and sublet. Needless to say it was a bummer, I can't afford that on top of the other expenses to open a shop. It was food for thought.

Fast Forward, a long walk with little to see brings us to Parc de Diagonal Mar. The architecture of the buildings around the waterfront in this area are really cool, very modern. There is a ton of new construction going on and in another 5 years this area could be hopping, but right then no. We decide to cut thru the park to Av. Diagonal. The park has a crazy sculpture that straddles the wide pathway. Reminds of that child's game with the round wooden pieces that you put sticks in to create a structure, the name escapes me. Every so often a gigantic hanging mosaic plant pot. a few more steps, a pond. Robin says is that a bronze statue over there on the cement wall by the pond or a really dirty homeless guy. I look, squinting and reply, a really dirty guy.

We liked this area a lot , it's just that it was so far away from everything you would move to BCN to be near to. We begin walking Diagonal and notice a large shopping area. Could use a coffee and a bathroom so we go in to Centre Comercial Diagonal Mar. This was a beautiful mall, nice shops, sort of busy considering it was Monday around 3pm. After a qick stop at the restroom and a to go coffee we pop into Zara who was having a crazy sale. I hadn't packed any light weight outerwear and only 1 sweater so I wanted to pick up a black cardigan, at 9.90 E a steal and that wasn't even on sale. After I paid I took a seat on a bench outside the store while Robin shopped.

As I sat there I kept thinking about what Aiden said. It occurred to me that maybe, just maybe opening a s=hop right away may not be the best idea. Did I want to pour that much money into a place not knowing if there was even a market for what I'd be selling. perhaps I should wait after being there a while to see if I even liked it. Maybe we should start with a cyber store. Then a whole bunch of other questions, is there much e commerce, what are the stats, maybe the website could be for all of Europe. Maybe we could do a huge advertising blitz hitting Interior designers and Architects, take ads out in the tourist guides, my mind was swirling, new ideas popping up every second. Get a studio space, set up a web shop, do a few art and gift shows around Europe and see how it goes. The main thing being start up costs would be so much less. Suddenly I felt much less stressed, this idea felt right.

I run back into Zara and pitch my ideas to Robin who is waiting in line to pay. I could see from the smile on her face she is liking this idea. So new plan, find a studio space.

Because we were so far and the walk back would be long we decide to grab a bus up Diagonal. We didn't stay on it very long, we spotted a starbucks and a cute outdoor shopping and entertainment area ( Centre Comercial Barcelona Glories) across from the gigantic phallic shaped building Torre Agbar. Clearly the architect has some issues. We get some java take a table outside,pull out the notebook and start jotting down, thoughts, ideas, costs a real pow wow.

We stop to get some photos of Agbar tower, walk around it. It is one crazy building and then go to the Metro station for our very first ride on the BCN metro, which is extremely easy to use.

http://tinyurl.com/3d8wvk
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