Aix-en-Provence
Jun 21st, 2011 | 05:32 PM
#1
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Joined: Mar 2003
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Aix-en-Provence
We land in Marseille around 10am on Thursday (July) and have a hotel booked in Aix-en-Provence for Thursday and Friday nights. We will be back in Provence (rental house near Avignon) later in the trip for a week so don't need to squeeze in anything other than Aix, and maybe a nearby village or two if we have the time.
We have a reservation at Le Formal for dinner on Friday night, but would love a recommendation for somewhere for Thursday night, good food , a great outdoor terrace, but kind of low key as we'll be a bit jet lagged I'm sure.
Also, given Thursday afternoon, all day Friday and Saturday morning what would you do? We like art, architecture, food, etc. Given a good market and a great place for a picnic we're totally into that. A great cafe to while away a few hours people watching, reading and soaking up the atmosphere - also heaven.
On the Saturday we'll be driving to Alpe d'Huez. We're not really under any great time constraint, just probably aiming to be in Alpe d'Huez by dinner so any recommendations for great diversions along the way would be most welcome.
Many Thanks!
Hez
We have a reservation at Le Formal for dinner on Friday night, but would love a recommendation for somewhere for Thursday night, good food , a great outdoor terrace, but kind of low key as we'll be a bit jet lagged I'm sure.
Also, given Thursday afternoon, all day Friday and Saturday morning what would you do? We like art, architecture, food, etc. Given a good market and a great place for a picnic we're totally into that. A great cafe to while away a few hours people watching, reading and soaking up the atmosphere - also heaven.
On the Saturday we'll be driving to Alpe d'Huez. We're not really under any great time constraint, just probably aiming to be in Alpe d'Huez by dinner so any recommendations for great diversions along the way would be most welcome.
Many Thanks!
Hez
Jun 22nd, 2011 | 03:18 AM
#2
Joined: Dec 2005
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One of the best markets in southern France. Gorgeous streets and buildings. The Cours Mirabeau is lined with cafes, the most famous being the Deux Garcons, where Cezanne (a local) hung out with Victor Hugo (another local). Visit Cezanne's studio, check out the Rue Cardinal (used as a movie set because it still looks medieval once you cover the streets with straw). Tour the many fountains, each different, one of the best being the Quatre Dauphines. Read up on Good King Rene and Provencal history. Visit the Cathedral. It will be hot. Aix is one of the top ten places in the world for beautiful girls.
Jun 22nd, 2011 | 06:45 AM
#4
Joined: Sep 2007
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Hez,
Just to echo one of the comments you already have; a quintessential Aix moment from our last trip driving in the South of France.
We were sitting at a cafe on the Cours Mirabeau, enjoying a some very cold beer, when an an exceptionally pretty young woman walked in front of us. She was wearing a barely there summer dress and carrying an expensive looking satchel. (My wife said it was real.)
She walked to a very large ATV, pulled a helmet out of the bag, and wearing helmet, frock and sandals, roared away down the Cours towards the Cezanne fountain.
We love Aix!
Just to echo one of the comments you already have; a quintessential Aix moment from our last trip driving in the South of France.
We were sitting at a cafe on the Cours Mirabeau, enjoying a some very cold beer, when an an exceptionally pretty young woman walked in front of us. She was wearing a barely there summer dress and carrying an expensive looking satchel. (My wife said it was real.)
She walked to a very large ATV, pulled a helmet out of the bag, and wearing helmet, frock and sandals, roared away down the Cours towards the Cezanne fountain.
We love Aix!
Jun 22nd, 2011 | 07:49 AM
#5
Joined: Aug 2005
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Yep, Aix is great. So lively and beautiful.
In addition to the busy Cours Mirabeau, you should definitely stop at the cafes on the beautiful squares north of the Cours. There are several of these squares. Evertything is within easy walking distance.
I remember having a really super dinner at a place called Zinc Hugo on the west side of town.
For a half-day side trip, you could consider St. Maximin, about 20 miles east of Aix. An exquisite Gothic church interior, holding what tradition says are relics of Mary Magdalen. You may not have enough time though. Aix is really enjoyable by itself.
What you definitely do not have time for is a side trip to Cassis, which is very tempting and pretty, but I don't think you will be able to get near it on a Friday in July.
In addition to the busy Cours Mirabeau, you should definitely stop at the cafes on the beautiful squares north of the Cours. There are several of these squares. Evertything is within easy walking distance.
I remember having a really super dinner at a place called Zinc Hugo on the west side of town.
For a half-day side trip, you could consider St. Maximin, about 20 miles east of Aix. An exquisite Gothic church interior, holding what tradition says are relics of Mary Magdalen. You may not have enough time though. Aix is really enjoyable by itself.
What you definitely do not have time for is a side trip to Cassis, which is very tempting and pretty, but I don't think you will be able to get near it on a Friday in July.
Jun 22nd, 2011 | 03:05 PM
#7
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Thanks all for the excellent recommendations! Our good friends got engaged in Cassis so I had looked at maybe doing that but decided it just wouldn't work. I'll have a look at St Maximin though if we do feel the need for a little excursion.
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Jun 22nd, 2011 | 04:03 PM
#8
Joined: Sep 2005
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Hez: also recommend a visit to the atelier...we walked up the hlll in snow furries and the the trees surrounding the atelier were dusted white. Yes, there is a good view of Victoire from one of the windows, also.
We enjoyed one of Peter Mayle's recos at Chez Gu's, on a side street just south of the Cours. We were warmly greeted by Gu (handlebar mustache and all). For the nice weather you'll probably have, sitting at any of the cafes along the Cours is great for people watching.
We stayed in the square of the Four Dolphins at a friendly little lodging called , what else, "Quatre Dauphines"..there is a parking garage one block away which may be convenient to where you are staying.
Hunt up one of the Santon (clay figurines) makers on the street behind the Cours...he'll give you a demonstration..if you don't buy, it's an appropriate gesture to leave a Euro or two.
The Tuesday market is one of the better ones in Provence....many take-out opportunities, as the place is awash with kabobs...the aroma of which greets you as you enter the marketplace.
Enjoy your trip!
Stu
Enjoy your trip!
stu
We enjoyed one of Peter Mayle's recos at Chez Gu's, on a side street just south of the Cours. We were warmly greeted by Gu (handlebar mustache and all). For the nice weather you'll probably have, sitting at any of the cafes along the Cours is great for people watching.
We stayed in the square of the Four Dolphins at a friendly little lodging called , what else, "Quatre Dauphines"..there is a parking garage one block away which may be convenient to where you are staying.
Hunt up one of the Santon (clay figurines) makers on the street behind the Cours...he'll give you a demonstration..if you don't buy, it's an appropriate gesture to leave a Euro or two.
The Tuesday market is one of the better ones in Provence....many take-out opportunities, as the place is awash with kabobs...the aroma of which greets you as you enter the marketplace.
Enjoy your trip!
Stu
Enjoy your trip!
stu
Jun 25th, 2011 | 12:00 AM
#9
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12
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There's lots to do in Aix. There are street markets selling fruit, flowers, produce and crafts dotted all around the Old Town on most days -- Saturday is a particularly good day for these. You could easily spend half a day browsing the stalls and the pretty streets and squares.
As previously mentioned, Cours Mirabeau is a must, and the adjacent Mazarin Quarter is worth a quick stroll round.
If you like art, there are a number of Cezanne sites. His studio at Lauves is a short bus ride from the centre, as is the Jas de Bouffan, where he lived and worked for many years. The majestic Bibemus Quarries are slightly harder to get to but worth a visit if you have time. Or you could simply do the "Cezanne walk" around various locations in the centre of town where he lived and worked. The walk is marked on the pavement by brass tiles, and you can get a leaflet guiding you from the tourist office. There's also the Musee Granet, which has few Cezannes in its own collection, but is currently hosting an important show of major 20th century art on loan from a Swiss collector.
More about all these and other things to see in Aix: http://bit.ly/gdMI9K
I had lunch in Le Zinc d'Hugo about four months ago and was disappointed - it has an excellent wine list but the food seemed pretentious and over-priced. Maybe I hit a bad day, but I've heard from friends that its reputation has declined somewhat. It doesn't have an outside seating area.
You could try Le Poivre d'Ane in the Old Town. It's a long-established Aix institution and is in this year's Michelin Guide. It has an outdoor terrace and is in a big square with dozens of other restaurnts if you decide against it. I haven't eaten there personally, though. You will definitely need to reserve.
As previously mentioned, Cours Mirabeau is a must, and the adjacent Mazarin Quarter is worth a quick stroll round.
If you like art, there are a number of Cezanne sites. His studio at Lauves is a short bus ride from the centre, as is the Jas de Bouffan, where he lived and worked for many years. The majestic Bibemus Quarries are slightly harder to get to but worth a visit if you have time. Or you could simply do the "Cezanne walk" around various locations in the centre of town where he lived and worked. The walk is marked on the pavement by brass tiles, and you can get a leaflet guiding you from the tourist office. There's also the Musee Granet, which has few Cezannes in its own collection, but is currently hosting an important show of major 20th century art on loan from a Swiss collector.
More about all these and other things to see in Aix: http://bit.ly/gdMI9K
I had lunch in Le Zinc d'Hugo about four months ago and was disappointed - it has an excellent wine list but the food seemed pretentious and over-priced. Maybe I hit a bad day, but I've heard from friends that its reputation has declined somewhat. It doesn't have an outside seating area.
You could try Le Poivre d'Ane in the Old Town. It's a long-established Aix institution and is in this year's Michelin Guide. It has an outdoor terrace and is in a big square with dozens of other restaurnts if you decide against it. I haven't eaten there personally, though. You will definitely need to reserve.
