At the Risk of Being Crude: There Must Be Fifty Ways to Flush a Toilet: Trip Report from Rome, Florence and Pompeii.
Apr 23rd, 2008, 08:54 PM
#41
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It was 1997, just outside Siena, one of the best meals in my life in a tiny place I honestly cannot remember (damn that chianti) with only 12 tables. I kept coming back to tell the waiter I couldn't find the "bagno" or "toilette" and he kept saying latrina and pointed to the tiny kitchen at the back. Finally, I walked through the kitchen, and out the back door to see a horse stall that had been converted.(I vaguely remember the restaurant was a converted stable).
Inside the stall was one extremely low toilet designed for standing,(or leprechauns) crinkle 1960s toilet paper and the front door only covered the area from shoulders to knee. I couldn't stop giggling (which didn't help) as I tried to maintain my balance. All I remember after that is that I stopped drinking any water with the wine.
Inside the stall was one extremely low toilet designed for standing,(or leprechauns) crinkle 1960s toilet paper and the front door only covered the area from shoulders to knee. I couldn't stop giggling (which didn't help) as I tried to maintain my balance. All I remember after that is that I stopped drinking any water with the wine.
Apr 24th, 2008, 01:24 AM
#42
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To narrow down the location of Julius Caesar's assassination for your son go to
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34646917
Scroll down to 'Part 6' 'Curia Pompey'.
Great trip report! Regards, Walter
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34646917
Scroll down to 'Part 6' 'Curia Pompey'.
Great trip report! Regards, Walter
Apr 24th, 2008, 02:42 AM
#43
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This is great - I had a friend many many years ago who made a point to photograph urinals while traveling. At the time I thought it was weird. I retrospect I wish I had done the same over the years - there is an amazing assortment of the things out there in our world!
Apr 24th, 2008, 01:18 PM
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Glad I’m prompting memories down bathroom lane! Thank you for your encouragement – it prolongs the pleasure of the trip a little, I must say. And Walter, thanks so much for your detailed report on Julius Caesar – my son will so appreciate it.
CORRECTION: See, this is what the wine does to you. The restaurant we ate at with our guide from the Sistine Chapel was La Soffitta (Piazza Risorgimento 46, 06 688892977). Le Sorelle was later in the week.
Our first good night’s sleep, the breakfast buffet and we were ready for our 2nd day in Rome. We made reservations at Galleria di Borghese for 11 that morning. We got there a little early, booked an English Guide, pasted a number on our shirts for them to find us when the tour started and wandered outside. The Villa Borghese itself is absolutely beautiful – it was really the first spring day we had, lots of sunshine, not too hot and the gardens and grounds were gorgeous. As our guide came to tell us, this once was the retreat of the elite. Scipione Borghese’s little place in the Hamptons to get away from hustle and bustle of Rome and show off his art collection and do some serious partying.
And art he had! Caravaggios, amazing Bernini sculptures, the Raphael painting of The Deposition of Christ among many. Some of our favorites were: Canova’s sculpture of Paolina Borghese – for those of you who haven’t seen it, she’s sitting on a daybed, lounging and the intricate detail of the marble is incredible. And then there’s Bernini’s Pluto and Proserpina (Sometimes called the Rape of Proserpine) – Pluto’s hands are squeezing the leg of Proserpina and her skin is indented, the sheer size of it is overwhelming and the fact that it’s carved from one piece of marble is astounding. Bernini’s sculpture of Apollo and Daphne is fantastic as well. I so recommend hiring the guide – we got so much more detail than we would have on our own. We also got information that wouldn’t have been on the audio guide. We could have stayed for hours, but in order not to have crowds like they have at the Uffizi where I felt like a sardine, they do move it along. (http://www.galleriaborghese.it/borghese/en/edefault.htm)
Hungry and needing a place to rest, we headed out to look for lunch. We thought we’d hit one of the cafes in the park but after several wrong turns, my kids started sniping at each other about who should be in charge of the map. It got a little heated in the middle of the lovely gardens and as they were arguing, I realized we all still had our numbers pasted on our shirts. Nothing like a stern parental, “Number 5, give the map back to Number 6 and calm down.” It broke the ice, we all laughed and for the rest of the trip our kids were forever Number 5 and Number 6.
We left the park at Via Veneto and stopped at the first outdoor café we saw. We gave our drink orders and as he brought them with the menus, we realized we were at Harry’s Bar. We should have left then but we were tired and cranky. We had really just a snack and it was by far, for what we got, the most expensive food we ate in Rome. There are so many fabulous places to eat in the city and although the service was good and the food was fine, it was a total rip off. Only ourselves to blame.
Harry’s Bar Bathroom: in the basement, quite nice, push button on back of bowl, great hand towels with the Harry’s Bar logo imprinted and I took one, no idea why, but mainly so I wouldn’t feel so bitter about my 11 Euro (yes! 11 Euro) Coca light…
2 PM – “Pretty Woman’d” on Via Babuino….
My family wanted to read but feeling a little restless, I headed out for some shopping. I will tell you that on a whole, we tend to dress nicely when we travel mainly because we hardly do at home but being in a European city makes me want to try a little harder, be a little more fashionable. So I strolled up Via Babuino, one of the trendier shopping streets in Rome wearing my three quarter length black leather coat, nice pants, cool boots, great scarf, killer purse and bought a few things. On a whole, everyone in the shops was very nice, tolerated my feeble attempts at trying to speak Italian and I actually bought a couple of things for myself and as gifts for friends. A shirt in a storefront caught my eye and I wandered in. Immediately, I felt like Julia Roberts fresh off the streets of Hollywood in “Pretty Woman.” No, I didn’t look like a hooker but still felt the icy stare from a haughty salesperson who radiated, “what do you actually think you’ll find in here that will suit you?” Undaunted, I checked out their clothes, saw a shirt I really liked and politely asked, since there wasn’t a price tag, in Italian, how much did the shirt cost? She looked at me first with perplexity, then, as if talking to a three year old in pre-school, she said slowly in English, “It’s a shirt.” Dang! I had asked her, “Che cos’e questa?” (what is this?) instead of “Quanto costa?” (How much is this?). I thanked her, slunk out and immediately walked across the street for my first glass of wine of the day. It made me appreciate how hard my husband had worked the last year to learn Italian and made me want to work harder.
Later that afternoon, we walked down the street to Ara Pacis Augustae. It was something that caught my eye in the guidebooks and having just finished the biography of Augustus Caesar, definitely wanted to check it out. It’s a bas-relief from 9BC to celebrate Augustus’s success in battles abroad. It’s intricately carved and depicts in life size figures all of the people in his life that were important either socially or politically. Romans have mixed opinions about how it’s housed. Famed architect Richard Meier built a glass, stone and steel, very modern building and it leaves some people a little cold. The bas-relief was pretty interesting and promoted a discussion amongst us and I put it out to you: When is the last time you can remember an American having a monument built in their honor while they were still alive? There are scores of things in Rome and other ancient cities that are built during the lifetime of someone famous. For us, Mount Rushmore was at least ten years after Teddy Roosevelt died. Although we might rename airports and schools, we don’t tend to build monuments in our honor. We launch magazines like “O” or “Martha Stewart Living” instead…
http://en.arapacis.it/
That night we had reservations for one of our fancier dinners in Rome at Agata E Romeo. Great food and unlike Harry’s, worth the price. Some of the dishes we had were:
Flan of Aged pecorino Cheese with Pear sauce and honey
Risotto with fresh Fava Beans and lamb with braised artichokes.
And the wines were great and not too pricey as well.
For those of you with kids who might be a little finicky, I will say that every restaurant we went to was willing to prepare plain pasta for my son when he wasn’t feeling adventurous.
Agata E Romeo (Via Carlo Alberto 45, 06 446 5842)
http://www.agataeromeo.it/homepage_in.html
Restaurant bathroom: Had a seat, wall panel, but had to step on a pedal to wash hands.
NEXT: STRADDLE THE HOLE, COLE – the joy of Pompeian bathrooms
And Ancient brothels & the Amalfi Coast…
CORRECTION: See, this is what the wine does to you. The restaurant we ate at with our guide from the Sistine Chapel was La Soffitta (Piazza Risorgimento 46, 06 688892977). Le Sorelle was later in the week.
Our first good night’s sleep, the breakfast buffet and we were ready for our 2nd day in Rome. We made reservations at Galleria di Borghese for 11 that morning. We got there a little early, booked an English Guide, pasted a number on our shirts for them to find us when the tour started and wandered outside. The Villa Borghese itself is absolutely beautiful – it was really the first spring day we had, lots of sunshine, not too hot and the gardens and grounds were gorgeous. As our guide came to tell us, this once was the retreat of the elite. Scipione Borghese’s little place in the Hamptons to get away from hustle and bustle of Rome and show off his art collection and do some serious partying.
And art he had! Caravaggios, amazing Bernini sculptures, the Raphael painting of The Deposition of Christ among many. Some of our favorites were: Canova’s sculpture of Paolina Borghese – for those of you who haven’t seen it, she’s sitting on a daybed, lounging and the intricate detail of the marble is incredible. And then there’s Bernini’s Pluto and Proserpina (Sometimes called the Rape of Proserpine) – Pluto’s hands are squeezing the leg of Proserpina and her skin is indented, the sheer size of it is overwhelming and the fact that it’s carved from one piece of marble is astounding. Bernini’s sculpture of Apollo and Daphne is fantastic as well. I so recommend hiring the guide – we got so much more detail than we would have on our own. We also got information that wouldn’t have been on the audio guide. We could have stayed for hours, but in order not to have crowds like they have at the Uffizi where I felt like a sardine, they do move it along. (http://www.galleriaborghese.it/borghese/en/edefault.htm)
Hungry and needing a place to rest, we headed out to look for lunch. We thought we’d hit one of the cafes in the park but after several wrong turns, my kids started sniping at each other about who should be in charge of the map. It got a little heated in the middle of the lovely gardens and as they were arguing, I realized we all still had our numbers pasted on our shirts. Nothing like a stern parental, “Number 5, give the map back to Number 6 and calm down.” It broke the ice, we all laughed and for the rest of the trip our kids were forever Number 5 and Number 6.
We left the park at Via Veneto and stopped at the first outdoor café we saw. We gave our drink orders and as he brought them with the menus, we realized we were at Harry’s Bar. We should have left then but we were tired and cranky. We had really just a snack and it was by far, for what we got, the most expensive food we ate in Rome. There are so many fabulous places to eat in the city and although the service was good and the food was fine, it was a total rip off. Only ourselves to blame.
Harry’s Bar Bathroom: in the basement, quite nice, push button on back of bowl, great hand towels with the Harry’s Bar logo imprinted and I took one, no idea why, but mainly so I wouldn’t feel so bitter about my 11 Euro (yes! 11 Euro) Coca light…
2 PM – “Pretty Woman’d” on Via Babuino….
My family wanted to read but feeling a little restless, I headed out for some shopping. I will tell you that on a whole, we tend to dress nicely when we travel mainly because we hardly do at home but being in a European city makes me want to try a little harder, be a little more fashionable. So I strolled up Via Babuino, one of the trendier shopping streets in Rome wearing my three quarter length black leather coat, nice pants, cool boots, great scarf, killer purse and bought a few things. On a whole, everyone in the shops was very nice, tolerated my feeble attempts at trying to speak Italian and I actually bought a couple of things for myself and as gifts for friends. A shirt in a storefront caught my eye and I wandered in. Immediately, I felt like Julia Roberts fresh off the streets of Hollywood in “Pretty Woman.” No, I didn’t look like a hooker but still felt the icy stare from a haughty salesperson who radiated, “what do you actually think you’ll find in here that will suit you?” Undaunted, I checked out their clothes, saw a shirt I really liked and politely asked, since there wasn’t a price tag, in Italian, how much did the shirt cost? She looked at me first with perplexity, then, as if talking to a three year old in pre-school, she said slowly in English, “It’s a shirt.” Dang! I had asked her, “Che cos’e questa?” (what is this?) instead of “Quanto costa?” (How much is this?). I thanked her, slunk out and immediately walked across the street for my first glass of wine of the day. It made me appreciate how hard my husband had worked the last year to learn Italian and made me want to work harder.
Later that afternoon, we walked down the street to Ara Pacis Augustae. It was something that caught my eye in the guidebooks and having just finished the biography of Augustus Caesar, definitely wanted to check it out. It’s a bas-relief from 9BC to celebrate Augustus’s success in battles abroad. It’s intricately carved and depicts in life size figures all of the people in his life that were important either socially or politically. Romans have mixed opinions about how it’s housed. Famed architect Richard Meier built a glass, stone and steel, very modern building and it leaves some people a little cold. The bas-relief was pretty interesting and promoted a discussion amongst us and I put it out to you: When is the last time you can remember an American having a monument built in their honor while they were still alive? There are scores of things in Rome and other ancient cities that are built during the lifetime of someone famous. For us, Mount Rushmore was at least ten years after Teddy Roosevelt died. Although we might rename airports and schools, we don’t tend to build monuments in our honor. We launch magazines like “O” or “Martha Stewart Living” instead…
http://en.arapacis.it/
That night we had reservations for one of our fancier dinners in Rome at Agata E Romeo. Great food and unlike Harry’s, worth the price. Some of the dishes we had were:
Flan of Aged pecorino Cheese with Pear sauce and honey
Risotto with fresh Fava Beans and lamb with braised artichokes.
And the wines were great and not too pricey as well.
For those of you with kids who might be a little finicky, I will say that every restaurant we went to was willing to prepare plain pasta for my son when he wasn’t feeling adventurous.
Agata E Romeo (Via Carlo Alberto 45, 06 446 5842)
http://www.agataeromeo.it/homepage_in.html
Restaurant bathroom: Had a seat, wall panel, but had to step on a pedal to wash hands.
NEXT: STRADDLE THE HOLE, COLE – the joy of Pompeian bathrooms
And Ancient brothels & the Amalfi Coast…
Apr 24th, 2008, 03:17 PM
#46
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I have always commented that one could make a great picture book of all the flushing mechanisms. I remember a unique way on the Train between London and Paris (unique) to say the least but of course the very worst are the holes in the floor in some places in Italy. At the Swarovski factory, their seats whirled around a bit and were sparkly (somewhat like their crystal jewelry). Always very interesting but at times challenging. Halfpint.
Apr 24th, 2008, 03:53 PM
#47
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What a coffee table book the pictures would make!
Quick side bar about my husband and our dinner at Agata E Romeo.
Since our first trip to Italy in 2006, two of my husband’s favorite stories to tell around the dinner table that didn’t involve art or monuments had to do with food and sex, sort of. The food story is about the famed porchetta truck that travels from market to market in Tuscany and on it, sits a whole cooked pig. They slice thick slabs of pork and put in on crusty bread and it is, to this day, the best sandwich either of us has ever had. We chased that truck from Greve to Radda but never found it again. Like Harry Lime in “The Third Man,” it would disappear around corners leaving us in an empty town square, mouths watering for more pig.
The other story involves Italian women and their ability to walk across cobblestones, bumpy roads and dodge Vespas in the highest of heels imaginable. My husband would watch from a café in awe as if he were figuring out how they built the Verrazano Bridge. Not to be outdone and as a goodwill gesture for his new found Italian language skills, I decided to buy the spikiest of high heels to wear out to dinner on a few Roman nights. I thought to myself, I’m an American, dammit, I have the “can do” spirit, I have the “audacity of hope” that I won’t topple over and make a fool of myself. So after some heavy research, I bought the Cole-Haan Nike Air patent leather Fiona high heels. Nike Air! They’re BOUND to be comfy! I’ll be able to run across Via Del Corso and yell “Ciao, Aldo!” with the best of them! They felt good the 30 seconds I had them on in the store so I forked out the dough and left. As we stepped out for dinner that night, my husband looked down at my shoes and couldn’t be happier. We walked up to the taxi stand at the Spanish Steps and I would say within 5, oh, 3 minutes, I could no longer feel my toes. What gives? Does some sort of Novacaine come with Italian high heels? Or is more alcohol involved so they don’t care? All I know is, that as soon as we got to the restaurant and my feet were hidden under the table, I took my shoes off. And in the several hours we were there, some small Italian cobbler must have snuck under the table and replaced my shoes with a pair that had to belong to a toddler. I could barely get my Nike Air comfy high heels back on my feet. It’s the one time I didn’t feel bad about ordering grappa – it was what got me home that night. My Cole Haan Fiona heels have now been retired to “sitting shoes.”
Quick side bar about my husband and our dinner at Agata E Romeo.
Since our first trip to Italy in 2006, two of my husband’s favorite stories to tell around the dinner table that didn’t involve art or monuments had to do with food and sex, sort of. The food story is about the famed porchetta truck that travels from market to market in Tuscany and on it, sits a whole cooked pig. They slice thick slabs of pork and put in on crusty bread and it is, to this day, the best sandwich either of us has ever had. We chased that truck from Greve to Radda but never found it again. Like Harry Lime in “The Third Man,” it would disappear around corners leaving us in an empty town square, mouths watering for more pig.
The other story involves Italian women and their ability to walk across cobblestones, bumpy roads and dodge Vespas in the highest of heels imaginable. My husband would watch from a café in awe as if he were figuring out how they built the Verrazano Bridge. Not to be outdone and as a goodwill gesture for his new found Italian language skills, I decided to buy the spikiest of high heels to wear out to dinner on a few Roman nights. I thought to myself, I’m an American, dammit, I have the “can do” spirit, I have the “audacity of hope” that I won’t topple over and make a fool of myself. So after some heavy research, I bought the Cole-Haan Nike Air patent leather Fiona high heels. Nike Air! They’re BOUND to be comfy! I’ll be able to run across Via Del Corso and yell “Ciao, Aldo!” with the best of them! They felt good the 30 seconds I had them on in the store so I forked out the dough and left. As we stepped out for dinner that night, my husband looked down at my shoes and couldn’t be happier. We walked up to the taxi stand at the Spanish Steps and I would say within 5, oh, 3 minutes, I could no longer feel my toes. What gives? Does some sort of Novacaine come with Italian high heels? Or is more alcohol involved so they don’t care? All I know is, that as soon as we got to the restaurant and my feet were hidden under the table, I took my shoes off. And in the several hours we were there, some small Italian cobbler must have snuck under the table and replaced my shoes with a pair that had to belong to a toddler. I could barely get my Nike Air comfy high heels back on my feet. It’s the one time I didn’t feel bad about ordering grappa – it was what got me home that night. My Cole Haan Fiona heels have now been retired to “sitting shoes.”
Apr 24th, 2008, 06:42 PM
#52
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Agata E Romeo -- my husband and I had a great meal here, too, on our first trip to Rome. (we left our kids, 14 and 11, in the hotel with room service!)
The funny I thing I remember about that place was we were knocking and knocking on the door, and no one would come. we waited and waited and almost left, then started banging and someone finally answered!!
very chic place...
The funny I thing I remember about that place was we were knocking and knocking on the door, and no one would come. we waited and waited and almost left, then started banging and someone finally answered!!
very chic place...
Apr 24th, 2008, 09:34 PM
#53
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I'm enjoying this report a great deal and planning to pay more attention to the various facilities available on our next trip.
But I have to say that what I recall most clearly about several toilets in Italy was being stuck inside the stall or room because I couldn't under any circumstances figure out how to unlock the door!
Once in one of those modern hotels I used the bathroom attached to our room while my husband went to the desk with a question, without taking his key. By the time he got back I was in the bathroom, yelling as loud as I could through the doors that I was locked in. I think he finally went back to the desk and got someone to let him in the room and tell me how to open the bathroom door, but I can't swear to it; I think I've suppressed that memory!
Another time my sister disappeared from the table at a restaurant for an inordinately long time. I finally went to look for her and she was furious because she couldn't figure out the mechanism to unlock the stall door and thought it had taken me entirely too long to come look for her.
I don't think it's some familial genetic disability; someone else must have run into this problem, right?
But I have to say that what I recall most clearly about several toilets in Italy was being stuck inside the stall or room because I couldn't under any circumstances figure out how to unlock the door!
Once in one of those modern hotels I used the bathroom attached to our room while my husband went to the desk with a question, without taking his key. By the time he got back I was in the bathroom, yelling as loud as I could through the doors that I was locked in. I think he finally went back to the desk and got someone to let him in the room and tell me how to open the bathroom door, but I can't swear to it; I think I've suppressed that memory!
Another time my sister disappeared from the table at a restaurant for an inordinately long time. I finally went to look for her and she was furious because she couldn't figure out the mechanism to unlock the stall door and thought it had taken me entirely too long to come look for her.
I don't think it's some familial genetic disability; someone else must have run into this problem, right?
Apr 25th, 2008, 08:25 AM
#54
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dina4
That's bizarre! The other thing about Agata E Romeo and one other place we had dinner, is they had what looked like little foot stools next to the table. I wasn't sure if they were actually for my throbbing feet (doubtful) or a place to put your purse so it wasn't on the floor. We set our purses on it...
That's bizarre! The other thing about Agata E Romeo and one other place we had dinner, is they had what looked like little foot stools next to the table. I wasn't sure if they were actually for my throbbing feet (doubtful) or a place to put your purse so it wasn't on the floor. We set our purses on it...
Apr 25th, 2008, 11:17 AM
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Italy06, you said, in speaking of showers,
"But still, when I stepped out the door of the hotel, I wasn't in the San Fernando Valley... Worth the inconvenience as I'm sure you agree!"
Absolutely! That's why were going back for the 15th time!
"But still, when I stepped out the door of the hotel, I wasn't in the San Fernando Valley... Worth the inconvenience as I'm sure you agree!"
Absolutely! That's why were going back for the 15th time!
Apr 25th, 2008, 05:21 PM
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italy06,
Really enjoying the trip report. What a great theme! Isn't it the truth? I've been hugely entertained by the variety of flushing methods in Europe, not just Italy.
My best was the one in the British Pub in Montemarte, Paris. Yes, the plastic covering tube over the seat revolved when you flushed. WHERE did it go???? I was the first to use and could hardly stop laughing as I told the others to "wait and see"!
Do continue!
Really enjoying the trip report. What a great theme! Isn't it the truth? I've been hugely entertained by the variety of flushing methods in Europe, not just Italy.
My best was the one in the British Pub in Montemarte, Paris. Yes, the plastic covering tube over the seat revolved when you flushed. WHERE did it go???? I was the first to use and could hardly stop laughing as I told the others to "wait and see"!
Do continue!
Apr 25th, 2008, 07:19 PM
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Dayle
I thought the same thing! Where did it go? Plastic revolving seats coming in our next restaurant and surprisingly one of the most efficient bathrooms was the Autogrill on the highway. Pompeii and Amalfi next....
And Charnees, when do you leave?
I thought the same thing! Where did it go? Plastic revolving seats coming in our next restaurant and surprisingly one of the most efficient bathrooms was the Autogrill on the highway. Pompeii and Amalfi next....
And Charnees, when do you leave?
Apr 25th, 2008, 08:04 PM
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What a great trip report italy06, I just read it today and chuckled the whole time.
I always remember my first experience with the hole in the tile floor..back in the 1970's, I was sooooo glad I was wearing a skirt and not pants, lol.
I always remember my first experience with the hole in the tile floor..back in the 1970's, I was sooooo glad I was wearing a skirt and not pants, lol.
Apr 25th, 2008, 08:25 PM
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italy06, my husband and I, along with 2 other couples, will be in Italy for 2 weeks in September. Your report is immensely helpful (such an anemic compliment) and I plan to send this thread to my friends.
I am loving this report . . .
I am loving this report . . .
