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Back from Paris - quick trip report from Seafox

Back from Paris - quick trip report from Seafox

Old Nov 18th, 2003, 05:18 PM
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Back from Paris - quick trip report from Seafox

We are back from Paris and I am happy to say saw the city in a new way this year. We had a trip of many firsts and Air France almost managed a hassle free flight to and from Boston. The trip over was smooth. On the way back we flew out of the new terminal for the first time. We arrived 3 ? hour before flight time (history has taught us that an arrival 2 to 3 hours prior to departure would jeopardize our confirmed seat assignment seat assignment). There was no line......joy of joys......15 minutes later we were through security. We enjoyed some duty free shopping and a bottle of wine in the some what hidden café across from gate 54. Boarding began on time.....and then it happened.....it seems that once the boarding gangway was filled with 200+ passengers it was decided that the jet way did not line up properly with the plane door.....we feared the worst.....30 mechanics gathered around the plane ( apparently it was an odd day in that no one was on strike) but happily a half hour later we were once again boarding.

The Apartment ? rented through rentparis.com #20 rue Chapon was a delight. We are done with hotels forever. Nikki ? many thanks for your recommendation and the warning about the entry ways state of disrepair,had I not been warned I would have been concerned. When the door to the apartment was opened, I was thrilled to see 14 foot ceilings, Napoleon III antiques punctuating the decor and a perfectly manageable kitchen. The washer/dryer machine was all Nikki warned it would be.....A full day to do a small load of laundry....but what fun! Fabrice the owner/manager was very careful to explain all of the apartments workings. We had a bit of a problem with the cable and it was solved by unplugging the cable box and letting it re-set. Much like home. Speaking of which.....Nikki, I read your comments in the guest book....home for us is only about 15 minutes from you....small world. For others using rentparis.com, one small note, the phone card you buy at the airport (to call Fabrice) can not be used with the phone at the apartment, so buy the least expensive card at the airport.

Food ? We found ourselves exhausted several nights and loved picking up food at the markets and/or Fran Prix and eating in. We did follow advice from Fodor friends and ate at Ambassade d'Auvergne. Loved the aligote (everyone must try it once in their life). As well as the entire meal?..be sure to try the warm lentil salad We also enjoyed meals at Ma Bougogne and really enjoyed the almost ?diner like? atmosphere at Chartier. Au Basou seemed to be closed all week....not sure why.

We attended a one day class at Le Cordon Bleu and had a great time. I was concerned about the cost (115 EU each), but in the end decided it was well worth the learning, the food, wine and experience. We will do this again.

Touring ? Based on some positive posts we contacted Michael Osman and asked that he give us two days of touring, some fresh perspective etc. I think my vagueness in my request mad him a bit nervous at first in that he wasn?t quite sure what to do with us?but he quickly worked out a plan and taught us a few valuable lessons. First, he got us off the metro and forced us to better understand the neighborhoods and how they connect. I believe I had never actually walked from Palais Royale to le Marais?..I always took the Metro?foolish me. Second, he showed us the Passages, but more importantly taught me that there is a whole side of Paris behind the Hausman buildings and the grand double doors. There are courtyards, almost neighborhoods within the pouter ?walls? of each block. I had a lot of fun trying to time my pace with people opening the large doors to their buildings. I saw glimpses of ?inside? Paris ? it was much fun. Michael was a real treat and at 74 EU / day I would recommend him to both the new traveler and the seasoned traveler looking for new perspectives. Michael can be contacted via http://www.geocities.com/parisfinder/ or by e-mail via [email protected]

We also brought B&W film with us and our 35 mm. I decided that the digital would provide too much safety and not force me to alter how I looked at the city through the camera lens. The pictures are back and I really enjoyed the new perspective I had as I took pictures. The results are grand?.many are post card quality. Thanks to those who let me know about the new B&W film that can be processed by a one hour color machine.

Degas ? your planned itineraries seem to work. I?ll admit we kept straying, but we did pieces of each. I tend to wander a bit....it?s my style. Do not miss taking the time to visit the Passages during business hours when shops are open?.again, a whole new Paris for us.

We took in the Paris Antique show at Place Bastille this year. It reminded me of the NY triple pier show of our Country?s recent financial hay day. The triple Pier show is down to one and like many shows here in the US suffering with the economy (The Boston Wendy show is still worth the trip!!). Paris is hanging in there..... antique lovers, plan to attend Paris next November.

Well?those are my initial comments, I?m sure as I see further posts and questions I will think of more ? thanks to all

Seafox
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Old Nov 18th, 2003, 05:32 PM
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folks - sorry about the annoying "?" in my report - not sure how that happened - must be the gremlins at work.
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Old Nov 18th, 2003, 05:37 PM
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Seafox: Thanks for your quick report. I'm starting to think about my first visit to Paris in 2006. The apartment idea had been absorbed from my visits here, and now I've bookmarked rentparis.com. Nikki's insights about the entry ways is quite helpful. Look forward to reading more.
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Old Nov 18th, 2003, 05:58 PM
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Hi seafox,
I really enjoyed your report. Made me 'homesick' for Paris
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Old Nov 18th, 2003, 06:20 PM
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So glad you liked rentparis.com I keep recommending them so am happy to have confirmation. I am convinced this is the way to go (an apartment). I rented from them for the month of May 2001 and they were great and very responsive. And, I have yet to beat the price of the apartments they offer. I shall look up your apartment.
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Old Nov 18th, 2003, 06:51 PM
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So glad you had such a great time..We had Michael do a tour for 5 of us 2 weeks or so ago..first for my DH and I, but a repeat for the others and you are right..he is a real delight and a definite asset to any trip! This was our 10th trip to Paris and even doing Le Marais after many times , doing it with him was very insightful. We gave up at 5 PM but he took our other 3 on to more places till 7 PM!! He is the best bargain in Paris.

We saw all the stands set up for the antique show near Bastille, and I can't even begin to to tell you how much we regretted leaving for home before it started. We had some friends ariving in Paris , 3 days after we arrived home and they attended. They said it was exceptional..and believe me they would know! They said they had lunch in one of the food tents and it was amazing!

We have next November marked on our calender already! If you are into antiques, have you visited Village Suisse, nr Ave Motte Piquet? The shops are wonderful, I think there are over 100..we spent a lot of time there. we made our best buys this year at Vanves..last year , it was a bust..but this year..a treasure trove!
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Old Nov 18th, 2003, 07:12 PM
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Bonsoir, Seafox, welcome home. I am smiling, thanks for the lift at the end of my day. Glad you liked the apartment, I was a little nervous waiting for your report. I don't know what kind of phone card you bought, though. I bought the kind recommended by rentparis (I think it was called prepaye) and it worked from the apartment, the phone booth at the airport, and the hotel phone when I returned to Paris in March.

So now I'm curious. If you want to send me a note at [email protected], I'd like to find out where you live.
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Old Mar 30th, 2004, 07:51 PM
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wonderful report, explain to me why arriving as they ask, 2-3 hours would jeopardize confirmed sears?
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Old Mar 31st, 2004, 05:52 AM
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We rented an apartment, too. I wish someone had warned me about the tiny combination washer/dryers in Paris apartments! Truly, ours could fit about 6 items of kids' clothes or two adult pairs of pants...and if we set the dryer on the maximium 150 minute cycle, the clothes were ALMOST dry...really made me appreciate our large capacity machines at home.

Funny that you should mention the cable...our worked fine for a few days...then we had about a day where everyone in the family tried everything they could think of and couldn't get the TV to work...then we somehow got it on...so after that, we just kept it on all the time, on mute.
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Old Mar 31st, 2004, 09:24 AM
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seafox, glad you enjoyed the walks. Sorry I missed you at Le Cordon Bleu, I was giving a lecture on fried okra and black-eyed peas another cooking school that day.
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Old Apr 5th, 2004, 06:02 AM
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cigalechanta - to answer your question in 2 words: "Air France"...to whom confirmed seat assignments mean nothing......by the by - love the book....Jeff
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Old Apr 5th, 2004, 06:04 AM
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Hey degas,

Welcome back.
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Old Apr 5th, 2004, 08:47 AM
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That tip,rentparis.com is going in my notebook. My friend and I returned from Paris and we did not see enough. If we can get the same vacation time next year, we would love to have a small apartment.
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Old Apr 5th, 2004, 09:37 PM
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Good trip report, thanks! Too bad, though, that you chose Cordon Bleu over Degas' okra and peas cookin' lesson.

A great gap has been left in your culinary education, Seafox, but then I don't suppose you encounter a whole lotta of okra at sea. Of course, once cooked, it is kind of hard to tell it from seaweed.
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Old Apr 6th, 2004, 01:19 PM
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Degas: kindly accept my apology. You mentioned fried okra, I was thinking of my first mother-in-law's STEWED okra. Big difference!

No okra tales from second mother-in-law, now deceased, though she did fry up a mess of chicken for us once in Chicago that we ate all the way to Augusta, Georgia.
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Old Apr 6th, 2004, 04:48 PM
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I use fried okra as fish bait - a tip I got at Cordon Bleu - sorry about that Degas
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Old Apr 6th, 2004, 05:45 PM
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Since we are digressing...Factoid: okra is a relative of the hibiscus.
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Old Apr 7th, 2004, 06:06 PM
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really - I'll admit my ignorance ...does it have as lovely a bloom?
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Old Apr 7th, 2004, 06:43 PM
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I guess you're not too fond of Air France? I'm hoping for the best from SFO nonstop to CDG.
There's a local AF office where I live and the agents are so friendly. I told the agent that when I last flew AF 5 years ago the plane was awful and the food was lousy. He says they've improved on both alot. I sure hope so.
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Old Apr 7th, 2004, 06:48 PM
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Francophile, we are going Airfrance and usually do. We do check in early so we can eat at Legal seafoods (in case we dislike the food on flight.)
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