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Andalucia - 9 day itinerary - help please

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Andalucia - 9 day itinerary - help please

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Old May 6th, 2024, 05:42 AM
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That's what I thought, about the flights....backtrackiing is not good.

I made a mistake when I said the Jewish Quarter was small...did not realize that it encompasses Palacio de Viana, etc. That was a wonderful visit (Palacio de Viana). I have to look at my Cordoba map and see where the boundaries are..I was imagining the Jewish quarter to be just the area around the Synagogue! And I spent five nights there! Shameful!!
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Old May 6th, 2024, 05:56 AM
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The Palacio de Viana is not within the Jewish Quarter.

The flight from Newark to SVQ, Sevilla, isn't non-stop. It makes a stop in Lisbon. There are currently no non-stops between the US and Seville.

The seasonal flight from Málaga to Newark is non-stop on United.

Last edited by Maribel; May 6th, 2024 at 06:19 AM.
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Old May 6th, 2024, 06:07 AM
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I was confused about that comment about the Jewish, but maybe I read it wrong!
Gracias, Maribel!!
Honestly, five days in Cordoba and there was so much I missed; I never even saw the Roman Bridge!

So there IS a flight to Malaga from Newark, but probably not in March..

To LdiMatte:

You maybe have seen this, but if not, there is a ton of food discussion with photos on this very long, recent trip report:
Now that I think back, the reason I missed so much of Cordoba was that I was busy eating!




Live...from spain!!! Cordoba, costa de da luz (vejer de la frontera area, madrid
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Old May 6th, 2024, 06:18 AM
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ekscrunchy,
Not in March. It's seasonal.

From my Málaga notes:
United continues this summer season with its non stop flights from Malaga to Newark. These departures will be daily, on board a Boeing 757-200 aircraft, between May 3 and September 24, 2024.

The Boeing 757-200 aircraft that operates this route has a total of 169 seats: 16 lie-flat seats in United Polaris business class and 153 in economy class, including 45 Economy Plus seats with legroom and more personal space.United is the only US carrier operating in Málaga.

Passenger numbers continue to soar at Málaga airport with almost 21 million passengers on flights so far this year.

It experienced the highest passenger traffic growth of all the major Spanish airports last month, with an increase of more than 25% and maintains top three slot in Spain’s airport with record-breaking 1,416,974 passengers in February (and my husband and I could certainly feel that in March)

This growth has allowed Málaga to consolidate its position as the third most important airport in Spain for passenger numbers - surpassing Gran Canaria once again this winter. The market for abroad connections grew by 31%.

The 3 carriers brining in the most passengers to Málaga airport: Ryanair, Vueling and Easy Jet, Ryanair being the leader.

Last edited by Maribel; May 6th, 2024 at 07:06 AM.
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Old May 6th, 2024, 07:40 AM
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Thank you all for so generously taking your time to help me with this planning! I can't tell you how much I appreciate it, as trying to see as much as possible in 9 days is overwhelming.

Originally I had us flying into Seville, but the shortest flight (10 hours) had us with a very quick layover in Munich - I don't want to start our vacation with this stress. So flying roundtrip Newark-Malaga was really my next best alternative. This is also why we're traveling in late September rather than October. As Maribel mentioned, the direct service ends on September 24. UGH!
Once my husband and I retire (just a few years now!!) we certainly plan on travelling at a more leisurely pace. I haven't even arrived yet, and I've already made a pact with a friend that we'll visit for over a month together once we're no longer working!

I think we will now spend 3 nights Seville (3 days), 2 nights Cordoba (1 1/2 days), 1 or 2 nights Granada (2 days) and 2 or 3 nights Malaga (2 days with one being El Comintio Del Rey). I know it's not nearly enough time!

I am going to book the Alhambra (both day & night tours) right away. Pre-booking the remaining sights by next week.

KarenWoo - many thanks for the wonderful hotel & restaurant suggestions. I will be booking shortly.

ekscrunchy- I am so enjoying your adventures through your trip report. Now that my itinerary is nearly set, I will go back & read for your favorites. Aah, to travel at that pace and truly enjoy. I am a bit envious, but my time will come. This trip is just to give us a small taste of Southern Spain.

Thanks to everyone! If you have additional advice / suggestions, please know that they are so appreciated!
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Old May 6th, 2024, 08:26 AM
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I do see a potential problem with your first day, arrival in Málaga and train to Sevilla if your plane is delayed, but let's hope it isn't.

Your 3 nights in Seville will actually reap 2 full days of sightseeing, a really short time, so you should plan to start early and end late, if wanting to see some of the wonderful sights that await you in Seville. I think you'll fall in love with Sevilla and want to return.

2 nights in Córdoba, given the short train ride on the AVANT from Sevilla's Santa Justa station, will give you 1 and 1/2 days for the Mezquita, other monuments/museums in the small Judería, the patios of the San Basilio quarter (that you can tour on your own), possibly the Renaissance Palacio de Viana, with its 12 interconnecting patios, which is more impressive, imo, than the San Basilio quarter patios. The tiny synagogue takes very little time to see. Make sure to venture to the illuminated Roman bridge at night for a stroll.

If you do want to do the amazing evening sound and light night tour at the Cathedral-Mosque, "The Soul of Córdoba", on your first or second night, you will need to book in advance here. It isn't given every night.

I would urge you to spend 2 nights in Granada, as there is much more to explore in the city than the Alhambra---there's the Cathedral and its adjacent Royal Chapel, various lavish Baroque churches, the evocative former Arab quarter of the Albaicín for a strenuous walking tour and its viewpoint at sunset, the Mirador de San Nicolás with those stunning full frontal views of the Alhambra at dusk. Many visitors enjoy having dinner around this square and a popular and lovely spot to do so is the Carmen de Abén Humeya, that many Fodorites have enjoyed.

I would only stay for 2 nights in Málaga, as I would focus the majority of my time on the beauties of the Al-Andalus triangle---Sevilla, Córdoba, Granada. But, that will give you just one full day, weather cooperating, for the Caminto del Rey.
How important is the Caminito del Rey to you? One must secure tickets well in advance here.

I would definitely not plan to visit Nerja or Mijas, which have become over the years, very heavily Anglo-speaking ex pat communities. (I've been to both, and when I'm there I honestly don't feel like I'm in classic Andalucía, given the foreign residents, but that´s just my personal opinion).

KarenWoo has given you her favorite hotel in Córdoba on the quieter side of the tourist-filled Judería, well located for a short visit. It you can't find availability there, consider the Balcón de Córdoba, also in the Judería, or just outside, within very easy walking distance, on Córdoba`s main commercial square, Plaza de las Tendillas, the H10 Palacio de la Colmera, where we happily stayed in late March. The NH Collection Amistad, next to the Museo Taurino is another option.

In Sevilla you may want to look at hotels in the less tourist trodden El Arenal quarter (Vincci Molviedro, Vincci La Rápida, Casas de El Arenal) or the hotels near to the Plaza de la Encarnación (H10 Casa de la Plata, Cetina) or even near Reyes Católicos (Gravina 51 ), all 3 locations easily walkable to all the major sights yet not within the high season tourist tsunami. And please book your Cathedral and your Alcázar tickets in advance to avoid standing in long lines in the heat and sun. Yes, it can still be quite hot in Sevilla in late September!

In Granada I would consider the Eurostars Puerta Real or the Eurostars Áurea Cathedral for convenience, if within budget, or slightly removed, set back, from the busy, busy Carrera del Darro, the Casa 1800 for more of a typical Andalusian feel.

In Málaga we recently stayed at the Molina Lario, which couldn't have a more central location. Ditto to the AC Málaga Palacio if you have Marriot Bonvoy points to spend (otherwise it's pricey for a room with sit out terrace with water views). And there's the Soho Boutique group with several properties and the new Only You. And the Hotel Larios or the Room Mate Valeria. All are very handily located.

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Old May 6th, 2024, 08:41 AM
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Cordoba's Palacio de Viana needs to be pre-booked because this fabulous palace is only visit-able in small guided tour (around a dozen people), tix regularly sell out. When I spontaneously dropped in in January & February this year (during my 3 month stay), both dates were sold out. I had to pre-book a tix online for another date to finally get to visit this palace.
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Old May 6th, 2024, 08:44 AM
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No, I didn't have a guided tour. One can visit the 12 ground floor patios without pre-booking, as I have twice, and I did not take a guided tour of the Palace upper rooms. I only did a self-tour of the ground floor this March. The ground floor rooms and patios can be viewed w/o a guided tour. It is true that the guided tour of the Palace upper floor can sell out. I wasn't interested in the guided tour of the upper Palace rooms.

Last edited by Maribel; May 6th, 2024 at 08:49 AM.
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Old May 6th, 2024, 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Maribel
The ground floor rooms and patios can be viewed w/o a guided tour. It is true that the guided tour of the Palace upper floor can sell out.
You are correct, visitors are free to walk around the ground floor & patios. The guided tour is only for the sumptuous & interesting rooms on the upper level, absolutely worth joining, lasts about an hour. Those lavishly-decorated upper-level rooms are unlike any palace I had ever visited in Andalucia.

Last edited by FrEsDe; May 6th, 2024 at 08:52 AM.
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Old May 6th, 2024, 08:51 AM
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Yes, I had seen them on a prior visit, so just opted for a self tour of downstairs.
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Old May 6th, 2024, 09:02 AM
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Our favorite dining in Sevilla for casual-

Azotea, 3 locations
Tradevo Centro
Disparate in the Alameda de Hércules area, very creative
Alfarería 21, Casa Montalbán, beautiful tiled line dining rooms in Triana
Taberna Zurbarán, tucked away in a lovely square near las Setas, Plaza de la Encarnación
La Barra de Cañabota, Cervecería Salmedina and La Barra de Inchausti, spectacular seafood straight from the Cádiz province piers
Casa Morales in El Arenal, an inimitable time warp in a very good way
Petit Comité in El Arenal (that both Fodorite Lrice and I love!)

For a classic "piripi" sandwich, Bodeguita Antonio Romero (3 locations in El Arenal)
For a "pringá" sandwich, Bodeguita Romero, also in El Arenal

For churros & chocolate, Bar Comercio and La Centuria, both near the Plaza de la Encarnación and las Setas.

For Córdoba there is a loooong back and forth with ekscrunchy and me about our favorites. I wouldn't miss Casa el Piso for their traditional fare and Garum 2.0 for salmorejo and updated classics.

Last edited by Maribel; May 6th, 2024 at 09:15 AM.
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Old May 6th, 2024, 11:49 AM
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For Granada,
Churros and chocolate at Cafetería Alhambra on the Plaza Bib-Rambla.

For breakfast Moorish treats, Pastelería López Mezquita at Reyes Católicos 39.

Fine wines and tapas at Taberna la Tana at Placita del Agua, a tiny square off Calle Rosario. Best wine selection in town and complimentary freshly made tapa with each drink order. Hugely popular so go early in the evening when it opens at 8:30 pm.
In the same area. la Malvasía for wines and tapas on Rosario.

Near the cathedral, Saint Germain, at Postigo Velutti 4.

Again, one of the atmospheric, very memorable restaurants for evening dining with full frontal illuminated views of the Alhambra in the Albaicín near the Mirador (viewpoint) of San Nicolás. El Trillo or Abén Humeya or Mirador de Morayma, among several.
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Old May 6th, 2024, 02:24 PM
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OOOH..Pastelieria Lopez Mesquita in Granada.....essential and great for take-on-plane pastel Moruna! (Yet about the millionth tip from Maribel that has enhanced my visits to Spain to a degree that is almost unfathomable!

I did not book ahead for Palacio Viana in March, and there were few people there. I did not take a guided tour and was not aware that there was one available.

I just booked flights to Catania via Munich....have not flown LUFTHANSA in decades......

Madrid is such an easy airport to transfer through, although it often requires lots of walking. I always get thrill when I first spy those colored arches overhead...I almost feel as if I am back where I belong!!


Malaga and then Gran Canaria???? I am shocked by this!!!
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Old May 7th, 2024, 03:04 AM
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Maribel - wow! the advice you've provided is incredible. I am overwhelmed with the support I've gotten on this forum - like having my own personal travel guide. Thank you!!

I am adding specifically the patios of the San Basilio quarter to our agenda while in Cordoba, as well as the light and sound tour. You even provided links!! I had Balcon de Cordoba and the Solo Boutique hotel in Malaga on my short list of hotel options. It's good to get affirmation that these are good choices. Again THANK YOU for taking your time to make so many suggestions for neighborhoods, hotels and restaurants. Churros and chocolate?! Yum, who knew?? Fortunately, I will have no problem getting my steps in to combat the calories!

I am going to begin making reservations later this evening after work. I am already getting excited!
Thank you, thank you!



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Old May 7th, 2024, 03:31 AM
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Hi,
I just posted this on ekscrunchy's looooong thread, if you can squeeze this in; otherwise you can see the 5 or 6 open patios in the San Basilio quarter, which sits just beyond Córdoba's Alcázar.

"For anyone Córdoba-bound who would like to see the famous patios outside of the Patio Festival going on now this May and who has the extra time, the 16th century Renaissance Palacio de Viana, with its 12 inter-connecting patios is delightful, well worth seeking out. It sits on the Plaza Don Gome in the Santa Marina quarter, outside of the historic quarter of the Judería, about a 20-minute walk.

The downstairs visit in non-guided, does not have to be reserved in advance, and entrance costs 8 euros. Along with the patios and the gardens one can view the stables and the kitchen.
The lavish upstairs palace rooms, filled with tapestries, porcelain, paintings, and with carved artesonado ceilings can be visited via a 40-minute guided tour only, in Spanish. Non-Spanish speakers receive an explanatory pamphlet in English or French. This visit sometimes does sell out, as it's capacity controlled.
The combo ticket for the downstairs patios plus upstairs guided visit costs 12 euros.
Opening hours vary from month to month. During the patio festival it is open daily and on some Mondays in March, April and May. At other times, it closes on Mondays".

https://www.palaciodeviana.com

Last edited by Maribel; May 7th, 2024 at 03:34 AM.
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Old May 7th, 2024, 10:52 AM
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Hi Maribel,
My husband is an avid gardener and is going to love this! I have added it to our 2nd day in Cordoba (a Tuesday).
How many times can I say THANK YOU!!!
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Old May 7th, 2024, 11:10 AM
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You're very welcome! I think you'll really enjoy the Palacio de Viana gardens and patios.
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Old May 8th, 2024, 05:14 AM
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Maribel, I've never been to JAYLU in Sevilla but its always been on mind.
What is your opinion, for me?
I do not that there prices per kg for shellfish are higher than those at ANTONIO but I'm thinking that that is to the the city location while ANTONIO is closer to the coast.

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Old May 8th, 2024, 05:16 AM
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Think of Jaylu as being Sevilla's equivalent of Madrid's Rafa, which I know we both love.
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Old May 8th, 2024, 07:00 AM
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In Cordoba we enjoyed dinner at Casa Pepe de La Juderia so much so at the end of dinner we made a reservation for their rooftop terrace for our last night in Cordoba. We also had a tasty dinner at Restaurante Patio de la Juderia which has a flamenco show every night though we didn't stay for it as we had prebooked tickets for the Soul of Cordoba nighttime tour of at the Mezquita.
In Seville we enjoyed Maribel's excellent recommendation of Barra Baja Restaurante. We sat at the counter and enjoyed delicious food as we watched the chefs at work. We also enjoyed dinner at La Malvaloca which is located next to Las Setas. Being a bit 'tapased out' on our last night in Spain, we both craved pasta and headed to Il Vesuvio Restaurante which is located down a quiet alley with outside tables. We shared a caprese salad which was excellent as were the pasta dishes we ordered.
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