Back from Italy - had great trip - WillTravel checking in
Jan 10th, 2005 | 06:40 PM
#1
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Joined: Jun 2003
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Back from Italy - had great trip - WillTravel checking in
I just got back today.
I didn't have the greatest start to the trip, as I was just recovering from a sudden, ferocious bug (as I posted on the forum at the time). But I got better quickly, and everything went perfectly once I got to Italy.
I had 4 nights in Venice, 4 nights in Florence, and 5 nights in Rome. I had no problems whatsoever of the types that are commonly associated with visiting Italy. The weather was ideal, and I never even felt any rain. Every day was a perfect strolling day. I went from place to place being charmed all the way. My accommodations were all budget (43-50 Euros/night), but all clean, comfortable, conveniently located, and with good breakfasts. I did many, many miles of walking.
I will give a full report and photos later, but just wanted to thank everyone for all the great advice and stories. For sure these all helped. There are so many Italy fans here and I am sure I learned something useful from every one of them.
I didn't have the greatest start to the trip, as I was just recovering from a sudden, ferocious bug (as I posted on the forum at the time). But I got better quickly, and everything went perfectly once I got to Italy.
I had 4 nights in Venice, 4 nights in Florence, and 5 nights in Rome. I had no problems whatsoever of the types that are commonly associated with visiting Italy. The weather was ideal, and I never even felt any rain. Every day was a perfect strolling day. I went from place to place being charmed all the way. My accommodations were all budget (43-50 Euros/night), but all clean, comfortable, conveniently located, and with good breakfasts. I did many, many miles of walking.
I will give a full report and photos later, but just wanted to thank everyone for all the great advice and stories. For sure these all helped. There are so many Italy fans here and I am sure I learned something useful from every one of them.
Jan 10th, 2005 | 07:26 PM
#5
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 45,322
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WillTravel, yes welcome back and I too will be looking forward to your report once you settle in being home.
How great you got over your bug (not a good way to start a trip overseas).
And how nice to hear that your trip was wonderful including the weather
How great you got over your bug (not a good way to start a trip overseas).
And how nice to hear that your trip was wonderful including the weather
Jan 10th, 2005 | 07:49 PM
#6
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 725
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Welcome back WillTravel. What a great way to start the new year - a trip to Italy. It's great that you got well and were able to have a good vacation. I'm glad to see you using the budget accomodations. I finally made it to Italy last year and definitely want to return. Again, welcome home!
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Jan 11th, 2005 | 05:01 AM
#12
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Joined: Jun 2003
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Here is a rundown on my Italian accommodations. I will post photos in a few days.
So let's start with Venice.
La Forcola, Venice
http://www.laforcolahotel.com
I stayed there Dec. 27-31. I booked it at 47.50 Euros per night through http://www.ryanairhotels.com .
My single room was small, but very clean. It had matching wallpaper, chair upholstery, and bedspread. It had hardwood floors. There were matching dark wood wardrobe, desk, chair, and bed.
The ensuite bathroom might be a bit quirky for American preferences, but it worked fine for me. As in many European hotels, there's not a separate shower enclosure, and I've found these a bit of a challenge in the past. But I figured out that if you shower while standing over the bidet, the water will not leak into the bedroom (plus I rolled up a towel and put it outside the bathroom door, although that turned out not to be necessary). The bidet and toilet are actually combined, and you lift the bidet cover to use the toilet. All in all, a clever use of limited space.
The breakfast was very good compared to what I have read of typical Italian breakfasts. There were fresh rolls, croissants, tortes, butter, jam, nutella, different selections of yogurt, juice, coffee, and cappucinos available on request. As throughout much of Italy, they played English-language pop music during breakfast. I seem to recall hearing several Beatles Christmas songs among others.
The staff was friendly. The location was walkable to anywhere if you wanted to do so, or you could walk about 100m to a vaporetto stop (San Marcuola). Of course there are tourists everywhere in Venice, but I found this area in Cannaregio had a pleasant mix of locals and fewer tourists. The grocery store Billa was not too far (and it is open - I think there was controversy about that before I left).
The only reason I would stay elsewhere would be to try a different neighborhood of Venice.
So let's start with Venice.
La Forcola, Venice
http://www.laforcolahotel.com
I stayed there Dec. 27-31. I booked it at 47.50 Euros per night through http://www.ryanairhotels.com .
My single room was small, but very clean. It had matching wallpaper, chair upholstery, and bedspread. It had hardwood floors. There were matching dark wood wardrobe, desk, chair, and bed.
The ensuite bathroom might be a bit quirky for American preferences, but it worked fine for me. As in many European hotels, there's not a separate shower enclosure, and I've found these a bit of a challenge in the past. But I figured out that if you shower while standing over the bidet, the water will not leak into the bedroom (plus I rolled up a towel and put it outside the bathroom door, although that turned out not to be necessary). The bidet and toilet are actually combined, and you lift the bidet cover to use the toilet. All in all, a clever use of limited space.
The breakfast was very good compared to what I have read of typical Italian breakfasts. There were fresh rolls, croissants, tortes, butter, jam, nutella, different selections of yogurt, juice, coffee, and cappucinos available on request. As throughout much of Italy, they played English-language pop music during breakfast. I seem to recall hearing several Beatles Christmas songs among others.
The staff was friendly. The location was walkable to anywhere if you wanted to do so, or you could walk about 100m to a vaporetto stop (San Marcuola). Of course there are tourists everywhere in Venice, but I found this area in Cannaregio had a pleasant mix of locals and fewer tourists. The grocery store Billa was not too far (and it is open - I think there was controversy about that before I left).
The only reason I would stay elsewhere would be to try a different neighborhood of Venice.
Jan 11th, 2005 | 05:22 AM
#13
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I forgot to mention for Venice above that the hotel has 24-hour service. There is a good lift. The TV featured only Italian options. My family had no problems phoning me at the hotel.
Also, I had a small terrace that I could step onto that overlooked a courtyard, and which I used to store cold foods.
Now on to Florence.
Casa Santo Nome di Gesu, Florence
Piazza del Carmine 21
http://www.fmmfirenze.it
I stayed here from Dec. 31-Jan. 4. The winter curfew time is 11 PM, but with my sedate tendencies I didn't find this a problem. They did make a special exception for New Year's Eve, and you could stay out until 1 AM, but I didn't make use of that.
I had wanted to try a convent to see what it was like. This is a lovely old palazzo, with very high ceilings. It has a library, albeit mostly with religious books in Italian and French. I did find a few tourist-oriented books, although none in English I don't think. But I suppose someone could donate a few. There is a common TV room, but once again all the options were Italian.
My room was very spacious by budget accommodation standards. Furthermore, the ceilings were perhaps 15-16 feet high (5m or so). There was a radiator in the room that has a cup attached that you put water in, presumably to prevent the air from getting too dry. There's a tall shuttered window that you can open and look out over the piazza. I found I could store some cold food between the doors to the shutters and the actual shutters (hope the design is clear). My only complaint is that the room did get cold at night, despite the radiators, presumably because of the high ceilings.
There is no lift, and it is 42-43 steps from the ground floor to the first floor. I think it's about the same from the first floor to the second floor. The floors have terracotta tiles. The place is very clean and bright.
The bed was very comfy. I had an extra blanket and pillow in the attached closet.
I chose not to have a private bathroom here to save a few Euros. I did have a sink in the room. There were always bathrooms available, and the showers and water pressure were fine. I had two fresh towels per day. These were of a material that I associate more with dish towels (although fluffier and more absorbent). They worked fine, though.
Breakfast was a bit more spartan than where I stayed elsewhere. There were regular rolls, croissants (I think), butter, jam, Nutella, apples, coffee, milk, and juice. But all nicely presented and the apples were a good touch.
Some of the sisters spoke English, although not all. They also speak Italian and French.
Every morning at breakfast I was given a dinner menu to fill out if I wanted to stay for dinner. For 14 Euros per night, I had a four-course dinner, although dessert was on the simple side (like fruit). Furthermore, I typically was given the option to have an "encore" for all of the courses. I purchased one bottle of wine for 7.50 Euros and used it up over the course of the four nights. Dinner is optional, but it was obvious to me I couldn't get a better deal in Florence and it was so easy and comfortable to eat there.
The location is in the Oltrarno, right next to Brancacci Chapel and Masaccio's famous frescos. I walked from the convent all over the place. I had posted an inquiry about taking the bus before I left. Most posters suggested not walking from the train station. So I did take the bus there, although I walked back uphill (about a 20-minute walk) on depature. I also took the bus from Piazzale Michelangelo after having walked up there. But otherwise I didn't take the bus anywhere, and walked from Brancacci Chapel to San Marco to Santa Croce and all over Florence. It just didn't seem worth it to try to wait for the bus.
The center of Florence was very crowded while I was there, and the area where I stayed was considerably less so. It seemed like a very pleasant area.
Also, I had a small terrace that I could step onto that overlooked a courtyard, and which I used to store cold foods.
Now on to Florence.
Casa Santo Nome di Gesu, Florence
Piazza del Carmine 21
http://www.fmmfirenze.it
I stayed here from Dec. 31-Jan. 4. The winter curfew time is 11 PM, but with my sedate tendencies I didn't find this a problem. They did make a special exception for New Year's Eve, and you could stay out until 1 AM, but I didn't make use of that.
I had wanted to try a convent to see what it was like. This is a lovely old palazzo, with very high ceilings. It has a library, albeit mostly with religious books in Italian and French. I did find a few tourist-oriented books, although none in English I don't think. But I suppose someone could donate a few. There is a common TV room, but once again all the options were Italian.
My room was very spacious by budget accommodation standards. Furthermore, the ceilings were perhaps 15-16 feet high (5m or so). There was a radiator in the room that has a cup attached that you put water in, presumably to prevent the air from getting too dry. There's a tall shuttered window that you can open and look out over the piazza. I found I could store some cold food between the doors to the shutters and the actual shutters (hope the design is clear). My only complaint is that the room did get cold at night, despite the radiators, presumably because of the high ceilings.
There is no lift, and it is 42-43 steps from the ground floor to the first floor. I think it's about the same from the first floor to the second floor. The floors have terracotta tiles. The place is very clean and bright.
The bed was very comfy. I had an extra blanket and pillow in the attached closet.
I chose not to have a private bathroom here to save a few Euros. I did have a sink in the room. There were always bathrooms available, and the showers and water pressure were fine. I had two fresh towels per day. These were of a material that I associate more with dish towels (although fluffier and more absorbent). They worked fine, though.
Breakfast was a bit more spartan than where I stayed elsewhere. There were regular rolls, croissants (I think), butter, jam, Nutella, apples, coffee, milk, and juice. But all nicely presented and the apples were a good touch.
Some of the sisters spoke English, although not all. They also speak Italian and French.
Every morning at breakfast I was given a dinner menu to fill out if I wanted to stay for dinner. For 14 Euros per night, I had a four-course dinner, although dessert was on the simple side (like fruit). Furthermore, I typically was given the option to have an "encore" for all of the courses. I purchased one bottle of wine for 7.50 Euros and used it up over the course of the four nights. Dinner is optional, but it was obvious to me I couldn't get a better deal in Florence and it was so easy and comfortable to eat there.
The location is in the Oltrarno, right next to Brancacci Chapel and Masaccio's famous frescos. I walked from the convent all over the place. I had posted an inquiry about taking the bus before I left. Most posters suggested not walking from the train station. So I did take the bus there, although I walked back uphill (about a 20-minute walk) on depature. I also took the bus from Piazzale Michelangelo after having walked up there. But otherwise I didn't take the bus anywhere, and walked from Brancacci Chapel to San Marco to Santa Croce and all over Florence. It just didn't seem worth it to try to wait for the bus.
The center of Florence was very crowded while I was there, and the area where I stayed was considerably less so. It seemed like a very pleasant area.
Jan 11th, 2005 | 05:25 AM
#14
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Joined: Jun 2003
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I forgot to mention that the main disadvantage of the convent for me is that there is no phone, which I did have at my other locations. I did buy a cheap phone card and phoned my family twice per day or so from a phone box.
Now onto Rome.
Hotel Julia, via Rasella 29
http://www.hoteljulia.it
I stayed here from January 4-9. I paid 50 Euros per night, which was pretty good considering part of my stay was during high season. I had a single room with an ensuite toilet and sink and hairdryer, and a bathroom down the hall that was to be for my "exclusive use". As it turned out, I think someone else used the bathroom a couple times even if they weren't supposed to. But this was a minor detail, as I only needed the shower, which was perfectly comfortable in my case (not small as described in other reviews). They could put an extra lock on the bathroom, though. Towels and toiletries were generous and replenished daily. The room was clean, and had a single bed, small wardrobe, chest of drawers, table, chair, and TV that was ceiling-mounted. Of course it was on the small side but you expect that in Europe for budget accommodation, and I felt very comfortable taking a break there and sleeping there. There was rarely any noise from the street and my sleep was never disturbed.
There is a lift and 24-hour service.
Breakfast was very good by Italian standards. I hope I recall everything available, but there were croissants, baguettes, jams and marmalade, cream cheese, butter, nut spread, yogurt, cornflakes, tortes, ham or salami, tea, coffee, real orange juice, other mixed juice, coffee, milk, tea, and cappucinos and other such hot drinks on request. No problems with quantity or quality and this was a great start to my day.
The staff were very friendly.
The location seemed ideal. It is close to the metro stop for going to St. Peters and the Vatican. Otherwise, I found it an easy walk to the Trevi, the Pantheon, Piazza Navona, Campo dei Fiori, and more. I did take the metro to the Colosseum, but that was more for a chance to take a slight break from walking. This hotel is about 100m from Piazza Barberini, so I can definitely recommend staying at the bottom of the Via Veneto. I enjoyed walking up the VV to the Villa Borghese one morning, and then back.
Now onto Rome.
Hotel Julia, via Rasella 29
http://www.hoteljulia.it
I stayed here from January 4-9. I paid 50 Euros per night, which was pretty good considering part of my stay was during high season. I had a single room with an ensuite toilet and sink and hairdryer, and a bathroom down the hall that was to be for my "exclusive use". As it turned out, I think someone else used the bathroom a couple times even if they weren't supposed to. But this was a minor detail, as I only needed the shower, which was perfectly comfortable in my case (not small as described in other reviews). They could put an extra lock on the bathroom, though. Towels and toiletries were generous and replenished daily. The room was clean, and had a single bed, small wardrobe, chest of drawers, table, chair, and TV that was ceiling-mounted. Of course it was on the small side but you expect that in Europe for budget accommodation, and I felt very comfortable taking a break there and sleeping there. There was rarely any noise from the street and my sleep was never disturbed.
There is a lift and 24-hour service.
Breakfast was very good by Italian standards. I hope I recall everything available, but there were croissants, baguettes, jams and marmalade, cream cheese, butter, nut spread, yogurt, cornflakes, tortes, ham or salami, tea, coffee, real orange juice, other mixed juice, coffee, milk, tea, and cappucinos and other such hot drinks on request. No problems with quantity or quality and this was a great start to my day.
The staff were very friendly.
The location seemed ideal. It is close to the metro stop for going to St. Peters and the Vatican. Otherwise, I found it an easy walk to the Trevi, the Pantheon, Piazza Navona, Campo dei Fiori, and more. I did take the metro to the Colosseum, but that was more for a chance to take a slight break from walking. This hotel is about 100m from Piazza Barberini, so I can definitely recommend staying at the bottom of the Via Veneto. I enjoyed walking up the VV to the Villa Borghese one morning, and then back.
Jan 11th, 2005 | 07:06 AM
#16
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 12,188
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I forgot to mention that La Forcola also served fruit cocktail, and Hotel Julia served canned peaches. I think both are unsweetened, and are exactly the same thing you get if you buy Del Monte or whatever. It was almost eerie. I found that having a good breakfast in a pleasant, cheerful room really helped give me a good start to the day.
Costs for the trip:
Transport
* $837 Canadian for the YVR-LHR flight (Vancouver to Heathrow)
* 52.40 pounds for the LHR-VCE flight on BMI (Heathrow to Marco Polo airport near Venice)
* 34.49 Euros for the CIA-LGW (Rome Ciampino to London Gatwick) flight
* 5.10 pounds for the London TravelCard one day pass Zones 1-6 (or was it 5.30?)
* 16.73 Euros for train travel from Venice to Florence (I couldn't get the next Eurostar, so had to take a route through Bologna, because I didn't buy tickets in advance)
* 29.40 Euros for train travel from Florence to Rome (nonstop on Eurostar)
* 8 Euros for Terravision coach from Termini to Ciampino
* 16 Euros for Rome transit pass (CIS)
* 9.70 Euros for Florence 3-day bus pass (a mistake, because I only took the bus twice)
* 22 Euros for Venice 72-hour ATAC pass (good for bus trip from airport and vaporettos)
* 10.50 Euros for additional Venice 24-hour ATAC pass
* 17 pounds for National Express trip from LGW to LHR
Accommodation
* $113.72 USD for two nights stay at Holiday Inn Heathrow Ariel (one night at the beginning and at the end)
* 190 Euros for stay at La Forcola (4 nights) in Venice
* 172 Euros for stay at Casa Santo Nome di Gesu in Florence (4 nights) (the dinner is lumped in with my other expenses at the end)
* 250 Euros for stay at Hotel Julia in Rome (5 nights)
Prepaid tours and tickets
* Performance at La Fenice 22.40 Euros
* Scavi tour 10 Euros
Other tours
* Enjoy Rome, three tours: Ancient Rome, Trastevere and the Jewish Ghetto, Vatican. 21 Euros each, so 63 Euros
Other lumped together expenses for all attractions, food, postcards, etc. for the entire 13-night stay in Italy:
* 708 Euros (give or take a few cents)
For my one half-day and two mornings in London near the airport:
* 20 pounds
This method of going through London worked well for me, given the prices that I would otherwise have to pay for direct travel to Italy, the fact that these would involve early-morning flights which I really dislike and quite likely with two connections, and the fact that I like to visit London even for brief periods when I get a chance.
Costs for the trip:
Transport
* $837 Canadian for the YVR-LHR flight (Vancouver to Heathrow)
* 52.40 pounds for the LHR-VCE flight on BMI (Heathrow to Marco Polo airport near Venice)
* 34.49 Euros for the CIA-LGW (Rome Ciampino to London Gatwick) flight
* 5.10 pounds for the London TravelCard one day pass Zones 1-6 (or was it 5.30?)
* 16.73 Euros for train travel from Venice to Florence (I couldn't get the next Eurostar, so had to take a route through Bologna, because I didn't buy tickets in advance)
* 29.40 Euros for train travel from Florence to Rome (nonstop on Eurostar)
* 8 Euros for Terravision coach from Termini to Ciampino
* 16 Euros for Rome transit pass (CIS)
* 9.70 Euros for Florence 3-day bus pass (a mistake, because I only took the bus twice)
* 22 Euros for Venice 72-hour ATAC pass (good for bus trip from airport and vaporettos)
* 10.50 Euros for additional Venice 24-hour ATAC pass
* 17 pounds for National Express trip from LGW to LHR
Accommodation
* $113.72 USD for two nights stay at Holiday Inn Heathrow Ariel (one night at the beginning and at the end)
* 190 Euros for stay at La Forcola (4 nights) in Venice
* 172 Euros for stay at Casa Santo Nome di Gesu in Florence (4 nights) (the dinner is lumped in with my other expenses at the end)
* 250 Euros for stay at Hotel Julia in Rome (5 nights)
Prepaid tours and tickets
* Performance at La Fenice 22.40 Euros
* Scavi tour 10 Euros
Other tours
* Enjoy Rome, three tours: Ancient Rome, Trastevere and the Jewish Ghetto, Vatican. 21 Euros each, so 63 Euros
Other lumped together expenses for all attractions, food, postcards, etc. for the entire 13-night stay in Italy:
* 708 Euros (give or take a few cents)
For my one half-day and two mornings in London near the airport:
* 20 pounds
This method of going through London worked well for me, given the prices that I would otherwise have to pay for direct travel to Italy, the fact that these would involve early-morning flights which I really dislike and quite likely with two connections, and the fact that I like to visit London even for brief periods when I get a chance.
Jan 11th, 2005 | 07:32 AM
#18
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 648
Likes: 0
Thanks, WillTravel, & welcome back. I really like reading your report, your approach to travel is refreshing and all the cost info is very helpful. If you have time to recount your experiences on a day-to-day basis, would love to read it. Also curious how you liked the Enjoy Rome tours.
Jan 11th, 2005 | 09:35 AM
#20
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 2,356
Likes: 0
Great trip report WillTravel, it's great to see how reasonably it's possible to travel and enjoy lots of time in Italy!
I'm inspired, since one of the #1 reasons we're holding off on going back is that we've got to save enough $$$!
Thanks! Trish
I'm inspired, since one of the #1 reasons we're holding off on going back is that we've got to save enough $$$!
Thanks! Trish
