Palermo vs Siracusa
Oct 2nd, 2004, 06:53 AM
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While I love Siracusa, I think a wider range of history and culture is to be found in Palermo and environs. What Siracusa has that Palermo does not is Greek ruins and a unique cathedral built inside a 6th-century B.C. Greek temple. The Baroque is the period best represented in Siracusa, but Palermo has many Baroque churches and I understand that Bagheria, near Palermo, has quite a number of Baroque palazzi.
Here is a brief list of Palermo attractions that I sent to a friend who was going to Sicily:
Palermo has an Arabo-Norman cathedral, whose interior was pretty well ruined during the Baroque period; it still holds the tombs of Frederick II and members of his family; the Palazzo dei Normanni with the Cappella Palatina, with wonderful mosaics; La Martorana, which is a jewel of Byzantine mosaics, and, right next to it, San Cataldo, which has no ornament whatever but whose Arabo-Norman architecture is fascinating; the best archeological museum, in my opinion, in Sicily (the archaic metopes from Temple A or G or E at Selinunte are wonderful, as are a few of the other Greek sculptures); the Galleria regionale della Sicilia, with a small but lovely Antonello da Messina of the "Annunziata" and one or two sculptures by Laurana, a largely unknown Sicilian sculptor whose works have great delicacy; a number of hugely ornate churches of the Sicilian Baroque, absolutely covered in stucco work; and various odds and ends, including a palace left to the city by some aristocrat or other that still looks as it might have done in the 18th or 19th century. Monreale is basically a suburb of Palermo; its Arabo-Norman cathedral is covered wall-to-wall in Byzantine mosaics and has a beautiful cloister that is not to be missed.
Here is the description of Siracusa and environs sent to the same friend:
The interesting part of Siracusa is basically the tiny part of it that is on the island of Ortigia: almost entirely Baroque, a little run-down around the edges but with great charm and a cathedral that is unique in the world: built into a 6th-century B.C. temple of Athena, the columns of which are still visible, and with a fanciful Baroque facade pasted onto it; modern Siracusa is to be avoided, except that one has to go through it to get to the archeological zone - not the best in Sicily; only the Greek theatre is of any real interest - and the archeological museum - not, to my mind, as interesting as the one in Palermo and very confusingly laid out.
Nearby are Noto (a wonderfully preserved Baroque town - except for the cathedral, whose dome collapsed in, I think, 1996 and has not yet been put back up again - and where one must visit the Palazzo Nicolaci Villadorata: six (or maybe eight) balconies on the facade held up by a weird and wonderful assortment of grotesques and an interior that has been more or less preserved, including one room with an exquisite floor made of blue-green-gold tiles from Vietri sul Mare); Ragusa (another Baroque town, the old part of which, I have been told, contains no building built since the 18th century).
I ate well in both Siracusa and Palermo.
On points, Palermo wins; but Siracusa has won my heart.
Here is a brief list of Palermo attractions that I sent to a friend who was going to Sicily:
Palermo has an Arabo-Norman cathedral, whose interior was pretty well ruined during the Baroque period; it still holds the tombs of Frederick II and members of his family; the Palazzo dei Normanni with the Cappella Palatina, with wonderful mosaics; La Martorana, which is a jewel of Byzantine mosaics, and, right next to it, San Cataldo, which has no ornament whatever but whose Arabo-Norman architecture is fascinating; the best archeological museum, in my opinion, in Sicily (the archaic metopes from Temple A or G or E at Selinunte are wonderful, as are a few of the other Greek sculptures); the Galleria regionale della Sicilia, with a small but lovely Antonello da Messina of the "Annunziata" and one or two sculptures by Laurana, a largely unknown Sicilian sculptor whose works have great delicacy; a number of hugely ornate churches of the Sicilian Baroque, absolutely covered in stucco work; and various odds and ends, including a palace left to the city by some aristocrat or other that still looks as it might have done in the 18th or 19th century. Monreale is basically a suburb of Palermo; its Arabo-Norman cathedral is covered wall-to-wall in Byzantine mosaics and has a beautiful cloister that is not to be missed.
Here is the description of Siracusa and environs sent to the same friend:
The interesting part of Siracusa is basically the tiny part of it that is on the island of Ortigia: almost entirely Baroque, a little run-down around the edges but with great charm and a cathedral that is unique in the world: built into a 6th-century B.C. temple of Athena, the columns of which are still visible, and with a fanciful Baroque facade pasted onto it; modern Siracusa is to be avoided, except that one has to go through it to get to the archeological zone - not the best in Sicily; only the Greek theatre is of any real interest - and the archeological museum - not, to my mind, as interesting as the one in Palermo and very confusingly laid out.
Nearby are Noto (a wonderfully preserved Baroque town - except for the cathedral, whose dome collapsed in, I think, 1996 and has not yet been put back up again - and where one must visit the Palazzo Nicolaci Villadorata: six (or maybe eight) balconies on the facade held up by a weird and wonderful assortment of grotesques and an interior that has been more or less preserved, including one room with an exquisite floor made of blue-green-gold tiles from Vietri sul Mare); Ragusa (another Baroque town, the old part of which, I have been told, contains no building built since the 18th century).
I ate well in both Siracusa and Palermo.
On points, Palermo wins; but Siracusa has won my heart.
Oct 2nd, 2004, 06:57 AM
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Good morning, Cordoba relative to Palermo vs Siracusa, personally would
find them a draw. BOTH have many of the same attributes, both in and out of the city. If you have the time would suggest that since that there is only 161 miles between them and 140 miles are on expressway with a driving time of 2 hr and 30 min. You consider spending two days in Siracusa and what ever remaining time in Palermo. The time in Siracusa will be well worth the trip...I only prefer Siracusa and that is only because it is smaller than
Palermo but no less as important. Richard of LaGrange Park, Il...
find them a draw. BOTH have many of the same attributes, both in and out of the city. If you have the time would suggest that since that there is only 161 miles between them and 140 miles are on expressway with a driving time of 2 hr and 30 min. You consider spending two days in Siracusa and what ever remaining time in Palermo. The time in Siracusa will be well worth the trip...I only prefer Siracusa and that is only because it is smaller than
Palermo but no less as important. Richard of LaGrange Park, Il...
Oct 2nd, 2004, 09:50 AM
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I vote for Palermo. seeing the cathedral in nearby Monreale and the catacombs in Palermo along with all the shopping were among my favorite things to see and do in Palermo. We also took the train from Palermo to Agrigento for the day which was really enjoyable and easy to do.
We honestly didn't enjoy Siracusa. We walked to the museum and the Greek ruins from Ortygia. Although it was great to see these sights, I couldn't believe how filthy the city was. There was dog doo-doo EVERYWHERE! I think Palermo has more to offer the traveler.
We honestly didn't enjoy Siracusa. We walked to the museum and the Greek ruins from Ortygia. Although it was great to see these sights, I couldn't believe how filthy the city was. There was dog doo-doo EVERYWHERE! I think Palermo has more to offer the traveler.
Oct 2nd, 2004, 06:37 PM
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"How long was the train from Palermo to Agrigento??" Oh, about 11 cars.
Sorry, couldn't resist.
Actually I posted to say I loved Siracusa, but since it's one or the other, I'd vote for Palermo. We went expecting a really horrible, dirty, crime ridden city -- boy were we wrong. We really enjoyed it.
Yes, Monreale is a must (and this from a cathedral non-lover). And get up to Erice. But mainly just enjoy Palermo.
Sorry, couldn't resist.
Actually I posted to say I loved Siracusa, but since it's one or the other, I'd vote for Palermo. We went expecting a really horrible, dirty, crime ridden city -- boy were we wrong. We really enjoyed it.
Yes, Monreale is a must (and this from a cathedral non-lover). And get up to Erice. But mainly just enjoy Palermo.
Oct 3rd, 2004, 08:35 AM
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From Palermo to Agrigento is about 2 hours.
The last train for Palermo -- on the present schedule -- leaves at around 8:00 p.m.
There are two stations in Agrigento -- Agrigento Bassa and Agrigento Centrale. My guess is that the first is the one closer to the Valley of the Temples and that the second is the one up in the town. You would have to check it out.
The last train for Palermo -- on the present schedule -- leaves at around 8:00 p.m.
There are two stations in Agrigento -- Agrigento Bassa and Agrigento Centrale. My guess is that the first is the one closer to the Valley of the Temples and that the second is the one up in the town. You would have to check it out.
Oct 4th, 2004, 11:21 AM
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Howdy..according to my notes, we left Palermo at 8:40 am and the ride was 2:20 min. It cost 27 Euro for two-round trip. Exit Agrigento Centrale station. Upon arrival, buy your bus tickets at the bar at the train station. Take the orange bus 1,2, or 3. It's a 10 minute ride to the ruins. When you're done, flag down any passing ORANGE bus (as they all go the train station).
We took an informative audio self guided tour of the ruins and left around 3 or 4 o'clock to return to Palermo. There were only two cars on the train ride home and we had them to ourselves for about an hour. Fun memories.
We took an informative audio self guided tour of the ruins and left around 3 or 4 o'clock to return to Palermo. There were only two cars on the train ride home and we had them to ourselves for about an hour. Fun memories.
