wondering

Greetings, all!<BR>I have the opportunity to accompany my husband on a business trip to Milan, Italy. Any suggestions for shopping, dining, touring, or accommodations? I've never been to Italy at all, so this is my preliminary investigation, and I'm open to any information you may want provide. Thanks in advance!<BR>

Andrea

Well, I was going to suggest a search on this forum for some starter ideas - but I tried it myself & didn't come up with much. Fodors does have a decent city guide to Milan though - that would be a good starting point.<BR><BR>We spent a couple of days in Milan over Christmas in 2000 and loved it. <BR><BR>I'm not much help with hotels - we stayed at Hotel Gritti, which was a centrally-located good deal at US $100-ish per night, but the room was pretty nondescript, and I'm just guessing that you'll be able to stay someplace a bit more expensive.<BR><BR>Leonardo da Vinci's "Last Supper" is in Milan - it's a moving experience to see such a masterpiece in its original location (in a monestary). (You usually need to call ahead to get a reservation).<BR><BR>The Sforza castle is stunning, and contains some real treasures, including Michaelangelo's unfinished Pieta and a very unique ROOM whose walls and cieling were painted by da Vinci (in a wonderful pattern of interlocking trees).<BR><BR>The Gothic cathedral is magnificent (we had ourselves in stitches imagining the builders saying: "You know, it's still missing SOMETHING - let's add just a BIT more decoration" - you'll know what I mean when you see it).<BR><BR>The shopping area near the Duomo is also magnificent. It's up there with GUM in Moscow as one of the most beautiful shopping "centers" in the world (don't think of it as a mall - it was built in the 1870's and is made of soaring glass and steel).<BR><BR>Unfortunatly, I'm pretty sure La Scala (opera) is closed now - you may want to check, though.<BR><BR>Via della Spiga is one of the most elegant (and expensive) shopping streets I've ever seen (and I do mean SEEN, not shopped, unfortunately). <BR><BR>Peck is a fabulous gourmet food store and deli, fun whether you're buying picnic makings, gifts, or just window shopping.<BR><BR>In summary, Milan is a fabulous city with a lot to see and do. That said, you should still lobby your husband for a couple of days on either end of the trip to go to Rome, Florence, or Venice (or head off on your own)!

wondering

Thank you, Andrea! <BR>Yes, I did a search as well, but found mostly website directions. That's fine, but I particularly enjoy reading others' first hand experiences.<BR>The castle and cathedral sound wonderful, and I will make it a point to stop by Peck.<BR>If you could pick only one other city, which would it be? I'm rather torn between Florence (food, art) or Venice (because it's Venice)!

Ron

We will be driving up to Milan from the south and would like to drop off our rental car somewhere outside of the city--what is the best way to do this?<BR><BR>We are also unaware of how one makes a reservation to see the Last Supper.

Rex

To make a reservation to see Il Cenacolo (The last supper) call Santa Maria della Grazie. I was there in 2000 with 11 people. I think that we simply called 1 or 2 days ahead, but there were limited time slots on that short notice (our group was 11 though).<BR><BR>The following details are courtesy of<BR><BR>http://abcnews.go.com/sections/travel/Europhiles/steves009016.html<BR><BR>since I can no longer find other references to this information I think I have posted in the past.<BR><BR>===================================== =<BR><BR>25 tourists are allowed in every 15 minutes. For a reservation (requiring a fee of $1.50), call 199-199-100 if you’re in Italy or 011-39-028-942-1146 from the United States.<BR><BR>=================================== ===<BR><BR>Best wishes,<BR><BR>Rex<BR>

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Ann

Andrea...good job on making Milan sound like a great place to visit. I always heard negative things about it and avoided it. If I had to choose a second city I would definately pick Florence, what a great town. Well I guess I need to plan Milan now.

Ron

We will be driving to Milan from the south and would like to drop off our rental car outside of the city and then go in by taxi or other means of transportation. Any suggestions as to where?

Rex

Posted on "the other thread" where this question was asked:<BR><BR>Author: Rex ([email protected])<BR>Date: 08/05/2002, 10:18 pm<BR><BR>Message: To Ron:<BR><BR>www.avis.com has an easy facility to assist you in locating every one of their locations in Italy (or any other country in the world). You don't say what car rental company you're using, but where Avis is, others usually are, too (but not always).<BR><BR>Best wishes,<BR><BR>Rex<BR>

John G

Darling, you will feel very out of place in Milano without a fur coat, and I don't care if it is August. These girls are fierce and you don't want to look bougie. If you don't own mink, at least bring some leather mini-skirts with you in an assortment of colors.(Think Rupaul in Roberto Cavelli.)<BR><BR>And remember, us Fe Fendi as an adjective, not a verb.<BR><BR>Ciao, <BR>John G.

Red

I liked Milan too and agree with everything Andrea said. The duomo is magnificant and so is the Galleria. It was our favorite place to sit and have our afternoon beer. It is a major city and with that comes all the hustle and bustle. We did take a day trip to Como, which is only 30 minutes away by train and then took the hydrofoil to Bellagio. <BR><BR>Don't listen to the fool regarding the fur coat.

Alice Twain

Let us start from the accomodation problem: Milano is costly, but if you are willing to spend some money you can find great hotels in Milano. If you are on the cheap side, things get a bit more troublesome, but Hotel Nuovo should be fine. it is not really dirty cheap, but it is cheapish, it is in th very center of Milano, just some 50 meters from the Duomo, and it has been recently refurbished. A bit too cold, the rooms are not very spaciuos, but it is worth its price.<BR><BR>ALBERGO NUOVO SE.AL SRL<BR>20122 Milano (MI) - PIAZZA BECCARIA 6<BR>tel: 02 86464444/86460542 <BR><BR>Touring: You have already read about the Duomo, the Castle and its museums (admission is free at these museums!) and some other places I could direct you to, so I will give you a few other suggestions. Unless you will be here in August, when it is closed, visit the building that hosts the University (at least its central offices and a few courses). It is placed nearby the Duomo and the central courtyard and the buildings on your right as you enter the central courtyard are very interesting. The other end is less interesting: it is newer, having been built in early XIX century, and it was almost completely bombed during Ww2, but the righ-hand part still has areas that were built during the middle age and at the Flilologia Germanica or at the English language and Literature department offices (I can't remember which) you can still see the small dock that served the building once used as hospital and that was connected to the Navigli system, once far more developed than it is now. Also, take a walk in the Navigli district. Navigli are (nad were sine most part of them has closed to build streets) were canals that connected Milano to the main waterways of northern Italy and therefore to the sea. The Darsena is still there, and it used to be one of the 15 most traffiked ports of Italy, altough Milano has no sea!!! Until one century agok Milano still loooked not much different from Venice. The two surviving canals, Navilgio Pavese and Naviglio Grande, are still one of the most characteristic areas of Milano. Amici dei navigli organize boat tours of the canals. Contact them at [email protected] (http://www.naviganavigli.it/home.html). Tickets can be bought at ATP Milano in Galleria or in the building on the right of the Duomo. A recent discovery of mine is Certosa di Garegnano. Take tram Number 14 in front of Cadorna railway station and ask the driver to tell you when you are at the Via Garegnano stop. Via garegano is plaed in one of the most modern-but-depressing-looking areas of the city, but do not worry: walk the 100 meters to the end of Via Garegnano and you will find yourself in the middle of a XVI century monastry. Visits are only 10,00 to 12,00 and in the afternoon from 14,30 to 16,00. Also, Atm (the local public transportation network) has a touristic tram line, costing around 15 euro for a fast tour of the main beauties of the city.

Alice Twain

Dining: In the monrning o like Italians do: have a cappuccino con brioche at a bar somewhere. From 7,30 to 9,00 you will find bars crowded with Italian workers gulping down their morning food (often just a cup of coffee). I may be one of them, so watch out ^_^.<BR>For lunch you can keep it cheap and fast but tasty looking for Break and Ciao self service restaurants, the food is decent and the price fair. near the Duomo, try Coco's vegetarian fast-ood, a pretty unusual fast food offering decent dishes of vegetable ravioli, large vegetarian hamburgers, good salads and very goos sweets. No Coca Cola available at this place.<BR>The most distinctive trait of eating out in Milano is the happy hour. I love it because it is the only moment when you can kick an accounting manager or a whateverelse manager (there is a huge brood of them in Milano) or beat him with an umbrella for the last forkful of pasta available and he will not even complain. My own favorite happy hour is at Blender Bar, offering a great cocktail (either alcoolic and non alcoolic) and as much food as you can have for 4,50 euro. You will be served your drink and will be allowed to eat just as much food as you can (also several times) from the buffet that will include small sandwiches, salads, pasta and much more. And the drinks are great!<BR>As for restaurants, Milano hs some fine places, but it is on the costly side. These are a few places that I have personally approved. For a real taste of Milano, you should moe a bit out of the city and reach Trattoria Redecesio. The Place is not easy to reach: take the subway to Gobba (green line) than a taxi to via Redecesio 15. The building is just a house with brown doors and no sign. you can expect to spend 20 euro or even less, the owner does not speak English 8and not much Italian either, she prefers speaking milanese), but have a bottle ofred wine (do not ask for a wine list, she has white wine and red wine and that's all!!!), have the "antipasto", some "riso al salto", "caseula" if she has made it or "messicani", both with "polenta" and if you like strong tasting cheeses, try "caprino". Do not ask for anything else, that's more or less everything there is to eat, but it is worth the taxi ride both for the food and for the unique place.<BR><BR>Trattoria Redecesio<BR>Via Redecesio, 15 - 20090 Segrate (MI)<BR>tel. 02.2131049 <BR><BR>For a more elegant dinner, try Osteria del Riccio. Take tra subway (red line) to Sesto Marelli, than walk for some 300 meters. www.osteriadelriccio.it. Creative food with some respect to traditions and a good wine list. 25-30 euro<BR>Osteria Del Riccio<BR>Via Del Riccio, 75<BR>20099, Sesto San Giovanni<BR>02.26220328<BR>Try the food from Friuli at Mandi!. A very unusual food from the alps. Usually the eening ends with the owner sitting on a chair with a guitar and singing itlaian songs (but do no expect any "Funicil&igrave;-funicol&agrave;" sort of thing: he will sing De Andr&egrave; songs, traditionals from Milano and a few songs by French singer and songwriters Brel and Brassens. If you want to spend LOTS of money, ask for picolit wine at the end of the dinner, otherways you should expect to spend like at the above Osteria Del Riccio<BR>Mandi!<BR>Via De Marchi, 5 angolo Via della Giustizia (Milano)<BR>02.6704295

Alice Twain

For fish and food from Sardinia, try Baja Sardinja. Spaghetti con bottarga is a dish of spaghetti garnished with pulverized dried ish eggs: it sounds disgusting, but it is really delicious. Polpo alla catalana is an octopus salad with fresh tomatos and onion, very fresh and delicate, while orata alla vernaccia is fish (I do not know what is orata called in English) cooked with a wine sauce. If you like almonds, try their souff&egrave; alle mandorle; if you like chocolate, try their foresta nera cake; if you like both... HAVE BOTH!!! 20 euro<BR>Baja Sardinja<BR>Via don Bosco angolo Piazza San Luigi (Milano)<BR>025695314<BR><BR>For a good pizza, go to Frienno Magnanno, a neapolitan pizzeria close to the loreto subway station (red line). Try their pizza fritta, a fried dough filled with ricotta cheese. Do not worry about fat: their pizza fritta hardly leaves any grease on you fingers if you touch it. If you do not feel like having a pizza, try their pasta fagioli e cozze, an unusual concotion, but a very filling and tasty soup. Have a slice of pastiera napoletana sa a desert. 15-25 euro (if you eat pizza you can spend less).<BR>Frienno Magnanno (Friggendo mangiano)<BR>Via Benedetto Marcello<BR>02.29403654<BR><BR>Finally, if you are a meat eater, try Duna Bianca. Do not sk for anything but a bottle of red wine and one fiorentina steak (have it rare, "al sangue", one is more than enough for two people) or a couple of cotoletta alla milanese. You will spend some 30 euro, but it is worth it. Do not let yourself be tempted by their pasta, just have the meat!<BR>Ristorante Duna Bianca<BR>via Pasquale Sottocorno 27<BR>tel 02733244<BR>

Alice Twain

You can shop at several stockhouses and outlets in Milano and near it (if you have a car). You can find a decent list of such places at http://www.milanoin.it/shopping/speciali/spacci/spacci.asp<BR><BR>A few last advices<BR>HTe best way to go around in Milano is by subway, tram and bus. Buy yourself the dayly or two-day pass that will allow you on every bus, tram or subway in Milano. Also, at Ata Point (Duomo subway station) you can buy a cheap but good map of Milano with subway, bus and tram lines in detail. www.atm-mi.it has further informations.

Dayle

Dear Alice,<BR><BR>Can you explain why the Milan subway closes so early, 17:30? We were shocked to find the stations closing as we tried to return to our hotel!

lisa

Watch out for the dog poop on the side walks, it is everywhere!

Tess

Our favorite hotel in Milan is Hotel Fieramilano. It is across the "Fiera" Fashion Fair and can be busy during any fashion trade week. You can take tram 19 to go downtown. The tram stops right outside the hotel.<BR><BR>The address is:<BR>Hotel Fieramilano<BR>Viale Boezo,20<BR>20145 Milan<BR><BR>We found it through the American Express Magazine(Europe ala Carte). We stayed there in 1998. What a pleasant surprise. They had an impressive breakfast buffet. The staff was friendly and efficient. The rooms were not very big but were tastefully decorated and had a refrigerator, bar, and safe. It was about $100. We tried to book there again last year but they had the fashion fair so we had to stay in another hotel. I can't recommend it to you!<BR><BR>From Milan, you can take the train to Lake Como, Lake Lugano(Switzerland- one hour away),Lago Maggiore,Turin,Genoa.<BR> <BR>Milan is a welcome relief after hectic tours of Naples,Rome,and other crowded Italian cities. <BR><BR>Places to shop are the Montenapoleone area, Rinascenti Dept. Store and Vittorio Emmanuel (the most beautiful mall in the world!). Of course, there are stores like the Emporio Armani,etc.<BR><BR>Have a cup of coffee at the Rinascenti Dept. store and enjoy an excellent view of the Duomo. They have good lunch and dinner,as well.<BR><BR>If you would rather see the markets, go to the flea markets on Wednesdays and Saturdays. You'll wonder why you buy the wilted produce back home!<BR><BR>Buy the 24 hour ticket- "Bigliette de Giornaliero" for $2.50 for the tram/bus/subway (use it for all 3)and you can save a lot of time by not falling in line or trying to find a place to buy the tickets.<BR><BR>By the way, we booked Hotel Fieramilano through this phone no. in the US: 800-384-1212.<BR><BR>Have a good trip.

Alice Twain

Dayle:<BR><BR>Actually the subway in Milano works (and it always worked for as long as I can remember, that measn at least 20 years) from 6.00 to 24.00, except on Saturday when it is currently experimenting ending service around 1.30. Passante ferroviario works only until 21.00 pm, but that's only a 6 stops line. You probably hit a strike day, I can think of no other reason for subway being closed at 17.30.

Alice Twain

I forgot one thing: gelato!<BR><BR>The best gelato in Milano can be found not far from the Frienno Magnnno pizzeria, at Cardelli - Casa del gelato, a medium sized shop with five meters of double rowed gelato bowls. On the righ of the shop there are the fruit gelato: all made exclusively with water, the juice and the pulp of fresh fruits (flavors change with season and with fresh fruits' availability) and very little sugar. On the left you can find the creams, made with milk, eggs, sugar and other real ingredients (no chemical flavors and addictives, niether for fruits nor for creams): chocolate, almond, pine cone nut, pistacchio (in most gelateria it looks bright green, here it will look an almost brownish green, but it is the real color of pistaccio!) and many more. Have a cup (the smallest is some 40 grams, 2,20 euro) and eat it while walking: Cardelli has no tables to seat. Their gelato is more costly than at most other places, but the flavor can't compare.<BR><BR>Gelateria Cardelli - Casa del gelato<BR>Via Pergolesi (in front of the Mac Donald's fast food)