Are you Scotland experts up for critiquing yet another trip itinerary? Hubby and I are planning a 15-night trip in May and, of course, want to see as much of the lovely country as we can without exhausting ourselves. Your opinions and advice are very welcome!

First the background - it'll just be the two of us, Americans, ages 57 and 48. We are not into cities or nightlife, but love scenery, wildlife, history, and shopping for local crafts. Plus Hubby plays Frisbee golf so a couple of the stops in our plans involve Frisbee golf courses. We want to leave our plans flexible enough to be able to take advantage of getting sidetracked from time to time if something attracts our interest, and yet we need to have enough structure to know about where we should be and where we need to make reservations. So here is my first draft at an itinerary, with a list of some of the things we'd like to see along the way, although only the ones with an asterisk (*) are "must-sees":

May 11: Arrive Glasgow around 10 a.m., hire a car and drive toward Oban. Things to see along the way: Kilmartin Glen, Crarae Gardens, Arduaine Gardens. Spend night in Oban area.

May 12 & 13: Take Oban ferry to Mull. Frisbee golf here! Things to see: Iona Abbey*. Spend two nights on Mull.

May 14: Take ferry back to Oban, drive to Mallaig. Things to see along the way: Glencoe, Port Appin, Ft. William, Glenfinnan*. Spend night in Mallaig.

May 15 & 16: Take ferry to Skye. Spend two nights on Skye.

May 17: Take Kyle of Lochalsh bridge and drive to Ullapool. Things to see along the way: Eilean Donan Castle, Inverewe Garden. Spend night in or near Ullapool. Frisbee golf here!

May 18, 19 & 20: Drive to Inverness and spend three nights, hopefully at Leaneach Farm. Things to see: Clava Cairns*, Culloden Battlefield*, Loch Ness* (sorry...), Foyers, Urquhart Castle*, Pluscarden Abbey.

May 21: Drive toward Perth, down the center of the country. Things to see: Rothiemurchus & Abernethy forests, Cairngorm, Meigle Stones*. Spend night somewhere along the way.

May 22, 23, 24: Arrive in Perth area and stay three nights. Things to see: Dundee*, St. Andrews*, Edinburgh Castle & Royal Mile*, Roslyn Chapel, Falkland Castle.

May 25: Drive to Glasgow. Things to see: Stirling Castle. Spend night in Glasgow.

May 26: Plane leaves at 10:50 a.m.

One question I have is, how important is it to have a reservation for each night? So far the only place we KNOW we want to stay is Leanach Farm, although I haven't called them yet. I don't mind making reservations for the multi-night stays, but is it critical for, say, May 21 when we don't really know where we will be? If it is then I'll make reservations for each night, I just didn't want to pin down everything to that degree. We prefer B&B's or small hotels over large hotels, if that makes a difference.

Anyway, thanks for any feedback you can give me, and have a Happy New Year!

There's never enough time I find. I spent a week on Iona this summer and still hadn't walked the whole island (though I did cover much of it and have the bog stained shoes to prove it). No frisbee golf but an interesting golf course all the same. Natural sand bunkers and we had to chase the sheep off the green!! Never mind the ocean views. No green fees either. A bit of a struggle to find all the holes. If you arrange your trip to Iona carefully you can also take a side trip on a boat to the island of Staffa. It has a very unique hexagonal column rock formation as a result of volcanic action. It is the same as the Giant's causeway in N. Ireland. At one end is Fingal's cave (Heberdian Overture) and the other a puffin colony. The puffins will come right up to you. You might be a little early for them in May.
You may want to consider taking the ferry from Skye to Tarbert in Harris and then travel up through Lewis (be sure to visit the Calanish Stones) to Stornaway and take the ferry from there to Ullapool. Harris is very rocky and Lewis treeless pretty well except for Stornaway. Plenty more to see but not without taking too much time away from the rest of your itinerary. You'll need to probably stay the night in Stornaway depending on ferry times. Ferries don't run to/from Lewis on Sundays. Cars need to be prebooked on the ferry most of the time. It's also quite expensive for the car.
I like to prebook most accomodations to avoid the last minute desperation and $$.
Enjoy!

OK - most of your itinerary looks fine -- however I have a few comments.

First of all, I don't see the need to stay the night in Mallaig. And there is nothing (really - nothing) to see in Ft William - not really even worth a stop. So you could leave Mull in the morning, drive up along Loch Linnhe, maybe a detour into Glencoe, drive to Glenfinnan and easily be at the Mallaig ferry by mid to late afternoon. I'd go on to Skye and stay that night there. By May the days are starting to get quite long so you would be able to do some sightseeing on Skye a whole day earlier than your current plan.

And the other problem I see - Perth is not such a good base for seeing St Andrews, Edinburgh, Falkand and Roslyn. Those places are spread far and wide.

if you do get to Skye a day early you could be in the Perth/Edinburgh area an extra day. What I would do is just pass through Perth - with maybe a tour of Scone Palace and drive over into Fife for 1 or 2 nights. This is the base for Falkland and St Andrews plus all the fishing villages, etc. Then on to Edinburgh for 2 nights - one day for the mains sites in teh city and the 2nd one to drive down to Roslyn Chapel and maybe Linlithgow. Then on your last full day drive to Stirling, see Inchmahome Priory, drive through the lovely countryside and get to Glasgow in the early evening.

Cslasor

First of all, I wish Fodors would cut and paste your question into their faqs as an ideal example of how it SHOULD be done.

Second, you have got some stuff in there that I've never seen on a Fodors route before and I'd strongly congratulate you on them.

Third- there are some things you're doing that I wouldn't do and some that you're not doing that I would, but on the assumption that this is YOUR trip and not mine, I'd suggest/comment on the following:-

May 11: Arrive Glasgow around 10 a.m., hire a car and drive toward Oban.

Go west from the airport and over the Erskine Bridge to avoid the Glasgow conglomeration. At this time of year yyou're ahead of the crowds and going up Loch Lomond side will be lovely.

Stop at the Loch Fyne Oyster Bar just before you get in Inverary and stop in Inverary itself. Get a good guide to kilmartin Glen because the visitor centre is at the top end and you'll have passed everything by the time you get there. Just outside Lochgilphead on the left side of the road, about hlaf a mile walk from teh car park- it's signposted- there's a huge slab of rock projecting out of the ground that's covered with cup and ring marks. Worth stopping for. Arduaine will be at its best. You might want to stop at the Kilmartin Hotel or the Cuilfail in Kilmelford on the basis that there's nowhere great in Oban. OTOH, there'a fantasticc new seafood restaurant in Oban, the name of which is ecaping me which is getting great reviews.

I don't know what Frisbee golf is, and I'd quite like to keep t that way.

Consider spening a night on Iona. I never have but everyone says it's wonderful after the tourists have left.
Port appin is nothing to look at, and I'd miss that out. Fort William is worth getting through as fast as you can. Glencoe is well worth a visit as is Glenfinnan. An alternative to that route, however, is to take the little ferry from Fishnish on Mull to Locahline and drive up to Strontian and round Ardnamurchan and Moidart to Arisaig. Very remote and unspoiled, but you do miss those big sights. I agree with Janis that Mallaig's not a place to get hooked on. However, as an alternative to going over to Skye, consider stopping at Arisaig or Morar, just for the beauty of the places.

If you have time on the way to Ullapool, take the long road round past Invercarron, and over the Beallach nam Bo to Applecross and through Glen Torridon. In any case, stop past Plockton on the way north.

I see a pre-historic theme and would suggest two other things for you to see when yo're at Leanach- Go to Rosemarkie and visit the museum, and wgo as far south as Forres on the Moray Firth and see Sueno's stone. You could pick up Cawdr Castle if you wre so inclined.

If you want to see the stones at Meigle come along teh south side of the Spey from Rothiemurchus to Nethy Bridge then cross up through Tomintoul and over the Lecht to Corgarff, then through Glen Gairn to upper Deeside. maybe stay in Braemar or Ballater. There's wonderful scenery round here too, and you can pick up on the royal theme and heaps more castles. You can either come south through Glen shee to Blairgowrie, from whence it's a short hop step and jump to Meigle or, come east to Banchory, south over the Cairn o' Mount and ditto. Gives you a chance to pick up Glamis castle, should you choose.

Please feel free to come back for more input

Whilst Perth is a very good touring centre, Janis is right- not for the places you've listed. Somewhere in the East neuk of Fife, Kinross or Culross would be better.

In May it's absolutely unimportant to have reservations unless a particular place is important to you.

I don't really do B&Bs but I can make small hotel suggestions once you've firmed up where you think you'll be.

Sheila's tip about the ferry from Fishnish on Mull to Locahline is what I was also initially going to suggest - but that route bypasses Glenfinan. I added glencoe because you would be passing quite near.

But if Glenfinan isn't a "must" for you, then definitely take the ferry off Mull over to Locahline and on to Mallaig. This route goes through some terrific scenery, would let you see Morar and Arisaig and still get over to Skye in the early to late afternoon.

Thanks for all the advice. And thanks for the compliment, Sheila! I am retooling the itinerary to take advantage of the suggestions and will repost it when I'm done.

I've been thinking about and planning this trip for a year already, and it's so exciting to be getting so close to actually going! Happily, I made the airline reservations right before the prices went up due to rising fuel costs so I consider that a good start to the trip. [...smile...]

Is there a reason you don't want to stay in Edinburgh ? I know you said you're not into cities but you are into history and there's a *lot* of history to see.

I'd recommend 2 nights on Iona instead of on Mull : it is really special after the daytrippers have left; as nenmc said, you can fit in a trip to Staffa; and IMO you can see what there is to see on Mull just by driving to and from Fionnphort (for the Iona ferry) maybe with lunch in Tobermory.

Allright, I'll bite - what the **** is frisbee golf?

ahem - golf played w/ a frisbee . . . . .

(instead of w/ clubs and a ball)

And you throw it into a basket on a pole instead of hitting into a hole in the ground. The winner is whoever has the fewest number of throws at the end of the round - which is usually 18 holes, just like ball golf.

We're still debating whether we'll spend the night on Iona. We can't take our car over there, can we?

No - you can't take your car to Iona. But it is a very small island and you wouldn't need it. You can park overnight in Fionnphort.

If you decide against staying on Iona, I'd stay right there in Fionnphort. It is a tiny village and you can sit on the small beach and watch the most amazing sunsets. The sun sets directly behind Iona and the sky turning 10 different colors w/ island and the Abbey visible across the sound - truly magical.

Ahhh... "Sunsets" is the magic word. I do love a good sunset, so Fionnphort will be at the top of the list of places to start looking for accomodations. Thanks, Janis!

You can try this B&B - a lovely house and wonderful food. The pub/restaurant is right next door on one side and the post office/General Store/iron mongers on the other side, and the little beach right in front. A very short walk down to the Iona ferry and boats to Staffa/Treshnish Isles. If you get one of the two front bedrooms you can see Iona and the Abbey from your bedside.

www.iona.bed.breakfast.mull.com/

I'm curious about the comments on nothing to see at Ft. William. Granted it was 1998 when I went through Scotland, but I always thought if I went back I'd stay there. Would it not be a good base for the Isle of Skye or should one just plan to stay overnight on the island. Also, if you pre-book your expensive car on the ferry, and your rental company upgrades you, wondering where that leaves one.

Ft William really has nothing much to recommend it. It is a busy crossroads and absolutely full of B&Bs. But it is sort of like Inverness but on a much smaller scale -- in a great area but staying IN the town isn't really a good idea.

If you want to stay in the general Ft William area, there are nicer places nearby.

It isn't too long a drive over to the ferry at Mallaig so you easily could do a day trip to Skye. But if you have the time, staying over at least one night on the Isle would be better.

As for the car/possible upgrade - I personally don't usually book my specific ferry trips until I'm "in country" and know exactly which ferry I want to take and what my car is. You can book your CalMac tickets from Edinburgh or any major Tourist Information Center.

If your husband or you enjoy golf with a little ball and club, consider stopping at the Traigh Golf Links, just north of Arisaig and south of Mallaig. It's a short 9 hole course and can be played pretty quickly if you don't stop to gaze at the spectacular views. The views disappear on the back half of the course, but return on the ninth hole. The price when I played there three years ago was pretty reasonable. Here is the link to the site:
http://www.traighgolf.co.uk/

Have fun!

Bill

Thanks for car ferry info. In Alaska I think they book up months ahead; just assumed it was the same everywhere.

After reading the excellent suggestions I've received and doing some more research, here is my revised itinerary. Feedback is welcome, especially if I seem to be underestimating driving times!

May 11 (Wed): Arrive Glasgow around 10 a.m., hire a car and drive toward Oban via Lochgilphead. Things to see along the way: Kilmartin Glen, Crarae Gardens, Arduaine Gardens. Spend night in Kilmartin or Kilmelford area.

May 12 & 13 (Thur/Fri): Go north through Oban and explore Glencoe. Return to Oban and catch afternoon or evening ferry to Mull. Things to see: Iona Abbey*, Frisbee golf on Isla of Ulva*. Spend two nights on Mull, probably in Fionnphort.

May 14 (Sat): Take ferry from Fishnish to Lochaline, drive to Mallaig via Strontian and Point of Ardnamurchan. Sidetrack east to Glenfinnan, then head to Mallaig and catch a late afternoon or evening ferry to Skye. Spend night in southern Skye.

May 15 & 16 (Sun/Mon): Sightsee on Skye. Things to see: Portree, Dunvegan Castle, the Cuillins. Spend two more nights on Skye (Portree maybe?).

May 17 (Tues): Take Kyle of Lochalsh bridge and drive to Ullapool. Things to see along the way: Eilean Donan Castle, Plockton, Inverewe Garden. If time and weather permit, drive out to Applecross (I understand the road can be rather steep and winding, and I'm not sure two Floridians would want to tackle that if it is storming). Spend night in or near Ullapool. Frisbee golf here!

May 18, 19 & 20 (Wed/Thur/Fri): Drive to Inverness, hopefully by heading north from Ullapool to Dumrunie, then west to Lochinver, north to Kylesku, then southeast along Loch Shinn to A9 and Inverness. Spend three nights, hopefully at Leaneach Farm. Things to see: Clava Cairns, Culloden Battlefield, Loch Ness (sorry...), Foyers, Urquhart Castle, Pluscarden Abbey, Rosemarkie, Sueno's Stone, Cawdor Castle.

May 21 (Sat): Drive south on A9, then down the south side of the Spey. Things to see: Rothiemurchus & Abernethy forests, the Cairngorms. Spend night in Braemar or Ballater, depending on which way we decide to go the next day.

May 22 & 23 (Sun/Mon): Head south to Dundee, either by heading east to Banchory or by heading west to Blairgowrie. Either way we'll stop and see the Meigle Stones on the way. Spend two nights in Dundee area. Things to see: Discovery Point, St. Andrews (there's a Frisbee golf course there, of course), Falkland Palace,

May 24 (Tue): Drive to Edinburgh. Things to see: Edinburgh Castle & Royal Mile, Roslyn Chapel. Spend night in Edinburgh area.

May 25: Drive to Glasgow. Things to see: Stirling Castle. Spend night in Glasgow.

May 26: Plane leaves Glasgow at 10:50 a.m.

I have a question about the ferries. We're trying to be conservative and make reservations for later in the day to allow time for sightseeing. If we do arrive at the ferry early, and there is space available on an earlier boat, will they allow us to change our reservation to the earlier boat? Or do we have to take the one we've reserved?

Thanks!

'In Alaska I think they book up months ahead; just assumed it was the same everywhere'.


you're kidding, right? Why should it be the same everywhere?

Your new overall itinerary looks fine -- except it sort of breaks down on the last two days.

Initial comments: You could of course stay in two different B&Bs on Skye - but you'd probably be better off just driving from Armadale to your Skye B&B for three nights.

In May the days are getting long and you will have daylight quite late. You won't be driving in the dark and it would be better to stay in one place 3 nights instead of moving. Besides, many B&Bs give a discount for stays of 3 nights or more. Portree is fine but I reall prefer staying in teh Sconser/Sligachen area. This is sort of in the center of Skye and is at the major crossroads to get to all parts of the island.

I would not stay in Dundee, it isn't the greatest place for scenery/sites. Just cross the bridge and stay in Fife nearer to St Andrews. Once you are to Dundee you are a very quick drive from St Andrews so I'd just keep going and stay in Fife.

Now your couple of problem days - - -

In one day you want to drive into Edinburgh, visit the Castle, walk the Royal Mile and visit Holyrood, and then leave town and drive down to Roslin and visit Roslyn Chapel. This is a nearly impossible day. The drive into central Edinburgh from the motorway and finding parking can take an hour or more depending on the traffic. Touring the castle alone takes a minimum of 2 or 3 hours, then the Royal Mile takes a fair bit of time. There are many places you will want to stop along the Mile (Camera Obscura, St Giles Cathedral, Gladstone's Land and Holyrood at the very minimum).

Then driving out of town is usually time consuming. Roslin/Roslyn Chaple are very interesting but it is very likely you would not get there in time to see the chaple.

If you want to squeeze in all of those things plus Stirling, I'd consider cutting one day from somewhere earlier in your trip and add one day to the Edinburgh/Stirling area.

About the ferry - yes - if there is space you can get on an earlier sailing. And in May (since you won't be sailing on a bank holiday weekend), there is a fairly good chance there will be space.