Advice on Puglia Itinerary?
Mar 2nd, 2009, 07:01 AM
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Advice on Puglia Itinerary?
I have 11 full days in Italy in late April, not counting travel days, and will probably spend 2 or 3 days re-visiting Rome, where I've been several times.
The rest of the time I want to spend touring Puglia, land of my maternal roots, where I've never been, so that is my priority. I will have a car for 8 days and was thinking of dividing my time equally between a base in the Gargano peninsula and one near Lecce, with maybe a night in between in a trulli in Alberobello. I like leisurely driving on scenic roads, with lots of stops for photo ops, and wandering around pretty little towns. Not really interested in the cities like Bari or Brindisi, unless there is something really special to see there.
Any comments, advice, on this itinerary? Is this sufficient time to explore the area? I can forego some time in Rome if that's preferable.
All suggestions welcome. TIA
The rest of the time I want to spend touring Puglia, land of my maternal roots, where I've never been, so that is my priority. I will have a car for 8 days and was thinking of dividing my time equally between a base in the Gargano peninsula and one near Lecce, with maybe a night in between in a trulli in Alberobello. I like leisurely driving on scenic roads, with lots of stops for photo ops, and wandering around pretty little towns. Not really interested in the cities like Bari or Brindisi, unless there is something really special to see there.
Any comments, advice, on this itinerary? Is this sufficient time to explore the area? I can forego some time in Rome if that's preferable.
All suggestions welcome. TIA
Mar 2nd, 2009, 08:11 AM
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Yes, I like your overall plan. I would consider 3 locations maybe like this:
Gargano--3
Martina Franca or Alberobello--2
Lecce---3
That gives you good coverage of the entire area. Try to include Porto Cesaro and Gallopoli as you head south---bring your camera.
Gargano--3
Martina Franca or Alberobello--2
Lecce---3
That gives you good coverage of the entire area. Try to include Porto Cesaro and Gallopoli as you head south---bring your camera.
Mar 2nd, 2009, 09:09 AM
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Gargano is beautiful and mostly wild. Monte S.Angelo, Vieste and Foresta Umbra are the best shots.
Further south, Barletta and Trani worth a stop, the magnificent Castel del Monte is a suggested diversion.
If you don't like big cities, you can skip Bari and go directly to Val d'Itria area and surroundings. This is a very interesting area. Must-see: Alberobello, Locorotondo, Martina Franca, Cisternino, and IMO the best of all, Ostuni "the White City" with its blinding beauty. Not far from Ostuni, in Torre Guaceto you're going to see an undamaged piece of mediterranean scrub along the sea.
Sea is beautiful also in Salento, in the province of Lecce: Otranto, Castro Marina, Gallipoli and Porto Cesareo are the best places to stay in summer, but also in the spring you can enjoy of them.
Lecce is an unique historic and artistic location; it's not so big to be chaotic, and its colours are simply magic.
If your time is not enough, skip also Taranto and Brindisi.
If you have 8 full days, my suggestion is:
Day 1: Gargano
Day 2: Gargano
Day 3: from Gargano to Alberobello via Barletta - Trani - Castel del Monte
Day 4: Alberobello, Locorotondo
Day 5: Martina Franca, Cisternino, Ostuni
Day 6: from Ostuni to Lecce (via Torre Guaceto, if weather is good)
Day 7: Lecce
Day 8: Salento coastline tour
a shorter (and lighter) trip:
Day 1: Gargano
Day 2: Gargano
Day 3: from Gargano to Alberobello via Trani
Day 4: Alberobello, Martina Franca
Day 5: Ostuni - Lecce
Day 6: Lecce
Day 7: Salento coastline tour
Further south, Barletta and Trani worth a stop, the magnificent Castel del Monte is a suggested diversion.
If you don't like big cities, you can skip Bari and go directly to Val d'Itria area and surroundings. This is a very interesting area. Must-see: Alberobello, Locorotondo, Martina Franca, Cisternino, and IMO the best of all, Ostuni "the White City" with its blinding beauty. Not far from Ostuni, in Torre Guaceto you're going to see an undamaged piece of mediterranean scrub along the sea.
Sea is beautiful also in Salento, in the province of Lecce: Otranto, Castro Marina, Gallipoli and Porto Cesareo are the best places to stay in summer, but also in the spring you can enjoy of them.
Lecce is an unique historic and artistic location; it's not so big to be chaotic, and its colours are simply magic.
If your time is not enough, skip also Taranto and Brindisi.
If you have 8 full days, my suggestion is:
Day 1: Gargano
Day 2: Gargano
Day 3: from Gargano to Alberobello via Barletta - Trani - Castel del Monte
Day 4: Alberobello, Locorotondo
Day 5: Martina Franca, Cisternino, Ostuni
Day 6: from Ostuni to Lecce (via Torre Guaceto, if weather is good)
Day 7: Lecce
Day 8: Salento coastline tour
a shorter (and lighter) trip:
Day 1: Gargano
Day 2: Gargano
Day 3: from Gargano to Alberobello via Trani
Day 4: Alberobello, Martina Franca
Day 5: Ostuni - Lecce
Day 6: Lecce
Day 7: Salento coastline tour
Mar 2nd, 2009, 09:29 AM
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Several years ago, on the advise of our friends who live in Italy, we spent a night in Polignano A Mare (below Bari) at the Hotel Grotta Palazzese just to experience a fabulous dinner in the restaurant that sits inside a grotto with waves crashing 50 feet below. Unbelievable and reasonably priced!
Mar 2nd, 2009, 01:08 PM
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Thanks for the excellent advice, everyone. This is just the type of information I was looking for.
rj, the grotto sounds wonderful.
BTW, any suggestions on accommodations? I like small, charming places, and was thinking of B&B's and possibly an agriturismo.
Additional input welcome.
rj, the grotto sounds wonderful.
BTW, any suggestions on accommodations? I like small, charming places, and was thinking of B&B's and possibly an agriturismo.
Additional input welcome.
Mar 2nd, 2009, 09:11 PM
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panecott - I did a very similar trip about 2 years ago in May. I have posted a trip report on this site which you may find quite useful. It is called "My Party in Puglia". See if you can find it and whether it helps you out. Let me know if there are any other things you might need.
We LOVED Puglia and it is a very special place.
We LOVED Puglia and it is a very special place.
Mar 3rd, 2009, 07:10 AM
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Flame, thank you. I will check out your trip report tonight when I get home from work.
bilbo, I think the wine is definitely a good enough reason to visit a place.
All of these suggestions are a great help.
bilbo, I think the wine is definitely a good enough reason to visit a place.
All of these suggestions are a great help.
Mar 4th, 2009, 07:39 AM
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Flame, your Puglia report was wonderful. Thank you! And I'm sure I gained some weight just reading those descriptions of your meals!
A question about the driving into the towns and cities. I'm picturing mostly small towns where it's easy to find the center, park the car and tour on foot, or park just outside the town and walk around. But your description of Trani didn't sound that way. And maybe some other places?
My only experience driving in Italian cities was when I picked up a car in Como and dropped it off in La Spezia and it was a harrowing ordeal both times trying to read street signs and find my way with eveyone honking at me! I'd like to avoid that type of experience if possible. Any advice in that area? Did you have street maps or just wing it?
Also, did you eventually stay at Villa Giuliana? If so, any reviews? I had been considering that b/c it seems to be popular and convenient.
A question about the driving into the towns and cities. I'm picturing mostly small towns where it's easy to find the center, park the car and tour on foot, or park just outside the town and walk around. But your description of Trani didn't sound that way. And maybe some other places?
My only experience driving in Italian cities was when I picked up a car in Como and dropped it off in La Spezia and it was a harrowing ordeal both times trying to read street signs and find my way with eveyone honking at me!
I'd like to avoid that type of experience if possible. Any advice in that area? Did you have street maps or just wing it?Also, did you eventually stay at Villa Giuliana? If so, any reviews? I had been considering that b/c it seems to be popular and convenient.
Mar 4th, 2009, 07:43 AM
#10
Most of the towns have a core centre on a hill top often without car parking. Fortunaly someone built walls around these towns and these have now been smashed down. This means there is a mini-ring road near the hill summit which is where the car park is. You then dive into the town down whatever alley seems logical and hey presto there is the centre. What ever you do do not take a car right into the smaller town centres as you will be stuck
Mar 4th, 2009, 08:59 AM
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Re: Polignano A Mare at the Hotel Grotta Palazzese. Just so you know since you're leaving in April, we had thought of going there last May. I wrote to them having heard that this wonderful restaurant is closed in the winter. I wanted to know if it was open in mid-May. They wrote back explaining that they open the restaurant within the first few days of May. They have no exact date. It depends on the "environmental conditions". He said surely they would be open by mid-May. Unfortunately we didn't go. I'm still hoping! I hope that you'll write a trip report with accommodations, sights and restaurant recommendations. Sono gelosa! (I'm jealous)
Buon viaggio!
Buon viaggio!
Mar 4th, 2009, 09:49 AM
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bilbo, thanks for the info. It's reassuring. As long as I can dump the car in a quiet area and get around on foot in the towns I'll be fine.
Pilates, thanks for the heads up. I'll check out the restaurant when I'm there and hope I get lucky with the "environmental conditions". And I hope that my trip will be wonderful enough to make for an interesting trip report, which I'll definitely try to write.
travelinfool, I'm spending my first night in Foggia and picking up the car there the next morning. My mother was born in Toritto, a small town west of Bari. I'm planning to go there a have a look altho' I'm not expecting too much.
Pilates, thanks for the heads up. I'll check out the restaurant when I'm there and hope I get lucky with the "environmental conditions".
And I hope that my trip will be wonderful enough to make for an interesting trip report, which I'll definitely try to write.travelinfool, I'm spending my first night in Foggia and picking up the car there the next morning. My mother was born in Toritto, a small town west of Bari. I'm planning to go there a have a look altho' I'm not expecting too much.
Mar 4th, 2009, 09:14 PM
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panecott - I am glad my trip report was helpful. As to your questions, yes Trani was a bit of a problem but ONLY because, as opposed to the other places we stayed, here we stayed in town with the car. So we needed to get to the B&B and then also to get out of the town when we traveled for those 2-3 days in the area, and then back to the B&B. But while I also have not had much experience with driving in Italy, I found that it was not all that bad.
Our other two places were outside the city so no problem. Plus any of the small towns we visited, we did as you write, i.e. parked at the entrance or small square and then just walked around. They are all so small that it really was easy and not a problem at all.
As to Villa Giuliana, yes indeed we stayed there and we loved it. It is a bit outside of Lecce proper but again we drove there and parked outside the city old walls and just walked. There are several reviews of Villa Giuliana, including mine, also on tripadvisor. It is run by a young man and his mother. He speaks almost perfect English, a rarity in those parts, and is the most helpful guy. Rooms were comfortable, very clean, etc. Highly recommended.
Our other two places were outside the city so no problem. Plus any of the small towns we visited, we did as you write, i.e. parked at the entrance or small square and then just walked around. They are all so small that it really was easy and not a problem at all.
As to Villa Giuliana, yes indeed we stayed there and we loved it. It is a bit outside of Lecce proper but again we drove there and parked outside the city old walls and just walked. There are several reviews of Villa Giuliana, including mine, also on tripadvisor. It is run by a young man and his mother. He speaks almost perfect English, a rarity in those parts, and is the most helpful guy. Rooms were comfortable, very clean, etc. Highly recommended.
Mar 5th, 2009, 06:59 AM
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Flame, grazie. Your info on the driving confirmed what bilbo said and what I was hoping for. So now, I can just relax and enjoy.
I'm not really a nervous Nellie and I'm fine on the autostrada - altho' this trip will be mainly on the scenic routes - but trying to get thru' a city without a navigator can be an experience! I'll always remember creeping along in La Spezia trying to find the car rental place with everyone honking at me and some young guys passing me and yelling at me and jeeringly calling me "nonna" (grandma). LOL!
And thanks for the review of Villa Giuliana. It sounds perfect.
I'm not really a nervous Nellie and I'm fine on the autostrada - altho' this trip will be mainly on the scenic routes - but trying to get thru' a city without a navigator can be an experience! I'll always remember creeping along in La Spezia trying to find the car rental place with everyone honking at me and some young guys passing me and yelling at me and jeeringly calling me "nonna" (grandma). LOL!
And thanks for the review of Villa Giuliana. It sounds perfect.
Mar 5th, 2009, 07:37 AM
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I'm excited to find this discussion!! Going on a tour in Italy on April 23 and will be flying east to Puglia from Rome on May 8th or 9th. I land in Bari and want to head down to Alberbello and Lecce etc. Cannot drive a manual so am dependent on buses/trains/taxis......any help would be appreciated. Is it impossible to do the trip you are talking about above w/o a car ??
I'm older and as of now on my own I'm a bit concerned. Figured if I could stay in one place
in the middle and move around from there (Alberbello?). I've been on the computer for over a week and still can't figure out the transportation problem. Thanks in advance for your suggestions. By the way I do not speak Italian, I've tried but it was useless.
I'm older and as of now on my own I'm a bit concerned. Figured if I could stay in one place
in the middle and move around from there (Alberbello?). I've been on the computer for over a week and still can't figure out the transportation problem. Thanks in advance for your suggestions. By the way I do not speak Italian, I've tried but it was useless.
Mar 5th, 2009, 08:05 AM
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Puglia is a very long region, so it's a little difficult to visit all starting from a single base and returning there every evening. If you have enough time (8-9 days at least) you can divide your trip in two steps:
1. North and Central Puglia, with base in Bari (or better in some little towns in val d'Itria) from which you can visit Gargano, Castel del Monte, the Murge, Trani, Barletta, Alberobello and the rest Val d'Itria, Ostuni...) 5-6 days
2. South Puglia (Salento), with base in Lecce or Otranto or Gallipoli. 2-3 days
1. North and Central Puglia, with base in Bari (or better in some little towns in val d'Itria) from which you can visit Gargano, Castel del Monte, the Murge, Trani, Barletta, Alberobello and the rest Val d'Itria, Ostuni...) 5-6 days
2. South Puglia (Salento), with base in Lecce or Otranto or Gallipoli. 2-3 days
Mar 5th, 2009, 08:58 AM
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I just read Flame123's 'Party in Puglia'....what a wonderful experience and superb reporting.
Enjoyed it and found the information most helpful. If I only had someone to drive me around I'd follow your itinerary. As of now, I'm limiting myself as follows: South of Bari...the coast area; West to the caves; East to Alberbello; South to Ostuni; and then if possible to Lecce. And, of course all the places inbetween that you have mentioned. It looks very doable in 5 days but only if I had a car !! I wish the automatic was not so expensive or if I could share.........
One more thought........will that area be very hot mid May? I can't take the heat so if it is I may have to postpone the trip until early next spring (or October). What is your suggestion?
Enjoyed it and found the information most helpful. If I only had someone to drive me around I'd follow your itinerary. As of now, I'm limiting myself as follows: South of Bari...the coast area; West to the caves; East to Alberbello; South to Ostuni; and then if possible to Lecce. And, of course all the places inbetween that you have mentioned. It looks very doable in 5 days but only if I had a car !! I wish the automatic was not so expensive or if I could share.........
One more thought........will that area be very hot mid May? I can't take the heat so if it is I may have to postpone the trip until early next spring (or October). What is your suggestion?
Mar 5th, 2009, 09:09 AM
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Hi, bmetz -
I spent a few days in Puglia in late May a few years ago, and while the weather was uncomfortably hot on one day, the rest of the time the weather was fine (except for a cloudburst one afternoon). I visited Trani, Alberobello, Lecce, and Polignano a Mari using only public transportation and had no trouble.
Hope that helps!
I spent a few days in Puglia in late May a few years ago, and while the weather was uncomfortably hot on one day, the rest of the time the weather was fine (except for a cloudburst one afternoon). I visited Trani, Alberobello, Lecce, and Polignano a Mari using only public transportation and had no trouble.
Hope that helps!
