Barb's adventures from Barcelona to Paris
Oct 21st, 2011, 10:36 AM
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Barb's adventures from Barcelona to Paris
Please excuse any typos or errors in spelling as I am on my little laptop, so I will apologize up front and give any details if requested.
I arrived in Paris on the 19th having started my journey from Barcelona where fellow Fodorite Julia and I had a fabulous week. Temps in the hi 70’s and just lovely.
From there I left on the train to Collioure, France. It is a beautiful seaside town that was my vacation from my vacation destination for two nights and it did not disappoint. I stayed at the Hotel Bon Port, www.bon-port.com in a wonderful room with a panoramic view of the water and the town. It is maybe a 5 min walk to the town. Collioure is very tranquil and picturesque. I mostly just strolled the little alleys with lots of little shops and galleries. I actually took the little tourist train that takes you up above the town into the hills and vineyards. I rarely do this type of thing, but it was a nice way to see the whole area and to take some panoramic photos.
From Collioure it was back on the train to the next stop, Beziers. What a contrast! It is a small town and not a real tourist destination, but I really loved it. It seems more a working man’s town with people going about their every day lives. And, everyone I encountered was very friendly and patient with my limited French. The Cathedral is quite stunning as well as the views from there. I mostly just walked around taking in the morning market, which was rather like a huge flea market with everything from used clothes, shoes, collectibles and then fruits,vegs, cheese, olives, sausages. Very low key, but worthwhile. I stayed at Hotel Des Poetes, which was in a good location right on the park of the same name. It is budget, but had a little balcony and nice deep tub for a good soak, which I needed after that train trip. More on that later.
Then after 2 nights it was on to Dijon. As I got further north the weather took a turn, much cooler weather, but still sunny. I stayed at Hotel Le Jacquemart, www.hotel-lejacquemart.fr This was probably the nicest of the hotels and at a very good rate of 56 euros nit with a balcony and a spacious well appointed room and a nice tub, with a very generous breakfast at only 6 euros. The location was perfect, very central to everything. Unfortunately I arrived late on a Sunday and most things were closed. I managed to find one of the few places open for dinner and it was not great, so I won’t even mention it. Monday was another day of most things being closed. I was so looking forward to the well known market, but alas, it was closed too. I booked a wine tour through the tourist office, but I was the only one who showed up and therefore it was cancelled. So I was a little bit at odds and felt it was a rather wasted day. At this point I was quite frankly a little weary from the train travel and a bit depressed. Thankfully I was there for 3 nights. The next day was the turning point. EVERYTHING was open, wow what a difference that made. I signed on for a walking tour of Dijon, and again was the only one who showed, but it did not cancel and I had a wonderful private tour with a most delightful French woman who spoke very good English. I highly recommend the walking tours and at 6 euros, it was a bargain. The market, what can I say -- it is amazing, the outdoor one and the covered market. I would have killed to be staying in an apt so I could have shopped and cooked a wonderful meal for myself.. I shopped at the Maille store and bought two little pots of mustard, which they pack very nicely for travel and then to the shop the guide had recommended for a little bottle of cassis for yummy kir royales when I get home. BTW did you know that until 2 yrs ago, 90% of the mustard seeds came from W. Canada!! And now only 60%, who knew.
Had a really good dinner at Le Petite Roi de la Luna, cozy and welcoming place. So far my best meal in France. Starter of wonderful pate w/ warm crusty bread and the entrée of country ham in a light cheese and wine sauce with oh so wonderful crispy rounds of sautéed potatoes. Dessert was a gingerbread flavored crème brulee, superb!, with a glass of vin = 22 euro.
So Dijon did not start out so good, but ended very well.
Then back on the train to Paris!!
More to come if you are interested. And the woes of train travel with a small but heavy suitcase and going up and down many stairs, trying to figure out if I am on the right track, train and not quite the leisurely looking out the window at the beautiful French countryside that was the whole point of the train journey.
Left Dijon in the pouring rain, got soaked on the platform waiting for my train. Well that’s all a part of the travel adventure isn’t it.
I arrived in Paris on the 19th having started my journey from Barcelona where fellow Fodorite Julia and I had a fabulous week. Temps in the hi 70’s and just lovely.
From there I left on the train to Collioure, France. It is a beautiful seaside town that was my vacation from my vacation destination for two nights and it did not disappoint. I stayed at the Hotel Bon Port, www.bon-port.com in a wonderful room with a panoramic view of the water and the town. It is maybe a 5 min walk to the town. Collioure is very tranquil and picturesque. I mostly just strolled the little alleys with lots of little shops and galleries. I actually took the little tourist train that takes you up above the town into the hills and vineyards. I rarely do this type of thing, but it was a nice way to see the whole area and to take some panoramic photos.
From Collioure it was back on the train to the next stop, Beziers. What a contrast! It is a small town and not a real tourist destination, but I really loved it. It seems more a working man’s town with people going about their every day lives. And, everyone I encountered was very friendly and patient with my limited French. The Cathedral is quite stunning as well as the views from there. I mostly just walked around taking in the morning market, which was rather like a huge flea market with everything from used clothes, shoes, collectibles and then fruits,vegs, cheese, olives, sausages. Very low key, but worthwhile. I stayed at Hotel Des Poetes, which was in a good location right on the park of the same name. It is budget, but had a little balcony and nice deep tub for a good soak, which I needed after that train trip. More on that later.
Then after 2 nights it was on to Dijon. As I got further north the weather took a turn, much cooler weather, but still sunny. I stayed at Hotel Le Jacquemart, www.hotel-lejacquemart.fr This was probably the nicest of the hotels and at a very good rate of 56 euros nit with a balcony and a spacious well appointed room and a nice tub, with a very generous breakfast at only 6 euros. The location was perfect, very central to everything. Unfortunately I arrived late on a Sunday and most things were closed. I managed to find one of the few places open for dinner and it was not great, so I won’t even mention it. Monday was another day of most things being closed. I was so looking forward to the well known market, but alas, it was closed too. I booked a wine tour through the tourist office, but I was the only one who showed up and therefore it was cancelled. So I was a little bit at odds and felt it was a rather wasted day. At this point I was quite frankly a little weary from the train travel and a bit depressed. Thankfully I was there for 3 nights. The next day was the turning point. EVERYTHING was open, wow what a difference that made. I signed on for a walking tour of Dijon, and again was the only one who showed, but it did not cancel and I had a wonderful private tour with a most delightful French woman who spoke very good English. I highly recommend the walking tours and at 6 euros, it was a bargain. The market, what can I say -- it is amazing, the outdoor one and the covered market. I would have killed to be staying in an apt so I could have shopped and cooked a wonderful meal for myself.. I shopped at the Maille store and bought two little pots of mustard, which they pack very nicely for travel and then to the shop the guide had recommended for a little bottle of cassis for yummy kir royales when I get home. BTW did you know that until 2 yrs ago, 90% of the mustard seeds came from W. Canada!! And now only 60%, who knew.
Had a really good dinner at Le Petite Roi de la Luna, cozy and welcoming place. So far my best meal in France. Starter of wonderful pate w/ warm crusty bread and the entrée of country ham in a light cheese and wine sauce with oh so wonderful crispy rounds of sautéed potatoes. Dessert was a gingerbread flavored crème brulee, superb!, with a glass of vin = 22 euro.
So Dijon did not start out so good, but ended very well.
Then back on the train to Paris!!
More to come if you are interested. And the woes of train travel with a small but heavy suitcase and going up and down many stairs, trying to figure out if I am on the right track, train and not quite the leisurely looking out the window at the beautiful French countryside that was the whole point of the train journey.
Left Dijon in the pouring rain, got soaked on the platform waiting for my train. Well that’s all a part of the travel adventure isn’t it.
Oct 22nd, 2011, 09:20 AM
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TRAINS
As I said, I really wanted to experience train travel from the south heading north, hoping to relax, take in the wonderful views of the French countryside and do it before I got too old and feeble, ha, to be able to do it. Well, I’m not old, but I’m not as young as I feel most of the time. It was a challenge.
First of all, I do travel somewhat light, with just a 22” suitcase, although not exactly light, and a medium size Rick Steves backpack with lovely padded straps and a secure place for my little laptop. That would have been fine if I didn’t carry all my “electronic accessories, which in hindsight I used, but did I really need it??? US phone and charger, camera and charger, Europe phone and charger and Ipod charger, plus all the other things I would not want to lose if the suitcase (bag from hell, aka BFH) was lost or stolen. Wont’ go into details about that, but I am sure you know what I am talking about.
So--- From Barcelona to Figueres - no problemo, station in BCN is great and escalators to the tracks, also easy on and off the train as the train opens right onto the platform so I could wheel the BFH right on and there was a luggage area just as if I had ordered it. The exchange in Figueres, was simple as they whisk you off the Renfre right on to the TGV on my way to Perpignan. BTW, I printed most of my tickets online to take advantage of some PREM fares and just for the ease of it, EXCEPT the Perpignan to Collioure leg. I printed it off, but had to collect my ticket there. That’s where the real fun began. BE SURE TO TAKE THE SAME CREDIT CARD WITH YOU THAT YOU USED TO PURCHASE THAT TICKET!!!
I had 40 min. to catch my train to Collioure, but the line to pick up my ticket was SO long. I was starting to sweat. The very nice young French girl behind me line suggested that I try to get my ticket from one of the machines. She said because I had a confirmation number it would be easy, HA. Again, it asked for my credit card that I used to purchase the ticket. Then I tried to just buy a new ticket, but the machine would not take a card without the chip in it. Luckily one of the ticket agents saw that we were having a problem and took me by the arm to the front of her line and long story short, I did have to buy a new ticket. By this time I had 5 min to catch my train - again, down stairs, up stairs to the right track and onto the regional ter train. I had no idea where to get off for Collioure, they don’t announce stations and only stay at each stop for a nanosecond, but, I did manage to literally throw my bag off at Collioure!!
The rest of the train trips were better, but still hard trying to manage the BFH. And, the trains were packed, not leisurely and not what I had envisioned. Would I do it again, no. Do I regret it no. I am glad to be in Paris. No more trains. I will book a Taxis G7 to the airport online the night before I leave. I know the RER is easy, but the nearest to me is St. Michel and there are stairs to navigate down. It will be worth the price of the taxi not to have to deal with it.
I don’t mean to whine, but I thought I would give others a heads up on the trials and tribulations of train travel, alone, with a BFH and not being as young as I used to be.
PARIS
I won’t bore with you all the little details of any daily wanderings, but will point out some of the highlights so far. Because this is my 5th trip to Paris, I didn’t feel the need to visit any of the major sites again, so mostly I wanted to see some of the lesser known places on my list., if anyone is still reading this and interested.
As I said, I really wanted to experience train travel from the south heading north, hoping to relax, take in the wonderful views of the French countryside and do it before I got too old and feeble, ha, to be able to do it. Well, I’m not old, but I’m not as young as I feel most of the time. It was a challenge.
First of all, I do travel somewhat light, with just a 22” suitcase, although not exactly light, and a medium size Rick Steves backpack with lovely padded straps and a secure place for my little laptop. That would have been fine if I didn’t carry all my “electronic accessories, which in hindsight I used, but did I really need it??? US phone and charger, camera and charger, Europe phone and charger and Ipod charger, plus all the other things I would not want to lose if the suitcase (bag from hell, aka BFH) was lost or stolen. Wont’ go into details about that, but I am sure you know what I am talking about.
So--- From Barcelona to Figueres - no problemo, station in BCN is great and escalators to the tracks, also easy on and off the train as the train opens right onto the platform so I could wheel the BFH right on and there was a luggage area just as if I had ordered it. The exchange in Figueres, was simple as they whisk you off the Renfre right on to the TGV on my way to Perpignan. BTW, I printed most of my tickets online to take advantage of some PREM fares and just for the ease of it, EXCEPT the Perpignan to Collioure leg. I printed it off, but had to collect my ticket there. That’s where the real fun began. BE SURE TO TAKE THE SAME CREDIT CARD WITH YOU THAT YOU USED TO PURCHASE THAT TICKET!!!
I had 40 min. to catch my train to Collioure, but the line to pick up my ticket was SO long. I was starting to sweat. The very nice young French girl behind me line suggested that I try to get my ticket from one of the machines. She said because I had a confirmation number it would be easy, HA. Again, it asked for my credit card that I used to purchase the ticket. Then I tried to just buy a new ticket, but the machine would not take a card without the chip in it. Luckily one of the ticket agents saw that we were having a problem and took me by the arm to the front of her line and long story short, I did have to buy a new ticket. By this time I had 5 min to catch my train - again, down stairs, up stairs to the right track and onto the regional ter train. I had no idea where to get off for Collioure, they don’t announce stations and only stay at each stop for a nanosecond, but, I did manage to literally throw my bag off at Collioure!!
The rest of the train trips were better, but still hard trying to manage the BFH. And, the trains were packed, not leisurely and not what I had envisioned. Would I do it again, no. Do I regret it no. I am glad to be in Paris. No more trains. I will book a Taxis G7 to the airport online the night before I leave. I know the RER is easy, but the nearest to me is St. Michel and there are stairs to navigate down. It will be worth the price of the taxi not to have to deal with it.
I don’t mean to whine, but I thought I would give others a heads up on the trials and tribulations of train travel, alone, with a BFH and not being as young as I used to be.
PARIS
I won’t bore with you all the little details of any daily wanderings, but will point out some of the highlights so far. Because this is my 5th trip to Paris, I didn’t feel the need to visit any of the major sites again, so mostly I wanted to see some of the lesser known places on my list., if anyone is still reading this and interested.
Oct 22nd, 2011, 11:15 AM
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well the first order of business upon arriving in a rather chilly Paris was to buy a warm turtleneck sweater that I could wear under my black trench that didnt make me look like the Michilin man or a stuffed black sausage. Mission accomplished at a cute little boutique on rue Rennes. That done, I needed warmer socks, again mission accomplished at the Monoprix. My next goal was to the find the little jewelry store that my French idol, Ines de la Fressange (check out her videos on Roger Vivier's web page entitled Ines Little Diaries). She walks you around Paris visting little shops and one of her favorites is Les Bijoux d' Adeline, 54 rue Jacob. OMG, her pieces are stunning and so simple and elegant. I found the ring I have been dreaming about, but, it was 696 euors, so not in my budget. I have longed for that ring and left very disappointed. Can I eat beans and rice when I get home for the next month, no, but I will still dream about it.
Popped into Cozi on rue de Seine for a quick, but delicious salad and then shopped at the Carrefour for some supplies for the apartment on rue de Savoie. www.residences-paris.com
It is a tiny little place and maybe not luxurious, but fits my needs and is such a premier location.
Dinner was at Au Chai de l'Abbaye, 26 rue de Buci. It was just what I needed on a very cold evening, cozy and very welcoming. I am pretty sure I was the only non-french person in there, but the waiter was patient with my French. Starter was rillets de foie, which literally melted on my tongue and perfect with a glass of champagne. For my main, I've been told there is really only one dish to choose because it is so absolutely delicous, the morteau aux lentilles, smoked sausages over lentils. I am told that the tarte aux pruneaux is to die for, but I could not even think about dessert.
So all and all, a good first day in Paris!
Popped into Cozi on rue de Seine for a quick, but delicious salad and then shopped at the Carrefour for some supplies for the apartment on rue de Savoie. www.residences-paris.com
It is a tiny little place and maybe not luxurious, but fits my needs and is such a premier location.
Dinner was at Au Chai de l'Abbaye, 26 rue de Buci. It was just what I needed on a very cold evening, cozy and very welcoming. I am pretty sure I was the only non-french person in there, but the waiter was patient with my French. Starter was rillets de foie, which literally melted on my tongue and perfect with a glass of champagne. For my main, I've been told there is really only one dish to choose because it is so absolutely delicous, the morteau aux lentilles, smoked sausages over lentils. I am told that the tarte aux pruneaux is to die for, but I could not even think about dessert.
So all and all, a good first day in Paris!
Oct 23rd, 2011, 10:23 AM
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Glad to read you are surviving the chilly weather after the warmth of Barcelona. It is always difficult packing a small (!) suitcase to accommodate two differing climates and weather conditions.
Keep posting - I'm enjoying reading this, and recalling the lovely warm weather I had during the last week of October last year. I hope it warms up for you this week.
Keep posting - I'm enjoying reading this, and recalling the lovely warm weather I had during the last week of October last year. I hope it warms up for you this week.
Oct 23rd, 2011, 01:15 PM
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No, we talked about it, but we did not exactly do all the tourist things, so we weren't sure anyone would be interested, or if it would be particuarly interesting, but Julia, please help me out here with any details you would like to mention. Our little apartment was really great, except rather noisy at night. I, or Julia, can give you any details about it if anyone is interested.
Oct 24th, 2011, 04:55 PM
#14
This is another anyone who is interested.
Spent about 30 minutes looking at your Paris apartment agency. I've bookmarked it for future travels. Unfortunately, I think my next visit to Paris will be too short to warrant an apartment but you never know.
Spent about 30 minutes looking at your Paris apartment agency. I've bookmarked it for future travels. Unfortunately, I think my next visit to Paris will be too short to warrant an apartment but you never know.
Oct 25th, 2011, 09:01 AM
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I am having a wonderful time in sunny Paris. I've been walking a ton and also taking the metro all over town. Discovered a few new things and re-visited some of my favorites. I will write a full report when I get home, unfortunately leaving on Thursday morning.
Just a little tidbit to whet your appetite though. I did a day trip to La Ferte-Milon today with fellow fodorite Jeff, who is here for just a few days on his way to Sicily. It was just a wonderful day and felt like I had stepped back in time. This a charming little village, not on most people's radar, but very worth the hour trip on the very comfortable train. I FINALLY got the relaxing train trip through the lovely French countryside that I have been dreaming about. Not only were we the only tourists there, but very few locals were even walking around. Had lunch at Les Ruines, www.lesruines.com , a delightful French country lunch,which could be the highlight of my whole trip, truly, Again, something out of a movie. I will post all the details on how to get there and what to see. A photographer's paradise BTW.
Just a little tidbit to whet your appetite though. I did a day trip to La Ferte-Milon today with fellow fodorite Jeff, who is here for just a few days on his way to Sicily. It was just a wonderful day and felt like I had stepped back in time. This a charming little village, not on most people's radar, but very worth the hour trip on the very comfortable train. I FINALLY got the relaxing train trip through the lovely French countryside that I have been dreaming about. Not only were we the only tourists there, but very few locals were even walking around. Had lunch at Les Ruines, www.lesruines.com , a delightful French country lunch,which could be the highlight of my whole trip, truly, Again, something out of a movie. I will post all the details on how to get there and what to see. A photographer's paradise BTW.
Oct 25th, 2011, 09:09 AM
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I have also reserved a Taxi G7 to CDG, even though it is expensive (approx 60 euro) so the operator told me. So easy to do, you just call the number on their website, which I don't seem to have at my disposal at the moment, www.txig7.com and click on the English operator and it was very easy. Now, hopefully it will show up. Just couldn't face the BFH on the RER.
Oct 25th, 2011, 09:10 AM
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Sorry that should be - www.taxig7.com
