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Abruzzo 2.0 – 2nd Yr Italian Cooking School(+ Rome, Cinque Terre, Florence)

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Abruzzo 2.0 – 2nd Yr Italian Cooking School(+ Rome, Cinque Terre, Florence)

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Old Oct 7th, 2013, 04:32 AM
  #41  
 
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I'm really enjoying this report, Kwren, and glad you had such a great return visit.

I recently participated in a grape harvest here in PA! (alas, no stomping, though. They used a machine named "Lucy" to do the crushing). It was a lot of work, but I really enjoyed the 'reward' of sampling lots of good wine, so can't complain!

Also, I've too have been studying Italian for 4 years or so, and can recommend the "Behind the Wheel" series of CDs to help practice, if you're looking for other resources. It's not as instructional as the Michel Thomas, but they pepper in lots of vocab and phrases that would be useful for travel. (I call my car the "language lab". I think I have every CD out there, and try to practice every day)

Looking forward to more of your report!
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Old Oct 7th, 2013, 04:40 AM
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Glad you're enjoying my report, jmct

Where do you live in PA? I'm near Harrisburg. I didn't mention it, but we had a tiny 'Lucy' to press the grapes the day after crushing - a tiny contraption on legs that had to be hand cranked to get the remaining juice. Amazing that after all that stomping, there was still a huge percentage of unbroken grapes. They scooped them all out in batches and had DH crank. It was hard work. Was the one you saw in PA electric?

My husband swears by the learn-in-your-car method which is perfect since he is in his car every day. He used the "Learn French in Your Car" CDs years ago and I was so impressed that he could have a conversation when we arrived. That's how he felt with my Italian this time.

We are definitely interested in other resources, so I will look into this one too - thanks for the tip! We will return to Italy!
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Old Oct 7th, 2013, 04:57 AM
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I'm in Bucks. The vineyard we went to is called Sand Castle Winery. They hold all sorts of events and it's a beautiful place overlooking the Delaware River, if you're ever looking for a day trip. It's especially lovely this time of year.

Our Lucy was electric. It seemed like such a simple contraption, but yes, the amount of juice it extracted was amazing! we all sampled some as it was pressed, and it was the sweetest grape juice I ever tasted. It was a neat process to see!
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Old Oct 7th, 2013, 05:12 AM
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I agree with you assessment of the juice - so good! Some of it with us was taken and boiled into grape must. We were each given a jar of it to bring home. They forgot to give us the suggestions on what to do with it - we all got too wrapped up in other things - so I have to write to ask.

I'll keep the day trip in mind - it would be great in the fall! Thanks.
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Old Oct 7th, 2013, 05:29 AM
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kwren...

My mouth is watering at your meal and cooking class descriptions! Good thing I spent the last several weeks watching my weight and dropped a few pounds. I'm sure I'll gain them back next week during my visit to the Palazzo! ;-)
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Old Oct 7th, 2013, 06:00 AM
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You might gain them the first day. You have time to lose another - it will be worth it!
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Old Oct 7th, 2013, 07:22 AM
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MOSAIC CLASS WITH ‘THE DAVID’

Luckily, we were given a break before our next event, one that I was really looking forward to (but which, at the end of the trip, ended up in disaster! I’ll get to that part later.) Anyway, DH took a nap, I took a walk! Once again, I had to rush back up the hill because I am strangely drawn to the base of the town, but at least I had left myself 25 minutes instead of 20 so was in much better shape as far as the return went. (Yes, my recommendation of at least 30 minutes still stands!)

This afternoon we had a group mosaic class scheduled. I arrived first as I couldn’t face even one more staircase, not even up to my room after the climb up Carunchio. The artist David (“The David” since we are in Italy after all) was busy pouring out thousands and thousands of tiny earthtone, black, white and green hand-cut cubes of natural stone tiles into neat piles on the long kitchen table. I think he cut all those tiles himself! David is a wild-looking guy who helped Massimo mosaic all the walls of the kitchen, and they are just breathtaking. A Tree of Life on one huge wall, Carunchio’s church complete with a piece of wood for the door on another, designs on other walls and the trademark tomato elsewhere. Oh yes, can’t forget the mosaic wine bottle! Each couple was to work together to make their own mosaic design on a 12 x 12 inch board. Since I was there alone before the class started, and since The David didn’t speak English, it seemed appropriate to try out my Italian skills. We actually had a decent conversation and when Massimo arrived, he was impressed that I told a joke (albeit a weak one) in Italian. (He liked it because it was about him!)

Some of us started by sketching on the board before tiling, others just went directly to gluing them on, but it the end it didn’t matter. All 5 boards were vastly different and all were wonderful! One person is an artist and did an amazing rendering of Cinque Terre, but everyone was happy with their mosaic! It didn’t hurt that partway through, we were given some Prosecco to sip while working, and that we were having so much fun with the other people.

The boards were left to dry overnight and were sprayed with a protective coating the next day, then were ready to go. DH’s backpack had a computer section which fit the mosaic perfectly and gave excellent protection. We knew we were set to travel so were very happy.
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Old Oct 7th, 2013, 08:12 AM
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since The David didn’t speak English, it seemed appropriate to try out my Italian skills. We actually had a decent conversation and when Massimo arrived, he was impressed that I told a joke (albeit a weak one) in Italian. (He liked it because it was about him!>>

I'm impressed too - telling jokes in a foreign language is very difficult. brava!
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Old Oct 7th, 2013, 10:51 AM
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MI-MI-MI-MI-MI

Next on the agenda was a repeat of last year’s opera concert, set in the foyer and courtyard of the palazzo. Massimo remembered how much we enjoyed listening to soprano Lili Stefanova last year, and invited her to give us a repeat performance. She is from Bulgaria and has performed at famous venues in the world before settling down in Vasto to raise a family.

Listen to ‘O Sole Mio’ sung at the palazzo for yourselves (filmed last year by a different group) and pretend you are there!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YZWK35XEgJw

She also sang ‘Ave Maria’ and I have to admit that while I’ve never particularly enjoyed that song before, it brought tears to my eyes with her singing it. Just gorgeous.


TIME TO DETOX, THEN RETOX

Following the concert, we went to the dining room for a presentation of natural soaps and creams (I could have done without this, but it was short and no pressure to buy) and then to our “Detox dinner”. None of us really knew what this was all about, but after all the wine we had consumed all week, it did sound like a good idea!

The menu:
A healthy barley salad with vegetables and cheese
Shepherd’s Purse on a creamy potato sauce
Lemon cupcake with a lemon curd filling, a swirl of lemon topping, and chocolate mousse-like cream on the side.

And we had wine…of course. Seems like a conflict of interest during a detox dinner to tempt us to tox again!
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Old Oct 7th, 2013, 12:16 PM
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NO BEACH, JUST BEASTIES!

We had scheduled a short trip to the beach this morning, but since it was raining, our plans changed to a trip to a small mall in Vasto. It was a typical mall – clothing, small department store (think Kmart-style), Game Stop, shoe stores, local products, etc., which were fun to see, but two things stood out. One was the Oasi foodstore. I headed directly for the baking aisle where I bought the powdered vanilla we had used in our cooking classes, then wandered around drooling over the cheese and sausage sections. The standout in this store was the fresh seafood section. There were the bags of mussels, whole squid, fresh whole fish, and the requisite Italian swordfish head, but also some scary-looking monstrosities! Some of the ‘fish’ for lack of better word, looked like prehistoric creatures, like trilobites! How do you even cook things like that, let alone find a recipe! No one bothered me while I took pictures, but later I heard that others in the group were stopped from using their cameras, that photography was not allowed. Well, happily, no one stopped me and it didn’t occur to me to ask. I got some great (well, interesting) shots!

The next store which caught my interest was unexpected. I had wandered into a large pizza shop/cafeteria and took a few pictures of the cold line. The beautiful salads made my mouth water. I saw the chef watching me (now, to some people that might have meant that they should not take pictures, but remember no one had stopped me), so I smiled and indicated that I would like to take his picture too. He grabbed one of the women behind the counter and they both posed for me (wife?). He then proceeded to come over and ask if had seen the ‘pasta bowl’ (yea – chalk up another Italian conversation for me!!!) However, I didn’t really understand this so said no. He took me over to a beautiful large white sculpture of a bowl with fruit and flowers in it. It was amazing! He explained that he had made it entirely from pasta and it took 4 months to do so. So I did understand after all! We talked a bit more until departure time.
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Old Oct 7th, 2013, 01:31 PM
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WHAT? OUR LAST DAY IN CARUNCHIO?!

It was gradually sinking in on the way back to Carunchio that This. Was. Our. Last. Day! Where did the time go? We stopped along the way for a Kodak moment – I had just learned how to use the panoramic feature on my camera (thanks for showing me Mattias) and wanted to try a shot of Carunchio and the surrounding scenery – and hurried back for a lunch prepared by Cheryle and Dino. And of course it was delicious!

A miniature pot pie with pesto sauce
Roast lamb
Crème brulée (I’m sure there is a better Italian name for it, but I just don’t remember it)
Wine

In anticipation of the gourmet foods “market” set up the last night (we ended up buying truffle salt), a few of us needed some money. A quick trip to the local ATM was arranged, but DH and I decided to walk down the hill, meet everyone there and get a ride back up (why didn’t we think of that before!) Not wanting to miss Massimo’s ride back, we got to the ATM early so had a bit of time to talk to some young boys who were playing soccer and riding bikes. They were so proud to try out their English on us and it was pretty good.

Back at the palazzo, the wine vat was being drained, but there were still plenty of whole grapes left despite the vigorous stomping of the previous day. A small grape press was assembled and the remaining grapes, skins and seeds were scooped out and pressed by some of the guests. We got 70 liters by the end. DH tried and said it was hard work. Wow – makes me appreciate all the wine of the week a whole lot more!

We took a tour of the building next door – currently in a major state of disrepair, but destined to become a shining example of Italian renovation in the future (I have my room picked out when it becomes ready for guests) – and then begrudgingly went to our room to pack. Noooooo – the worst part of the week, but soon to be followed by one of the best!
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Old Oct 7th, 2013, 03:02 PM
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"Crème brulée (I’m sure there is a better Italian name for it, but I just don’t remember it)"

It was zabaglione, but much lighter and airier than any I have had before
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Old Oct 7th, 2013, 05:29 PM
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Thanks johnny! I actually never heard of that before so that explains that!
I agree - very light and airy!
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Old Oct 7th, 2013, 07:38 PM
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what a trip..
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Old Oct 8th, 2013, 11:43 AM
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PIZZA NIGHT IS UPON US – SAVED THE BEST FOR LAST!

Of course, it was impossible to be sad for long – it was time for the famous Pizza Night! Since we had 2 newbies in our group, it only seemed fair to make them do all the hard work of making and kneading the pizza dough. ☺

The pizza oven was fired up, the ingredients – cheeses, veggies, meat, sausages, garlic, herbs, oils - were prepared and waiting and all we needed were our imaginations, appetites (no problem there!) and of course, wine. They also added beer to the mix that night.

Each person could stretch out their own dough (they don’t toss pizza in the air in Abruzzo) and make a pizza or sit and watch as they saw fit. I made a potato-prosciutto-2 cheese-onion-rosemary-with-a-touch-of-olive-oil pizza and it was deemed delicious by the masses. We shared each pizza with the group and family members of the staff and then were treated to a very amusing concert given by Dino and Mattias, the new employee who had been driving us, serving us and entertaining us all week. A very nice guy who was usually serious, but given the right situation could really cut loose!

The last pizza of the night was an unusual combination of figs, honey, gorgonzola and chocolate – the Abruzzo dessert pizza! It was actually very good and as usual, we could barely climb the stairs at the end of the evening.


ARRIVEDERCI ABRUZZO

Since no one in the group had any tight time constraints on Saturday, we had a relaxed breakfast (with a little fruit carving escapade – what happens in Carunchio, stays in Carunchio) and left the palazzo in the bus at 9:30 instead of the usual 8:30. We had the requisite rest stop at our favorite Autostop and arrived in Roma about 2:00. Hard to say good-bye, but it was made much easier for us since we had another week in Italy to go.

As I said, last year was perfect and we were amazed at how it could have been even more fun this year.

Abruzzo 3.0 anyone?!
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Old Oct 8th, 2013, 12:12 PM
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Wonderful trip report, and it sounds like a truly magical experience! I hope you're able to return for 3.0 next year!
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Old Oct 8th, 2013, 01:08 PM
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lovely trip, kwren, thanks for sharing it with us.
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Old Oct 8th, 2013, 04:56 PM
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kwren...

Thanks for this terrific trip report!
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Old Oct 8th, 2013, 11:42 PM
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Good morning averyone! Nice to meet you!

I'm an Italian girl, I live in Abruzzo. I read abaut and I wanted to post.
If anyone wants to ask me something, I'm here!

Ciaooo

PS Sorry for my bad English...
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Old Oct 8th, 2013, 11:44 PM
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PS I forgot... I love cooking!
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