ekscrunchy

Robert: Those cans of tuna (and berberechos and other seafood) are the first things I stock up on whenn I go to Spain. Cabo de Pena, too. I'm not sure of current prices, but I did get a decent deal on Amazon for the Ortiz (red can ventresca) about a year ago, in case you run out. I will definitely be ono the lookout for olive oil. LAst time I bought Fuenroble on Maribel's advice and it was stellar.

Thanks for the market info….I will look into St Jean de Luz; I've been there but never to a market and could drive from SS, I think.

Will return after more reading…..surprisingly there seem to be few guidebooks in English devoted to the region. My library has only Rick Steves and I found Cadogan online so can order that one.

thursdaysd

You can go to St. Jean de Luz by train, but you'd have to change trains and they're not frequent.

There is also a DK Eyewitness guide to Northern Spain.

IMDonehere

Eks-See if you can secure a copy of Cadogan as you noted.

http://www.interlinkbooks.com/produc...bbd3a55cd3d183

I gave my copy to someone, so I cannot make specific references. It is a bit dry and weak on food and hotels, but rich in architecture and culture.

Since you know food and have received many recommendations for hotels and restaurants, this would probably be an excellent companion.

There is also a Michelin Green for the Basque Country but I am unsure of how much of that is in Spain.

Bedar

If you didn't see the recent NYT article, 36 hrs in Bilbao, have a look.

Robert2533

And of course you've seen the latest list of top restaurants, Asador Etxebarri came in at No. 13. Not bad!: http://www.theworlds50best.com

kimhe

Four (Spanish) Basque restaurants on top 20 (two French, two UK and two US in top 20). Not bad for an area with a population of a little more than 2 mill ;-) http://www.theworlds50best.com/list/1-50-winners#t1-50

And ten Spanish restaurants among top 70.

thursdaysd

Seems not everyone is happy with the list:

http://www.nytimes.com/2015/05/29/di...list.html?_r=0

http://www.thedailybeast.com/article...ce=CSAMedition

ekscrunchy

I've read about all the top tables in the Pais Vasco over the years but the one that really pulls me is Extebarri. Will probably book one or two others of the multi-starred ones in the SS area; that will be a diffficult decision to choose but perhaps Akelarre and Azurmendi.

And I've read so much about the turbot at Elkano in Getaria.

But again, have not done any recent reading so those ideas might change, except for Extebarri.


And want to include a few "hidden gems." And want to save many evenings for tapas, not long sit down dinners.

Any comments about Mannix? Staying nearby?

Robert2533

Restaurant Mannix in Campaspero, just south of Peñafiel, is rated the region’s number one asador in the reliable Lo Mejor de la Gastronomía guide, and the young, enthusiastic master roaster, Marco Antonio García, served us the most tender lamb we’ve experienced to date.

In addition, we enjoyed Javier Cristóbal’s celebrated Nazareno, the area’s “roast lamb palace (open for lunch only), sitting next to the medieval walls at the top of Roa, with panoramic views of the countryside from its lively and always packed-to-the-rafters upstairs dining room.

http://tinyurl.com/nmuumzd

ekscrunchy

Robert thank you. Just what I'd hoped to read about Mannix.

Ofo the three: Mannix, Nazareno, and Fogon de Tinin (where I have been before and loved), which would you eliminate if necessary? Any places to stay that you recommend? Looks like a nice small hotel in Roa but there are probably many that are more than decent.


http://raizyparamodeguzman.es/restaurante/


When I plan this trip, and ask questions, please keep in mind that I want to try to eliminate driving in and out of congested areas as much as possible. We are not the calmest drivers and since the lechazo trail is enjoyed much more by one than the other of the two participants on this proposed tour, I want to make it as easy as possible for the less-eager participant who does almost all of the driving.




I did find an old Cadogan guide to Bilbao and Basque Lands, and another Cadogan Northern Spain on my "Spain" shelf.

danon

Easyjet flys Madrid - Lisbon...someday days twice a day !
I took it last October.....about 60 euros one way.

danon

flies....

cova

another option would be to fly from Lisbon to Bilbao. I have just found some 95 euros fares in October, for a one way ticket.

Bye, Cova

Robert2533

The Hotel Raiz is an excellent property. It was built for wine buyers visiting Roa and is well taken care of and makes a good bast for the ara. They also serve an excellent roast baby lamb.

http://tinyurl.com/ntf89oz

ekscrunchy

Thanks, Robert. Thinking that we will start the trip in Madrid, drive from airport to the first stop.

But not sure how to handle having the car in the two cities at the end of the trip: Bilbao and San Sebastian. I would like to return the car once we arrive at our last destination, either SS or Bilbao, from where we will depart on a flight to JFK, via MAD. So that means having the car in the other of those two cities, or else traveling between them by bus.

Is there any advantage of flying home from Bilbao rather than SS, or vice versa? There appear to be several flights a day from both cities to Madrid, arriving in time to make connection to NY.

For those of you who have visited Getaria, would you recommend spending one or two nights there, instead of visiting on a daytrip from SS? (To dine at Elkano and see the Balenciaga Museum?)

What about Tolosa? Is the town pretty and/or interesting, or both?

Any other towns nearby that merit overnight visits?

thursdaysd

You can also travel between Bilbao and San Sebastian by train.

http://www.euskotren.eus/sites/www2....4CMODImp_0.pdf

cova

Ekscrunchy,

the difference between the two airports is simply the amount of flights. You will have a greater availability in Bilbao then in San Sebastian, and you have two companies flying out of Bilbao ( Iberia and Air Europa ), not only Iberia as in SS.

Depending on your flight home, you might be able to get the boarding cards in Bilbao and check your luggage thru to your final destination. Iberia is part of the Oneworld alliance and Air Europa of the Skyteam

Rgds, Cova

Robert2533

As Cova says, I'd go with flying out of Bilbao.

Getaria can be done as a day-trip from Donostia by car or bus. The bus will drop you off very close to the Balenciaga Museum and it's much better taking the bus then trying to find a place to park.

If you wanted to stay in Getaria, then the Saiza Getaria (saiazgetaria.com) would be a good option. Try for a seaview room. They do have parking (limited) and it's only a few minutes walk from Elkano.

We like Tolosa. It's a nice village with three different markets and some great roasting houses. The largest market is in the white pavilion along the river (www.pinterest.com/pin/297096906643221047/).

HappyTrvlr

FYI:The San Sebastian airport is located in Hondarribia on the French border.

ekscrunchy

HOLA to everyone!

My trip last year was postponed due to medical issues of my travel partner. But I am refreshing this thread in anticipation of a trip in late October, beginning in Madrid, passing through the area near Penafiel and Axpe, to ask a few questions:



http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...ro-burgos-.cfm




Questions (and there will be more so thank you all for your help, in advance):

Planning to go to market in Tolosa on the Saturday in early November, probably by train. (Will rent car at Barajas and probably turn it in in SS unless not advised)

Since we have only 5 nights booked in San Sebastian, would it be sane to have our big meal of that Saturday after market at one of the asadores (thinking Casa Nicolas)? Menu is very limited and partner is not fond of rare steak. My issue is not budget, it is that we do not have huge capacity for taking in so much fantastic food.


Are the roasting houses of Tolosa so special that I should forego a meal in SS? We are not able to eat large breakfast and then lunch in Tolosa and then, again, dinner... Alternative coulee be anything from pits to Akelare.

So far I have on my list:
1. one under-the-radar spot in SS, open lunch only
2. Mirador de Ulia (booked by phone for lunch)
3. Xarma (intend to book for dinner Friday night when Casco Viejo may be teeming)

Am I missing a life experience by passing up Akelare?

Or best to leave Saturday for lunch in Tolosa and dinner wandering around Gros??? Is Casa Nicolas and its ilk far better than what I can find in SS??


I want to save time for pinxtos and for snacking around. Do not want to be rushing here to there for many-hours-long-fancy-meals. (Partner will be bored, for one thing)

Even have hopes for a swim in early November. (Did this late October last time) Not to mention just walking and gaping at the beauty of the city.

Have been to SS before but partner has not.....so far we have booked only five nights at Maria Cristina followed by two at Bilbao Carlton (Sunday and Monday) with confirmed booking at Etxanobe for Monday lunch.




Non related topic: Does is make sense to book first night or two, from airport, at Abadia Retuerta, pushing up our departure by one night to allow two nights there? Or go with Castilla Termal Monasterio de Valbuena? (Partner has been in wine business but neither of us have vast interest in touring bodegas).

More or less the sketchy plan is this; described in detail on the thread linked above;; I may have made a few mistakes in dates. Wondering if we should extend stay in SS.

1-2 nights in lechazo area, near Penafiel..lunches at Mannix and Nazareno

2 nights Burgos (lunch at Azofra, Ojeda??)

1 night Muxika, at Hotel Urune, prior to lunch at Etxebarri (two nights booked at hotel; restaurant booked by phone)

2 nights outside Getaria with lunch at Elkano booked for Monday

http://www.hoteliturregi.com/eng/


5 nights San Sebastian; turn in car upon arrival; stay at Maria Cristina

2 nights Bilbao at Carlton (can extend). Lunch booked at Etxanobe Monday.
Sunday we will arrive and that day is up in the air as far as food; have been to Guggenheim before. Mercado de la rRbera is a must for Monday am.

Fly to Lisbon with 5 nights at Bairro Alto; have done no reading on food in that city and have never been to the Portuguese capital