A Win At the Arc and Discovering Lisbon
Oct 23rd, 2013, 06:48 AM
#41
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YankyGal: I truly did find it hard to leave the view and came back at least a few times during the day. We could look out the window of the apartment and look up to the Miradoura das Portas do Sol and see all the "tourists" taking pictures of themselves with the Tagus River and Alfama backdrop. That was our view 24 hours a day. We also had the bonus of being able to listen to jazz, drink our vinho verde and watch the little dog below us patroling his patio, barking at everyone who dared to walk down the steps next to it. The owner would come out everyone once in awhile and scowl at the dog and say something in Portuguese, which the dog usually chose to ignore. It kind of reminded me of my Boston Terrier back home.
Oct 23rd, 2013, 01:30 PM
#42
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Thursday evening we rested and ended up back at Portas do Sol where we strolled to pretty much on and off all day as there was a tram stop up there that we used quite often. The view as always was spectacular. We took pictures of our apartment from that vantage point. We decided that the next day we would do laundry and hang my husband's red Pawsox shirt from the clothes line and it would be much easier to spot in a picture.
We stuck to the Alfama for dinners as it had such great atmosphere and it wasn't the easiest place to get in and out of at night. This time we chose a place that the owner had starred as one of her favorite spots. It was an easy walk up the steps to Escolas Gerais onto calcada de sao vicente to the restaurant O Carvoeiro. Here's a link with reviews http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restauran...tremadura.html
It was almost full, but we were seated right away by the waiter who waited on the entire room. My husband was facing the semi-open kitchen and exchanged thumbs up with the chef, a woman, who put up some very good meals. I had the fried squid, which was nothing like you would get in the U.S. if you ordered fried calamari. This was whole squid sauteed in a brown sauce with broccoli, carrots, and the whole boiled potato. Although the veggies sound rather mundane, they were delicious. The squid was tender and the sauce really enhanced the taste. I had a small jug of vinho verde. We had the olives and the bread that I think all restaurants put before you without being asked, just be aware that you will be charged for them if you eat them. We chose to eat them and were glad we had. My husband had a Brazilian steak with three sides in separate dishes of white rice, black beans, and some type of cooked greens that were delicious. We were way too full for dessert. The waiter was pretty gruff, but not in an unfriendly way. It appeared that the owner was behind the big bar, but it wasn't the type of bar that people sat at. I did hear some English, but mostly Portuguese.
After dinner I suggested we use our Viagem pass and ride the trams around. We got on the next tram that came along and headed up to Graca, a neighborhood above Alfama that had a small town feel to it. Little did we know that the tram terminated there. It said so on the tram's sign but we weren't aware of that at the time. So we got out and walked back down the hill getting out of the way of the trams and back to the apartment where we got our final view for the night. The cruise ship was gone and we had an open view on the Tagus. Fado was being sung below us and people walked up and down the stairway. We called it a night.
We stuck to the Alfama for dinners as it had such great atmosphere and it wasn't the easiest place to get in and out of at night. This time we chose a place that the owner had starred as one of her favorite spots. It was an easy walk up the steps to Escolas Gerais onto calcada de sao vicente to the restaurant O Carvoeiro. Here's a link with reviews http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restauran...tremadura.html
It was almost full, but we were seated right away by the waiter who waited on the entire room. My husband was facing the semi-open kitchen and exchanged thumbs up with the chef, a woman, who put up some very good meals. I had the fried squid, which was nothing like you would get in the U.S. if you ordered fried calamari. This was whole squid sauteed in a brown sauce with broccoli, carrots, and the whole boiled potato. Although the veggies sound rather mundane, they were delicious. The squid was tender and the sauce really enhanced the taste. I had a small jug of vinho verde. We had the olives and the bread that I think all restaurants put before you without being asked, just be aware that you will be charged for them if you eat them. We chose to eat them and were glad we had. My husband had a Brazilian steak with three sides in separate dishes of white rice, black beans, and some type of cooked greens that were delicious. We were way too full for dessert. The waiter was pretty gruff, but not in an unfriendly way. It appeared that the owner was behind the big bar, but it wasn't the type of bar that people sat at. I did hear some English, but mostly Portuguese.
After dinner I suggested we use our Viagem pass and ride the trams around. We got on the next tram that came along and headed up to Graca, a neighborhood above Alfama that had a small town feel to it. Little did we know that the tram terminated there. It said so on the tram's sign but we weren't aware of that at the time. So we got out and walked back down the hill getting out of the way of the trams and back to the apartment where we got our final view for the night. The cruise ship was gone and we had an open view on the Tagus. Fado was being sung below us and people walked up and down the stairway. We called it a night.
Oct 24th, 2013, 01:08 PM
#43
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Friday morning and it's still sunny and warm! We couldn't have asked for better weather. We were back to the idea of going across the river on a ferry. There are several routes and towns that you can go to. We decided on the closest town, Calcihas. On Friday the ferries were running every 20 to 30 minutes. It was a nice ride, but the ferry was totally enclosed and you couldn't sit outside. Once on the other side we walked along the dockside with old warehouses along it where some men were fishing. Back to the ferry terminal and train station and past restaurants with the waiters calling for people to come and sit. We walked up into the small town where many of the stores were still closed. If you wanted to take a bus to the statue of Christ, Cristo Rei you could, but we didn't want to do that so we allowed ourselves to be cajoled into one of the restaurants near the ferry terminal. As I said, it was a beautiful day and so we chose to sit outside at a table with an umbrella to shade us. We had some grilled sardines and the salad that they brought, which we didn't order, but turned out to be a good idea and the olives, which again we didn't order but were very tasty with the sardines. We accompanied that with a cold mug of Sagres beer. It was really pleasant and despite my not wanting to sit because the waiter was so aggressive, I was glad that we did. When we left the waiter shook my husband's hand and asked him to come again.
So back on the ferry for the 10 minute ride and out at Cais de Sodre. We walked all around the lower part of Lisbon, but really didn't stay too long. We did go up the funicular and even thought of going up the elevador de justa, but it was too crowded. We stopped for a shot of ginja at a place over near Rossio, ambled all around and finally wound up at a #28 tram stop. This would bring us back to the Alfama, where we went "home" and relaxed before we headed out for the rest of the day.
So back on the ferry for the 10 minute ride and out at Cais de Sodre. We walked all around the lower part of Lisbon, but really didn't stay too long. We did go up the funicular and even thought of going up the elevador de justa, but it was too crowded. We stopped for a shot of ginja at a place over near Rossio, ambled all around and finally wound up at a #28 tram stop. This would bring us back to the Alfama, where we went "home" and relaxed before we headed out for the rest of the day.
Oct 25th, 2013, 07:40 AM
#44
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On Friday we decided we had better get ourselves up to the Castelo de Sao Jorge, pretty much up the stairs and hill from our apartment. We walked up a steep stairway right off of the Portas do Sol and then up through an area of abandoned, broken down buildings that were overgrown with wildflowers and completely covered in some of the best graffitti art that I have seen. I took lots of pictures and realized that one of the walls was painted with M Chat who is all over Paris as well. M Chat made his appearance in several other places in Lisbon, including the rua guillherme braga right next to the apartment. You can google M Chat and see what he looks like.
The street leading up to the castle was of course full of souvenir shops and little restaurants. On Friday it wasn't too badly crowded, but on Saturday when we went up to look at a couple of the stores, it was packed. I would avoid going there on weekends. The views were of course, spectacular. I tend to have a problem with open heights so I didn't walk up too high on the towers, but my husband loves it, so he took lots of pictures, once again, from up high. You know the pictures of phobic, me way down below on the ground, waving.
Friday evening we chose our restaurant from the apartment map and walked down into the Alfama to find it. It was closed so we instead walked over to Santo Antonio de Alfama. It was a really nice setting under the grape arbor. It was a mild evening and so of course we sat outside, snagging the last table. Our waiter was very personable and the service was good. It wasn't your typical traditional Portuguese restaurant. We had a bruschetta with mozzarella for a starter, a wine and a beer, for me and my husband, respectively. For the main dish I had a vegetarian couscous which had a curry sauce. I thought it was good. My husband had a veal steak in gorgonzola sauce, which he also enjoyed. We had no dessert. Sitting outside you could see the comings and goings of the residents. They were several families with kids sitting in a small square nearby chatting with kids playing together. After dinner we strolled back through the narrow cobblestone alleyway streets back past the fado place, where a man was singing and up the stairs to our apartment. Next day would be our last full day, Saturday. Now was the time to get down to some serious souvenir hunting to bring home for the kids, and grandchildren.
The street leading up to the castle was of course full of souvenir shops and little restaurants. On Friday it wasn't too badly crowded, but on Saturday when we went up to look at a couple of the stores, it was packed. I would avoid going there on weekends. The views were of course, spectacular. I tend to have a problem with open heights so I didn't walk up too high on the towers, but my husband loves it, so he took lots of pictures, once again, from up high. You know the pictures of phobic, me way down below on the ground, waving.
Friday evening we chose our restaurant from the apartment map and walked down into the Alfama to find it. It was closed so we instead walked over to Santo Antonio de Alfama. It was a really nice setting under the grape arbor. It was a mild evening and so of course we sat outside, snagging the last table. Our waiter was very personable and the service was good. It wasn't your typical traditional Portuguese restaurant. We had a bruschetta with mozzarella for a starter, a wine and a beer, for me and my husband, respectively. For the main dish I had a vegetarian couscous which had a curry sauce. I thought it was good. My husband had a veal steak in gorgonzola sauce, which he also enjoyed. We had no dessert. Sitting outside you could see the comings and goings of the residents. They were several families with kids sitting in a small square nearby chatting with kids playing together. After dinner we strolled back through the narrow cobblestone alleyway streets back past the fado place, where a man was singing and up the stairs to our apartment. Next day would be our last full day, Saturday. Now was the time to get down to some serious souvenir hunting to bring home for the kids, and grandchildren.
Oct 26th, 2013, 08:03 AM
#45
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I put together some of our photos and here is the link:
https://picasaweb.google.com/1148196...eat=directlink
They are not your usual pictures of the big sites, just some of the things I thought would help me to remember our visit.
https://picasaweb.google.com/1148196...eat=directlink
They are not your usual pictures of the big sites, just some of the things I thought would help me to remember our visit.
Oct 26th, 2013, 09:25 AM
#46
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Time to finish up. Saturday was cooler and partly cloudy, but still what I would consider mild. We went down for our usual breakfast of natas and coffee at the tiny pasteleria down the stairs. We were getting to be regulars!
From there we walked up the Alfama streets toward Graca. Somewhere in between is the Saturday flea market, Feira da Ladra. On the street leading to the market area people were lined up on the sidewalks with their used things; clothing, knick knacks, pots and pans, records, etc. spread out on blankets or just on the sidewalk. Further on up the market started with tables and booths. We walked all over and looked at everything before we went back again and purchased a handmade handbag for our daughter. The craftsman was there and he was licensed by the city to market his product. We were looking for a soccer (football) shirt for our sil who plays and coaches the sport. We've made it a habit to bring him a club shirt from every country we visit. The licensed shirts in the stores are outrageously priced so we go to the flea markets and bargain for what is almost certainly a knock off. We had no luck at the market with the shirt. We headed over to the tram and down to Rossio where there were many areas of souvenir shops with club shirts hanging out front. We "bargained" a shirt down from 59 euro to 35 euro and probably paid way too much for it. It was the Benfica club from Lisbon. With that out of the way we walked around the lower area of Lisbon, rua Garrett and Baixa, Chiado. The area had all the brand name stores with pedestrian streets. We didn't look for anything here, but did come across a craft market and bought some gifts there and then to a t shirt store where you could pick out your own design and shirt. We picked the yellow tram for our granddaughters. I bought a really interesting looking scarf/necklace for our daughter and we were done!
After walking all around this area we headed back up to the Alfama and back to the flea market where my husband purchased some building tiles, blue and mustard colored design, that claimed to be from the late 1800's. He plans to hang them somewhere in the house.
Much of this day we walked, enjoyed views, picked up snacks here and there, rode the tram up and down, took lots of pictures, packed, and went out for our last dinner at the place my husband had liked so much our second night, O Carvoeiro. I had an octopus and rice dish that I enjoyed and my husband had the same Brazilian steak that he liked so much his first meal there. We shared a mango mousse and a jug of house red. Walking back to the apartment on our last night, we vowed to return to Lisbon and see more of Portugal.
Our last morning, Sunday, down to the Pasteleria we went and said good bye to the man behind the counter who had been so nice to us during our stay. We enjoyed our view for the final time, made sure the apartment was spic and span and then the doorbell rang and the owner was outside. She was very nice and promptly gave us our deposit back without inspecting the apartment. She had arranged for a cab to pick us up at my request. The horn honked and off we went down the hilly alleys of Alfama, down to Praca Figueres and over to the airport. This driver knew exactly where he was going and drove as fast as he could to get us there.
We were flying back to Boston on SATA airlines, which is based in the Azores. The plane looked to be about 30 years old or more, but it was a direct flight and they even fed us. I brought a book and read and napped. The entertainment was on a pull down screen and it was the movie "Rock of Ages". We did leave an hour late as they said the Customs people were backed up (?), but it was all ok and we got home safely to Boston.
From there we walked up the Alfama streets toward Graca. Somewhere in between is the Saturday flea market, Feira da Ladra. On the street leading to the market area people were lined up on the sidewalks with their used things; clothing, knick knacks, pots and pans, records, etc. spread out on blankets or just on the sidewalk. Further on up the market started with tables and booths. We walked all over and looked at everything before we went back again and purchased a handmade handbag for our daughter. The craftsman was there and he was licensed by the city to market his product. We were looking for a soccer (football) shirt for our sil who plays and coaches the sport. We've made it a habit to bring him a club shirt from every country we visit. The licensed shirts in the stores are outrageously priced so we go to the flea markets and bargain for what is almost certainly a knock off. We had no luck at the market with the shirt. We headed over to the tram and down to Rossio where there were many areas of souvenir shops with club shirts hanging out front. We "bargained" a shirt down from 59 euro to 35 euro and probably paid way too much for it. It was the Benfica club from Lisbon. With that out of the way we walked around the lower area of Lisbon, rua Garrett and Baixa, Chiado. The area had all the brand name stores with pedestrian streets. We didn't look for anything here, but did come across a craft market and bought some gifts there and then to a t shirt store where you could pick out your own design and shirt. We picked the yellow tram for our granddaughters. I bought a really interesting looking scarf/necklace for our daughter and we were done!
After walking all around this area we headed back up to the Alfama and back to the flea market where my husband purchased some building tiles, blue and mustard colored design, that claimed to be from the late 1800's. He plans to hang them somewhere in the house.
Much of this day we walked, enjoyed views, picked up snacks here and there, rode the tram up and down, took lots of pictures, packed, and went out for our last dinner at the place my husband had liked so much our second night, O Carvoeiro. I had an octopus and rice dish that I enjoyed and my husband had the same Brazilian steak that he liked so much his first meal there. We shared a mango mousse and a jug of house red. Walking back to the apartment on our last night, we vowed to return to Lisbon and see more of Portugal.
Our last morning, Sunday, down to the Pasteleria we went and said good bye to the man behind the counter who had been so nice to us during our stay. We enjoyed our view for the final time, made sure the apartment was spic and span and then the doorbell rang and the owner was outside. She was very nice and promptly gave us our deposit back without inspecting the apartment. She had arranged for a cab to pick us up at my request. The horn honked and off we went down the hilly alleys of Alfama, down to Praca Figueres and over to the airport. This driver knew exactly where he was going and drove as fast as he could to get us there.
We were flying back to Boston on SATA airlines, which is based in the Azores. The plane looked to be about 30 years old or more, but it was a direct flight and they even fed us. I brought a book and read and napped. The entertainment was on a pull down screen and it was the movie "Rock of Ages". We did leave an hour late as they said the Customs people were backed up (?), but it was all ok and we got home safely to Boston.
Oct 27th, 2013, 04:05 AM
#49
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For travel planning I used:
www.kayak.com
www.itasoftware.com
www.icelandair.com
www.airfrance.com
www.sata.pt
www.vrbo.com (Paris and Lisbon apartment)
www.casadalfama.com - Lisbon apartment owner's own website
www.francegalop.com - horseracing
www.ducdeslombards.com - jazz nightclub
www.ateliercharonne.com - jazz manouche club
www.ratp.fr - Paris transportation
For restaurants in Paris we ate at old favorites, but I do use review sites for opinions:
www.chowhound.com
www.yelp.com
www.tripadvisor.com
www.zagat.coom
and of course travel forums like this one for trip reports, etc.
for daily weather I use:
www.meteo.fr (Paris)
www.wunderground.com
www.accuweather.com (long term which usually changes daily)
www.weather.com
These certainly aren't secret links and everyone on this site probably already uses most of them. I also look for blogs about the city that I will be visiting. For Paris:
www.eyepreferparis - good photos and some good advice on what's happening
www.secretsofparis.com - what's happening
www.davidlebovitz.com - food and Paris
www.chocolateandzucchini.com - food with some reviews
I don't have any blogs for Lisbon, but just googled everything and bought myself a book. We didn't do a lot of sightseeing in Lisbon, just walking and exploring and observing so a good map was pretty much what we needed while there.
and last but not least, I park at Preflight Boston and print the 15% off coupon and if I wanted to prepay could save 20%. It's cheaper than the economy parking at Logan. It's in Chelsea a 5-10 minute ride to Terminal E.
We had a great time and I'm already trying to think of where we can go next. The planning is what gets me through the winters around here.
www.kayak.com
www.itasoftware.com
www.icelandair.com
www.airfrance.com
www.sata.pt
www.vrbo.com (Paris and Lisbon apartment)
www.casadalfama.com - Lisbon apartment owner's own website
www.francegalop.com - horseracing
www.ducdeslombards.com - jazz nightclub
www.ateliercharonne.com - jazz manouche club
www.ratp.fr - Paris transportation
For restaurants in Paris we ate at old favorites, but I do use review sites for opinions:
www.chowhound.com
www.yelp.com
www.tripadvisor.com
www.zagat.coom
and of course travel forums like this one for trip reports, etc.
for daily weather I use:
www.meteo.fr (Paris)
www.wunderground.com
www.accuweather.com (long term which usually changes daily)
www.weather.com
These certainly aren't secret links and everyone on this site probably already uses most of them. I also look for blogs about the city that I will be visiting. For Paris:
www.eyepreferparis - good photos and some good advice on what's happening
www.secretsofparis.com - what's happening
www.davidlebovitz.com - food and Paris
www.chocolateandzucchini.com - food with some reviews
I don't have any blogs for Lisbon, but just googled everything and bought myself a book. We didn't do a lot of sightseeing in Lisbon, just walking and exploring and observing so a good map was pretty much what we needed while there.
and last but not least, I park at Preflight Boston and print the 15% off coupon and if I wanted to prepay could save 20%. It's cheaper than the economy parking at Logan. It's in Chelsea a 5-10 minute ride to Terminal E.
We had a great time and I'm already trying to think of where we can go next. The planning is what gets me through the winters around here.
Oct 27th, 2013, 06:09 AM
#51
I love the color and the light in your Lisbon photos, it's a beautiful city. I have read accounts by people here who were turned off by the graffiti in Lisbon. It just shows that things affect people very differently. A guy I knew in Chicago once told me that some people see weeds, others see wildflowers.
(And nice to put a face with your name!)
(And nice to put a face with your name!)
Oct 27th, 2013, 08:30 AM
#52
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DebitNM: Here's the link to the apartment. We loved everything about it. http://www.vrbo.com/443533 What happened with Sylvain's apt.?
Nikki: Thanks for the comment. We loved Lisbon as well. I found the graffiti to be more what I would call graffiti art.
Nikki: Thanks for the comment. We loved Lisbon as well. I found the graffiti to be more what I would call graffiti art.
Oct 27th, 2013, 10:24 AM
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Thanks kerouac. I envy those of you who live in Europe and only have to travel a short ways (compared to me) to visit other countries in Europe. Paris will always be my special city, although there are other in close contention.
Oct 29th, 2013, 05:48 AM
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Thanks for posting the photos - they're lovely and interesting. I like graffiti, too. I found the "don't read newspapers, read walls," near your apartment building to be somewhat telling.
I remember seeing a story on M Chat on one of those news-magazine shows. It was fascinating.
Super report - thanks again.
I remember seeing a story on M Chat on one of those news-magazine shows. It was fascinating.
Super report - thanks again.
Mar 11th, 2014, 07:33 AM
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Great report, opaldog. I posted a question about the Arc and wonderful directed me to your post. I am planning to spend the day at Longchamp this October and am considering trying to get a seat in the member's grandstand. You have some of the same favorites we do. We almost always visit Ma Bourgogne for dinner or a drink while we are in Paris. This trip we are planning to have dinner at Café Constant. We also enjoy jazz. Our favorite venue is Lionel Hampton (which changed its name to Etoile?). Unfortunately, we had a much different experience at Brasserie de L'Ile Saint-Louis. We had tickets for a concert at Saint Chapelle and got to the restaurant well before the concert. The service was extremely slow, even for Paris, and we ended up missing the concert. The view there is one of the most beautiful in Paris but we will not return. This year we have an apartment rented on L'Ile Saint Louis and are counting down the days already! What was the weather like while you were in Paris. Also, what is the dress code for the Arc? Thanks again for a great post!
