Julie

<BR>Just returned from six days in Paris. Temps were in the 45 degree range and periodic sprinkles but the sun peaked through for a couple of days and it was great for walking. <BR>Stayed at the Parc St. Severin on rue de la Parcheminerie in the 5th Arrondisement. We’ve tried to stay there before without any luck getting reservations. This time we not only got in but were lucky enough to get a large room (#50) that had a bathroom about the size of other hotel rooms we’ve stayed in in that area of Paris. <BR><BR>We have been to Paris several times before so I worked out itineraries to try to see some of the less touristy sites and get into some of the less frequented arrondisements. Combed the Eyewitness Guide to Paris and posts on this forum for ideas and put together some pretty ambitious daily itineraries, often starting with a market that would take us into a new area. Turns out my itineraries were very ambitious indeed and I’ve returned with a list of “still-not-seen” sites that can be the “starter” for planning our next trip back. Here’s what we did manage to get in.<BR><BR>SITES<BR>Saw a couple of the Passages in the 2nd Arr.--The little shops, tea rooms and workshops in some of the older passages are so quaint and charming that even the non-shoppers (read that, men) in our party of four were entranced. Still need to do a thorough job of seeing all of these gems. <BR><BR>Went to several markets of various different stripes— Auteuil in the 16th, Joinville in the 19th, Rue Cler in the 7th, Daumesnil and Aligre in the 12th--some noisy and crowded, some spacious and refined but all with great looking—and tasting—food. <BR><BR>Took a walk in the 16th to see some of the great residential architecture. Used the Eyewitness 90 minute walk in the Auteuil area to see some great Art Nouveau beauties by Grimaud and colleagues and the modern (1920’s) Villa La Roche by Corbusier. <BR><BR>Explored the Marais in greater depth including the Rue des Rosiers with its wonderful kosher eateries. <BR><BR>Drank at the Baron Rouge wine bar just off the Aligre market. This place is something else. About 30 wines available by the glass. Also possible to bring or buy your large plastic jug and fill it from the barrels. Plenty of regulars. <BR><BR>Walked La Promenade Plantee in the 12th. Last year we discovered the Viaduct des Arts which runs about half the length of the Ave. Daumesnil. It’s made up of expensive artist shops in arched spaces created from the remains of an old railroad track. We were enchanted by it but had no idea that above it runs an urban park permitting you to walk above the city in greenery while you look down over the hustle and bustle below. Some shrubs and early daffodils were starting to bloom. Quiet and very pretty. <BR>

Julie

Shopped Bon Marche, the left bank department store and its separate building of gourmet foods, La Grande Epicerie. Surely this must be foodie heaven. Also shopped along the Rue de Cherche Midi and Rue du Dragon and others in the 6th as suggested in threads I’ve read on this forum. <BR><BR>Saw a ballet buffoon/opera at the Opera Garnier. A French opera called Platee with a male playing the lead role of a female frog being courted by several gods. Though we could understand none of the words, the costumes and dancing were highly amusing and the Garnier Opera interior was a delight to be in. <BR><BR>Walked to the Arena Lutece in the 5th and saw a soccer game in progress apparently as a fitness activity for the area firefighters whose truck was parked nearby. <BR><BR>Took the metro to Basilica St. Denis in the northernmost reaches of the city (actually in the suburbs beyond) to see the beautiful tombs of the Bourbon kings and their families. Especially enjoyed those of Pepin le Bref and his wife Matilde (or somesuch) of the Gross Tieds—Pepin the short and Big Foot Mathilda. Such colorful monikers. <BR><BR>Spent one day in Rouen, taking the hour train ride there from the Gare St. Lazare. Saw the Vieux Marche church and area where Joan of Arc was burned at the stake. Also their three most beautiful cathedrals, Hotel de Ville and Palace of Justice. It was a nice day out of the city and I thank those who responded to my question on this site that it would be an infinitely doable day trip. It was. <BR><BR>Along the way to and from these sites we saw many interesting neighborhoods and tiny charming squares and parks we hadn’t seen before so I did fulfill my interest in seeing some new things while still seeing some of the old standbys—Place des Voges, Hotel de Ville, Eiffel Tower, Champs des Mars, etc, etc. Did not, however, get to a number of places I had hoped to see. Next time I intend to see/do the following:<BR>Willi’s Wine Bar, Le Sancerre another wine bar, more of the Passages, Parc Andre Citroen, Alexander Nevsky Russian Orthodox Cathedral in the 8th—open only 3 – 5 Tues and Fri, Musee Jacquemart Andre, Musee Carnavalet, Chinatown near the Place d’Italie in the 13th, Grande Arche la Defense, Val de Grace hospital church open sporadically but supposedly very beautiful, the Paris Mosque. And someday I must see the interior of the Pompideau and its collection. The list goes on and on. I’ll never get my fill of this wonderful city nor see all of her many treasures but what fun to try. <BR>

Julie

FOOD<BR>As hard as I work to develop itineraries to see new sites while still dropping by some of our old favorites, I work even harder to plan meals that will balance our desire to return again and again to our old favorites while still finding new ones to become our favorites to return to next trip. With the help of my guidebooks, clippings from the New York Times travel section and posts from this site, I think I did pretty well this time. Though we’ve done three star restaurants on previous trips, we stuck pretty well to small bistros and quaint little places this time. By virtue of a grandmother who fried bloodsausage as a periodic treat and Latvian friends who are into various and sundry organ meats, I’ve developed a taste for some of the more bizarre cuts one sees displayed at the market and finds on menus of some of the old-time bistros that make it into the coffee table books trying to preserve the best of old-fashioned French cooking. I was able to indulge myself at several of the places we stopped this time. Here’s a rundown of our best picks and some of the more exotic things we had to eat at them.<BR><BR>Chez Clovis on Rue Berger in Les Halles area across the park from St. Eustache church—This is a long time favorite. A couple in our party of four had the wonderful and very garlicky duck confit. I had saussison chaude with cabbage and the most bizarre appetizer of the trip—marrow bones or Os de moelle as the French call it. I was expecting something on the order of osso buco, round bones cut in sections about an inch high or so with small amounts of marrow available to scoop out to put on bread. What I got were bones about a foot long, each cut in half lengthwise to reveal thick, greasy marrow running the length of them. It was overwhelming but good. Kind of looked like something our old gigantic malamute would have gnawed on for hours. The shock value alone was worth it and this was only the first meal of the trip. <BR><BR>L’Ecluse wine bar in the 6th on Quai des Grands Augustins. We met a third couple here for drinks before dinner and had some excellent Bordeaux and a good wine lesson from our waiter. <BR><BR>Les Bouchons de Francious Clerc on rue Hotel Colbert in the 5th—again an old favorite that made all six persons in our party very happy. I again indulged in some piggy exotica with a terrine of veal tongue and headcheese. Served lukewarm, it was truly wonderful. This place serves excellent wines at prices just above cost, its primary claim to fame, but its food is worthy of the company of the wines it keeps. <BR><BR>Chez Vong on rue de la Grande-Truanderie in the 1st just off the ave. of sex shops called St. Denis. The best and most beautiful Chinese restaurant we’ve ever eaten in. Like a small cave with incense burning and beautiful palms and greenery here and there alongside tasteful Chinese furnishings. The maitre d’/owner is usually present and tries hard to make you feel at home and welcome. We put our party of six in the hands of the staff and were served wonderfully tasty, beautiful dishes starting with steamed dim sum and large scallops in their shells, then a dish in a basket made of deepfried, crispy potato sticks. One of the other dishes came on a plate with a carving from a sweet potato. Can’t remember what it was, probably a bird or a dragon or somesuch. You get the idea. Great food, beautifully served with great service. <BR>

Julie

Ambassade de Auverge in the third by the Rambuteau metro station. We first went to this restaurant when I picked up one of those little cards for it that another passenger had dropped on the floor of our plane on the way to Paris. It specializes in food from the Auvergne region of France and especially aligote, made of mashed potatoes, cantal cheese and garlic that is mixed and beaten until it can be hung in yard long strings from the wooden spoons they use to beat it with. This is served with coarse sausages also from the Auvergne. <BR><BR>Grand Caf&eacute; on the Blvd Cappuchins in the 9th right by the opera.was handy for after the opera and a visual delight but not a culinary triumph. <BR><BR>P’tit Troquet in the 7th was my favorite for d&eacute;cor. It’s so tiny and so Old-Paris-cute with a zinc bar about 4 feet long and a darling bathroom with teal blue flowered tiles. The husband and wife owners do a great job as the Fodor site posters had indicated. I had rabbit in mustard, something I’ve been meaning to try for years. Fun and nicely done. <BR><BR>La Biche au Bois in the 12th is highly rated in Zagat (21 for food on their 30 point scale with an average of meal price of 214 francs—a tremendous value). I booked a table for lunch before leaving home and plainly we’d not have been able to try this place had we not had reservations. It was packed, body to body with local regulars including a table of six elderly gentlemen who sat next to us and ate with gusto and drank with abandon. Our waiter said they’d been coming regularly for many years. Just watching them was a treat. Had a terrine of the house and their signature coq au vin. A fun meal and a great waiter who had lived several years in Toronto before returning to France. <BR><BR>Le Violon d’Ingres in the 7th—We’d eaten here a couple of years ago shortly after Chef Christain Constant, formerly of the Crillon hotel, had opened it. In the intervening years he’s gained and since lost a second star and redecorated the restaurant. Service was not as good as our first trip but the menu was still fun to work through. I couldn’t resist having his caramelized pigs feet over riced potatoes, a refined version of some of the wonderful pig products I’d been able to have on this trip. <BR><BR>Chez Julien in the 4th, was featured in a scene from the Accidental Tourist with William Hurt. It’s one of the smallest, coziest and most romantic restaurants we’ve been to in Paris. Alas, flawed this time by a woman seated next to us smoking a pipe—how unromantic. Nonetheless it had real candles on the tables (something no other restaurant did this trip), good food and fun wines. It was a perfect last dinner in Paris. <BR><BR>Saved the best for the last—Chez Maitre Paul. Posters here said it is great and they know whereof they speak. I had their sausage and potatoes in oil for an appetizer and among the four of us we had Yellow Chicken in Jura wine, Chicken in gratinated cream, and Cassoulet. What tastes. What wonderful food. If only I could find chickens like those they use in their wonderful dishes. It was just swell. Can’t wait to go back. <BR><BR>Happy to answer any questions. <BR>

Kathy

Julie, What a wonderful trip report! Thank-you so much for the in-depth information on the restaurants you enjoyed.I have been to some of them in the past, could not agree more on Maitre Paul- wonderful food!! We are going back to Paris this spring, I am planning out where to eat our 14 lunches and dinners (we will be there one week). You have given some great suggestions- Thanks Again....

R

Did you call the rest. directly? Kathy, if you call them all doesn't that get expensive? Do they have e-mail that one could make reservations on? 4 of us will be there the end of April and I would like to make some reservations, especially for dinner. Thanks for the great report.

c

Julie-what a good report! How much it makes me want to get myself to Paris as soon as possible! Interesting about Le Violin d'Ingres~we sent a client of my husbands and she came back complaining about it and we thought she must be daft,we were there 2 years ago, and it was wonderful...I guess nothing stays the same.<BR>Except Paris<BR> Only questions -you were on some good shopping streets, what did you buy? <BR>C~

pj

I am going to Paris 3/21/02 with 2 of my friends. 4th trip it is shopping!!!! Thank you for the report, we will check out viaduct des art and the other markets. Probably some womans resale shops as well. The weather will be up for grabs though!!! Thanks again, PJ

jahoulih

Delightful report as always, Julie, especially the food section.<BR><BR>Here's my pedantic correction--maybe it'll qualify me for the Pompous Ass Club: Pepin's wife (and Charlemagne's mother) was Berthe au grand pied, not Mathilde, and Pepin wasn't a Bourbon, he was a Carolingian (the kings of France weren't Bourbons until Henri IV).

r

Superb trip report Julie. I am inspired to go back soon. I, too, would like to know if you called all the restaurants from the states for reservations or is there some other way to do that. <BR><BR>I shall print your report out for future reference and look forward to hearing about your future trips. Thank you very much. rebecca

Julie

Answers to questions so far: <BR><BR>c--The only thing I bought was two Nogent paring knives at one of the street markets. I'm much more of a looker than a shopper which makes packing to go home easier. Bowling shoes are everywhere. So are super pointed toes--about 5 to 6 inches in front, some decorated with zippers. Look excrutiating. Peasant blouses are back. <BR><BR>pj--Viaduc des arts is a very arty and expensive place to actually shop. More fun for looking than buying unless you're willing to pay really big bucks. <BR><BR>jahoulih--Thanks for your correction. I couldn't remember exactly and didn't write it down. Actually never expected anyone would really know the correct lineage. <BR><BR>R and r--Here's how I handle reservations. Make up my list of places to eat. Decide which ones are absolute musts--those I'd be crushed not to be able to go to. Fit these into our daily schedules--often they are the dinner, rather than lunch selections. Make calls on them from home. Haven't gotten the bill on the calls for this trip but don't expect any individual call to be over $3.00. I'll let you know if I'm wrong. I time the calls for just before dinner Pais time, around 11:00 cst. Ask immediately if they speak English (someone did at each place) and ask away. None took over a minute. Out of 12 meals, I had advance reservations for 5, 3 dinners and 2 lunches. The lunch reservation at Chez Maitre Paul was probably unnecessary. Place only half full on a Saturday. <BR><BR>To be continued in another reply. Don't want to lose this and have to start over.

Julie

Continuation of info on dining reservations:<BR><BR>You can get in to many/most non-starred restaurants with a reservation made a day or two in advance and often on the same day or even by walking in. Save yourself some money by only calling from home on the must do dinner places you've selected for the first couple of nights and either call youself or have your concierge call for you on the rest once you get there. For those situations where you need to remain flexibile, e.g. lunch during an itinerary that might have you at point x or y or z at the time you start getting hungry, have a list of places in the vicinity that you would like to try and walk in. We were able to do this at Chez Clovis, in Rouen, and two other places. We also had no reservations at Chez Vong or at Les Bouchons and were able to be seated with a party of 6 for dinner. Much depends on the size of the restaurant involved and the size of your party, 2 or 4 are more likely to be accommodated than 6. Having said all of this, I must also say that we called ahead for reservations at Regalade, a highly rated but inexpensive bistro in the 14th and were told they were filled for the next two weeks. <BR><BR>I usually make a list by arrondisement of restaurants I've read about and would like to try. That way, if we find ourselves somewhere that we hadn't planned to be as the need for lunch or dinner arises I can quickly formulate a plan to not "waste a meal opportunity." The Zagat guide is a particularly good investment, worthy of carrying about to aid in this pursuit. <BR><BR>By the way, if any of you are interested in dining at any of the places I've written of, I should be careful to point out that though Chez Vong is a Chinese restaurant and would therefore generally carry an expectation of a reasonable price tag, it can get very pricey, on a par with some of the one stars in town. You can keep it down by ordering from the menu yourself rather than placing yourself at the mercy of the staff's selections, though wonderful, they do drive the price up. Also, I especially recommend Chez Clovis for history buffs. It dates back to the days when Les Halles was the wholesale food market of Paris and apparently has changed very little since then. It has a wonderful patina of age--and a good Sancerre.

lisa

Ooh, I'm drooling...<BR><BR>So glad you enjoyed Chez Maitre Paul! I'm going back in May & can't wait!

Ursula

Julie: Nice reports, thanks. <BR>And please try to make it to the Centre Pompidou next time. The exhibitions (permanent) and always some temporary ones are superbe. Right now, there is one starting tomorrow (till June 24) regarding surrealist painters such as Magritte, etc. It's on my list for May.<BR>Don't miss the view from the terrace on the top floor and at least a drink at "Georges".

Maren

Julie,<BR>Thanks for the valuable restaurant information. A question: We will be visiting Paris with a friend who eats fish and shellfish, but not meat or poultry. At the restaurants you ate in, with their emphasis on meat, were there enough alternatives so that a semi-vegetarian won't feel left out? Which ones would you recommend?

Wendy

Julie, What an excellent trip report! Thank you! <BR><BR>As a collective group I vote to never mention Chez Maitre Paul again. I fear it will be taken over as the restaurants recommended by Rick Steves! haha! Oh how I LOVE that chicken!<BR><BR>

Julie

Maren, most of the restaurants have fish and shellfish choices. Chez Clovis might not have, but certainly Les Bouchons, Chez Vong, Le Violong, Chez Maitre Paul and Chez Julien did. Not sure of P'tit Troquet but I would guess it did too. Got a copy of the menu from Chez Maitre Paul. They had Marinated salmon as one of their appetizers, and 4 fish dishes--filet of sole, filet of turbot, filet of sandre and a millefeuille of salmon and turbot. Though none in our party had any of these dishes, I can't imagine them not being wonderful too. At some of the better Paris restaurants it's not uncommon to see more fish and shellfish dishes than meat and poultry. Lamb appears more frequently than it does in the States.

Janice

Julie, <BR>Loved your report. Can give us an idea of the price range of some of the restaurants & the Hotel Parc St Severin? Thanks.

Don

Sounds great. I've never been to Paris but I want to go and will have time in mid-april. my question is should I go or should I wait until the summer when the weather is better?

Carol

Hi Julie,<BR><BR>Can you tell me how long you were in Rouen? Did you need a full day to visit the town and sights? I'm trying to figure out which train to take from Paris and which train back to Paris. I want enough time there but don't want to get back late. This will be in June.