An Afternoon in Amsterdam, an Overnight in Assisi, and a Mad Dash Through Rome: Photos with Report to Come
Jan 27th, 2009, 05:59 PM
#22
<b>Borghese Gallery</b> and the <b>Scavi tour</b> were the only things I booked from home other than hotels.
I had made reservations for the <b>Scavi tour</b> below St Peter's for the Monday after our arrival and the <b>Borghese Gallery</b> for the following Friday. For us, this was just the right amount of pre-planning. My cold/flu-d out mom was able to rally for both those and enjoyed them immensely.
I have been to the <b>Borghese</b> a few times before. Those who have visited know it is sublime. Those who haven't should go and give it a whirl, especially if you like sculpture. I got all misty-eyed while looking at Bernini's Apollo and Daphne--yes, again. I just can't believe it. I cannot.
The museum was a bit of a madhouse this trip, partly because it was raining, so no one waited outside in the park. Instead, everyone crammed into every available inch of the entry on the ground floor. Very personal. But because they limit the number of people in the gallery at any given time and time the entrances, once we were actually in I wasn't too freaked.
For those who haven't been, reservations are mandatory.
As an audioguide aficionada, I give the Borghese's ten enthusiastic thumbs up. However, for those who are actually slogging through this report, my audioguide reviews figure somewhere around the same reliability level as my amatriciana reviews. I <i>always</i> love an audioguide. Especially in Italy.
Warning: out of 4 audioguides rented, one was a dud.
I'll hit this in the highlights, but we walked up to <b>Palazzo Barberini</b> and visited the musuem there before going to the Borghese. For us this was manageable and not too museum-y. Of course, my mom did just taxi up and meet us at the Borghese. Everyone has limits.
Borghese:
http://www.galleriaborghese.it/borghese/en/edefault.htm
I had made reservations for the <b>Scavi tour</b> below St Peter's for the Monday after our arrival and the <b>Borghese Gallery</b> for the following Friday. For us, this was just the right amount of pre-planning. My cold/flu-d out mom was able to rally for both those and enjoyed them immensely.
I have been to the <b>Borghese</b> a few times before. Those who have visited know it is sublime. Those who haven't should go and give it a whirl, especially if you like sculpture. I got all misty-eyed while looking at Bernini's Apollo and Daphne--yes, again. I just can't believe it. I cannot.
The museum was a bit of a madhouse this trip, partly because it was raining, so no one waited outside in the park. Instead, everyone crammed into every available inch of the entry on the ground floor. Very personal. But because they limit the number of people in the gallery at any given time and time the entrances, once we were actually in I wasn't too freaked.
For those who haven't been, reservations are mandatory.
As an audioguide aficionada, I give the Borghese's ten enthusiastic thumbs up. However, for those who are actually slogging through this report, my audioguide reviews figure somewhere around the same reliability level as my amatriciana reviews. I <i>always</i> love an audioguide. Especially in Italy.
Warning: out of 4 audioguides rented, one was a dud.
I'll hit this in the highlights, but we walked up to <b>Palazzo Barberini</b> and visited the musuem there before going to the Borghese. For us this was manageable and not too museum-y. Of course, my mom did just taxi up and meet us at the Borghese. Everyone has limits.
Borghese:
http://www.galleriaborghese.it/borghese/en/edefault.htm
Jan 27th, 2009, 07:44 PM
#23
<b>Scavi tour</b>
I did everything as instructed-both on the Vatican website and on Fodor's
--and felt pleased to get four tickets to the excavations below Saint Peter's for the Monday after we arrived in Rome. This is something I hadn't done before and had read about eagerly. Perfect.
The whole thing made me nervous: the will-we-or-won't-we aspect to getting a reservation, the sending my CC to "the Vatican" (yeah right), the Swiss Guards, etc. And then to top it all off I read several disappointed reviews of the experience.
Not to mention my notoriously difficult to please mother. Would she be pissed at me for signing her up for something like this? And she a very, very lapsed Protestant?
<b>We arrived to the left of St. Peter's</b> square as instructed (and memorized). We were early because I was so anxious about being late. Of course no problems. Swiss Guards were almost Oscar-Wilde-languid about the whole thing, although perhaps my anxiety is coloring my perceptions. Just a little.
Our guide was a young priest from San Diego. When he heard we were from California his face lit up. He misses home. I spend the first half of the tour worrying about him, about how difficult it must be to go and live in Rome for a few years, as a priest, at the Vatican, all the while thinking longingly of taco trucks and the surf at La Jolla and Mom and Dad and the Del...
I won't explain the tour. I just want to say that in in spite of all my worries--about my mom, the priest, the "worth" and advisability of arranging all this ahead of time, I hate to commit, yadda yadda--the longer we were under ground, the more I got sucked into the whole story of the poor man's grave, locating St. Peter's bones. I really found the experience amazing. And we <i>all</i> teared up at the culmination. None of us are Catholic or even religious. It was just so fascinating, so riveting, all that man can and cannot do, will and will not do--for the love of god. I have similar hyperbolic and deeply hokey sentiments about Rome in general.
But I'll spare everyone the gory details.
I did everything as instructed-both on the Vatican website and on Fodor's
--and felt pleased to get four tickets to the excavations below Saint Peter's for the Monday after we arrived in Rome. This is something I hadn't done before and had read about eagerly. Perfect.The whole thing made me nervous: the will-we-or-won't-we aspect to getting a reservation, the sending my CC to "the Vatican" (yeah right), the Swiss Guards, etc. And then to top it all off I read several disappointed reviews of the experience.
Not to mention my notoriously difficult to please mother. Would she be pissed at me for signing her up for something like this? And she a very, very lapsed Protestant?
<b>We arrived to the left of St. Peter's</b> square as instructed (and memorized). We were early because I was so anxious about being late. Of course no problems. Swiss Guards were almost Oscar-Wilde-languid about the whole thing, although perhaps my anxiety is coloring my perceptions. Just a little.
Our guide was a young priest from San Diego. When he heard we were from California his face lit up. He misses home. I spend the first half of the tour worrying about him, about how difficult it must be to go and live in Rome for a few years, as a priest, at the Vatican, all the while thinking longingly of taco trucks and the surf at La Jolla and Mom and Dad and the Del...
I won't explain the tour. I just want to say that in in spite of all my worries--about my mom, the priest, the "worth" and advisability of arranging all this ahead of time, I hate to commit, yadda yadda--the longer we were under ground, the more I got sucked into the whole story of the poor man's grave, locating St. Peter's bones. I really found the experience amazing. And we <i>all</i> teared up at the culmination. None of us are Catholic or even religious. It was just so fascinating, so riveting, all that man can and cannot do, will and will not do--for the love of god. I have similar hyperbolic and deeply hokey sentiments about Rome in general.
But I'll spare everyone the gory details.
Jan 27th, 2009, 08:58 PM
#24
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Hi Leely,
I'm glad everyone enjoyed the Scavi Tour. I was smiling while reading your lead-up, because I was really nervous beforehand too! (almost like a soup nazi thing- I was worried I was going screw it up somehow)
It's interesting how different the various Scavi tours sound, depending on the guide. The man who the led my tour was an academic, not a priest, so the emphasis was on history and architecture rather than the story of St Peter. In fact I don't remember any discussion about St Peter at all, other than the archaelogical evidence that indicates the remains may belong to him.
I would certainly like to take the Scavi Tour again someday, it would be interesting to hear a different perspective.
I'm glad everyone enjoyed the Scavi Tour. I was smiling while reading your lead-up, because I was really nervous beforehand too! (almost like a soup nazi thing- I was worried I was going screw it up somehow)
It's interesting how different the various Scavi tours sound, depending on the guide. The man who the led my tour was an academic, not a priest, so the emphasis was on history and architecture rather than the story of St Peter. In fact I don't remember any discussion about St Peter at all, other than the archaelogical evidence that indicates the remains may belong to him.
I would certainly like to take the Scavi Tour again someday, it would be interesting to hear a different perspective.
Jan 28th, 2009, 04:55 PM
#25
Apres, all the Scavi guides I saw the day I was there were priests. Or anyway they were <i>dressed</i> as priests.
Hmm...
<b>Things we saw and did, cont'd.</b>
Our first evening was spent poking around Roma after dark, which I've done many times and hope to do again and again. I'm a big fan of illuminated fountains. We had a just-okay dinner at some trattoria on via delle Copelle above the Pantheon.
The <b>carousel in Piazza Navona</b> was a surprise. La Befana, as discussed on other threads currently, was not. For some reason I had read about the Christmas witch before, how slowly Santa Claus is creeping into the culture, etc. So I really wanted to buy a La Befana ornament or something for my little niece who is just three, but I never found one didn't think would scare her. Next year.
The following day was Sunday, designated as a no-pressure day in my antic, frantic Fodorized brain. We shopped, we lunched and we visited churches. Many, many churches.
My church highlights this trip:
<b>Santa Maria del Popolo</b> -- Wow, I loved it. I had somehow never made it to this one before but had always wanted to see the Caravaggios. I think my mind hadn't imagined the rest of the church, somehow not taking in the Pinturicchio frescoes which I (a fresco-lover) found magnificent. The Chigi chapel was closed for restoration or something, unfortunately.
This church was extra-extra-great because we tromped, lost, wet, muddy and sort of cold, through the <b>Borghese Gardens</b> in the dark, in the rain, to reach it. We did happen upon some interesting (in many sense of the word) parts of the Gardens during this walk. Throughout this journey we kept remarking to each other, "Thank God we sent your mother home in a taxi!" Later, when we told her where we had been and she saw the state of us, she said the same.
We had a map--or two--but they didn't seem to be working.
For our troubles we were rewarded with a spectacular view of a wet, glistening, illuminated Rome from the <b>Pinicio hill and gardens</b>.
Down the many stairs to an energized, holiday-atmosphere <b>Piazza del Popolo: </b> Rome in full throttle.
Hmm...
<b>Things we saw and did, cont'd.</b>
Our first evening was spent poking around Roma after dark, which I've done many times and hope to do again and again. I'm a big fan of illuminated fountains. We had a just-okay dinner at some trattoria on via delle Copelle above the Pantheon.
The <b>carousel in Piazza Navona</b> was a surprise. La Befana, as discussed on other threads currently, was not. For some reason I had read about the Christmas witch before, how slowly Santa Claus is creeping into the culture, etc. So I really wanted to buy a La Befana ornament or something for my little niece who is just three, but I never found one didn't think would scare her. Next year.
The following day was Sunday, designated as a no-pressure day in my antic, frantic Fodorized brain. We shopped, we lunched and we visited churches. Many, many churches.
My church highlights this trip:
<b>Santa Maria del Popolo</b> -- Wow, I loved it. I had somehow never made it to this one before but had always wanted to see the Caravaggios. I think my mind hadn't imagined the rest of the church, somehow not taking in the Pinturicchio frescoes which I (a fresco-lover) found magnificent. The Chigi chapel was closed for restoration or something, unfortunately.
This church was extra-extra-great because we tromped, lost, wet, muddy and sort of cold, through the <b>Borghese Gardens</b> in the dark, in the rain, to reach it. We did happen upon some interesting (in many sense of the word) parts of the Gardens during this walk. Throughout this journey we kept remarking to each other, "Thank God we sent your mother home in a taxi!" Later, when we told her where we had been and she saw the state of us, she said the same.
We had a map--or two--but they didn't seem to be working.
For our troubles we were rewarded with a spectacular view of a wet, glistening, illuminated Rome from the <b>Pinicio hill and gardens</b>.
Down the many stairs to an energized, holiday-atmosphere <b>Piazza del Popolo: </b> Rome in full throttle.
Jan 28th, 2009, 07:27 PM
#26
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La Befana is scary looking! I know now she's supposed to be smiling in a friendly sort of way, but to me the expression on her face is like the witch from Hansel and Gretel- like she's about to eat you!
I was so sorry I missed Santa Maria del Popolo. Can't wait to hear about the Piazza del Popolo- is that where they have the huge nativity displays?
I was so sorry I missed Santa Maria del Popolo. Can't wait to hear about the Piazza del Popolo- is that where they have the huge nativity displays?
Feb 3rd, 2009, 07:09 AM
#27
I think there was a big nativity display in <b>Piazza del Popolo</b> but we didn't walk over; and the mother of all nativity displays we saw was the one in front of the Basilica of St. Francis in Assisi--verything else pales in comparison, although we saw many beautiful/interesting/unusual creches.
After viewing <b>Santa Maria del Popolo,</b> we wandeed down via di Ripetta on the way home. Stopped at <b>Enoteca Buccone</b> and picked up a few bottles of wine for the apartment. Saw the <b>Ara Pacis</b> -- again only from the outside, so another reason to return.
<b>Other churches: </b>
<b>San Pietro in Vincoli</b>
This was crowded--many people there to see Michelangelo's Moses and the chains. After <i>not seeing</i> this church a number of times, I was glad to finally arrive when it was open with no mass in session.
<b>San Clemente</b>
Great! Go. 12th century mosaics, 11th century frescoes, catacombs, a Temple of Mithras and more. Well worth a stop.
We visited San Clemente at the end of a long day of walking and sightseeing, after going to San Pietro in Vincoli and still managed to stay for nearly two hours. But I'm a glutton for churches.
After viewing <b>Santa Maria del Popolo,</b> we wandeed down via di Ripetta on the way home. Stopped at <b>Enoteca Buccone</b> and picked up a few bottles of wine for the apartment. Saw the <b>Ara Pacis</b> -- again only from the outside, so another reason to return.
<b>Other churches: </b>
<b>San Pietro in Vincoli</b>
This was crowded--many people there to see Michelangelo's Moses and the chains. After <i>not seeing</i> this church a number of times, I was glad to finally arrive when it was open with no mass in session.
<b>San Clemente</b>
Great! Go. 12th century mosaics, 11th century frescoes, catacombs, a Temple of Mithras and more. Well worth a stop.
We visited San Clemente at the end of a long day of walking and sightseeing, after going to San Pietro in Vincoli and still managed to stay for nearly two hours. But I'm a glutton for churches.
Feb 3rd, 2009, 06:56 PM
#29
<b>Sights, sites and sits, cont'd. </b>
Because this was not my first--or my second or my third--trip to Rome, I tried to balance revisiting places I have been that my traveling companions had not with new sights. I'll admit this report, such as it is, focuses on those things new to me. For that reason, it may be less helpful for the first-time visitor.
Although I stand by my restaurant reviews...
I really enjoyed <b>Palazzo Barberini,</b> where everyone lies down on the benches to look at the ceiling frescoes. They also have some pretty nice paintings on the walls. Caravaggio's Giuditta che taglia la testa a Oloferne is rather heady...
For convenience we had a quick lunch in the tea room on the first floor. Nothing special, but easy and relaxing--once the wine was flowing.
http://www.galleriaborghese.it/barberini/it/default.htm
Also new to me was <b>Galleria Doria Pamphilj</b>. We went on our way to Palazzo Venezia and never made it into the museum at Venezia. Of course I got the audioguide. Excellent per usual.
http://www.doriapamphilj.it/home.asp
<b>MORE CHURCHES</b>
For the dedicated, we rounded out our <b>church visiting</b> with the following.*
<b>GESU</b>, on Piazza del Gesu, the first Jesuit church built in Rome, ultra Baroque and really quite fantastic. Enjoy the ceiling; you can see it better via the mirror they've kindly set up.
<b>Santa Maria Sopra Minerva,</b> pretty and the elephant in the piazza is not to be missed. This is easily combined with a visit to the <b>PANTHEON,</b> which has alot to offer (understatement--still takes my breath away afer all these visits and all those people trundling through)
For not any real reason other than that it was there, <b>something della Pigna</b> right near sopra Minerva, next to the <b>cortile della Pigna.</b>
Another day, on the way to the Campidoglio and the Jewish Ghetto, <b>Santa Maria di Campitelli.</b>
<b>San Giralamo della Carita</b> on via di Monserrato, street of Pierluigi where we wanted to eat and/or maybe rent an apartment (http://www.rentalinrome.com/monserrato/monserrato.htm ) .
<b>SANTA MARIA DELLA PACE</b> next door to our apartment and home to the <b>Bramante chiostro. </b> There is also a museum. Despite my best intentions, I never made it inside. My mother did. Her review: "Nice but very small. Uncrowded." They were having a material culture exhibit about the life of Caesar when she went.
Also, the <b>cafe</b> there has <b>free wireless.</b> You don't have to pay for admission to the museum to go to the cafe. I wish I had known that the first few days of my trip.
<b>Santa Maria della Anima</b> Also right near our apartment, so why not?
<b>SAN SALVATORE IN LAURO </b> which we enjoyed, especially because the museum attached (to the left of the church) was having an exhibit with painting from the Hermitage about the Grand Tour--primarily scenes of Italy imagined by the rest of Europe.
*N.b. This list is non-comprehensive because we basically just poked into any church that looked interesting, had a nice creche, etc. As long as a sevice wasn't in progress, in we went. I know I'm forgetting some, but in Rome...well, there are certainly many churches.
Because this was not my first--or my second or my third--trip to Rome, I tried to balance revisiting places I have been that my traveling companions had not with new sights. I'll admit this report, such as it is, focuses on those things new to me. For that reason, it may be less helpful for the first-time visitor.
Although I stand by my restaurant reviews...
I really enjoyed <b>Palazzo Barberini,</b> where everyone lies down on the benches to look at the ceiling frescoes. They also have some pretty nice paintings on the walls. Caravaggio's Giuditta che taglia la testa a Oloferne is rather heady...
For convenience we had a quick lunch in the tea room on the first floor. Nothing special, but easy and relaxing--once the wine was flowing.
http://www.galleriaborghese.it/barberini/it/default.htm
Also new to me was <b>Galleria Doria Pamphilj</b>. We went on our way to Palazzo Venezia and never made it into the museum at Venezia. Of course I got the audioguide. Excellent per usual.
http://www.doriapamphilj.it/home.asp
<b>MORE CHURCHES</b>
For the dedicated, we rounded out our <b>church visiting</b> with the following.*
<b>GESU</b>, on Piazza del Gesu, the first Jesuit church built in Rome, ultra Baroque and really quite fantastic. Enjoy the ceiling; you can see it better via the mirror they've kindly set up.
<b>Santa Maria Sopra Minerva,</b> pretty and the elephant in the piazza is not to be missed. This is easily combined with a visit to the <b>PANTHEON,</b> which has alot to offer (understatement--still takes my breath away afer all these visits and all those people trundling through)
For not any real reason other than that it was there, <b>something della Pigna</b> right near sopra Minerva, next to the <b>cortile della Pigna.</b>
Another day, on the way to the Campidoglio and the Jewish Ghetto, <b>Santa Maria di Campitelli.</b>
<b>San Giralamo della Carita</b> on via di Monserrato, street of Pierluigi where we wanted to eat and/or maybe rent an apartment (http://www.rentalinrome.com/monserrato/monserrato.htm ) .
<b>SANTA MARIA DELLA PACE</b> next door to our apartment and home to the <b>Bramante chiostro. </b> There is also a museum. Despite my best intentions, I never made it inside. My mother did. Her review: "Nice but very small. Uncrowded." They were having a material culture exhibit about the life of Caesar when she went.
Also, the <b>cafe</b> there has <b>free wireless.</b> You don't have to pay for admission to the museum to go to the cafe. I wish I had known that the first few days of my trip.
<b>Santa Maria della Anima</b> Also right near our apartment, so why not?
<b>SAN SALVATORE IN LAURO </b> which we enjoyed, especially because the museum attached (to the left of the church) was having an exhibit with painting from the Hermitage about the Grand Tour--primarily scenes of Italy imagined by the rest of Europe.
*N.b. This list is non-comprehensive because we basically just poked into any church that looked interesting, had a nice creche, etc. As long as a sevice wasn't in progress, in we went. I know I'm forgetting some, but in Rome...well, there are certainly many churches.
Feb 5th, 2009, 11:41 AM
#31
<b>Some family drama</b>
Well, I've been skirting around this because it was the source of happiness and disappointment.
My mom had been to Venice, Rome and Florence before. She had never been to a hill town. So my friend K, her mom J and I thought it would be nice to do an overnight during our trip, especially because my mom, for whatever reasons, had been saying "This will probably be my last trip to Europe."
[If you think I got all involved in trying to make this the "perfect" trip for Mom, well, you're right on.]
I had asked my mother if she would prefer Orvieto or Assisi, and she chose Assisi.
December 31, my birthday and the morning we were to leave for Assisi, Mom, who was on Day 2 of pink-eye and Day 3 of bad cold/virus, told me she wasn't going to go. She said, quite reasonably, "If I were to go, I'd just take the train, get tired, spend most of the time in the hotel, train back and still be tired. I would rather rest here and possibly feel better for the last few days of our time in Rome."
This made perfect sense but I still got a little teary-eyed and whimpery as I said, "But I wanted you to see a <i>hill town</i> ..." Then I said I wasn't going to go. K said she wasn't going to go. J looked perplexed. Mom was too exhausted to engage but did say, "Go. I'm fine. I'll be fine."
Mom spent New Year's Eve on the terrace and I was so glad I had found an apartment with a terrace.
Well, I've been skirting around this because it was the source of happiness and disappointment.
My mom had been to Venice, Rome and Florence before. She had never been to a hill town. So my friend K, her mom J and I thought it would be nice to do an overnight during our trip, especially because my mom, for whatever reasons, had been saying "This will probably be my last trip to Europe."
[If you think I got all involved in trying to make this the "perfect" trip for Mom, well, you're right on.]
I had asked my mother if she would prefer Orvieto or Assisi, and she chose Assisi.
December 31, my birthday and the morning we were to leave for Assisi, Mom, who was on Day 2 of pink-eye and Day 3 of bad cold/virus, told me she wasn't going to go. She said, quite reasonably, "If I were to go, I'd just take the train, get tired, spend most of the time in the hotel, train back and still be tired. I would rather rest here and possibly feel better for the last few days of our time in Rome."
This made perfect sense but I still got a little teary-eyed and whimpery as I said, "But I wanted you to see a <i>hill town</i> ..." Then I said I wasn't going to go. K said she wasn't going to go. J looked perplexed. Mom was too exhausted to engage but did say, "Go. I'm fine. I'll be fine."
Mom spent New Year's Eve on the terrace and I was so glad I had found an apartment with a terrace.
Feb 5th, 2009, 11:53 AM
#32
<b>Assisi</b>
As mentioned above, I had checked the <b>trenitalia.it</b> site for the schedule and then we just popped into a travel agency while in Rome to get the tickets, no big deal. I think it was around 72 Euros for four r/t 2nd class tix, Termini-Assisi.
We took a taxi from the apartment to the train station. There is a<b> taxi stand at the end of via dei Coronari, </b> where it hits Zanardelli, and we made use of it quite a bit during our stay in Rome.
The train takes just under two hours and several run each day. The train station is in the lower town of Assisi. This was my second visit and both times I walked out of the train station and directly into a cab. I cannot remember how much this cost--12E or thereabouts?
We stayed at <b>Il Palazzo</b>, mentioned and reviewed above.
After checking in, we hurried down to the <b>Basilica di San Francesco.</b> Even though we had all been previously, we still spent nearly two hours in the church, mostly looking at the fresco cycle in the Upper Church.
Much to my dismay, I was unable to get an audioguide (where do you get them in the church? it's so dark I couldn't tell). However, there are a number of those dial-up info phones that cost a couple of Euros and of course I used them and loved them. Clipped British accents talking about frescoes--what is not to love?
Assisi was booming Dec. 31, by the way--people everywhere, mostly Italians it seemed. There was going to be a concert in the church, but we were just jammed for time and--horror of horrors--had failed to make a dinner reservation. In Assisi. On New Year's Eve.
As mentioned above, I had checked the <b>trenitalia.it</b> site for the schedule and then we just popped into a travel agency while in Rome to get the tickets, no big deal. I think it was around 72 Euros for four r/t 2nd class tix, Termini-Assisi.
We took a taxi from the apartment to the train station. There is a<b> taxi stand at the end of via dei Coronari, </b> where it hits Zanardelli, and we made use of it quite a bit during our stay in Rome.
The train takes just under two hours and several run each day. The train station is in the lower town of Assisi. This was my second visit and both times I walked out of the train station and directly into a cab. I cannot remember how much this cost--12E or thereabouts?
We stayed at <b>Il Palazzo</b>, mentioned and reviewed above.
After checking in, we hurried down to the <b>Basilica di San Francesco.</b> Even though we had all been previously, we still spent nearly two hours in the church, mostly looking at the fresco cycle in the Upper Church.
Much to my dismay, I was unable to get an audioguide (where do you get them in the church? it's so dark I couldn't tell). However, there are a number of those dial-up info phones that cost a couple of Euros and of course I used them and loved them. Clipped British accents talking about frescoes--what is not to love?
Assisi was booming Dec. 31, by the way--people everywhere, mostly Italians it seemed. There was going to be a concert in the church, but we were just jammed for time and--horror of horrors--had failed to make a dinner reservation. In Assisi. On New Year's Eve.
Feb 5th, 2009, 02:26 PM
#33
<b>Assisi, cont'd.</b>
The town itself is beautiful. Just walking around is a joy, and even though there were so many people, once we got off the main roads, we were frequently entirely alone with all those stunning views. We were also fortunate enough to catch a spectacular sunset as we left the Basilica.
<b>The Mother of All Nativity Scenes</b>
While there were many, many, many creches in Assisi--and in Rome for that matter--for my money the life-size one in front of the Basilica di San Francesco was the most amazing. First off, it was huge. And secondly, it was pretty scary looking. The beasts all looked good, but some of the human figures appeared...well, disfigured. Anyway, it was a sight to see, especially as the sun sank down in the valley.
http://www.pbase.com/leelygoes/image/107924456
http://www.pbase.com/leelygoes/image/108098684
[The second shot doesn't even capture one-third of the scene. I would have needed a wide-angle lens.]
That evening we searched madly to find a place that would seat us for dinner. Everything was booked, of course. We finally got space at a pizza joint, <b>La Lanterna;</b> they said we could eat if we came right at 7 or 7:30. Of course we said yes.
At La Lanterna they were obviously turning tables more frequently than they usually do, but we managed to to enjoy our dinner. For a pizza place, it was good. I am a huge fan of Umbrian food. We all three stuck with the basics here and were not disappointed. Complimentary prosecco to start, lentils and sausage for good luck in the New Year. Then I had penne arrabiata (terrific) followed by stewed/braised cinghiale--excellent! My friends liked their meals too. We had been preparing ourselves for something really awful, so were pleasantly surprised.
The town itself is beautiful. Just walking around is a joy, and even though there were so many people, once we got off the main roads, we were frequently entirely alone with all those stunning views. We were also fortunate enough to catch a spectacular sunset as we left the Basilica.
<b>The Mother of All Nativity Scenes</b>
While there were many, many, many creches in Assisi--and in Rome for that matter--for my money the life-size one in front of the Basilica di San Francesco was the most amazing. First off, it was huge. And secondly, it was pretty scary looking. The beasts all looked good, but some of the human figures appeared...well, disfigured. Anyway, it was a sight to see, especially as the sun sank down in the valley.
http://www.pbase.com/leelygoes/image/107924456
http://www.pbase.com/leelygoes/image/108098684
[The second shot doesn't even capture one-third of the scene. I would have needed a wide-angle lens.]
That evening we searched madly to find a place that would seat us for dinner. Everything was booked, of course. We finally got space at a pizza joint, <b>La Lanterna;</b> they said we could eat if we came right at 7 or 7:30. Of course we said yes.
At La Lanterna they were obviously turning tables more frequently than they usually do, but we managed to to enjoy our dinner. For a pizza place, it was good. I am a huge fan of Umbrian food. We all three stuck with the basics here and were not disappointed. Complimentary prosecco to start, lentils and sausage for good luck in the New Year. Then I had penne arrabiata (terrific) followed by stewed/braised cinghiale--excellent! My friends liked their meals too. We had been preparing ourselves for something really awful, so were pleasantly surprised.
Feb 5th, 2009, 02:50 PM
#34
<b>Assisi - NYE Concert in the Piazza del Comune</b>
To clarify, I don't think anyone should rush to eat at the pizza place I mention in the above post. There is much better food to be had in Assisi (we wanted to dine at La Fortezza or Medio Evo or even La Pallotta but no dice). Still we were satisfied. I didn't pay the bill, but I think this was around 100 Euros for three and we had a couple of bottles of wine too.
Then we wandered, took photos, bought some more wine, put on warmer clothes and headed to the piazza for the big concert.
What can I say. It was an experience. But fun. You have to be in the mood for that kind of thing: bad live music in beautiful surroundings with a bunch of strangers in a touristy hill town, the sky filled with stars, pictures of saints (I <i>guess</i> ) projected onto the walls of the buildings.
Weird. That was my birthday!
To clarify, I don't think anyone should rush to eat at the pizza place I mention in the above post. There is much better food to be had in Assisi (we wanted to dine at La Fortezza or Medio Evo or even La Pallotta but no dice). Still we were satisfied. I didn't pay the bill, but I think this was around 100 Euros for three and we had a couple of bottles of wine too.
Then we wandered, took photos, bought some more wine, put on warmer clothes and headed to the piazza for the big concert.
What can I say. It was an experience. But fun. You have to be in the mood for that kind of thing: bad live music in beautiful surroundings with a bunch of strangers in a touristy hill town, the sky filled with stars, pictures of saints (I <i>guess</i> ) projected onto the walls of the buildings.
Weird. That was my birthday!
Feb 7th, 2009, 09:21 AM
#35
<b>Ciao, Assisi</b>
The next morning I took a long walk around Assisi while my friends slept in. It was misty and quiet. I came across a tiny church up, up top of town with an equally tiny piazza in front of it. As I enjoyed the view, the New Year's mass was going on in the church; I could hear the murmurings of those inside mingled with the cries of birds as I viewed the Basilica below me and the Umbrian valley rolled out before me. I didn't want to return to Rome.
Nonetheless, we had the hotel call a taxi and down we careened toward the train station.
Our taxi driver lived (lives) in the upper town and absolutely loves Assisi. If I need a guide in or around Assisi in the future, I would definitely book him. He gave us quite a bit of historical background. And he also let us know the reason the upper town had not had a big fireworks show the evening before. "Assisi is the town of St. Francis. It's the town of peace. Because of the war right now [Israel and Gaza], the town voted not to have fireworks."
He asked which train we were taking and decided we had enough time to see <b>SANTA MARIA DEGLI ANGELI,</b> which is near the train station and where St. Francis died. We agreed. I had wanted to visit this church the last time I was in Umbria.
This was another highlight for me. First of all, it was great to see the lower town, buzzing with people getting ready to attend the New Year's day mass. The church itself is huge, build above and around the miniscule Porziuncola which St. Francis himself restored. It's a bizarre combo which fascinated--and yes, touched--us.
Giovanni Corridoni was our driver. His English is great. I highly recommend him. His email is corridonigiovanni AT hotmail.it
I entertained a brief fantasy where I sent my mom back on the train and hired Giovanni to tour her around so she wouldn't get tired or feel uncomfortable.
This was not to be and we arrived back in Rome to find Mom feeling much better, conjunctivitis almost gone and ready to get out and about.
The next morning I took a long walk around Assisi while my friends slept in. It was misty and quiet. I came across a tiny church up, up top of town with an equally tiny piazza in front of it. As I enjoyed the view, the New Year's mass was going on in the church; I could hear the murmurings of those inside mingled with the cries of birds as I viewed the Basilica below me and the Umbrian valley rolled out before me. I didn't want to return to Rome.
Nonetheless, we had the hotel call a taxi and down we careened toward the train station.
Our taxi driver lived (lives) in the upper town and absolutely loves Assisi. If I need a guide in or around Assisi in the future, I would definitely book him. He gave us quite a bit of historical background. And he also let us know the reason the upper town had not had a big fireworks show the evening before. "Assisi is the town of St. Francis. It's the town of peace. Because of the war right now [Israel and Gaza], the town voted not to have fireworks."
He asked which train we were taking and decided we had enough time to see <b>SANTA MARIA DEGLI ANGELI,</b> which is near the train station and where St. Francis died. We agreed. I had wanted to visit this church the last time I was in Umbria.
This was another highlight for me. First of all, it was great to see the lower town, buzzing with people getting ready to attend the New Year's day mass. The church itself is huge, build above and around the miniscule Porziuncola which St. Francis himself restored. It's a bizarre combo which fascinated--and yes, touched--us.
Giovanni Corridoni was our driver. His English is great. I highly recommend him. His email is corridonigiovanni AT hotmail.it
I entertained a brief fantasy where I sent my mom back on the train and hired Giovanni to tour her around so she wouldn't get tired or feel uncomfortable.
This was not to be and we arrived back in Rome to find Mom feeling much better, conjunctivitis almost gone and ready to get out and about.
Feb 7th, 2009, 09:41 AM
#36
<b>Correction</b>
Looks like Giovani also has an email account @gmail.com, so I would probably try both to contact him.
<b>For those who want food info</b>
I recently came across this blog post. The writer had <i>almost</i> the same tasting menu at Antico Arco as we had. He has photos and far more knowledgeable descriptions, although some of our courses were different.
http://epicures.wordpress.com/2009/0...ico-arco-rome/
Looks like Giovani also has an email account @gmail.com, so I would probably try both to contact him.
<b>For those who want food info</b>
I recently came across this blog post. The writer had <i>almost</i> the same tasting menu at Antico Arco as we had. He has photos and far more knowledgeable descriptions, although some of our courses were different.
http://epicures.wordpress.com/2009/0...ico-arco-rome/
Feb 7th, 2009, 09:52 AM
#37
<b>Mad dashing through Rome</b>
We arrived back in Rome in the early afternoon on New Year's day. The remainder of our time there was a frantic gulp--how to squeeze everything in? Only a few days left in this city with so much to see.
As this report, such as it is, hasn't been in chronological order, I'll just a few other highlights.
<b>Castel Sant Angelo</b>
I had been before but no one else had, so we went. If you've been, you know the audioguide can lead you to rooms that are closed. It's quite a puzzle. Might as well enjoy it.
The <b>book store</b> here where you get the <b>audioguide--walk down away from the entrance once inside</b> is a good place to pick up gifts for kids. We did our souvenir shopping here. I bought some coloring books for my niece.
<b>Campidoglio</b>
Mom hadn't been there yet, so we hoofed it over via <b>Campo dei Fiori</b> and the <b>Jewish Ghetto</b>. Of course we had to include poking around <b>Teatro Marcello</b> and the <b>Portico di Ottavia.</b>
Another mad dash day involved <b>Piazza Montecitorio, Piazza Colonna, Trevi and the Spanish Steps.</b>
One rainy evening concluded with extremely expensive drinks and snacks in one of the restos facing the Pantheon. My mom has to do something like that on each trip. For her it's worth it to sit and take it all in. Luckily she treated! And it was lovely.
I tried to include as many fountains, obelisks, churches and other items of interest on every walk we took. Not always appreciated when it was raining.
Because it was the holiday season and because it's Rome, there were quite a few special events going on. When possible, we took advantage.
There was a very small <b>photo exhibit in Trastevere</b> about the Italian-American immigrant experience, focusing on Ellis Island. As I've been to the Ellis Island museum, this was interesting to me.
<b>via Giulia</b> is celebrating its 500 hundredth birthday. I believe this was one of the reasons the churches there had not only special creches but other contemporary artistic displays in them. Of course my Italian is not good enough to tell you for certain.
http://www.viagiulia500.net/
<b>Next up: final thoughts, last bites and some receipts that I've found</b>
We arrived back in Rome in the early afternoon on New Year's day. The remainder of our time there was a frantic gulp--how to squeeze everything in? Only a few days left in this city with so much to see.
As this report, such as it is, hasn't been in chronological order, I'll just a few other highlights.
<b>Castel Sant Angelo</b>
I had been before but no one else had, so we went. If you've been, you know the audioguide can lead you to rooms that are closed. It's quite a puzzle. Might as well enjoy it.
The <b>book store</b> here where you get the <b>audioguide--walk down away from the entrance once inside</b> is a good place to pick up gifts for kids. We did our souvenir shopping here. I bought some coloring books for my niece.
<b>Campidoglio</b>
Mom hadn't been there yet, so we hoofed it over via <b>Campo dei Fiori</b> and the <b>Jewish Ghetto</b>. Of course we had to include poking around <b>Teatro Marcello</b> and the <b>Portico di Ottavia.</b>
Another mad dash day involved <b>Piazza Montecitorio, Piazza Colonna, Trevi and the Spanish Steps.</b>
One rainy evening concluded with extremely expensive drinks and snacks in one of the restos facing the Pantheon. My mom has to do something like that on each trip. For her it's worth it to sit and take it all in. Luckily she treated! And it was lovely.
I tried to include as many fountains, obelisks, churches and other items of interest on every walk we took. Not always appreciated when it was raining.
Because it was the holiday season and because it's Rome, there were quite a few special events going on. When possible, we took advantage.
There was a very small <b>photo exhibit in Trastevere</b> about the Italian-American immigrant experience, focusing on Ellis Island. As I've been to the Ellis Island museum, this was interesting to me.
<b>via Giulia</b> is celebrating its 500 hundredth birthday. I believe this was one of the reasons the churches there had not only special creches but other contemporary artistic displays in them. Of course my Italian is not good enough to tell you for certain.
http://www.viagiulia500.net/
<b>Next up: final thoughts, last bites and some receipts that I've found</b>
Feb 7th, 2009, 10:33 AM
#38
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Hi Leely, I just finished catching up with the rest of your trip report. I loved hearing about Assisi and I've got so many more ideas for the next trip to Rome.
The nativity figures in Assisi look like they've spent too much time under the knife with Jacko's plastic surgeon!
The nativity figures in Assisi look like they've spent too much time under the knife with Jacko's plastic surgeon!
Feb 7th, 2009, 11:02 AM
#39
Apres,
Your report has me wanting to return to Rome pronto! There are so many things I still haven't seen. And I really love Rome. I hope I can get back there soon. I have to admit that it's been difficult to finish this report while I'm simultaneously trying to get psyched for my Paris trip.
Not that I'm complaining.
The thing about those nativity scene people in Assisi is that I had a facial the weekend before we left with a new facialist. She gave me a lactic acid peel and *completely* burned the left side of my face. So I sort looked like those disfigured nativity figures while I was on this trip.
Your report has me wanting to return to Rome pronto! There are so many things I still haven't seen. And I really love Rome. I hope I can get back there soon. I have to admit that it's been difficult to finish this report while I'm simultaneously trying to get psyched for my Paris trip.
Not that I'm complaining.
The thing about those nativity scene people in Assisi is that I had a facial the weekend before we left with a new facialist. She gave me a lactic acid peel and *completely* burned the left side of my face. So I sort looked like those disfigured nativity figures while I was on this trip.
Feb 16th, 2009, 12:42 PM
#40
I am going to finish this report come hell or high water--hope all this info, rambling though it is, can help someone some day.
<b>Arrivederci, Roma</b>
<b>Retrospective faves</b>
I polled my traveling companions last week and these were the favorites:
<b>Mom: Scavi tour </b>
She answered without hesitation.
<b>J: Scavi tour</b>
<b>K:</b> Tie between <b>Scavi and San Clemente,</b> said she just loved the itineraries both those days (you are welcome, K)
<b>Me: Wandering lost in the rain in the Borghese Gardens</b> after visiting the Galleria, down through <b>Pincio hill</b> to the belvedere and steps to Piazza del Popolo and <b>Santa Maria in Piazza del Popolo.</b> This felt like a real adventure and the payoff was the view of a glistening Rome.
So I suppose the takeaway here is my group likes going underground. Next time Catacombs!
<b>Other tops</b>
Our apartment, especially <b>Michael from Rental in Rome</b> who dutifully answered my many, many questions. And because I’d read here that Rental in Rome had let down one or two posters in the past, I made a point to check in with Michael a few times in advance of our trip, making sure our apartment was still booked for us, would be ready, etc. They don’t own the apartments they rent and are just booking agents for many, so I did lots of double- and triple-checks.
<b>Charlotte of La Casa Roma,</b> who met us in lieu of the owners at our apartment for check-in and check-out, was a delight. She is a German expat living in Rome, speaks excellent English and runs her own tourism/apartment business as well. My mom kept running into her during the week on walks and we all liked her a lot.
lacasaroma.com
<b>Risotto with white truffles at Antico Arco</b>
This turned out to be very pricey primi that the two people least likely to be extravagant ordered (my mom and the other mom) on our second dinner at this restaurant. Got the bill: 41 Euros each for the their first courses. But so, so delicious and lots of truffles. My mother couldn’t finish hers so I did—thankfully.
Probably the staff at Antico Arco should have told us how much this was as it was a special, but we were all so glad they didn’t because the moms probably would not have ordered it otherwise. As we had dined big-time at the restaurant earlier in the week, I think they were under the false impression that we were huge spenders who wouldn’t bat an eyelash at a $60 first course. Ah well, a minor quibble; it was totally worth it.
<b>Carciofi alla romana at Checchino dal 1887</b>
I will return for sure. Everything here was good, but I am an artichoke lover.
<b>Enoteca Buccone </b>
19/20 via di Ripetta
We found some Umbrian wines here we really liked. Convenient location, great selection, nice and helpful staff.
http://www.enotecabuccone.com/
<b>Confetteria Moriondo e Gariglio</b>
21 to 22, Via del Pie' di Marmo
When my mom was sick and pretty much bedridden for a day and a half, we stopped here to get her some chocolates to cheer her up because she is a chocoholic. Luckily she didn’t feel well enough to eat them all and shared with us.
The shop is very old-fashioned and the women who run it gracious, pleasant and serious about their chocolates. Stepping into the shop is a bit like stepping back in time. Candy time.
We stopped by again a few days later. This place is not cheap. But not really speaking Italian combined with ordering chocolates you’re unfamiliar with yields some tasty joy.
<b>Arrivederci, Roma</b>
<b>Retrospective faves</b>
I polled my traveling companions last week and these were the favorites:
<b>Mom: Scavi tour </b>
She answered without hesitation.
<b>J: Scavi tour</b>
<b>K:</b> Tie between <b>Scavi and San Clemente,</b> said she just loved the itineraries both those days (you are welcome, K)
<b>Me: Wandering lost in the rain in the Borghese Gardens</b> after visiting the Galleria, down through <b>Pincio hill</b> to the belvedere and steps to Piazza del Popolo and <b>Santa Maria in Piazza del Popolo.</b> This felt like a real adventure and the payoff was the view of a glistening Rome.
So I suppose the takeaway here is my group likes going underground. Next time Catacombs!
<b>Other tops</b>
Our apartment, especially <b>Michael from Rental in Rome</b> who dutifully answered my many, many questions. And because I’d read here that Rental in Rome had let down one or two posters in the past, I made a point to check in with Michael a few times in advance of our trip, making sure our apartment was still booked for us, would be ready, etc. They don’t own the apartments they rent and are just booking agents for many, so I did lots of double- and triple-checks.
<b>Charlotte of La Casa Roma,</b> who met us in lieu of the owners at our apartment for check-in and check-out, was a delight. She is a German expat living in Rome, speaks excellent English and runs her own tourism/apartment business as well. My mom kept running into her during the week on walks and we all liked her a lot.
lacasaroma.com
<b>Risotto with white truffles at Antico Arco</b>
This turned out to be very pricey primi that the two people least likely to be extravagant ordered (my mom and the other mom) on our second dinner at this restaurant. Got the bill: 41 Euros each for the their first courses. But so, so delicious and lots of truffles. My mother couldn’t finish hers so I did—thankfully.
Probably the staff at Antico Arco should have told us how much this was as it was a special, but we were all so glad they didn’t because the moms probably would not have ordered it otherwise. As we had dined big-time at the restaurant earlier in the week, I think they were under the false impression that we were huge spenders who wouldn’t bat an eyelash at a $60 first course. Ah well, a minor quibble; it was totally worth it.
<b>Carciofi alla romana at Checchino dal 1887</b>
I will return for sure. Everything here was good, but I am an artichoke lover.
<b>Enoteca Buccone </b>
19/20 via di Ripetta
We found some Umbrian wines here we really liked. Convenient location, great selection, nice and helpful staff.
http://www.enotecabuccone.com/
<b>Confetteria Moriondo e Gariglio</b>
21 to 22, Via del Pie' di Marmo
When my mom was sick and pretty much bedridden for a day and a half, we stopped here to get her some chocolates to cheer her up because she is a chocoholic. Luckily she didn’t feel well enough to eat them all and shared with us.
The shop is very old-fashioned and the women who run it gracious, pleasant and serious about their chocolates. Stepping into the shop is a bit like stepping back in time. Candy time.
We stopped by again a few days later. This place is not cheap. But not really speaking Italian combined with ordering chocolates you’re unfamiliar with yields some tasty joy.
