Afternoon tea in London
May 2nd, 2006 | 10:09 AM
#1
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,682
Likes: 0
Afternoon tea in London
An American enquirer asked me about tea, and it struck me that others might like to see my reply on this much-discussd topic.
What their travel agents call high tea is what Londoners call full afternoon tea. In plush hotels and stores it usually costs twenty five pounds or so and you must phone to book before you go: they can advise you on dress. A handful have repeated mentions in this forum: I list them here from west to east.
Harrods
Basil Street Hotel, behind Harrods
Mandarin Oriental Hotel, Knightsbridge
Lanesborough Hotel, Hyde Park Corner
Claridges Hotel
Fortnum & Mason stores, the Fountain
Wolsey Restaurant near Piccadilly
Park Lane Hotel, Piccadilly
Savoy Hotel, the Strand
I have never taken full afternoon tea in London, and seldom in the provinces: it costs too much. London is not as good for tea as the English cathedral cities.
I do have some favourite London places at lower costs and with no dress code. Two hundred yards north of Kensington Palace, west of the gardens, is the Orangery, eighteenth century, with teas and light meals in an eighteenth century chamber. Half way down Marylebone High Street, on the western side, with a French name and good cakes, between Baker Street and Bond Street tuber stations. Another is on the first floor of the Royal Institute of British Architects, half way down Portland Place, between Regents Park and Oxford Circus stations. Another is a café just beside Temple tube station, near a couple of barrows sometimes good for fruit. The family are Italian, Papa here from 1945, and unlike most tea places they make the tea with loose leaves, not the unpleasant tea bags, and brew it good and strong, in the workers or soldiers tradition. They serve slices of sweet mince tart and of apple tart each big enough for two people, or they will give you half you a half slice wrapped in a paper napkin to take home. Nearly as good is open-air tea in Embankment Gardens, on the Embankment. Tea in Somerset House nearby is more elegant, more expensive, and less tasty – an enfeebled product. Befrore 2008 the Royal Festival Hall, over the river, will re-open, with a good tea serrvice on the upper floor.
From the first Sunday in May the people of the eighteenth century church at Kew Bridge serve tea weeky from 1.30 to 5.30. Please see http://www.saintanne-kew.org.uk/, then click for teas, which tells you: Teas are served in the Church Hall on Sundays throughout the summer from 1.30 to 5.30 pm. In fine weather tables are available in the churchyard with views of the cricket on Kew Green. The tea is home made: they offer scones and jam, sandwiches, cakes, scones, various teas (in tea bags, I am afraid) and fizzy drinks. This is a parish of professional people, and you may be served by professors, admirals, senior civil servants, and their spouses, among others. You eat amongst the tombstones, including that of the painter Gainsborough, and watch cricket on the green. All in all, an old English afternoon. Your quickest way is by District line to Kew Gardens, or faster from Waterloo at 12.50 and hourly in 26 minutes to Kew Bridge.
Ben Haines
What their travel agents call high tea is what Londoners call full afternoon tea. In plush hotels and stores it usually costs twenty five pounds or so and you must phone to book before you go: they can advise you on dress. A handful have repeated mentions in this forum: I list them here from west to east.
Harrods
Basil Street Hotel, behind Harrods
Mandarin Oriental Hotel, Knightsbridge
Lanesborough Hotel, Hyde Park Corner
Claridges Hotel
Fortnum & Mason stores, the Fountain
Wolsey Restaurant near Piccadilly
Park Lane Hotel, Piccadilly
Savoy Hotel, the Strand
I have never taken full afternoon tea in London, and seldom in the provinces: it costs too much. London is not as good for tea as the English cathedral cities.
I do have some favourite London places at lower costs and with no dress code. Two hundred yards north of Kensington Palace, west of the gardens, is the Orangery, eighteenth century, with teas and light meals in an eighteenth century chamber. Half way down Marylebone High Street, on the western side, with a French name and good cakes, between Baker Street and Bond Street tuber stations. Another is on the first floor of the Royal Institute of British Architects, half way down Portland Place, between Regents Park and Oxford Circus stations. Another is a café just beside Temple tube station, near a couple of barrows sometimes good for fruit. The family are Italian, Papa here from 1945, and unlike most tea places they make the tea with loose leaves, not the unpleasant tea bags, and brew it good and strong, in the workers or soldiers tradition. They serve slices of sweet mince tart and of apple tart each big enough for two people, or they will give you half you a half slice wrapped in a paper napkin to take home. Nearly as good is open-air tea in Embankment Gardens, on the Embankment. Tea in Somerset House nearby is more elegant, more expensive, and less tasty – an enfeebled product. Befrore 2008 the Royal Festival Hall, over the river, will re-open, with a good tea serrvice on the upper floor.
From the first Sunday in May the people of the eighteenth century church at Kew Bridge serve tea weeky from 1.30 to 5.30. Please see http://www.saintanne-kew.org.uk/, then click for teas, which tells you: Teas are served in the Church Hall on Sundays throughout the summer from 1.30 to 5.30 pm. In fine weather tables are available in the churchyard with views of the cricket on Kew Green. The tea is home made: they offer scones and jam, sandwiches, cakes, scones, various teas (in tea bags, I am afraid) and fizzy drinks. This is a parish of professional people, and you may be served by professors, admirals, senior civil servants, and their spouses, among others. You eat amongst the tombstones, including that of the painter Gainsborough, and watch cricket on the green. All in all, an old English afternoon. Your quickest way is by District line to Kew Gardens, or faster from Waterloo at 12.50 and hourly in 26 minutes to Kew Bridge.
Ben Haines
May 2nd, 2006 | 10:34 AM
#2
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,704
Likes: 0
Regarding the higher priced afternoon teas in London; I would assume with the more luxurious surrounds it's also more formal? Where would I go to read up on what is "expected" at one of these? I would also assume scones, pastries etc are served...what else?
May 2nd, 2006 | 03:07 PM
#4
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 2,472
Likes: 0
Thank you so much for this! I hope to have one afternoon tea when we visit London this August (couldn't fit it on our March visit). I will definitely look into one of these places.
Here are links to a recent thread on afternoon tea at the hotels:
http://fodors.com/forums/threadselec...p;tid=34791066
Here is a link to a London "superthread" - it is older, but may be of some help.
http://fodors.com/forums/threadselec...p;tid=34548473
Within it there are 3 threads on afternoon tea:
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34541593
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34498221
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34456840
Here are links to a recent thread on afternoon tea at the hotels:
http://fodors.com/forums/threadselec...p;tid=34791066
Here is a link to a London "superthread" - it is older, but may be of some help.
http://fodors.com/forums/threadselec...p;tid=34548473
Within it there are 3 threads on afternoon tea:
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34541593
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34498221
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34456840
May 2nd, 2006 | 03:59 PM
#6
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,801
Likes: 0
A British friend treated me to tea at The Goring Hotel when I balked at her offer to treat me to the Savoy because of the astronomical cost. She was amazed at the quality at the Goring, and for us it was a convenient location (at the back door to Buckingham Palace.)
Excellent selection of teas and impeccably fresh goodies. Fair price. Terrific service.
sandi,
Small sandwiches are also served -- salmon, watercress, etc. -- I think price is also determined by "brand" and name recognition -- or more bluntly put, snob appeal and bragging rights.
Excellent selection of teas and impeccably fresh goodies. Fair price. Terrific service.
sandi,
Small sandwiches are also served -- salmon, watercress, etc. -- I think price is also determined by "brand" and name recognition -- or more bluntly put, snob appeal and bragging rights.
May 2nd, 2006 | 04:27 PM
#7
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 37,459
Likes: 0
I had tea at Fortnum and Mason. It was on one of the upper floors. The reason I say this is, I have heard that they are doing some remodeling work at the store so don't know if the tea room is affected. It was medium priced I thought, about 20 pounds as I recall. It was a really nice way to close out a busy day. The service was very nice, they had a piano player so there was soothing background music. We did not have reservations and had no problem being seated. Don't know if that has changed. We had tons of scones, pastries, little sandwiches and if you ate them all they refilled the plates. I was so stuffed on scones I could hardly walk. I just love them. We didn't dress up. I was wearing a skirt, knit top and sweater jacket anyway, so I felt like I was dressed just fine. My brother had slacks, a nice shirt and jacket which was what he was wearing during the day anyway. Anyway, I don't care if it IS "just for the tourists as is sometimes stated here. Like I say, it was a lovely and relaxing close to a great day.
Trending Topics
May 3rd, 2006 | 01:32 AM
#9
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,682
Likes: 0
Many thanks for these replies. I have added points of yours to my file copy of the note, points on the Goring Hotel, dress variation between the Savoy and Fortnum and Masons, forum threads, and what is served. I have just phoned the Ritz, and they invite gentlemen to wear a jacket and tie and ladies to be smart, with no jeans and no trainers.
I shall be glad to read further points that I should add. I am interested to see that your replies are fixed upon luxury teas, not on good sensible teas. I expect you can find those in the States, so do not attend to them in London. I had not before thought of topography. The Savoy took its origin as handy for Pullman car boat trains from Waterloo to the great transatlantic liners at Southampton between the wars but all others gain by standing near to Buckingham and St James palaces.
Ben Haines
I shall be glad to read further points that I should add. I am interested to see that your replies are fixed upon luxury teas, not on good sensible teas. I expect you can find those in the States, so do not attend to them in London. I had not before thought of topography. The Savoy took its origin as handy for Pullman car boat trains from Waterloo to the great transatlantic liners at Southampton between the wars but all others gain by standing near to Buckingham and St James palaces.
Ben Haines
May 3rd, 2006 | 04:22 AM
#10
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 2,472
Likes: 0
I plan to try one of the very interesting tea places that you have mentioned, Ben Haines. I am especially interested in the Royal Institute of British Architects, which I have walked past, and the Embankment Gardens (hoping for good weather on my August trip). I will also stop in at Fortnum & Mason, if only to peruse their selection of teas available for purchase.
The luxury tea establishments do have a certain reputation for travelers. They appear to be quintessentially "English", and people set aside the time and money to splurge for this experience (never mind that most Londoners have no doubt never have had tea at the Savoy!).
I also appreciate the tip about tea in the cathedral cities. We plan to be in Salisbury; would we be likely to find a nice full afternoon tea there? We will also be in York, and are thinking of stopping at Betty's for tea.
The luxury tea establishments do have a certain reputation for travelers. They appear to be quintessentially "English", and people set aside the time and money to splurge for this experience (never mind that most Londoners have no doubt never have had tea at the Savoy!).
I also appreciate the tip about tea in the cathedral cities. We plan to be in Salisbury; would we be likely to find a nice full afternoon tea there? We will also be in York, and are thinking of stopping at Betty's for tea.
May 3rd, 2006 | 04:23 AM
#11
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
I find it interesting, this being my first London visit, that so-called "high tea" is less Londoner and more American tourist! I wonder what other "must-dos" on our list, accumulated from recommendations of friends and websites and guidebooks, are similarly characterized. Do Londoners ever ride the London Eye, for example?
May 3rd, 2006 | 04:27 AM
#12
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,641
Likes: 0
I've had tea at the Wolseley several times. I enjoy it but a few caveats: it's not "romantic" or particularly cosy--and the building's accoustics makes it fairly loud when it's really busy.
Also, it generally strikes me as "business teas" rather than the traditional leisure atmosphere. It's not unusual for marketing or media types to be doing deals or interviews over tea--I've encountered those every time I've been there.
Still, I like the vibe, think the full afternoon tea isn't expensive for what you get and it's a fun place to be. Although the Wolsely isn't cheap, I don't think of tea there as a "luxury" experience either.
Also, it generally strikes me as "business teas" rather than the traditional leisure atmosphere. It's not unusual for marketing or media types to be doing deals or interviews over tea--I've encountered those every time I've been there.
Still, I like the vibe, think the full afternoon tea isn't expensive for what you get and it's a fun place to be. Although the Wolsely isn't cheap, I don't think of tea there as a "luxury" experience either.
May 3rd, 2006 | 06:45 AM
#13
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,473
Likes: 0
Two more places for tea (just tea, not necessary full afternoon tea): Inn the Park at St.James Park, it is nice to sit among the flowering trees and watch the pelican. They serve loose tea not tea bag, and have nice breakfast too.
The cafe at the Museum of Garden history serves good tea and homemade pastries, you could sit at the lovely garden also.
To noe847,Usually the cafe or restaurant in cathedrals serve very good meal and tea, I had something really nice at Refectory Restaurant in Salisbury Cathedral.
The cafe at the Museum of Garden history serves good tea and homemade pastries, you could sit at the lovely garden also.
To noe847,Usually the cafe or restaurant in cathedrals serve very good meal and tea, I had something really nice at Refectory Restaurant in Salisbury Cathedral.
May 3rd, 2006 | 09:58 AM
#14
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 7,160
Likes: 0
Traditionally in England high tea was a light supper, maybe with a boiled egg, eaten about 6 PM by the working classes in the North.
Afternoon tea was taken by the upper classes at about 4. It was a light meal to get them from lunch at 1PM to dinner at 8. Afternoon tea included sandwiches. (I always wondered what cucumber sandwiches were like. Now I know.) Also a heavy fruit cake, maybe scones, etc.
I've had afternoon tea a couple times in England. I always skipped dinner that night.
Afternoon tea was taken by the upper classes at about 4. It was a light meal to get them from lunch at 1PM to dinner at 8. Afternoon tea included sandwiches. (I always wondered what cucumber sandwiches were like. Now I know.) Also a heavy fruit cake, maybe scones, etc.
I've had afternoon tea a couple times in England. I always skipped dinner that night.
May 3rd, 2006 | 05:59 PM
#16
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Hey great post Ben!
On the more budget side of afternoon tea, I quite enjoy Cafe in the Crypt beneath St Martin in the Fields (North East side of Trafalgar Square).
Decent tea, scones, cake and wonderful atmosphere!
And A LOT cheaper than the overpriced hotels.
For all those interested in tea, you might enjoy visiting Twinings Tea along Strand, just across from the Royal Courts of Justice. Twinings supplies to the Queen.
Also there's the Brahma Tea & Coffee Museum about a 10 minute walk from London Bridge.
As for kathgilliam's question re: must-dos and Londoners going on the London Eye... from what I've noticed amongst my fellow Londoners the majority of them have not been on the Eye (or other attractions), unless of course they went to some of the attractions AGES ago as a kid with some or other school group.
On the more budget side of afternoon tea, I quite enjoy Cafe in the Crypt beneath St Martin in the Fields (North East side of Trafalgar Square).
Decent tea, scones, cake and wonderful atmosphere!
And A LOT cheaper than the overpriced hotels.
For all those interested in tea, you might enjoy visiting Twinings Tea along Strand, just across from the Royal Courts of Justice. Twinings supplies to the Queen.
Also there's the Brahma Tea & Coffee Museum about a 10 minute walk from London Bridge.
As for kathgilliam's question re: must-dos and Londoners going on the London Eye... from what I've noticed amongst my fellow Londoners the majority of them have not been on the Eye (or other attractions), unless of course they went to some of the attractions AGES ago as a kid with some or other school group.
May 4th, 2006 | 10:07 AM
#17
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,682
Likes: 0
noe847: Sorry, I do not know about tea in Salisbury. So I tried Google, and you might try the refectory in the Cathedral (as has been said), or the lounge of the White Hart Hotel. I expect the hotel to be the more correct.
Ms Gilliam: Yes, Londoners ride the Eye at school half holidays, and when visitors come from the provinces. I think it may mean more to us than to foreigners, as we are more likely to know what places mean – Watt Tyler on Blackheath, for example. It costs a lot for what you get, and anybody can take a lift to the twenty-fifth floor of Guys Tower near London Bridge station and see the hills of the home counties, free.
Carolyn: Many thanks. You are right: the Basil Hotel has closed.
Mr Craig: Thank you, I have ad
ded the crypt. I am afraid I do not like the atmosphere – too packed in. Also, in good weather for meals other than tea the Gordons Wine Bar 300 yards away by Embankment Underground station is better.
Ben Haines
Ms Gilliam: Yes, Londoners ride the Eye at school half holidays, and when visitors come from the provinces. I think it may mean more to us than to foreigners, as we are more likely to know what places mean – Watt Tyler on Blackheath, for example. It costs a lot for what you get, and anybody can take a lift to the twenty-fifth floor of Guys Tower near London Bridge station and see the hills of the home counties, free.
Carolyn: Many thanks. You are right: the Basil Hotel has closed.
Mr Craig: Thank you, I have ad
ded the crypt. I am afraid I do not like the atmosphere – too packed in. Also, in good weather for meals other than tea the Gordons Wine Bar 300 yards away by Embankment Underground station is better.
Ben Haines
May 4th, 2006 | 10:31 AM
#18
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 7,313
Likes: 0
Once again, Ben proves a font of useful information 
I have a strange question -- I am going to Ireland this summer, including several days in Dublin. I am bringing two girlfriends who have never been to Europe before, and they want to know if they can have 'afternoon tea'. Do the Irish do tea like that? I don't recall from my previous visits! Thanks!
I have a strange question -- I am going to Ireland this summer, including several days in Dublin. I am bringing two girlfriends who have never been to Europe before, and they want to know if they can have 'afternoon tea'. Do the Irish do tea like that? I don't recall from my previous visits! Thanks!
May 4th, 2006 | 10:58 AM
#19
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
Greendragon, I don't know from personal experience, but my parents went to Ireland a few years ago and they raved about Irish afternoon tea. I've also seen it talked about on the Travel Channel's show "Passport to Europe" with Samantha Brown. She had afternoon tea in Kerry at a lovely little farm/hotel. It looked great. I can't wait to go now.
Kate
Kate
May 4th, 2006 | 11:11 AM
#20
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
"the Basil Hotel has closed."
I'm sorry to hear this. I've had tea there a couple of times while in London. I usually got the cream tea (scones & tea), and even though they used tea bags, the scones were large and absolutely delish. And the price was good.
I usually go to The Fountain at F&M because I love the blends so much. To change it up this last time I ordered the Welsh Rarebit. My mother used to make this for me and it was just like she used to make. Yummy!! Concerning making reservations ... I've found that the last few times I've been I've had to make reservations so that I could be seated at a reasonable time.
Ben, thanks for the recommendations on "different" places to go. I'm going to have to try some of those out. Also, since I'll be travelling in the countryside (particularly Salisbury) I'll have to try the catheral/church teas recommended.
Many thanks again from an avid tea drinker.
Kate
I'm sorry to hear this. I've had tea there a couple of times while in London. I usually got the cream tea (scones & tea), and even though they used tea bags, the scones were large and absolutely delish. And the price was good.
I usually go to The Fountain at F&M because I love the blends so much. To change it up this last time I ordered the Welsh Rarebit. My mother used to make this for me and it was just like she used to make. Yummy!! Concerning making reservations ... I've found that the last few times I've been I've had to make reservations so that I could be seated at a reasonable time.
Ben, thanks for the recommendations on "different" places to go. I'm going to have to try some of those out. Also, since I'll be travelling in the countryside (particularly Salisbury) I'll have to try the catheral/church teas recommended.
Many thanks again from an avid tea drinker.
Kate
