ASCOLI PICENO to LECCE'S Piazza S.ORONZO..Due Settimane Splendido
May 17th, 2012, 10:48 AM
#21
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I will attempt to curb my enthusiasm,and pay attention to paragraphs!!I need to get this all down in a short period of time since once we leave town for our summer place my computer assumes a Pugliese style and takes VERY lengthy rests!!
TRANI:It takes us 3 1/2 hours to drive from Ascoli to Trani via Autostrada to a connector road at Altamura.We approach Trani on roads lined with marble fabricators,huge stretches of them,with piles of marble slabs everywhere.We enter Trani's "new town" and thread our way thru to the "lungomare" and finally to p. Pleblecito and Albergo Lucy,which occupies 3 stories of a building on the square and facing the truly lovely public gardens.We Meet Luca, the manager,and are shown to our immaculate,simply furnished room with balcony on the third floor.It is Saturday in Trani,the"pearl of Puglia" and we join the streams of people strolling everywhere.We start with the 'lungomare",the broad street that skirts that gorgeous,brilliant blue sea. The fishing boats are all painted an even deeper blue ;the cafes are full;the streets are full,and everyone seems happy.Eventually we find our way to p.Duomo,an enormous white,open space leading to the tall,glistening cathedral with its backdrop of blue,blue sea.We join one of the many high-schools groups crowded around the ornate entry and listen to their teacher as he calls attention to the carvings illustrating the birth of Christ;the flora;the fauna,the richness of it all.We entered a stunningly plain interior,the result of restoration work which stripped away the Baroque embellishments of the 19C ......Lots to see and worth a leisurely visit.
Leaving the church,we set out to explore the really narrow streets of the old town,with some marvelous facades hinting at Trani's prosperous past,and found ourselves in front of DUE CORTI where we had hoped to have dinner that night.It was not to be,since it was closed to the public that night for a wedding party.The manager kindly suggested we try il Gallo on the Lungomare,for dinner.We walked by on our return to our albergo,but it was already shut.
As we were returning to our room for a rest we met the manager,Luca and asked if he knew anything about GPS complications.Within five minutes he had re-programed and re-loaded our GPS,which functioned perfectly for the remainder of our time in Puglia.Its name now, is Luca .
After a rest and time to look down from our balcony at the passing parade,at around 8:30 we joined the passagiatta [ ?] and to il Gallo for dinner.
Leaving the cool beauty of the church,we wended our way thru tiny streets and found ourselves near Due Corti
TRANI:It takes us 3 1/2 hours to drive from Ascoli to Trani via Autostrada to a connector road at Altamura.We approach Trani on roads lined with marble fabricators,huge stretches of them,with piles of marble slabs everywhere.We enter Trani's "new town" and thread our way thru to the "lungomare" and finally to p. Pleblecito and Albergo Lucy,which occupies 3 stories of a building on the square and facing the truly lovely public gardens.We Meet Luca, the manager,and are shown to our immaculate,simply furnished room with balcony on the third floor.It is Saturday in Trani,the"pearl of Puglia" and we join the streams of people strolling everywhere.We start with the 'lungomare",the broad street that skirts that gorgeous,brilliant blue sea. The fishing boats are all painted an even deeper blue ;the cafes are full;the streets are full,and everyone seems happy.Eventually we find our way to p.Duomo,an enormous white,open space leading to the tall,glistening cathedral with its backdrop of blue,blue sea.We join one of the many high-schools groups crowded around the ornate entry and listen to their teacher as he calls attention to the carvings illustrating the birth of Christ;the flora;the fauna,the richness of it all.We entered a stunningly plain interior,the result of restoration work which stripped away the Baroque embellishments of the 19C ......Lots to see and worth a leisurely visit.
Leaving the church,we set out to explore the really narrow streets of the old town,with some marvelous facades hinting at Trani's prosperous past,and found ourselves in front of DUE CORTI where we had hoped to have dinner that night.It was not to be,since it was closed to the public that night for a wedding party.The manager kindly suggested we try il Gallo on the Lungomare,for dinner.We walked by on our return to our albergo,but it was already shut.
As we were returning to our room for a rest we met the manager,Luca and asked if he knew anything about GPS complications.Within five minutes he had re-programed and re-loaded our GPS,which functioned perfectly for the remainder of our time in Puglia.Its name now, is Luca .
After a rest and time to look down from our balcony at the passing parade,at around 8:30 we joined the passagiatta [ ?] and to il Gallo for dinner.
Leaving the cool beauty of the church,we wended our way thru tiny streets and found ourselves near Due Corti
May 17th, 2012, 11:40 AM
#23
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Super! I'm still here (although I'd prefer to be in Trani!)
That linen of marble yards was fascinating. Pietra di Trani..I noticed it elsewhere in Italy after I drove that road.
http://www.pietraditrani.net/
That linen of marble yards was fascinating. Pietra di Trani..I noticed it elsewhere in Italy after I drove that road.
http://www.pietraditrani.net/
May 17th, 2012, 07:13 PM
#24
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Annhig,we were not able to dine at Due Corti.it was closed for a wedding party.
eks...The plethora of marble everywhere along that road was not artful.it seemed mostly abandoned.I thought about the cost of my neighbors gorgeous marble counters,and decided I would not tell her about that bit !!
We entered il Gallo about 8;30,passing 15 or so, empty outside tables,asked the manager for a table and were informed the were 'complete"...not a table to be had!!My husband indicated we had been sent over by Due Corte people,and we would not have another opportunity for an evening meal in Trani.Miraculously he relented and we were shown to a small side table inside the arched,white-washed dining-room with touches of chartreuse and beautifully appointed tables.Were it not for the gorgeous basket of tiny rolls flecked with pepper and lovely small taralli,we could have been in New York City or L.A.This was not 'cucina povera'!! Tall,slim stems filled with prosecco were placed in front of us along with a small sampling of crudite.Then a waiter served us a starter of carrot custard topped with tiny,fresh pink peppercorns...in a martini glass....Molto elegante and delicious.The menu featured various large platters of mixed "crudo"....selections of raw fish and shellfish as well as generous offerings of fresh fish,and I was eager to sample them,but we opted for a more traditional start for our first meal in Puglia,and ordered a primo of "gnoccitini"....capsule-sized,and topped with tiny mussels and octopus,also tiny.It was delicious.We followed with a grilled Dorata,which was superb and was served with some mixed vegetables.A crisp,white Puglia chardonnay was a perfect pairing for the food,which we enjoyed in our very private dining-room.When we left the restaurant,around 10;30,people were just beginning to be seated inside.The out-side tables were full.
We entered the streams of people on the street,many eating huge ice-creams cones...everybody happy....and it soon seemed as though the throngs of people had massed in the piazza of our albergo...but not really!!We retired to our room,closed the shutters to block out the sounds of laughter,shouting,loud-speakers blasting music,and then around mid-night ,fireworks.It did not quiet down until 2 A.M.We began to wonder if our "room with a view" was a good idea.We also needed a solid night's sleep to prepare us for the rigors of the next day....lunch at Massiera Barbera
eks...The plethora of marble everywhere along that road was not artful.it seemed mostly abandoned.I thought about the cost of my neighbors gorgeous marble counters,and decided I would not tell her about that bit !!
We entered il Gallo about 8;30,passing 15 or so, empty outside tables,asked the manager for a table and were informed the were 'complete"...not a table to be had!!My husband indicated we had been sent over by Due Corte people,and we would not have another opportunity for an evening meal in Trani.Miraculously he relented and we were shown to a small side table inside the arched,white-washed dining-room with touches of chartreuse and beautifully appointed tables.Were it not for the gorgeous basket of tiny rolls flecked with pepper and lovely small taralli,we could have been in New York City or L.A.This was not 'cucina povera'!! Tall,slim stems filled with prosecco were placed in front of us along with a small sampling of crudite.Then a waiter served us a starter of carrot custard topped with tiny,fresh pink peppercorns...in a martini glass....Molto elegante and delicious.The menu featured various large platters of mixed "crudo"....selections of raw fish and shellfish as well as generous offerings of fresh fish,and I was eager to sample them,but we opted for a more traditional start for our first meal in Puglia,and ordered a primo of "gnoccitini"....capsule-sized,and topped with tiny mussels and octopus,also tiny.It was delicious.We followed with a grilled Dorata,which was superb and was served with some mixed vegetables.A crisp,white Puglia chardonnay was a perfect pairing for the food,which we enjoyed in our very private dining-room.When we left the restaurant,around 10;30,people were just beginning to be seated inside.The out-side tables were full.
We entered the streams of people on the street,many eating huge ice-creams cones...everybody happy....and it soon seemed as though the throngs of people had massed in the piazza of our albergo...but not really!!We retired to our room,closed the shutters to block out the sounds of laughter,shouting,loud-speakers blasting music,and then around mid-night ,fireworks.It did not quiet down until 2 A.M.We began to wonder if our "room with a view" was a good idea.We also needed a solid night's sleep to prepare us for the rigors of the next day....lunch at Massiera Barbera
May 18th, 2012, 03:02 AM
#25
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Can't wait for Masseria Barbera!
I know what you mean about that line of marble yards...it was so unexpected to see them there, in such profusion, one after another. And now that you mention it, we did not see any activity when we were there, either, but our visit was on a Monday.
Take a look at the website for Il Gallo restaurant (note music):
http://www.ristorantegallotrani.it/
I know what you mean about that line of marble yards...it was so unexpected to see them there, in such profusion, one after another. And now that you mention it, we did not see any activity when we were there, either, but our visit was on a Monday.
Take a look at the website for Il Gallo restaurant (note music):
http://www.ristorantegallotrani.it/
May 18th, 2012, 03:57 AM
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ek...Thanks for the lead to il Gallo.Ironically,the background music playing is the "first song " my husband and I danced to at our wedding....long ago !!
I seem to have a disturbing Mac/Fodor glitch.For the second time,I have lost a lengthy piece i have written.My computer freezes, all attempts to proceed fail,and for the second time I lost what I had spent a long time composing.It is LOST.I will get an appointment at the Apple store and see if they can help.in the meanwhile I will try to reconstruct what i had just written,but in shorter sequences.UGGH !!! If anyone has any suggestions...
We awake to a silent Sunday morning Trani,after a night of talk,laughter,loud-speakers blasting music,fireworks at midnight,and finally quiet at 2 A.M.After cappucino "con doppio"....a double shot of espresso cappucino,we set off for Bisceglie,just down the coast,and what a beautiful place it is with acres of gleaming white marble slabs against the bright blue Adriatic.As we stroll,with just a very few people on the Lungomare,we first notice two or three divers,withe masks and spears swimming, and then a line of colorful umbrellas with tables piled high with........??
As we approach we realize they are selling Ricchi...sea urchins,as well as heaps of sea barnacles,and out in the water were the guys spearing them.As we walked cars would drive up,and sacks of urchins would be carried away for Sunday dinner.Repeatedly we were offered samples,but because I have a violent reaction to clams,and we feared a possible allergic reaction,we declined,and continued our walk in lovely Bisceglie.
It was a perfect morning,the only kind we had during our entire stay in Puglia,as we set forth for Minervino Murge on the SP230,with Luca confidently guiding us through miles of wheat fields,acres of poppies...and olive trees.We drove through the Parco Nazionale dell"Alta Murgia,and the "Strada del Olio" to the edge of Minervino with numerous steel tanks....filled with olive oil.Driving up and into the town,we parked and walked up the stairs to the church at the top of the hill for a view down the main street.From inside the church came the sweet sounds of violin and piano and the voices of people singing.WOW !!
We walked down the long street lined...and I mean lined....with groups of men;men sitting or standing in groups,talking...with not a single woman in sight.As we started back up the hill again,past all the men.....women and children were pouring out of the church.Minervino is a lovely town,but it was almost 1 P.M.,and time to drive up the long,cyprus lined drive to Massiera Barbera.
I seem to have a disturbing Mac/Fodor glitch.For the second time,I have lost a lengthy piece i have written.My computer freezes, all attempts to proceed fail,and for the second time I lost what I had spent a long time composing.It is LOST.I will get an appointment at the Apple store and see if they can help.in the meanwhile I will try to reconstruct what i had just written,but in shorter sequences.UGGH !!! If anyone has any suggestions...
We awake to a silent Sunday morning Trani,after a night of talk,laughter,loud-speakers blasting music,fireworks at midnight,and finally quiet at 2 A.M.After cappucino "con doppio"....a double shot of espresso cappucino,we set off for Bisceglie,just down the coast,and what a beautiful place it is with acres of gleaming white marble slabs against the bright blue Adriatic.As we stroll,with just a very few people on the Lungomare,we first notice two or three divers,withe masks and spears swimming, and then a line of colorful umbrellas with tables piled high with........??
As we approach we realize they are selling Ricchi...sea urchins,as well as heaps of sea barnacles,and out in the water were the guys spearing them.As we walked cars would drive up,and sacks of urchins would be carried away for Sunday dinner.Repeatedly we were offered samples,but because I have a violent reaction to clams,and we feared a possible allergic reaction,we declined,and continued our walk in lovely Bisceglie.
It was a perfect morning,the only kind we had during our entire stay in Puglia,as we set forth for Minervino Murge on the SP230,with Luca confidently guiding us through miles of wheat fields,acres of poppies...and olive trees.We drove through the Parco Nazionale dell"Alta Murgia,and the "Strada del Olio" to the edge of Minervino with numerous steel tanks....filled with olive oil.Driving up and into the town,we parked and walked up the stairs to the church at the top of the hill for a view down the main street.From inside the church came the sweet sounds of violin and piano and the voices of people singing.WOW !!
We walked down the long street lined...and I mean lined....with groups of men;men sitting or standing in groups,talking...with not a single woman in sight.As we started back up the hill again,past all the men.....women and children were pouring out of the church.Minervino is a lovely town,but it was almost 1 P.M.,and time to drive up the long,cyprus lined drive to Massiera Barbera.
May 18th, 2012, 05:18 AM
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We arrive 15 minutes early at Masseria Barbara,with just a few cars in the lot,and stroll through the lovely grounds,Only a few GROUPS of people are milling around,and we are not sure of where the entry is.We sit on a stone wall under a glorious flowering tree and soak in the loveliness of the day and the place.Eventually a young man approaches us and asks if we have a reservation.We tell him we had booked months ago,he thanks us and leaves.A few minutes later we notice people drifting towards a door,and we join them.The young man who had spoken to us earlier guides us to a table for 2 in an entryway....a space isolated from all the other guests.We explain that we would so much like to be in the midst of things,he smiles and takes us inside to one of the large dining-rooms where huge potted plants are moved,a table is carried in from another room,and we are settled into a spot where we can truly be a part of Sunday at Masseria Barbera.the kind young man who moved the furniture to make a place for us told us that groups of people make reservations a year or more in advance,and it is unusual to have just 2 guests to a table.He asked where we were from,and is delighted to learn we live in the same town as President Obama.
Within moments,the room begins to fill with families,strollers and kids,all assembled at long tables,all talking,hugging,talking and talking!!They glance at us momentarily .....The strange sight of just 2 people sitting down for dinner...solo due!!!!!Then the parade of food begins with the antipasti.This is our introduction to antipasti Puglia style,and we are so delighted to finally have the EXPERIENCE.As each plate is put before us,the waiter tells us what we are about to eat:Fresh ricotta with "vino cotto" served in its own little pitcher;triangles of pecorino,some fresh;some aged;focaccia grano arso.....a gorgeous,amazing parade that goes on for 15 or more dishes,energetically described in her trip report by EKS.We are delighted,ecstatic and by the time the Antipasti della Masseria is over we are satiated;we are full,and yet the meal has hardly begun.AND....oh that bread basket !!!We drink some of the excellent wine produced at the massiera,watch the going back and forth of our neighbors at the large tables,and are stunned when TWO pasta dishes are put before us:trofie al pesto AND Troccoli alla campagnola con formaggio dei poveri.We hear the people at the next table laughing about this.Formaggio dei poveri are breadcrumbs,for a people so poor they could not afford cheese for their pasta.We appreciate the nostalgic pull these foods have for the family groups assembled around these tables.
Before the meat course is served,we notice the room has almost emptied,and wonder if it the custom for people to go outside for a break between.The waiters carry on,setting huge platters of Arrosto Misto on tables largely deserted.We feel too full to eat another bite,and can only nibble at some of the lamb chops;lamb ribs;sausages;tiny potatoes roasted in olive oil.By this time the diners are back at their tables,refreshed and hungry.It is now about 2 1/2 hours since we took our first bite of a taralli We are stuffed,and sadly cannot even consider the fruit and "Dolcetti Tipici" still to come.We offer profound thanks to our waiter,and leave.We feel uncomfortable with our departure,and realize we should have done what the locals did.....take a walk,mid-stream,but we could not face another bite.We left the very beautiful,never-to-be-forgotten Masseria Barbera,changed our shoes and went for VERY long walk.
"
Within moments,the room begins to fill with families,strollers and kids,all assembled at long tables,all talking,hugging,talking and talking!!They glance at us momentarily .....The strange sight of just 2 people sitting down for dinner...solo due!!!!!Then the parade of food begins with the antipasti.This is our introduction to antipasti Puglia style,and we are so delighted to finally have the EXPERIENCE.As each plate is put before us,the waiter tells us what we are about to eat:Fresh ricotta with "vino cotto" served in its own little pitcher;triangles of pecorino,some fresh;some aged;focaccia grano arso.....a gorgeous,amazing parade that goes on for 15 or more dishes,energetically described in her trip report by EKS.We are delighted,ecstatic and by the time the Antipasti della Masseria is over we are satiated;we are full,and yet the meal has hardly begun.AND....oh that bread basket !!!We drink some of the excellent wine produced at the massiera,watch the going back and forth of our neighbors at the large tables,and are stunned when TWO pasta dishes are put before us:trofie al pesto AND Troccoli alla campagnola con formaggio dei poveri.We hear the people at the next table laughing about this.Formaggio dei poveri are breadcrumbs,for a people so poor they could not afford cheese for their pasta.We appreciate the nostalgic pull these foods have for the family groups assembled around these tables.
Before the meat course is served,we notice the room has almost emptied,and wonder if it the custom for people to go outside for a break between.The waiters carry on,setting huge platters of Arrosto Misto on tables largely deserted.We feel too full to eat another bite,and can only nibble at some of the lamb chops;lamb ribs;sausages;tiny potatoes roasted in olive oil.By this time the diners are back at their tables,refreshed and hungry.It is now about 2 1/2 hours since we took our first bite of a taralli We are stuffed,and sadly cannot even consider the fruit and "Dolcetti Tipici" still to come.We offer profound thanks to our waiter,and leave.We feel uncomfortable with our departure,and realize we should have done what the locals did.....take a walk,mid-stream,but we could not face another bite.We left the very beautiful,never-to-be-forgotten Masseria Barbera,changed our shoes and went for VERY long walk.
"
May 18th, 2012, 05:25 AM
#30
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Thanks,Jubilada.I don't know what i have and will ask the Apple guys.Until then,I write with fear and trembling.I have lost so much,and have had to write once again,re-constructingwhat I had already written...and I am running out of time.UGH
May 18th, 2012, 07:06 AM
#31
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Carolina your recounting brought back such lovely memories!
I'm in no place to give computer advice, and I'm probably just stating the obvious here, but I'll just ask this: Would it be possible for you to write out your sections of report on Word, or Mac Pages, or some other application and then just cut and paste that to the Fodor's site? I used to try and write directly onto Fodors but I had so many problems with editing and sections vanishing that I now write in one place and just transfer. To lost a long section of text that you've labored at for so long is just so frustrating!
I'm in no place to give computer advice, and I'm probably just stating the obvious here, but I'll just ask this: Would it be possible for you to write out your sections of report on Word, or Mac Pages, or some other application and then just cut and paste that to the Fodor's site? I used to try and write directly onto Fodors but I had so many problems with editing and sections vanishing that I now write in one place and just transfer. To lost a long section of text that you've labored at for so long is just so frustrating!
May 18th, 2012, 10:36 AM
#32
Sorry about your computer issues -- that is so frustrating. I 2nd eks about writing it in Word or whatever and cutting and pasting into Fodors.
Your TR is great--other than its making me very hungry. Do you, or eks, happen to recall the hours on a Sunday for Masseria Barbera. Did u call for a reservation? I hope we can fit it in.
Your TR is great--other than its making me very hungry. Do you, or eks, happen to recall the hours on a Sunday for Masseria Barbera. Did u call for a reservation? I hope we can fit it in.
May 18th, 2012, 12:41 PM
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I had asked my hotel to book Masseria Barbera, and I did this about a week or two in advance.
I don't know when they open for Sunday lunch (maybe 12:30??) but I do know that I tried to move our booking to 2:30pm since this was the day of arrival for us, and they told us that that was too late.
I don't know when they open for Sunday lunch (maybe 12:30??) but I do know that I tried to move our booking to 2:30pm since this was the day of arrival for us, and they told us that that was too late.
May 20th, 2012, 08:46 AM
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Jubilada,Massiera Barbera DOES NOT have rooms,I asked.Also,I phoned for a reservation,about 6 weeks in advance.it is a one seating resto. and the dining-rooms were full by 1:30. We were the first to "roll out" 2 1/2 to 3 hours later !!!
May 20th, 2012, 10:15 AM
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I'm enjoying your report too. Thanks for taking the time to share.
I always type everything by opening an email page first and write it out there, then transfer it to a website by copying and pasting. I remember typing out a wonderful recommendation to a store only to hit submit and have it disappear by telling me the website timed out. Very frustrating. Typing first on email pages then transferring has never let me down!
I always type everything by opening an email page first and write it out there, then transfer it to a website by copying and pasting. I remember typing out a wonderful recommendation to a store only to hit submit and have it disappear by telling me the website timed out. Very frustrating. Typing first on email pages then transferring has never let me down!
May 22nd, 2012, 10:56 AM
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The Sunday evening Trani “passeggiata” was even more extraordinary !! I found a delightful definition: La Passeggiata,the art of taking a walk in the evening,is an italian social ritual everyone can participate in”......and we did!! We strolled the Lungomare,smiling at all the kids;checking out the heel-heights on women’s shoes....some looked at least 6”...and stopped to listen to a rock band on a make-shift stage.So many people and not a single altercation.Imagine that in the U.S !!!
Monday morning we left Trani,our first stop in Puglia set Luca,our born-again GPS on the dash-board of the car and had Luca guide us out of Trani and on to the road through the verdant,agticultural southern Murge to Matera...and Hotel S Domenica,one block off P.Veneto.My husband was not interested in “staying in a cave”,and we were concerned about parking,so we settled for this hotel,so well situated and so inexpensive I feared it would be unpleasant.What a huge surprise !! We drove directly into the underground garage,checked in and took the elevator up to a third floor room:immaculate;spacious; excellent roomy bathroom and great bed !!
It was only 11 A.M. and we were free to explore P. Veneto and then descend into the Sassi,stopping first at an over-look in the piazza.initially,it is difficult for me to comprehend what was before me.As much as I had read,the reality,initially, is so puzzling.We descended the steps and began to explore.We went up and down and around,marvelling at it all,eager to re-trace our steps with our guide Nadia, at 2 P.M.Hungry andtired we returned to the square in the “new town”,to “Pane e Pane” where we purchased a huge slab of fantastic pizza....thick crust made with semolina flour and topped with proscuitto,artichokes,cardoncelli mushrooms and fresh mozzarella.Along with cold bottles of lemon soda we had a fantastic lunch sharing a bench with pizza-munching Dutch tourists.
Just before 2 P.M. we returned to our hotel to meet:
........... [email protected] 01133 835 333 214
Who ever the Fodorite was,who discovered Nadia and then provided her contact information........Thank you !!! Nadia provided so much more than history and dates.She was born in the upper town and never knew the Sassi existed until she was a teen-ager.For over 3 hours,our hottest day,we explored the street;the homes;the churches and the remnant frescos.All the while,Nadia talked about the Sassi clans;the separation between the two Sassis.......stories defies comprehension.When we finally retreated to a bar for “espresso freddo” we felt so gifted by all Nadia had shared with us.Before we parted,she directed us to a restaurant off the piazza,instructing us to order THE specialty of Matera,CIALLED .
Monday morning we left Trani,our first stop in Puglia set Luca,our born-again GPS on the dash-board of the car and had Luca guide us out of Trani and on to the road through the verdant,agticultural southern Murge to Matera...and Hotel S Domenica,one block off P.Veneto.My husband was not interested in “staying in a cave”,and we were concerned about parking,so we settled for this hotel,so well situated and so inexpensive I feared it would be unpleasant.What a huge surprise !! We drove directly into the underground garage,checked in and took the elevator up to a third floor room:immaculate;spacious; excellent roomy bathroom and great bed !!
It was only 11 A.M. and we were free to explore P. Veneto and then descend into the Sassi,stopping first at an over-look in the piazza.initially,it is difficult for me to comprehend what was before me.As much as I had read,the reality,initially, is so puzzling.We descended the steps and began to explore.We went up and down and around,marvelling at it all,eager to re-trace our steps with our guide Nadia, at 2 P.M.Hungry andtired we returned to the square in the “new town”,to “Pane e Pane” where we purchased a huge slab of fantastic pizza....thick crust made with semolina flour and topped with proscuitto,artichokes,cardoncelli mushrooms and fresh mozzarella.Along with cold bottles of lemon soda we had a fantastic lunch sharing a bench with pizza-munching Dutch tourists.
Just before 2 P.M. we returned to our hotel to meet:
........... [email protected] 01133 835 333 214
Who ever the Fodorite was,who discovered Nadia and then provided her contact information........Thank you !!! Nadia provided so much more than history and dates.She was born in the upper town and never knew the Sassi existed until she was a teen-ager.For over 3 hours,our hottest day,we explored the street;the homes;the churches and the remnant frescos.All the while,Nadia talked about the Sassi clans;the separation between the two Sassis.......stories defies comprehension.When we finally retreated to a bar for “espresso freddo” we felt so gifted by all Nadia had shared with us.Before we parted,she directed us to a restaurant off the piazza,instructing us to order THE specialty of Matera,CIALLED .
