s.fowler

Okay. The search is over for a hotel in Budapest! It's Hotel Victoria, 11 Bem Rakpart in Buda. EVERY room has a view of the parliament building and the chain bridge, both of which are lit at night. It is a very small 4 star hotel [about 27 rooms] with what seemed to be 3 star prices. Good breakfast, immaculate modern rooms. <BR>It IS a ten minute walk [or so] from the Red Line stop of Bathyany Ter... a shorter walk to the 'siklo' to Castle Hill. A walk across the chain bridge is very doable, even in the freezing cold grey weather we had. It is also an easy walk DOWN from castle Hill. [I wouldn't try up!]There is a Spar supermarket at the metro stop. Good source for wine and other comestibles for snacks and for gifts. [paprika for example] <BR>Remember that all museums in Budapest are closed on Monday, although that becomes a good day for the Central Synagogue and Jewish Museum [which is closed Saturday] as well as shopping. <BR>Eating? Next to the hotel is the Belgian Brassiere. Good food. Be sure to book. They fill up fast. One block towards the metro stop is a Hungarian restaurant called Duna-something. On the street behind I was told that there are a number of good restaurants. <BR>The best meal was at Bagolyvar ["owl castle"] just behind the Hungarian Fine Arts Museum and next to its parent restaurant, Gundels at Hosok Terre on the Yellow metro line. It is quite relaxed, not too expensive and the food, service and ambience are *excellent*! Again be sure to book ahead, particularly in the summer. <BR>If you are an art "maven" don't miss the Hungarian National Gallery in the castle on Castle Hill. It is the history of Hungarian paiting/sculpture, starting with some fabulous medieval altarpieces and ending up with an excellent collection of 20th century hungarian art. It is fascinating to see the hungarian "take" on art movements from further west.

Carol

Thanks much for the lowdown on Budapest. What did you think of the Muguet in Paris--hotel and location. <BR>Welcome back and happy holidays.

Maira

Sally: Glad you are back and that you guys had a good time when away!!! <BR> <BR>....I'm dying to know....what do you think about the Muguet? What did you enjoyed most about London this time around? Details, please.... <BR> <BR>

s.fowler

Thanks for the welcome backs <BR>Sorry to be so slow is filling you in on London and Paris, but we both arrived home sick. It was c-c-cold in Budapest. <BR>A few more Budapest details then I'll get to the other stuff. <BR>My sense was that Hotel Victoria was about $US100 a night. It may have been a winter rate, but it sure was value received for the $$. <BR>Dinner at Bagolyvar for 6 people with entree, 2 bottles of wine and desserts including gratuity was 19,000 huft, or <BR>under $US14 a person for well prepared food with excellent service in terrific surroundings. [Including music played on the Hungarian version of a hammered dulcimer!] Glasses were refilled often with mineral water [with "gas"] as generously as regular water would be in the US. <BR>The bill at the little Hungarian restaurant was 1,800 forints. 2 entrees, 2 glasses of wine and 2 small bottles of mineral water. [The brand I like is 'Apente'] That's less than $US5 a person. I had a well prepared traditional guylas. <BR>The hotel also had a prepaid voucher system for taxis to the airport.

laura

Did you feel safe in Budapest? I recently read an article saying that they were having gang problems. <BR> <BR>We were thinking about going in February. Do you think we are crazy...too cold? Its either Budapest or Vienna.

s.fowler

Good questions. <BR>Well it will be equivalently cold and grey both places... or it could be sunny... but not likely. Travelling in the winter takes more energy and patience I found. It's like kindergarten, you have to bundle up for every trip out! And your body does use energy trying to stay warm. On the other hand you can spend lots and lots of times in museums and cafes! <BR>I don't know how much time you have, but Budapest and Vienna are less than three hours apart on the train. Why not do both? <BR>Safety... hmmm... that's hard. Vienna is of course boringly safe. Budapest... well you do the things you do in any city to reduce your risk and walk fast away from anything that seems untoward... This is a complex issue for me. I go in and out of feeling "safe" in Budapest. Part of it is not knowing anough Hungarian to deal with a real emergency. Part is not knowing local habits and customs. Budapest isn't less safe necessarily than, say Paris. I just don't know the rules. I compensate by being very sure about where I am going and carrying my valuables in a wallet that loops over my belt and tucks inside my clothes. <BR>This last trip I did lose my wallet. It's not entirely clear that it was stolen, but I did lose it. Fortunately all I lost was cash and my drivers license because all credit/atm/debit cards and passport were in my moneybelt. <BR>I LOVE Budapest. Just travel alertly as you should anywhere and you will be fine. And DO stay at Hotel Victoria. You will LOVE it!

laura

Thanks fo rthe reassurance on Budapest. We would be coming from Prague and would have about 4 days to spend in Budapest or Vienna. We have a friend in Budapest who has a nice apartment so we would probably stay there. <BR> <BR>Thanks!

Aurora

Brother Fowler, this is exactly the kind of good info that this web site should carry. Congratulations! And I hope you are feeling better, rested, and back to normal. Budapest is such an interesting place, winter and/or summer. I will make a note of The Victoria. Sounds great. We were put up on tour next to a big railway station over in Pest. Had a huge McDonald's in the train station, no kidding. Great hotel, though. We found that Budapest, like Prague, is a wonderful city for walking. Walk, walk, walk...and eat, eat, eat.

s. fowler

Thanks for your kind comments. I can be kind of *opinionated*, but I guess strong views contain more information! And is SISTER Fowler. [the s.fowler 'handle' is left over from when I was being *very* careful on the web.] <BR>Revisiting safety: The metro ticket checkers wear little vests and armbands. And while they are firm, they aren't as scary as Prague. Just show your pass or your validated ticket and all will be well. NEVER show your passport or your money to anyone on the street. Ask for the police in a loud voice and the "false-police" will melt away, or so I am told. I haven't run into this, but it seems to have migrated from Prague to Budapest. The taxi situation is in flux. I've been told that Fo Taxi is no longer reliable. That seems to leave City Taxi. Just have some idea of what it should cost. Negotiate a price in that neighborhood before you get in. The meters have numerous settings, or so I am told. [I'm sure they are marked with local, tourist, really-gullible-tourist and let's-see-what we can-charge!] I avoid taxis in Budapest, opting for the metro and buses. [stops are well labelled with frequency and names of the other stops.]Don't forget to validate your ticket [not passes] on the buses too including the little "varbus" that goes from Moskva Ter to Castle Hill. <BR>

Anna

I'm planning a family trip to Europe next summer and would like to visit Budapest. Any thoughts on taking a 7 year old to Budapest, Prague, and possibly Krakow?

Aurora

Sister Fowler it is! And don't hold back on the opinions. I find that, like salt and pepper, opinions should be used in moderation. They add personal perspective as well as spice to travel writing. Just clearly label opinions as such, IMHO. Right?

s.fowler

The places you are planning to visit are, in my experience [through observation], very "child-friendly" cultures. Just be sure your child[ren] use the same rules as at home about staying close etc... <BR>I am sure there are people who might take advantage of your "distraction" with a 7 year old, but my guess is that many more will smile and/or reach out in the way that makes travel special! <BR>There are *plenty* of things in Prague and Budapest to fascinate a child. I'll try to post more later.

Anna

Thanks so much for responding. I look forward to reading your next post. I think it'll help to sway my sister to eastern Europe!

suzanne

Thanks for all your tips, a great help to our recent trip: <BR>We stayed at the Alba, by Chain Bridge on Buda side. Comfortable clean rooms( a little overheated for us- we left windows open),tub,tv, ample breakfast buffet, helpful staff. walking distance for Gellert, Rac & Kiraly baths, castle district & downtown over bridge. We paid about $50 dollars a night for room, although we were on package so exact price unknown. <BR>3 day transport ticket indespensible for travel freedom, cost 1400 HUF bought at Bettnany(?) Ter stop. <BR>Best meal at Bogylvar, we booked at lunchtime for saturday evening & got in. Portions v. large, we couldn't finish our delicious palascinkens!!! <BR>Hungarian places cheaper, but usually downstairs & smelt heavily of fried food. (Including Belgian Brasserie, which ruined my otherwise good garlic soup with 1/2 inch of grated cheese, although battle soup v. good). <BR>Buda-Pest restaurant on Castle Hill just down from Hilton, good, but wine overpriced and only half a bottle! + strange "tax" added to bill. <BR>Instead v. good & cheap coffee/book shop in courtyard opposite Hilton. <BR>Astoria food only adequate but prices not reflecting quality (luckily we were guests of freinds) would not recommend, and freinds said rooms falling to bits. <BR>Gerbaud- good cakes terrible coffee.-cold! but cheap for such luxury surroundings. Same for New York Cafe,fab place but hot chocolate watery, & no crisps or nuts with aperitifs! <BR>watch out for loony "guide" -with badge- at top of funicular, he was quite aggressive when his tour offer was turned down politely by us. <BR>For bath info go to "soaking" question. <BR>Bye. <BR>P.S. felt safe at all times, even walking up to castle at night ( we were 2 females)

dan

A word on safety in Budapest, for what it is worth. I never encountered any problems when there, but admittedly my night excursions were in a fairly limited area, mostly in Pest. I did walk with three others along the Castle Hill area by the river one night. I never noticed a real safety problems first hand. However, I was there on a business school tour, and one of our Hungarian guides was very adamant that we be very careful when out at night in small groups. We had asked him if it was safe for four of us to walk from the restaurant in Buda to the river, and he was not too fond of the idea. One of the students had her bag snatched on the subway - luckily, someone turned in her passport and credit cards to the U.S. embassy within two hours of the theft. <BR> <BR>I would just take the same precautions that you would in any big city.

anne

Thanks so much for all the great info! A few weeks ago we were asked the question "Where would you like to travel?", and eastern Europe was my answer. And now we have an unexpected trip to Vienna in July, and plan to go to Budapest for a few days..so I'll sure be taking advantage of your recommendations. <BR>Thanks for taking the time to share - I always enjoy your posts.

becky

Hello, as you just got back from Hungary, what is your overall,view of the place? we are worried about how we as the tourist will be treated, and how we will be judged when it comes to the U.S dollar. thanks

Linda

Becky, Budapest is a very interesting city and, though they have fewer tourists, you should have not problems with treatment or US money. In the downtown area & up on Castle Hill most places have English-speaking workers. We went out of the normal area &, while they didn't speak English, we had no trouble in communicating. If you need a place to stay, try Dr. Walter Fleps-retired English-speaking attorney. His home overlooks the city and you get a bathroom, bedroom with terrace & huge breakfast for around $40/night for 2. His address is Bogar utca 20b, 1022 Budapest, Hungary. The phone is 36-1-326-8170. They are a nice couple & you can get downtown by taking a bus to the metro & 3 stops, you are there. The Opera/Symphony Hall is very nice & seats are from $1.50-$13. Have a great trip.

Carol

Dear Anna, <BR> <BR>We travelled to Prague with a six year old and two year old, and met up with friends travelling with same. It is a wonderful city to take children--very magical feel to it. Lots of shops with toys and particularly puppets. The castle, bridge, astronomical clock, horse and carriage are all fun. Lots of walking, but that is so on any European vacation. Street vendors add to the feeling of being on vacation. <BR> <BR>We travelled to Budapest the following year (seven year old and three year old) with a family with four children, ranging from one year old to nine years old. This city is a little harder, as more walking from place to place, a bit more dreary. The kids loved Margaret Island and the boat ride. Castle hill and the shops are fun. We had a bad experience at the Best Western. I was distracted by the children and robbed on the train before it left the station. Luckily, the thief only got credit cards, no cash, no passport. The credit cards were cancelled at our next stop and we had no problems. But just another caution to be cautious. I had let my guard down, and chalk it up to my own mistake. <BR> <BR>We found a nice childrens book on Hungary in English at the gift shop of the Opera House. <BR> <BR>We also enjoyed visiting the flea markets, though it was hot and the children did not have as much interest as I did. <BR> <BR>Have fun! <BR> <BR>Carol <BR>

s.fowler

Pulling this to the top for Rex.