http://news.yahoo.com/s/ap_travel/20...jewish_quarter

What a sad story.

It is a shame, though, that the article doesn't mention the new Jewish neighborhoods of Paris, such as in the 19th arrondissement, such as the section between métro Crimée and métro Laumière. They may not have the history, but they have the ambience, including plenty of kosher pizzerias.

There's also the neighborhood near rue des Rosiers (Cadet/Grand Boulevards metro stops).

The re des Rosiers neighborhood is very stimulating, colorful and just reeking of history. It's a (narrow) stroll we enjoyed taking daily on or last trip.

I should have said is STILL very stimulating...

Sorry, I got confused. Of course, rue des Rosiers is in the Marais. I meant rue Richer in the 9th.

There have been similar stories about changes in the Jewish ghetto neighborhood in Rome--although fewer of the businesses there are being replaced
http://www.iht.com/articles/2007/01/25/news/rome.php

We had a great experience on Rue de Rosiers in May. My husband and I were strolling and a young Hassidic reb struck up a conversation with us and eventually asked us if we were Jewish, which we are.

He then asked my husband if he had ever worn teffilin, the Jewish prayer straps that get wrapped around the arm and head of a religious Jew as he prays. My husband said no and that he wasn't even Bar Mitzvah'ed, having rebeled against the necessary schooling involved as a young teenager.

The young rabbi got very excited and asked him if he'd like to be Bar Mitzvah'ed right there and then! He said it would be his honor and his pleasure to perform that "mitzvah" (hebrew/yiddish for a very good deed.)

We agreed and it was amazing! Right there on the street he sat my husband down on a little stool, gave him a tallis (prayer shawl) and yarlmeka (skull cap,)wrapped the teffilen around his head and arm and had him repeat the key prayers. He did a very short torah reading and whallah! Instant Bar Mitzvah! No studying, no hebrew school, no getting up in front of everyone (except the few strangers looking on in wonder!) Perfect!

It was late on a Friday afternoon, right before the start of the official Jewish sabbath. He gave me special candles to light (which I brought home and lit the first Friday evening back at home)and congratulated my husband on this rite of passage. He wouldn't take any money, but was so thrilled to have brought a Jew officially into the fold. It was an incredible experience and we have pictures to prove it.

Needless to say, both our mothers were thrilled to hear this news and It's wonderful that my husband is finally a man (at 54 years of age!)

plafield, what a wonderful story - thanks for posting it.

What a fabulous story, plafield!!! I love looking at the different doorway touchstones (I'm sorry, I can't think of the actual name). Some were so elaborate and others were simple. Some modern and some obviously ancient.

We agreed and it was amazing! Right there on the street he sat my husband down on a little stool, gave him a tallis (prayer shawl) and yarlmeka (skull cap,)wrapped the teffilen around his head and arm and had him repeat the key prayers. He did a very short torah reading and whallah! Instant Bar Mitzvah! No studying, no hebrew school, no getting up in front of everyone (except the few strangers looking on in wonder!) Perfect!

And you saved all the aggrevation of inviting realtives you don't like.

platfied, what a delightful enriching event to happen.

Hi Mc,

>What a sad story.

Not really.

It's no worse, or different, than the changes that have come about anywhere else in Paris (or any other thriving city) over the last 50 years.
...............................

Hi P,

Mazel Tov to you and your DH.
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Hi M,

>...looking at the different doorway touchstones...

I think you mean a Mezuzah.

See www.judaica-guide.com/mezuzah/

mcnyc and Plafield:

A very touching story indeed. Mazel Tov to your husband and to you for standing by him on this meaningful occasion.

On my visit to Portugal in May, I was determined to get to the town of Belmonte in the northern mountains to connect with the fascinating Jewish community of 100, for research purposes.

For centuries, following the Inquisitional Phases in both Spain and Portugal, marranos/conversos, Jews who converted to avoid death or explusion, remained "hidden" by not practicing their faith. Many did so in a variety of clandestine means...BUT in the past sevral decades, many have "come out" and have begun to reaffirm their lost faith. The descendants in Belmonte, now numbering 100+, even built a sinagoga a few years ago, and have been warmly welcomed by the people of the town.

We also visited the striking sinagoga in Lisbon on Avenida Herculano, three blocks west from the Avenida Libetade intersection. greeted warmly by one of its members.

My pix herein show both edifices...you will spot them easily.

Plafield, I will also send you a scanned news release on the aforementioned Belmonte story.

http://picasaweb.google.com/stuarttower/Portugal2008

Stuart Tower

Yes, Ira. I was too lazy to google it, so thanks

Stuart, Thanks for the article and the link to the photos! Wonderful story.

Auduchamp1: yes, indeed, no terrible relatives, but also no pile of checks and gifts! But it was still more than worth it.

In all seriousness, it really was a very happy occasion for me. I was one of the first girls allowed to be Bat Mitvah'ed in our conservative synagogue and while I have traveled far from Judaism in my religious practices since then, culturally, historically, and in my heart, my connection to my Jewishness remains extremely important and this was a very special event.

The article did make me feel sad. We were there 9 years ago and had so much fun. As a Midwestern Jew from America, I felt as home with the shopkeepers and locals on rue des Rosiers, as I have felt at home. It's kind of like looking for the lower east side of Manhattan. It exists and Jews probably run many of the shops, but the character and Yiddush flavor are gone. Oh well, that's the way it goes.

Hey Mary...you're back from your trip, we are too. How did it go? Take look a few posts above for our pix...send me yours...we also hit London and The Cotswolds.

Stu t.

I live in neighborhood similar to the Marais. I live in the East Village of NYC while both my grnadfathers grew up in the abutting area, the Lower East Side. There are still a few remnants of Jewish LES, such a religious article, pickle, and knish stores but for the most part they are gone.

But my grandfathers worked like dogs to get out. Poverty is not romantic but nostalgia is. Now there are multi-million dollar condos and trendy clubs, reaturants, and bars.

In today's economy it is almost impossible to maintain some middle ground of shops that are only supported by those that live outside the area.

I will be staying in the Marais next month and we ate at Goldenberg's back in 1982 about two weeks before it was it machine gunned by terrorists.

Aduchamp, do you know that Goldenberg is no more, closed due to heaath violations and never reopened.