We had an excellent 10-day trip to Florence and Rome in April. A few observations:

Florence
- We stayed at the Tourist House Ghiberti and can recommend it. Large room, good king-sized bed, good bathroom, excellent double-paned windows and a computer in the room.
- Friendly, comfortable, affordable resturant around the corner called Osteria Zio Gigi (Via F. Portinari, 7r)
- I came down with a four-day case of hives because I ate pasta cooked in squid ink (which wasn't even what I ordered!)
- I was bit on the arm by a carriage-horse in the Piazza delle Signoria. He was unapologetic.
- The Logia de Lanzi is under wraps.
- Do NOT sleep through your Ufizzi reservations. This error cost us three hours in line. Miserable!
- Florence was much more crowded and congested than it was 18 years ago when I was last there.
- A daytrip to Assisi is well worth the effort. The Basilica is awe-inspiring.

Rome
- We stayed at Fraterna Domus and can recommend it for travelers who are content with comfortable, adequate accomodations in an excellent, central location at an unbeatable price. Beds are comfortable, room was spacious and quiet. Dinners there were a great value - good basic fare in convivial surroundings. Convents are now high on my list of places to stay.
- We were in St. Peter's Square for the white smoke! This was the unintended highlight of our trip. Really, it was thrilling as the bells rang out and people poured into the Square for the announcement. Crowd control was excellent.
- I had been to Rome twice before and never cared for it. This trip made the difference for me and now I can't wait to go back. It just felt right this time. Honestly, I think being centrally-located was a huge factor.
- A large part of the Pantheon interior is under wraps.

General
- Restrooms were among the cleanest I've found in all of Europe
- I wore just one pair of shoes - and loved them every step of the way - from the San Antonio Shoe Company and they weren't all that ugly.
- My Flexipass was a good buy for first-class transportation roundtrip from Rome to Florence with daytrips to Assisi and Lucca
- Next time, I will take a pair of jeans with me. Everyone in Italy wore them except me. (unlike France)
- Loved my tri-band Motorola phone and SIM card.
- Italy was more expensive than a similar visit to Provence and Paris last year. But once I got over it, I had an incomparable time.
J

Julie, Thank you it's a wonderful and honest report. I'm happy how mention second time around, you had a different impression.

Julie, Thanks for the report. I'm sorry, but couldn't help but laugh out loud when you said the horse was unapologetic! I'm sure it wasn't funny at the time...

Would love to hear more! Where did you eat and was it good? What did you see? Where did you shop?

OK, so tell us what you did to the horse to cause him/her to bite you.

Thanks for the report, Julie.

Where did you get the Motorola phone and SIM card?

Hi J,

>Do NOT sleep through your Ufizzi reservations.<

Well, with hives and horse bites I guess you can be forgiven.

Thanks for the report, Julie. How exciting to be in Rome for the white smoke!

Of all my trip observations, the biting horse is clearly the most riveting. Enquiring Fodorites want to know!

It was completely the horse’s fault. I enquired about his rates and decided they were too high. As I walked past him he turned his head, leaned over and chomped my forearm. Shocked, I turned to my friend and said “Hey-that horse bit me!” and she took his picture. That is how I know he was unapologetic. I suppose his motivation was my penury.

SusanP, in terms of dining, we tried two restaurants near the Duomo that were just OK, and after we found Zio Gigi, we stuck with him. The menu was various enough to feed me and hold my interest for three nights, and the proximity to our B&B was a godsend after a day of walking. Another observation - Florence was much more pleasant in the evening when the crowds cleared. It's the best time to admire architecture without being overrun.

In terms of shopping, my favourite Florentine find was a small artist’s studio across from the Pitti Palace where I bought a beautiful oil on copper miniature of a Da Vinci Madonna. Once I paid for that, my incidental purchases were significantly curtailed. In Rome, my favourite shop was in Vatican City, where they sell handmade artwork and crafts from several European mission monasteries. I also found some Fontaninni crèche figures which I collect, and a beautiful priest’s stole for a friend of mine (for official wear, not a fashion accessory : )

LAwoman, I purchased my phone and SIM card from Telestial.com and it all went smoothly. I was glad I had it, especially when I called everyone I knew from St. Peter’s Square and told them to watch for me on TV. An alternative are the phone cards you can purchase at tobacco shops and use with any telephone.

Ira, thank you for providing me with a respectable excuse for oversleeping and missing my Ufizzi reservation!
J

Julie, Well, that horse had a lot of nerve! Thanks for the additional info. Of course, I want more...

Where is Zio Gigi? Can you give me an idea of cost?

Now on to shopping...Again, would you mind sharing an approximate cost of the oil painting on copper? That sounds like something I would really like. Do you remember the name of the studio? Maybe I don't even want to go in there if it's way out of my price range, as I'll be too tempted! Are all the paintings there religious in nature?
Thanks!

Hello Julie. I think that the horse that nipped you is just a typical Florentine. You have heard I am sure that although the natives have to "put up with the tourist for economic reasons" they really get sick and tired of the tourist. BTW, this is really true.

Soooo, the horse that bit you - he was just showing his displeasure at "one more tourist" LOL. The residents of Florence are known for being a bit snitty at times too.

I always remember my DH talking to a clerk in a men's clothing store where my DH was buying Italian silk ties as presents to bring back home to family members. He said "your English is so beautiful". The clerk said with a haughty look "just enough to get the money from the tourist".

Although I am often in Florence I have to admit it is not my favorite city in Italy. But shhhh, don't tell anyone!

Julie, did you try getting in with your Uffizi reservation? I was about 15 or 20 minutes late with mine (I'm rarely late, but I had just dawdled that morning) and they still let me use it. I was very grateful, as there was quite a line.

You clearly offended the horse,he was well within his rights to chomp,as you took a bite out of his pride in calling his services overpriced!Next time ,be sure to compliment his beauty before leaving,and maybe you'll be safe.

Julie, did you have to register your TIM card. The prepaidgsm.com site indicates that you have to have a codice fiscale number.

About that horse---his cousin must work in the Pantheon area of Rome where my husband was bitten. We were simply walking past. Fortunately, the horse mostly got his shirt and didn't break the skin on his chest. This was about three weeks ago. Funny to hear of some other similar experience. I, too, enjoyed Rome this time more than the last visit. We awakened early and enjoyed the Forum area (the area that was open) both before and after the crowds. We were there when the moon was full, and I have a couple of great pic's of the Col. with the moon. PJK

LOL re: the biting horse anecdotes (only as STORIES--sorry you both --Julie, and PJK's husband-- had to experience that).
Reminds me of Jeff Foxworthy's Blue Collar Comedy true story of the beaver who bit off a guy's nipple. So, coulda been worse for you in Italy!

Well the Biting Horse of Florence certainly has his apologists! "Typical Florentine annoyed with touristi"... "damaged pride" ..."learned it from his Roman cousin at the Pantheon"... In spite of this support, I stand firm and denounce his actions.

SusanP, Dinners range from 12-22 euros depending on how hungry you are. The house wine is adequate, but skip dessert here and get a gelato. Osteria Zio Gigi is at Via F. Portinari, 7r, off the Via M. Buffalini across from the hospital (the same hospital that would have treated me for a horsebite, if it proved necessary)

WillTravel, I didn't enquire about entering with an expired reservation, reasoning that even the most lenient Italian bureaucrat would be compelled to deny my request two hours later. I could argue that it's a matter of the same pride in one's work that motivated The Biting Horse.

Livvie, I am embarassed to say that I'm not sure what you're asking. Ah, but wait.. I think this has to do with registering the SIM card beforehand. Telestial did this for me after I sent them my passport information. (Note: Pre-registration is not required for horse carriage rides in the Piazza delle Signoria, though you should ask the horse to show his papers in case he behaves badly)

One additional plug for the location of Tourist House Ghiberti -- several busses to the railway station stops immediately opposite the entrance.

Time to decide where to go next Spring, and it's probably back to France. We loved the Luberon - any ideas?
J

" I had been to Rome twice before and never cared for it. This trip made the difference for me and now I can't wait to go back. It just felt right this time. Honestly, I think being centrally-located was a huge factor."

Please expand on this; what was it that you previously did not care for, and what is it that you encountered on this trip that changed your mind?

mdtravel, sorry it's taken so long for me to respond.
Here's why I think I enjoyed Rome more on this trip than the previous two:

I made a plan ahead of time to organize my time, which kept the visit from becoming hectic and confused. It also helped us balance activities so we were able to relax and not feel that we have to be moving every minute. Having nothing to do on a given afternoon is not altogether a bad idea.

I also budgeted enough money to eat well, buy what I wanted and take taxis when we were walked out. I never like to travel with financial stresses.

Finally, I really liked the area where we stayed, at Fraterna Domus near the Piazza Navona and the Ponte Umberto X. (The Hotel Portugese and Hotel Due Torre are also in this area. It was very central, quiet and strollable in the evening. It was interesting without being chaotic.

J

Julie-Boy I am feeling very smart-we overslept for our Uffizi reservation and I decided to brazen it out and it worked. Showed up at 11:15 for a 9AM reservation. We endured a tonguelashing but then zipped right in. This was quite a stretch for me because I went to parochial school and have a strong respect for authority.....also I'd paid for it!!!

Suehoff, next time I remember the advice from you and Willtravel instead of spending three agonizing hours in line.
thanks
J