A WEEK IN GALICIA..May

Old Mar 2nd, 2024, 11:21 AM
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eks,
I'm just here to wish you a wonderful trip. You'll be in the south much before we arrive in Córdoba on March 21 unfortunately, so we'll miss each other this time, but we'll be thinking about you!
Just to say that we hope you have a wonderful trip. ¡Buen viaje!


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Old Mar 7th, 2024, 05:19 AM
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Maribel, after being pleased with the decision to spend the two weekend nights at LA Tooja, I just received this e-mail from the hotel!!

Not sure it is will be smart to stay there without the luxury of the pools! but then it IS close to D'Berto and CULLER.

Can you think, off hand, of any other hotel for the 2 weekend nights that would be close do D'Berto?
Two nights in Cambados?

As. you know I am traveling now so not giving this my total interest but still want to plan for this next foray to Spain!!

<<<<Buenas tardes,
nos acaban de comunicar que la piscina está en obras y no estará operativa en mayo; quiere igualmente que le hagamos un presupuesto?

Un saludo,



Dpto. de Recepción y Reservas
Eurostars Gran Hotel La Toja*****
T: +34 986 73 00 25
Rúa da Condesa s/n
36991 O Grove
>>>>

I'm not sure I understand their offer to give me a "presupuesto" (???)


Its teeming now here in Cordoba!!!
Saludos, erica



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Old Mar 7th, 2024, 05:41 AM
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eks.
I assume you already made your reservations and were given a rate for the spa package? This may refer to the room rate being lowered due to the lack of the pool/spa facilities, the "presupuesto" being the amount your room and spa treatments would now cost per night without the spa facilities.

There are 2 other 4-star spa hotels on the island in addition to this classic Gran Hotel---another Eurostars, the Eurostars Isla de la Toja and the Talasso Hotel Lou a Toxa. Both have pools. Being 4-star rather than 5-star they wouldn't be a part of the AmEx Platinum program or hotels offered by Virtuoso.

Check their ratings and reviews on booking.com

The Cambados Parador would be a 25-30 min. drive from the two restaurants-- D'Berto and Culler de Pau. It's a nice Parador but not a "luxury" one, but neither is the one in Pontevedra city. And the Baiona Parador is just too far south. I've stayed at all 3 of these, plus Santiago's and Tui's and all the inland ones.

There's also the Augusta Eco Wellness Resort 4 star Superior in Sanxenxo, but I'm not a big Sanxenxo fan (been there but too developed for me, despite it being a favorite escape from Dubai of the King Emeritus, Juan Carlos.)
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Old Mar 7th, 2024, 08:23 AM
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Another thought, eks,
Since the pools at the Eurostars Gran Hotel La Toja will be closed during your stay, since there's another Eurostars on the island, the Eurostars Isla de la Toja, ask them if you can use their spa/pool services at the other property. Worth an email.
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Old Mar 8th, 2024, 02:56 AM
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I believe you don´t have to stay at the other Eurostars, the Eurostars ISLA DE LA TOJA to enjoy their spa-wellness facilities, which are very extensive. See the options here.
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Old Mar 8th, 2024, 05:54 AM
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La Toja is a must if you are around the area. Is a spa hotel for absolute relaxation.
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Old Mar 8th, 2024, 10:27 AM
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If it were my trip, which it isn't !!!!, I would book a corner suite with sea views at the Gran Hotel La Toja and use the spa/pool facilities at the other Eurostars on the island, the Eurostars Isla de la Toja. It's a 5 minute walk! La Toja island is indeed about total relaxation, but I would want water views from my room at the Gran Hotel, and expect very Old European Style ambiance; it's certainly not contemporary by any means, but that's part of the charm.
https://www.elmundo.es/viajes/espana...8738b4645.html

Last edited by Maribel; Mar 8th, 2024 at 10:49 AM.
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Old Mar 9th, 2024, 11:17 PM
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Maribel have you come across any excellent restaurants in or close to Pontevedra that are open on Mondays, particularly Monday nights but comida would be ok also, given the small selection on that day of the week? (I will have Monday and Tuesday in Pontevedra as long as I can sort out the La Toja hotel dilemma...
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Old Mar 10th, 2024, 12:01 AM
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eks,
For Monday lunch or dinner IN Pontevedra
O EIRADO, don't miss this one on a very pretty square, the Plaza de la Leña in the heart of the historic quarter. One Michelin star, one Repsol sun. Lunch from 1 to 4 and dinner from 9 to 11.

LA CASA DE LAS CINCO PUERTAS (Repsol recommended) is also open on Mondays for lunch/dinner.

Unfortunately the 2 Michelin starred and 3 Repsol sunned Pepe Solla in the suburb of Poio is closed on Mondays. The chef opened last month a new place, an asador, in a former hardware store called the CHURRASQUERÍA VARELA that I've read about in La Voz de Galicia. it´s open on Mondays and is getting lots of press. In fact upon its opening, it booked up immediately on the web. As you can ascertain by its name, the grill for meats takes pride of place here. He also does pizzas.
It's received lots of local press coverage because of the chef. By May I may have a better sense of the quality of cooking here from the local gastro critics.

Last edited by Maribel; Mar 10th, 2024 at 12:44 AM.
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Old Apr 5th, 2024, 11:18 AM
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Maribel, thanks so much for all the help, everywhere!!!

Eirado de Luna seems to be closed on Mondays; I tried to book on their website and was unable to do so on a Monday. (??)

I've now begun booking some of my restaurants:

After 3 nights in Santiago, where I've booked no restaurants yet, we arrive on a Saturday in La Toja.



For Saturday night: Culler de Pau.
Sunday night; D'Berto (I know, no seafood on Sundays, but we wanted to eat dinners, not lunches, so we could use the thermal baths in the daytime...)
Monday...if we love D'Berto, we can return for lunch Monday before moving on to Pontevedra Parador. (Yeah, seafood on Tuesdays..I know..)
Monday night ?????
Tuesday night: Eirado de Lena

ON another subject, I read recently that you liked a restaurant in Retiro, in Madrid, that serves dinners on Sunday nights. Unfortunately didi not take note of the name..do you remember??
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Old Apr 5th, 2024, 11:53 AM
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Although google says it's open on Mondays, no, Eirado de Leña isn't bookable on Mondays on its web site. Google is sometimes flat out wrong.

It's no seafood on Mondays because the fishermen don't go out on Sundays but remember that Rafa in Madrid is wide open on Sundays for lunch, where I've had a very memorable seafood centric meal.

Monday night in Pontevedra while staying at the Parador?
I was going to say the new Churrasquería Varela by Michelin starred Pepe Vieira, BUT it's only open on Mondays for lunch from 1:30-4.
So...Let's see...Retiro on a Sunday night...It must have been KULTO on Calle Ibiza in the Ibiza barrio of the Retiro district, whose owners are from Zahara de los Atunes and used to have the restaurant Trastero there. It specializes in atún rojo de almadraba. Retiro on a Sunday night is tough, since Rafa changed its Sunday hours.

La Montería, which we love, is open on Monday nights but NOT Sundays.
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Old Apr 6th, 2024, 07:48 AM
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Another Monday option for Pontevedra, GUMER, a vinoteca. serving fusion but with a Galician base. Repsol recommended. I haven't been.
https://gumer.es
https://www.guiarepsol.com/es/fichas.../gumer-332686/
https://www.vanitatis.elconfidencial...vedra_3592568/
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Old Apr 7th, 2024, 11:21 AM
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Maribel, thanks so much!

Yes, it was KULTO that I remembered you had mentioned. Should I put it on my list for Sunday nights in the city?

I'm now up to booking the Santiago restaurants for the three nights we will be there, thankfully no Sundays or Mondays.....so will return to your tips....
Poor Partner J....D'Berto has two meat dishes on their menu and I did request, on the Culler de Pau booking form, that whenever possible they should avoid serving him any raw fish or shellfish..I certainly could not request meat-only!!! I always give thanks that is he so flexible about restaurants....but for now I've kept to myself the anticipation of percebes, angulas, pulpo, and all the rest....!!

Ok, now to read about food in Santiago (I know which cake I want....every night and as daytime snack..my favorite, born in Santiago! (Although I do like the version in the Pays Basque, with the cherry preserves in the middle, if I remember correctly..)

And to finish up the ongoing Andalucia/Madrid report....the reports always take me longer to finish than the trip itself..

TABERNA DE LINO sounds just like my type of place...I'd love to get out into the countryside and the food would make us both happy. But unfortunately, my only option would be the long drive from La Toja to Sunday lunch, and then back to Pontevedra, so I guess I'll have to leave that for another trip. This trip was so hastily planned that I realize that I gave very short shrift to Galicia, mainly because of that once-a-week direct flight from Santiago to Lanzarote. But always good to get a nice overview and plan a return visit..I've only been to that area one two VERY brief stays, both in Santiago only and both years ago..

Here is my long list for Santiago; I have to cut a few, though:

2.0 Abastos. (sit at bar or at table???). This might be good for lunch our first day, a Wednesday, after arrival from NYC-MAD-Santiago.
A Tafona
Cafe de Altamira
Pampin


Any and all comments welcome..I'll look them over this afternoon, online..would like to book Abastos 2.0 as soon as possible but not sure about bar vs restaurant tables....AIA know there is one long communal table but cannot tell if this ice the seating for the bar or the restaurant. While I like the idea of chatting with other diners, I'm afraid that the seating might be cramped, especially for my partner, who likes to sit with no one on his left, if possible. (Left handed with impaired use of left arm as well)

Last edited by ekscrunchy; Apr 7th, 2024 at 12:13 PM.
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Old Apr 7th, 2024, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by ekscrunchy
Maribel, thanks so much!

Yes, it was KULTO that I remembered you had mentioned. Should I put it on my list for Sunday nights in the city?

I'm now up to booking the Santiago restaurants for the three nights we will be there, thankfully no Sundays or Mondays.....so will return to your tips....
Poor Partner J....D'Berto has two meat dishes on their menu and I did request, on the Culler de Pau booking form, that whenever possible they should avoid serving him any raw fish or shellfish..I certainly could not request meat-only!!! I always give thanks that is he so flexible about restaurants....but for now I've kept to myself the anticipation of percebes, angulas, pulpo, and all the rest....!!

Ok, now to read about food in Santiago (I know which cake I want....every night and as daytime snack..my favorite, born in Santiago! (Although I do like the version in the Pays Basque, with the cherry preserves in the middle, if I remember correctly..)

And to finish up the ongoing Andalucia/Madrid report....the reports always take me longer to finish than the trip itself..

TABERNA DE LINO sounds just like my type of place...I'd love to get out into the countryside and the food would make us both happy. But unfortunately, my only option would be the long drive from La Toja to Sunday lunch, and then back to Pontevedra, so I guess I'll have to leave that for another trip. This trip was so hastily planned that I realize that I gave very short shrift to Galicia, mainly because of that once-a-week direct flight from Santiago to Lanzarote. But always good to get a nice overview and plan a return visit..I've only been to that area one two VERY brief stays, both in Santiago only and both years ago..

Here is my long list for Santiago; I have to cut a few, though:

2.0 Abastos. (sit at bar or at table???). This might be good for lunch our first day, a Wednesday, after arrival from NYC-MAD-Santiago.
A Tafona
Pampin


Any and all comments welcome..I'll look them over this afternoon, online..would like to book Abastos 2.0 as soon as possible but not sure about bar vs restaurant tables....AIA know there is one long communal table but cannot tell if this ice the seating for the bar or the restaurant. While I like the idea of chatting with other diners, I'm afraid that the seating might be cramped, especially for my partner, who likes to sit with no one on his left, if possible. (Left handed with impaired use of left arm as well)


I added ASADOR GONZABA to the mix, because it is a meat restaurant, with various cuts of Galician beef as well as lechazo (the lamb for two, only). Walk from hotel.

https://www.carta360.com/AsadorGonza.../?A=NO&I=0&V=1


And:

ANACO

SIMPAR (sounds great but I could not find much information; one Repsol "sun")

O'PAZO in Padron. (This is an outlier for us; it is very expensive, tasting menu, located in Padron, the pepper capital.). Maribel, if you've been to Padron, is it an interesting town that would meet the drive from Santiago?)


Of course there are far too many restaurants than days for us, even if we ate three meals a day!!!!

Main thing right now is to decide where to request seating at Abastos 2.0...

Last edited by ekscrunchy; Apr 7th, 2024 at 12:49 PM.
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Old Apr 7th, 2024, 11:25 PM
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HI eks,
As usual for you and for me, we always have far too many restaurants than days! It killed me to cull my Córdoba list down to 5, as I had 3 more that I wanted to try (since I blew that reservation at Noor).

We go to KULTO on Sunday nights, but the downstairs bar gets a bit zoo like, as it's one of the few Retiro places open on Sunday nights. I do like their almadraba dishes, but my minor quibble with them is that they're very small and too small to be shared. The upstairs dining room would offer a more relaxing experience.
Another little Retiro area bistrot that we've enjoyed on Sunday nights is EL TALGO BAR on Sainz de Baranda. The service is very friendly and the overall experience pleasant, but no fireworks. It's a tapas/small plates place to enjoy a good picoteo.
https://www.larazon.es/madrid/202202...xuvuxcy7a.html


Tarta De Santiago----a dry almond cake (eggs, sugar, almond, lemon), dusted with powdered sugar and with the St. James sword stenciled on top
https://www.carolinescooking.com/tarta-de-santiago/

Gâteau Basque---heavenly, filled with either black cherry jam from Itxassou or pastry cream, with the Basque cross, the Lauburu cut into the top. (I bought the cake tin at the Gâteau Basque museum in Sare and the Lauburu cookie cutter from the Basque Museum in Boise).
https://spanishsabores.com/gateau-ba...y-basque-cake/

Now...Santiago
2.0 in the Mercado de Abastos for lunch--better book a table for your partner
A Tafona for dinner with rezzies made far in advance
Pampín Bar
Café de Altamira
Asador Gonzaba
These are keepers but you'll probably want to choose between Asador de Gonzaga for meats for your partner and Café de Altamira, if you can't fit in all 5, since both have meat options! The chef of Pampín Bar spent 3 years with Paco Morales in his now closed Bocairent restaurant.

Yes, I´ve been to and dined in Padrón, but you have so many great options in Santiago, I honestly wouldn't bother.


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Old Apr 8th, 2024, 12:59 AM
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Originally Posted by TomAvella
La Toja is a must if you are around the area. Is a spa hotel for absolute relaxation.
Yes, and next to It you have the town of O'Grove where I tried one of the best seafood in my life.

Last edited by JeanLui; Apr 8th, 2024 at 01:03 AM. Reason: misread that the OP will be in O'grove
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Old Apr 8th, 2024, 01:01 AM
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ekscrunchy, the OP, is headed to O'Grove for a stay and several meals.
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Old Apr 8th, 2024, 06:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Maribel
ekscrunchy, the OP, is headed to O'Grove for a stay and several meals.

Thank you, Jean Luis...What was the name of the restaurant: ASADOR D'BERTO??

Maribel, thank you SO much. I spent all afternoon looking into the restaurants in Santiago so of course am still stuck in Barbate on the ongoing report!!!!

At Abastos2.0, is the long table shown shown, below, in the bar area?


Interesting that Michelin lists the Bar and the Restaurant as two separate entities....

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Old Apr 8th, 2024, 06:23 AM
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Yes, the long table, mesa corrida, is in the bar area, if memory serves. Abastos 2.0 began in 2010 as a bar in the market then it grew and needed more space and morphed into a sit down restaurant.

As far as bar seating is concerned, it does get crowded, very crowded. So it may be uncomfortable for your partner.
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Old Apr 8th, 2024, 06:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Maribel
Yes, the long table, mesa corrida, is in the bar area, if memory serves. Abastos 2.0 began in 2010 as a bar in the market then it grew and needed more space and morphed into a sit down restaurant.

As far as bar seating is concerned, it does get crowded, very crowded. So it may be uncomfortable for your partner.
Thanks, Maribel!! Just booked A TAFONA for dinner on our last (of three) nights there. There was an option to decide one which tasting menu once you arrive, so I chose that but from looking at both menus, I think the longer one is the one to choose.
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