Another fantastic December Paris adventure
Dec 19th, 2023, 01:36 PM
#21
There is a covered passage off of Blvd. St. Germain on
Cour Du Commerce Sainte-Andre.
We stopped at Brasserie Des Pres without a reservation. It looked quite busy but we were led to the 2nd floor and seated in an attractive room.
Our server, Yousef, was so funny and helped us with the menu.
We decided on salad and steak frittes along with some good red wine. The food was very good and at the end he treated us to a pear liquor shot.
Cheers!
Very comfortable room
Outside of restaurant in the passageway
The restaurant was filling up as we dined. On the way out we went to the restroom. It was up on the 3rd floor where it turned out to be a dance club packed with young people (well, younger than us, we’re old) The music was loud and it looked like a good time.
Found the restroom. Very different for us Americans. We are not used to co-Ed restrooms in the US.
Mirrored doors held cubicles and then you came out to a water trough to wash your hands. Probably seem a little odd meeting a cute guy or gal while washing your hands.
As we walked outside in the passageway n front of the restaurant we had to laugh. Our daughter said, “I think I smoked a whole cigarette walking that area”
It seems that so many more people here smoke cigarettes than in the US.
Tomorrow we’re living large….Lunch at Le Train Bleu!
They we’re totally booked for December but thanks to a Fodorite who told us to email we did get a lunch reservation.
Cour Du Commerce Sainte-Andre.
We stopped at Brasserie Des Pres without a reservation. It looked quite busy but we were led to the 2nd floor and seated in an attractive room.
Our server, Yousef, was so funny and helped us with the menu.
We decided on salad and steak frittes along with some good red wine. The food was very good and at the end he treated us to a pear liquor shot.
Cheers!
Very comfortable room
Outside of restaurant in the passageway
The restaurant was filling up as we dined. On the way out we went to the restroom. It was up on the 3rd floor where it turned out to be a dance club packed with young people (well, younger than us, we’re old) The music was loud and it looked like a good time.
Found the restroom. Very different for us Americans. We are not used to co-Ed restrooms in the US.
Mirrored doors held cubicles and then you came out to a water trough to wash your hands. Probably seem a little odd meeting a cute guy or gal while washing your hands.
As we walked outside in the passageway n front of the restaurant we had to laugh. Our daughter said, “I think I smoked a whole cigarette walking that area”
It seems that so many more people here smoke cigarettes than in the US.
Tomorrow we’re living large….Lunch at Le Train Bleu!
They we’re totally booked for December but thanks to a Fodorite who told us to email we did get a lunch reservation.
Dec 20th, 2023, 07:38 AM
#25
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“ We’ve usually stayed in apartments on Ile St. Louis (8 different ones) but unfortunately since the Notre Dame fire Ile St. Louis isn’t the same. Very quiet day and night.”
Thank you for the report. It all looks lovely.
BTW, I couldn’t agree more about Ile ST. Louis…I stayed nearby on my July visit to Paris . Disappointing.
Thank you for the report. It all looks lovely.
BTW, I couldn’t agree more about Ile ST. Louis…I stayed nearby on my July visit to Paris . Disappointing.
Dec 20th, 2023, 10:44 AM
#26
Day 3….Le Train Bleu
We’ve been there a few times for dinner but this was the first time for lunch. Menu is the same. 12:30 on Wednesday was the only time available during our week in Paris.
When we arrived half the tables were empty. We were wondering about that but in a short time every tale was full.
It’s like dining at Versailles, very fancy. The nice thing is that you don’t have to be dressed fancy. It’s in a train station after all so many people are casual…..nice casual.
Our waiter Joseph was a real pro, explained the food, suggested a wine to go with each item, and his carving skills on the leg of lamb my husband and I ordered was magnificent. Our daughter ordered scallops which were cooked perfectly.
We’ve been there a few times for dinner but this was the first time for lunch. Menu is the same. 12:30 on Wednesday was the only time available during our week in Paris.
When we arrived half the tables were empty. We were wondering about that but in a short time every tale was full.
It’s like dining at Versailles, very fancy. The nice thing is that you don’t have to be dressed fancy. It’s in a train station after all so many people are casual…..nice casual.
Our waiter Joseph was a real pro, explained the food, suggested a wine to go with each item, and his carving skills on the leg of lamb my husband and I ordered was magnificent. Our daughter ordered scallops which were cooked perfectly.
Dec 20th, 2023, 11:08 AM
#27
A few more…..
Amuse bouche of chestnut purée, delicious
Now that’s a ceiling
Gorgeous
Friends wanted an “action shot” of my husband doing something. We said his action was signing all the bills every day.
After a leisurely lunch we walked around more Christmas markets around the St. Michel fountain. Bought some trinkets for the granddaughters
Later in the evening we went out for dinner….Yikes!…Is that all we do is eat?
Wanted something light after that huge lunch.
Le Pre Aux Clercs on Rue Bonaparte near our apartment fit the bill. Onion soup and Salad Nicoise was the perfect way to end our day. Of course Mr. Meat had a hamburger and fries. All was very tasty. The room very inviting.
Tomorrow we head to The Marais for a baking class in a bakery. Baguettes, madelines, croissants…..what fun!
Amuse bouche of chestnut purée, delicious
Now that’s a ceiling
Gorgeous
Friends wanted an “action shot” of my husband doing something. We said his action was signing all the bills every day.
After a leisurely lunch we walked around more Christmas markets around the St. Michel fountain. Bought some trinkets for the granddaughters
Later in the evening we went out for dinner….Yikes!…Is that all we do is eat?
Wanted something light after that huge lunch.
Le Pre Aux Clercs on Rue Bonaparte near our apartment fit the bill. Onion soup and Salad Nicoise was the perfect way to end our day. Of course Mr. Meat had a hamburger and fries. All was very tasty. The room very inviting.
Tomorrow we head to The Marais for a baking class in a bakery. Baguettes, madelines, croissants…..what fun!
Dec 21st, 2023, 11:15 AM
#29
Day 4…..baking and shopping day and a not so good dinner.
We booked a baking class at Miss Manon bakery off of Rue de Rivoli. Maximum of 8 in the class and my husband said he’d do it after I showed him photos and reviews with guys in them.
Turned out we were the only 3, so a private class.
One of the highlights of our trip. Started with coffee and some sweets and off we went. Downstairs, upstairs, downstairs, upstairs, rolling baguettes and croissants, filling Madeline molds, we did it all. And then took home all of our work which was more than we could ever eat even though we tried.
These people work hard, come in at 1am. This bakery makes 1,500 baguettes a day, some for hotels etc. Our baker said next week through New Years they will make 6,000 a day. Amazing! They do have some big machines but a lot of it is still hands on. Along with all the cakes and other goodies this is a huge operation.
Miss Manon bakery
Adding melted butter
Making Madelines
This is what we took home
Eat up!
We booked a baking class at Miss Manon bakery off of Rue de Rivoli. Maximum of 8 in the class and my husband said he’d do it after I showed him photos and reviews with guys in them.
Turned out we were the only 3, so a private class.
One of the highlights of our trip. Started with coffee and some sweets and off we went. Downstairs, upstairs, downstairs, upstairs, rolling baguettes and croissants, filling Madeline molds, we did it all. And then took home all of our work which was more than we could ever eat even though we tried.
These people work hard, come in at 1am. This bakery makes 1,500 baguettes a day, some for hotels etc. Our baker said next week through New Years they will make 6,000 a day. Amazing! They do have some big machines but a lot of it is still hands on. Along with all the cakes and other goodies this is a huge operation.
Miss Manon bakery
Adding melted butter
Making Madelines
This is what we took home
Eat up!
Dec 21st, 2023, 11:24 AM
#30
The rest of the day we shopped in small places where our daughter bought a lot of clothes. Good thing WP we brought an extra bag to get it all home.
We enjoyed walking through the Hotel DeVille Christmas market. The weather was so nice that there was a jazz quartet playing on the street. Very festive.
We enjoyed walking through the Hotel DeVille Christmas market. The weather was so nice that there was a jazz quartet playing on the street. Very festive.
Dec 21st, 2023, 11:36 AM
#31
We were looking forward to dinner that night at L’ilot Vache on Ile St. Louis. Through the years we have had some very good meals there. The last time in 2019 it was wonderful and every table was full.
This time there were only 2 other tables and the food was mediocre. Since we arrived at 7pm, a bit early, we expected it to fill up as we ate. That did not happen. The salmon was good but the rest of the food was not up to par.
As I said earlier, Ile St. Louis has really slowed down with the Notre Dame fire and reconstruction. Very quiet night and day.
Coming up tomorrow Opera Garnier, Galeries Lafayette, fashion show, and more food.
This time there were only 2 other tables and the food was mediocre. Since we arrived at 7pm, a bit early, we expected it to fill up as we ate. That did not happen. The salmon was good but the rest of the food was not up to par.
As I said earlier, Ile St. Louis has really slowed down with the Notre Dame fire and reconstruction. Very quiet night and day.
Coming up tomorrow Opera Garnier, Galeries Lafayette, fashion show, and more food.
Dec 21st, 2023, 11:49 AM
#32
Such fun! You are really making me want to plan to get back to Paris! I hate when yo go back to a fav place and its not good. We had a favorite place we ate Cassoulet at and went back one year and it wasn't good. So disappointing.
Dec 21st, 2023, 12:35 PM
#33
I have had mediocre meals in favorite restaurants from time to time, and I alway wonder what the problem might have been. For example, the head chef does not work 7 days a week, so what happens on his days off? And it is also true that since covid, many restaurants have had huge staffing problems, including in the kitchen, even though salaries have been increased in the service industry at least 15-20%. But it has also been mentioned that many people who worked in those places without thinking about it in the past realized during the two years of covid that it was much too tough a job for the salary, especially when there was an unwanted hole in the work day between 15:00 and 19:00. Since restaurant workers often cannot afford to live inside Paris, the commute back and forth was just not worth it.
Dec 21st, 2023, 12:49 PM
#34
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Fabulous. Ditto everything! Rhody and I trudged up the stairs, luggage attached, to Train Bleu one afternoon. Luggage was stored and we were immediately stowed in a small room with wine and a passing cat, while our table was being set up. The place was empty. Even though our menu was in Spanish, we were so happy. Yes, TPAYT, going from one meal (avec le vin) to another. Can't wait to see your Garnier shots.
Dec 22nd, 2023, 03:00 AM
#35
" had dinner at Le Bistrot d’ Henri on Rue Princesse just down from our apartment."
theflock and I had dinner there a few years back. Very good. REALLY tiny!
"Les Deux Magots"
Le Bonaparte is a few feet away and wonderful. I'm there at least once on every trip, and often more often. I "found" it in 2004 and later learned it's a favorite of many Fodorites. theflock and I have met up there during April trips. Duck into the Jules Pansu shop around the corner. It's a favorite of OO's too. I buy something there on each trip. My Paris souvenirs = something new for Jules Pansu.
"BTW, I couldn’t agree more about Ile ST. Louis…I stayed nearby on my July visit to Paris . Disappointing."
danon, that was my impression too. Thanks for confirming.
Beautiful tree at LTB. I thought it was the same menu. Good to know for sure.
I love the "action shot"! Too funny!
That baking class looks great. I'd enjoy that.
I took a chocolate tour that Christmas that was really fun. Great samples!
FB reminded me that I was flying over 7 years ago today. That Christmas in Paris was just magical. I had hoped to get back this year (+ Munich's Christmas markets) but that was not to be. Next year is a definite though. Christmas in Paris... again.
Great photos! Thanks for sharing!
theflock and I had dinner there a few years back. Very good. REALLY tiny!
"Les Deux Magots"
Le Bonaparte is a few feet away and wonderful. I'm there at least once on every trip, and often more often. I "found" it in 2004 and later learned it's a favorite of many Fodorites. theflock and I have met up there during April trips. Duck into the Jules Pansu shop around the corner. It's a favorite of OO's too. I buy something there on each trip. My Paris souvenirs = something new for Jules Pansu.
"BTW, I couldn’t agree more about Ile ST. Louis…I stayed nearby on my July visit to Paris . Disappointing."
danon, that was my impression too. Thanks for confirming.
Beautiful tree at LTB. I thought it was the same menu. Good to know for sure.
I love the "action shot"! Too funny!
That baking class looks great. I'd enjoy that.
I took a chocolate tour that Christmas that was really fun. Great samples!
FB reminded me that I was flying over 7 years ago today. That Christmas in Paris was just magical. I had hoped to get back this year (+ Munich's Christmas markets) but that was not to be. Next year is a definite though. Christmas in Paris... again.
Great photos! Thanks for sharing!
Last edited by starrs; Dec 22nd, 2023 at 03:16 AM.
Dec 22nd, 2023, 11:12 AM
#36
Thanks for all the nice comments. It’s fun to share stories of our favorite places and past visits to Paris.
Day 5…We had tickets at 10:30 for Opera Garnier. We decided not to do a tour (had done that before) just see it on our own. That is one magnificent building not to be missed when in Paris. The tours do take you to sit in the main floor seats. I must say that the view of the Chagall ceiling is best from the main floor. On our own we could only view it from a balcony.
Chagall ceiling
Day 5…We had tickets at 10:30 for Opera Garnier. We decided not to do a tour (had done that before) just see it on our own. That is one magnificent building not to be missed when in Paris. The tours do take you to sit in the main floor seats. I must say that the view of the Chagall ceiling is best from the main floor. On our own we could only view it from a balcony.
Chagall ceiling
Dec 22nd, 2023, 11:38 AM
#37
After the Opera Garnier we had lunch at Paul & Julienne on Rue La Fayette. Actually had the best Croque Monsieur ever.
Others I have ordered we’re a very thin piece of bread, thin slice of ham, thin melted cheese. This one was about an inch thick with a creamy ham and cheese filling then bread on top with a crispy melt of cheese….delish. An omelette was first grade also. Salad and fries on the side went perfect with the meal.
Croque Monsieur
A very busy place but yet the service was friendly and prompt.
On we went up the street to Galeries Lafayette, We had time before the fashion show to go up on the terrace for the view.
The Christmas tree in the center of the mall was mesmerizing So many photos were taken.
Cloudy day, but no rain and somewhat warm
View from the terrace
Gorgeous
Colors change along with the music
Others I have ordered we’re a very thin piece of bread, thin slice of ham, thin melted cheese. This one was about an inch thick with a creamy ham and cheese filling then bread on top with a crispy melt of cheese….delish. An omelette was first grade also. Salad and fries on the side went perfect with the meal.
Croque Monsieur
A very busy place but yet the service was friendly and prompt.
On we went up the street to Galeries Lafayette, We had time before the fashion show to go up on the terrace for the view.
The Christmas tree in the center of the mall was mesmerizing So many photos were taken.
Cloudy day, but no rain and somewhat warm
View from the terrace
Gorgeous
Colors change along with the music
Dec 22nd, 2023, 11:54 AM
#38
Time for the fashion show. Get there a bit early as people start lining up and fist row seats are the best for photos.
This show only takes place on Friday at 3pm and you definitely need to purchase tickets ahead of time.
Loved it….loud music, amazing clothes, models strutting down the runway.
After the show some shopping. I bought am Eiffel Tower charm at Pandora for my bracelet. Hers ago I bought on that wasn’t Pandora and it didn’t wear well so I wanted a replacement.
Next up, shoes. Our daughter wanted to splurge on the latest fashion. It seems Mary Janes are it. One strap, two straps three straps in lots of heel sizes and colors.
I’ll get back soon with dinner tonight at La Jacobine.
This show only takes place on Friday at 3pm and you definitely need to purchase tickets ahead of time.
Loved it….loud music, amazing clothes, models strutting down the runway.
After the show some shopping. I bought am Eiffel Tower charm at Pandora for my bracelet. Hers ago I bought on that wasn’t Pandora and it didn’t wear well so I wanted a replacement.
Next up, shoes. Our daughter wanted to splurge on the latest fashion. It seems Mary Janes are it. One strap, two straps three straps in lots of heel sizes and colors.
I’ll get back soon with dinner tonight at La Jacobine.
Dec 22nd, 2023, 01:03 PM
#39
I might go and see the Galeries Lafayette Christmas tree after all. I saw it while it was being installed and it did not look impressive. Then I did my annual Christmas window report a week later and have not been back since then.
