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Awe inspiring on the Amalfi Coast....an Albergo "Clash of the Titans"

Awe inspiring on the Amalfi Coast....an Albergo "Clash of the Titans"

Sep 28th, 2015, 12:02 PM
Join Date: Jan 2003
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Wow, you guys are YOUNG ! I always prefer photos with people in them.
Bedar is offline  
Sep 28th, 2015, 12:43 PM
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Great photos! Thank you for sharing.
LouisaH is online now  
Sep 28th, 2015, 04:39 PM
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Happy and relaxed was an understatement. The subject matter for the photos is excellent, so having good photos from the AC is pretty easy. Uh, Bedar...you're my new best friend!
denisea is online now  
Sep 28th, 2015, 05:34 PM
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Day 5

Day started out strong! A new item appeared on the breakfast buffet but it was a favorite from our trip to Rome. Technically, I think it is a zeppole but we call them amazeballs. These were not exactly as they were in Rome at the Cavalieri, these had kind of a lemon curd or pastry cream in them. I had one, we don't know how many Chaz had. And, yes, I had the two orders of bacon (thanks, Pepe) and no diet coke. Chaz is loving toying with me over the diet coke but I can't give in. I can do this!!

No kids, no SMMMIIILLLLE woman. But we were noticing little to no activity on the dock and hearing the waiters say the water was rough. Well, that's a fly in the ointment! We couldn't get a reservation on the sunset outing on the hotel boat and had scheduled to go out today. After the daily feed at the trough, we checked with the desk and the outing was cancelled. We re-scheduled for the next day and decided to check out the parts of Positano we had not seen yet. We got the lay of the land from the ride the previous day, so we headed out to see what we could see.

We walked away from the main beach to see the upper part on the other side of town. I found another sandals store but liked my original store better. I love the doorways in Italy! There are lots of shops to see. We eventually worked our way to Fornillo beach. Very nice to see up close. It has one of those watch towers at the far end and Chaz is intrigued by those. On the way down we saw several of these poor porters toting bags back up all those stairs. Not a job I think I would want.

That brings us to our trek back up the stairs. Holy cow. I am not a big sweat-er but climbing back up those stairs was a bit tough and I was sweating (so wishing I had put my hair up as it is thick and feels like fur, at this point). Yes, I need to lose 5-10 lbs and get back in shape! Will I cut back on this trip? Not a chance....I'm on vacation. I shoulda thought about climbing back up, while we were skipping down to see the beach. Lots of hotels and restaurants to check out along the way, so it didn't register that we would have to climb back up. We stopped by a pharmacy where Chaz purchased what was described as the BEST deodorant. Good to know we have the next deodorant and here it is, in Positano!

We were walking by Hotel Poseidon at the exact moment that the pair from Boston from our wine tour were coming out. It was nice to see them again and we chatted a bit about the wine and Positano before parting ways a bit closer to Le Sirenuse. It was nice to see them again...what are the chances?

The pool was sounding perfect after the Italian stairmaster! As we sat down, I noticed the couple next to us and he was reading the new book in the Girl with the Dragon Tatoo book, so I had to ask how it is (first by a new author since Stiegg Larson died before the books came out). And they told us the book was OK but shared the traveler's nightmare with us. His bag was lost and he had been without it for 3 days! They actually called the pool while we were talking and the bag had arrived....just in time since they were leaving the next day. The worst...even Le Sirenuse can't save ya from that vacation fate.

Pool, lunch, wine and yes, we got the same thing for lunch. I know, I know and the pasta at home will never be an adequate substitute so I have to eat as much of it as possible. We headed back in late afternoon to have some Rose on our terrace before dinner. I love our terrace, and our playlist, and the wine, and looking out at the dome of the church and those adorable, little hummingbirds that visit our flowers to fill up nectar (while we fill up on wine)...how will we ever leave this place?

Well, we'll leave to get a casual dinner. We decided to head down to La Pergola at Buca di Bacco. We knew we were risking a sub par dinner but we wanting a no fuss dinner. I was tired. We got a seat and our waiter was very friendly. We both hit some form a pizza and it was pretty good. We ended with some gelato and a huge bottle of water to take back with us. No tricks around the tip and I was surprised at how nice the waiter was. So often times, they are "over" tourists and so, are brusque...not here, I'd so back for something casual.

Oops, we did it again! The only downside of a restaurant choice on the beach was that we had all those stairs to climb to get back! We eventually made it back and had an early night.

Have I mentioned that the graphics on the TV music program they turn on at turn down service is really odd? We would laugh as it was kinda like a lava lamp that morphed into something that looked like cream being poured into coffee and would morph again into something that looked a lot like, uh, well, sperm swimming. I swear, it did. TMI?? Music, very relaxing but the onscreen visuals were just kinda odd. We always switched it over to BBC World for a few minutes before dozing off.

Next: near death near Nocelle!
denisea is online now  
Sep 29th, 2015, 03:02 AM
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Since I'm too lazy to do my own trip report, I hope you don't mind if comment on yours.

Those stairs and hills certainly helped justify all the pasta and wine consumption, didn't they? At least that's what we told ourselves.

We took the bus to Nocelle and hiked the Path of the Gods from there so I can't wait to hear your Nocelle story. It was over 90 degrees that day so we didn't do the full three hour hike but it was so delightful to get out of town and enjoy the even more incredible views.

We noticed the same thing about the fact that none of the ferries were running when we were enjoying breakfast from our terrace on the 15th. We had planned to take the ferry to Amalfi and then the bus to Ravello so we had to change our plans but we were able to do that the next day.
LouisaH is online now  
Sep 29th, 2015, 05:38 PM
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Day 6 and our last night at Le Sirenuse....

Maybe I was crazy from the lack of diet coke or maybe I felt bad for doing so very little on this trip, but we made a decision that nearly killed me! After that fabulous breakfast, we decided to check out the 1700 steps to Nocelle. I knew it would be tough (the steps from the beach yesterday were tough). The front desk at the hotel pointed us in the right direction, with a map, and off we went.

Here's a tip, don't wait until the sun is way up. We had quite warm, sunny weather. Great for the pool, not good for 1700 steps anywhere. There is almost no place where there is shade while doing this. After the first 500, I was seriously doubting the decision. We would see others walking down and I kinda wanted to fall in right behind them.

Next 500 steps, OMG, do I need to rest and get my heart rate down to just near heart attack instead of simultaneous heart attack and stroke. So, we don't really know how many steps we have actually climbed. When is it over? Are we there yet?

Another tip, for anyone wishing that they could die right there in the baking, roasting sun....when you stop to catch your breath, don't stop over a sewer vent and don't stop to rest where there are tons of rotting prickly pears. So glad that I ordinarily have a pretty strong stomach, or I woulda tossed by cornetto right there.
Chaz was a bit ahead of me and I was not happy that he could not tell me how much farther to go (I can suck it up as long as I know where the end is....finishing a marathon is proof if that). I wantd to crumple into a little puddle on the ground and cry like Nancy Kerrigan. "Why? Why? Whhhhyyyyy?

Up,up, up we go.....where it stops, no one knows. But I am stubborn enough to have to finish. No way was I going to just give up and head back down ( but I wanted to AND I wanted a diet coke). Chaz started to say he thought the stairs he was the end. I got my sorry self up and started climbing. It went on and on.

Finally we reached the top. I felt bad for not buying a lemonade from the guy selling them there. Now, if we had been really smart, we would have headed toward Bomerano and the Path of the Gods. We decided to go toward Montepertuso. The little village was charming and tiny. Lots of pretty little gardens and these people can grow tomatoes.

The views from up there are truly spectacular. And the path to Montepertuso is so lovely. We were both amazed at how beautiful it was up there. And yes, the pleasure was with the considerable pain.

All good things must end and as we passed La Tagliata, which I regret not going to, we realized that we would have to take the road down to Positano. By then a cure couple from Jersey and joined us. I think they thought we knew what we were doing. They were fun to chat with and we admired their desire to travel.

Walking down was also difficult and hard on those knees. And the sun was just baking us! We eventually made it back into town, near Le Sirenuse. Only a shower sounded good at that point.

After cleaning up, we had a wonderful lunch. Fresh ravioli with ricotta cheese and a fresh tomato sauce. Soooo good. We also got a fresh juice of Apple, carrot, orange was needed to recharge. Eventually, a glass of Champs to finish was in order.

I will split today in two parts. So, up next up "pushy in Positano"...the afternoon cruise to the Li Galli islands and our last dinner at the 'Nuse.
denisea is online now  
Sep 30th, 2015, 03:29 AM
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Loving this Denisea! We enjoyed La Tagilata, but I can assure you, we did not walk up there! I can't imagine, but good for you!
Ralstonlan is offline  
Sep 30th, 2015, 05:53 AM
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Denise-----I have been looking forward to this TR ever since you started planning Your "trip of a lifetime." As you, we have always wanted to visit the AC but put it off because of logistics.

I love the humor, details, and photos you have posted so far and look forward to more. Your room at Le Sirenuse looks absolutely perfect. The views, the weather, the wine, the hummingbirds---ahhhhh, take me away!

We are headed back to Paris next week. So many new places to visit, like the AC, but we wanted familiar and easy as we've had some health issues to deal with this year.

Carry on, I'm taking notes!
TPAYT is offline  
Sep 30th, 2015, 06:26 AM
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Hi Denisea, we love keeping up with your adventures on the AC. Sounds heavenly; except maybe for your 1700 step climb. We just returned from a few cities in Central Europe with those beautiful castles perched high on hilltops, but none of the climbs were that challenging. You and Chaz are ready for hiking the Grand Canyon!

We'll stay tuned for your next chapter.
tomarkot is offline  
Sep 30th, 2015, 11:25 AM
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Day 6 part 2....

We left off at pushy in Positano, I believe.

I gotta admit that the near death march to Nocelle took a lot out of us! This would be the most activity of any day on our trip and we were tired as we headed to the beach to board Le Sirenuse's boat for a trip to the Li Galli islands.

One of the down sides to staying at a place like Le Sirenuse is you will run into the pretentious peeps in Positano. There were 2 couples waiting there with us who were very busy one upping each other regarding Capri, Positano, Naples etc....hotels, restaurants, sites, whatever. No one was gonna be outdone. The female of the NYC double was one of those girls that would never leave the house without her jewelry, full hair and make up. I believe a fair amount of plastic surgery had been done to achieve a very specific look. Not my thing, nothing wrong with it and it does make her hard to miss.

We all got on the boat and the know it alls rushed to sun themselves on the bow and I was sure that they would all be BFFs forever bonded over knowing all the hottest, best places for anything one could want in any city.

Finally, on the water on the AC. Did I mention we were tired? I have to say that I am not much on social media and so not too concerned with how to take the best selfie. I found it hysterical to watch some of the couples and the constant posing and clicking. The pressure must be tremendous to post the perfect picture that says, young, thin, fun, time of my life, wish you were here to see how fabulous I am....is that mean? I tweet about 4 times a year, not on Facebook (though Chaz is)...I don't think I care enough about that kind of stuff to be good on it. Anyway.
View, view, view, yada, yada, yada and we were anchored off the Li Galli islands. I walked to the front of the boat to get towels and in time, apparently, to find out that the pretentious are PUSHY in Positano. What can ruin a BFF bond is the threat of getting "someone" wet, on a boat trip.

Went something like:
No, I am SERIOUS! Do NOT splash me! I will be pissed! I'm not kidding I am serious, I will be pissed . I DO NOT WANT TO GET WET! If you splash me and get me wet....don't. Blah, blah, blah...

Really? She is bossing her new BFF about not wanting to get wet on a boat trip. Please. I could not talk like that to anyone but certainly not to someone I just met. I also don't know why you would expect to be out on a boat and be a second away from freaking out if someone jumped in and splashed you. Woulda been so fun to push her in.

The water was chilly (for everyone except ol' hair and makeup from NYC). But it was refreshing and fun to be out there in it. Most of the group was really fun. I had fun watching NYC direct one of the crew on how to take the best pictures of her. A true eye rolling moment. A cocktail back on board and then a fun moment followed by a kinda sad one....

One of the crew had an octopus that he was showing everyone and we could touch if we wanted to. Of course, I decided to pet the little guy and at the same time asked "are you gonna throw him back"? Negative, calamari salad along with how to make the salad. I realize that this makes me a hypocrite as I like octopus and steak, etc....I just don't want to pet anything that is "dead man walking". I love animals (you will find out more about that later in the report). I spent the rest of the time trying to think of a way to rescue him from the bucket he was in, poor little guy.

We spent time working our way in and out of coves and all around the islands before heading back. One the way, another cringe worthy moment for both of us. We are observers. Another couple on the boat, young and had been busy with selfies earlier. I can't remember just want she did but it was something he didn't like regarding his iPhone. And he let her know in no uncertain terms like she was a child and certainly not his equal. You could see she was a bit crushed but also embarrassed by the way he spoke to her. I got a sense that this is part of their lives and that made me sad for her. It was a nice trip and made me glad to be who we are.

Here's another thing that made me sad....the realization that is was the last night in Positano and Le Sirenuse. We JUST got here didn't we? What if Monastero Santa Rosa was a disappointment? Why would we ever leave the 'Nuse? I began to pack a little bit as we listened to our playlist on our terrace one last time.

We headed to the bar and decided on cocktails for the night. Lemon Drop for me (very out of character for me but had seen someone compliment that drink and lemons on Amalfi seems appropriate). Chaz was wearing his best Don Draper sport coat and got the best Don Draper drink, an old fashioned. Both really good and we just enjoyed the terrace and the view. The weather at night has been so good.

Dinner was back at La Sponda and still all outdoor seating and no diners in the beautiful candle lit dining room. The memory of those steps was fresh in my. Ind, legs and everything else.

We had a linguine with squid, which wasn't my favorite but maybe it was the memory of my little friend from the boat. I had sea bass and Chaz had John Dory....both excellent! As tired as I was, I could not turn down the lemon soufflé for dessert. Then here came limoncello....I was seriously dead tired. Chaz kindly sent me to the room while he said our goodnights to everyone.

I hated to end the night early but I couldn't sit there anymore. I had to go to bed.
Chaz was back in the room pretty soon after. At least, we had one more breakfast before moving to the monastery!
denisea is online now  
Sep 30th, 2015, 11:55 AM
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Such a great read! Looking forward to your take on the monastery.
Weekender is offline  
Sep 30th, 2015, 12:51 PM
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Good job! You are my stair-climbing hero.
TDudette is offline  
Sep 30th, 2015, 04:10 PM
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In honor of you I came home and sprayed on some Eau D'Italie. We stayed just up the road at the Marincanto but we spent many hundreds at your champagne bar just watching all you "swell" types.
Weekender is offline  
Sep 30th, 2015, 04:42 PM
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I'm so enjoying your report and very curious to hear about the next bit too.
So much of what you write rings true to our experience, though not necessarily in the Amalfi coast,
we've had the misfortune of running into people like this too, they talk and talk and always assume they're the best travelled people in the group, very tedious.
welltraveledbrit is offline  
Sep 30th, 2015, 04:55 PM
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TD....just feel fortunate to have survived that climb... I am out of shape!

Weekender....I don't think we are really swell...we just played it for a week! I am traveling with my Eau dItalie shower gel and lotion this week, to get my fix! I love it and I remember you mentioned it In a post awhile ago.

Welltravelledbrit...thanks for reading and replying...totally right. We did chat with them a bit on the boat and mentioned Monastero Santa Rosa and they actually had not heard of it. They seemed disturbed that we knew about something they didn't!!
denisea is online now  
Oct 1st, 2015, 05:25 AM
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I got a really good chuckle with your eye-roll comment. When I travel w/my mom we don't even have to do the "eye-roll" we just have a special "look" between us to know we are thinking..."ugh...eye-roll"! ;-)

On another note, I'm intrigued with this Eau d'Italia, where did you find it? Could I get it in Rome? I've been looking for a new fragrance and this might just be what I need!
LowCountryIslander is offline  
Oct 1st, 2015, 06:20 AM
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Here you go:


Try Amazon, too.


We loved the people watching at Le Sirenuse! A fabulous place. Sorry my dates didn't cross with you or LCI at the del Senato. THAT would have been fun.
Weekender is offline  
Oct 1st, 2015, 06:42 AM
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Such fun to read this and looking forward to continuing along on your journey!
LouisaH is online now  
Oct 1st, 2015, 07:27 AM
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LCI....you can also look at lafco.com for Eau d'Italie. All the bath and shampoo products at Le Sirenuse are Eau d'Italie. Light, refreshing, love it!they sell it at the Emporio Sirenuse across the street from the hotel....not sure if you could find it in Rome. We all need an eye rolling signal...this girl did a lot of eye rolling worthy things. Good lord!

Weekender....I know! One day our paths will cross I hope.

Thanks everyone...hearing from you all is the fun part. I am sometimes amazed that anyone is reading, so glad to know you are out there!
denisea is online now  
Oct 1st, 2015, 07:51 AM
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Some day I hope to find the website where people post about the trip they took where they ran into people from Fodor's, and where THEY talk about how sorry they felt for those Fodor's people who seem to have a such a superior, judgmental attitude about other's people's conversations, make-up, interactions, reactions etc -- all the while looking so self-congratulatory and glad about being "who we are" instead of them.

Honestly, truly I am glad Denisea had a great time (other than climbing stairs -- which I do every day!!! Whoa, aren't I the better creature?) -- and I understand the rest of you thrill to hearing your judgments of other travelers in pretentious places confirmed -- but honestly too, I just lost it reading one more travel report where it turns out Mirror, mirror on the wall we're the fairest of them all is such a big thrill of traveling.

Who needs selfies when you've got trip reports?
sandralist is offline  

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