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A Week In Athens - Trip Report

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A Week In Athens - Trip Report

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Old May 6th, 2016, 09:06 AM
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A Week In Athens - Trip Report

I have to go somewhere so I'm posting this without editing. I hope there's not too many mistakes.

Brief Trip Report
When my wife told me late March, that she had a week off in late April I promptly got on Google Flights to see where we could fly relatively cheaply. I considered going to Dublin, Quito, Stockholm or Athens. The flights to Athens had the shortest layovers and fell on good days, so Athens it was.

Hotel
Looked for a decent hotel around 100 Euros, narrowed it down to Athens Cypria and Attalos before picking Cypria. I took an acropolis view room and breakfast included and after a couple of discounts the room came to 91 Euros a night.

We were very pleased with the hotel. It’s in an excellent location between Syntagma and Monastriaki just off Ermou. The room had a balcony and being on the corner I had a nice open view. Looking up over the rooftops, I could see the Acropolis. The only thing I didn’t like about the room was the furniture arrangement could be better designed; there was only one drawer and one closet for clothes. There was a desk with a drawer and the end tables had drawers. There were no stands for the suitcases. The beds were a little small and hard, but that didn’t bother me. The wifi wasn’t the greatest unless in the lobby, but I think most hotels have that issue. There was a renovation going on, but I couldn’t hear it at all and we were out all day anyway.

The breakfast buffet was great. It had almost anything you could think of including eggs, bacon, sausage, potatos, grilled vegetables, fresh tomatos and cucumbers, cereals, a big pan of greek yogurt, canned peaches, honey, halvah, whole wheat rolls, fish, juices, coffee and more.
When I saw the location of the Attalos, I was glad I chose the Cypria.

Sightseeing
We basically had 6 full days plus the evening of arrival. We spent 4 days seeing Athens , 1 day trip to Hydra and 1 day trip to Delphi/Galaxadi.

In Athens we did all of the main things Acropolis and Acropolis Museum, National Archeological Museum, Cycladic Museum, National Gardens, Walk through Kolonaki and up Lycabetus Hill, Ermou St, Monastriaki Square, Plaka, Anafioteca, Acropolis Promenade, Adrianou Street, Pandrousso Street, Monastriaki Flea Markets ( I bought a brass fist door knocker.)

The trip to Hydra was a definite highlight. We took the 8 am boat and got a 6 pm boat back. That gave us enough time to walk the high road to Kaminia, have lunch, walk up the cliff trail for some spectacular views then walk back to Hydra town on the low road with more great views, then hang out a little in Hydra town.

Shopping
I steered my wife away from shopping, but I did take her to the Poet Sandal Maker for a pair of sandals. Other than that and the brass door knocker, we bought a couple of bottles of Ouzo with a nice bottle that looked like a Greek Column, a couple of nice tee shirts for me in Hydra with a Cycladic Figurine picture on the front. I bought a CD of Greek Music for my dad. I also got a free CD from a bouzouki player on Ermou St. I bought a box of pick your own chocolates for mom from a great sweet store that was on the corner of Ermou and Diomias right next to my hotel. I bought a couple of kids tee shirts and small boxes of pre-packaged baklava and lokum to give away.

Snacking
I also went to that sweet store, mentioned above, a few times for snacks of chocolate, cashews, dates. I bought some fresh baklava from a nearby bakery on Nikis street. We bought some Naxos cheese (kind of like pecorino) at a street market which I used to make a sandwich on my departure morning. I wish I bought a big hunk of cheese to take home, but I wasn’t sure if it would be allowed back into the U.S.

We hit up Ariston a couple of times for some awesome hand held spinach/eggplant/zucchini phyllo pies. I went once to Thanassis for a couple of chicken souvlakis. At 2.20 each that’s a great deal. I also tried a couple of chicken gyros from another place that starts with a B. We liked Thanassis better. We also had chicken souvlaki in Delphi. I took it out and we ate it sitting on a bench with a great mountain and valley view. One night in Athens we took a special trip to Stanis for their famous rice pudding, my wife and I each had a plateful which was too much.

We also had a nice chocolate cake with ice cream at the Acropolis museum. We tried gelato one night at La Greche, but the workers had a very bad attitude which made their mediocre ice cream taste all the worst.

Eating
Restaurants we ate at in Athens, mostly gotten from the Matt Barrett Guide. Diodos, Paradosiako Cafeneion, Epirus, Mani Mani. They were all good.

At Mani Mani, I didn’t care too much for the Peloponnese food but my wife really liked it. It was the first time I ate rooster. The place did have nice atmosphere. The music they were playing, was driving me crazy, all slow vocal jazz versions of famous rock tunes that I grew up on. Imagine Creedence Clearwater being sung as a slow jazz tune. I asked them to change it, something I’ve never done, but they didn’t listen.

At Epirus we had kokoretsi (goat ofal wrapped in intestines), goat soup, and a fish roe dip (tasted to me a little like lox flavor). It all tasted great, probably our first or second favorite meal. We almost didn’t make it there, however. It was the end of the day before Easter. When we got to the central market, we had to pass the all the butcher stands , as they were cleaning up. What a mess. I had to cajole my wife to follow me as I knew I was headed to Epirus which I wanted to try. She was ready to turn around but when we had that great meal she was happy she didn’t. The waitress there is also extremely nice.

Paradosiako Cafeneion served us some huge pieces of Mousaka, we really liked the food and the prices.

Kodylenia (Hydra Island) had a terrace with a beautiful view of the town, the sea and harbor. We sat down there and had some ouzo and the waitress showed me the menu. I thought I ordered a salad with all kinds of seafood to start. We drank our drinks and relaxed on the terrace waiting for the salad, moving around taking pictures so it was very nice. After about 45 minutes, we were wondering why the salad hadn’t come. It turns out the woman didn’t realize that I had ordered. So once we got that straightened out the salad along with some other dishes, we then ordered showed up very fast. I love how they just let you sit around and relax with your drink before eating. We ordered octopus which I never had and tender roast lamb with potatoes, lemon tart for dessert. It was all delicious and very reasonably priced.

In Galaxadi, we ate at one of the little tavernas along the harbor. I don’t remember the name but they grilled us up a whole sea bass and served it with salad wine and tzatziki. It was very good.

Thanassis, aside from the takeout souvlaki, we also sat down one night for souvlaki platter and stuffed tomato.

Nightlife
We were too tired after sightseeing for much nightlife but we did go out one night looking for some. I looked for this place something Pokili which was reported to have Greek music but when we got there they were playing some modern music so we didn’t stay. They did have a very interestingly decorated entryway. From there we went over to six dogs for some fancy cocktails that cost about half what they would cost in NYC. The bartender was very nice, but my wife told me later that he had terrible bad breath. As it turned out, the only live Greek Music I got to listen all week was on the last night while everyone was at Easter Midnight Mass I was entertained by a solo bouzouki player on Ermou St outside my hotel. I chatted with him a bit and he gave me a free CD. That was just before we caught a 3am bus to the airport, my wife was sleeping, I couldn’t sleep.

Miscellaneous Stories

When we planned to go to Delphi, I was going to rent a car from Sixt. Luckily I stopped in there a few days before and found out they couldn’t get me a GPS. I was going to rent anyway from them but then decided at the last minute that there was no way I was going to try to find my way out of Athens without one. I canceled from them and made a reservation with Avis. On Friday morning when I went to Avis, luckily I went ahead of my wife and told her to meet me there. I didn’t know to bring my passport, but luckily my wife was still at the hotel and I had the Avis clerk call her to bring it.

Driving out of Athens on Good Friday morning with a GPS was a total breeze. Driving to Delphi was surprisingly beautiful; I’m ashamed to admit that I didn’t know that Greece is so mountainous. The drive to and from Galaxadi after Delphi was also interesting, what with the constant switchbacks through the mountains, with great views along the way and the beautiful flowers along the road.

When we were in Delphi and I wanted to stop to buy souvlaki, I didn’t see any parking spot, so I double parked thinking there was enough room for cars to get by. I left my wife in the car but she can’t drive a stick shift. I went and ordered the souvlaki then while waiting I went into a hotel next door to ask about Galaxidi. As I’m talking to the girl I start hearing a beeping noise. I ignored it at first but then I thought I better get outside. I look up the road to where I left the car and there’s a big tour bus stuck behind me. My wife is frantic and she said she was about to try to drive the stick shift car, which I know would have been a disaster. I apologized to the bus driver as I got into the car to move it, he gave me a big honk to show his displeasure.

When we got back to Athens about 11:30 PM, it was too late to return the car so I thought I would have to pay for parking, but as we got near the hotel, after making many turns as per the GPS, I saw lots of street parking so I took one. It was a little harrowing trying to back park on the left side on a very narrow street I was so worried I would hit the car on the other side of the road. The taxi that I was holding up while I was parking gave me a head shake as he finally got to pass. I asked someone to translate the sign thinking I was going to have to move anyway, but he said the sign said pay parking from 9 AM until I think it was 8PM, so I was able to leave the car there until morning, and then return it to Avis.

On the drive back to Athens I was feeling sleepy and wanted to get some coffee. I pulled into a gas station where the young attendants spoke not a word of English. He indicated to me that he didn’t have coffee only frappe. I knew he meant Nescafe, so I thought why not. He got the package and a bottle of cold water and was going to mix it up. I asked him if he had hot water as hot coffee was what I had in mind. He looked at me with a puzzled look and then he ran into the back and came back with, not hot water, but bottle of unrefrigerated water.

When I read Rick Steves, he mentioned that metro line that runs to Piraeus is rampant with pick pockets. Sure enough when we took the train from the Archeological museum we stupidly stood near the door and soon were surrounded by some passengers who kept moving around squeezing me and separating me from my wife. I had my wallet in my front pocket and kept my hand on it and I kept my other hand on my camera which was dangling around my neck. We got off at the next stop and my wife told me one of the guys tried to reach into her bag but she kept it closed with her hand so he couldn’t. She also told me she saw one of the guys feeling my back pocket. They didn’t get anything from these New Yorkers, LOL.
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Old May 6th, 2016, 09:28 AM
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Thank you for your report. It is always a pleasure to read of other peoples experiences. Good stuff on the pick pocket attempts. Everyone must understand that tourists are targets and we must take appropriate precautions.
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Old May 6th, 2016, 10:03 AM
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Hotel Cypria is where I usually stay when in Athens. They have three categories of rooms: standard, superior, and luxury. First time I stayed there I booked a superior room, and at check in was upgraded to luxury at no extra charge. The room had a separate sitting area, and a <i>huge</i> bathroom.

You need to go to the lobby for good wifi reception, but at least it's free, unlike the airport Sofitel. I agree about the breakfast buffet.
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Old May 6th, 2016, 06:01 PM
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stanbr - Thanks for reading my report. It's a shame on the Greek Police that they can't stop the pickpockets, who go about their thieving ways so casually like it's their every day job. How about some decoys like the NYC Transit Police use.

Heimdall- I think my room was a standard but I believe it was the best location in hotel, top floor corner with a balcony closest to the Parthenon. The tub in the bathroom, however, was so narrow it was somewhat uncomfortable for my feet. Not sure if that is a typical bathtub in Greek hotels. It was room 607 if anyone is interested. I think I got it because I requested a room on a high floor away from the elevator.

One other thing that we did, that I forgot to mention, was having a drink one night, on the top floor terrace of the Grand Bretagne, with a view of the Parthenon. The lobby of the hotel, also, was very swanky.
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Old May 6th, 2016, 06:39 PM
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Governator, once in awhile Athens police swoop down on the pickpockets & round up a whole bunch, almost all are not greek... I remember a news story about 2011 they had rounded up a ring of 69 pickpockets, 68 were illegal immigrant Albanians (Albania has been desperately poor for decades, and the border w, Greece all mountains, impossible to patrol).

Actually, I saw a thread on another forum in which an Athenian reported some findings re pickpockets. Mainly in Athens, 3 main spots, Metro going FROM airport to Syntagma, Metro coming in from Piraeus, and Syntagma Square during changing of Guard. All places where lots of tourism, crowds, distraction. And on those Metro routes, tourists will be carrying money, also many US foreigners are "public transit virgins." not accustomed to transport in crowds Also at least from police reports apparently 75% or so of victims are men. Despite warnings they insist on keeping their wallets in their pockets!
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Old May 6th, 2016, 07:42 PM
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Habits are hard to break. I had to keep reminding myself to move my wallet to my front pocket. It's important to move away from the doors to the middle of the car, as well.

Swooping in once in while is not enough when pick pocketing is so prevalent it's even mentioned in the guidebook.
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Old May 6th, 2016, 08:56 PM
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Gas station guy had this in mind, very popular here:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frapp%C3%A9_coffee
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Old May 6th, 2016, 09:47 PM
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Mariha, Yes, I noticed it's all the rage there. Thanks for the back story on it.

I just thought it was funny when I asked for hot water, he paused for a minute thinking then ran to the back and emerged with a bottle of room temperature water.

He must have been thinking why does this crazy guy want a warm frappe. Being as I couldn't communicate with him I let him mix it for me and I took it. One sip in my car and of course I couldn't drink it.
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Old May 6th, 2016, 10:40 PM
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For others reading this report: forget about putting your wallet in the front pocket - the pickpockets will get it there too. These guys are really good! The only safe place is either in a money belt or stuffed down the middle of a bag. It helps if your bag can be secured by a small luggage padlock. Carry only loose change and small bills in your pockets.
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Old May 7th, 2016, 01:47 AM
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What about wallet in front pocket and hand stuffed in pocket when the jostling starts. That's what saved mine.

Also do you think it's bad to wear camera around neck. Are they so bold to forcefully take it off your neck and create a ruckus?

I had one hand on the wallet and one on the camera and that worked for me.

My wife was also wearing a diamond ring, but she turns it around so it's not visible when on the train.
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Old May 7th, 2016, 02:01 AM
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I just thought of another funny story on the trip. We had bought a 4 pack of Mythos and had one can left over when we checked out. I took it with me to the airport. It was about 4am at the airport and we got some coffee to go with the egg, bread and cheese that I also had left from the trip. After finishing the coffee and being as my mental time was a mess anyway, I opened the beer and poured it into my empty coffee cup. I could hear the guy at the next table whispering to his wife, "hey that guy is putting beer in his coffee".
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Old May 7th, 2016, 03:49 AM
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Usually the pickpockets are so subtle you don't even notice until after the fact. I had my passport in the front pocket (yes, I should have known better) last September, and it meant missing my Saturday flight and waiting to get a replacement until the embassy opened on Monday. When I was at the embassy, most of the others waiting in line had their passports stolen by pickpockets, one from a lady's handbag.

Stuffing your hand in the pocket would help unless your hands are occupied carrying luggage, which is what happened to me. Usually the pickpockets strike when you are most vulnerable, such as when getting on/off the bus or metro. They know all the tricks. Fortunately my wallet and credit cards were in a secure pocket inside my day pack.

Safest thing of all is to take a taxi, or just walk when you are in the Plaka/Acropolis area. I usually leave my passport in the hotel room safe, but was on my way to the airport so had it in my front pocket.
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Old May 7th, 2016, 07:54 PM
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Does nothing else in the report deserve attention? Did any of my stories amuse you?
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Old May 7th, 2016, 08:59 PM
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I am utterly fed up with all those visitors who park wherever and always cause a traffic jam here in Delphi. They seem to think roads are used only by tiny cars and motorbikes or they simply do not think at all and park wherever they find convenient in order to ask for information, load/upload luggages/have a meal, be close to their hotel and so on.... Amused in a bad way on that one.

Other than that, I am amused on the way people tend to follow Matt Barrett's suggestions for restaurants and the like, usually skipping the less familar choices though. I am glad that you made it to Epirus and tried foods like kokoretsi, not many people do this...
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Old May 7th, 2016, 11:08 PM
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Delphi town is a tough one for driving/parking etc. It took us a few rounds to find our inn on the main street, Pithos Rooms, and we ended up parking up a flight of stone steps and carrying the bags down.

We were in Athens, Delphi, and Nafplio 3rd week of this past March and it was fun reliving some of the experience through this report.
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Old May 8th, 2016, 05:34 AM
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Now that's more like it.

It's true what they say about the wild drivers in Greece. From those crossing the solid line to pass on mountain roads to the two motorcyclists who drove up on the sidewalk on Ermou to get past traffic.

Me however I was too timid to park half up on the sidewalk. It didn't occur to me, though it should have, that a bus was gonna come down that road. LOL
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Old May 8th, 2016, 05:57 AM
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While the Matt Barrett choices were all solid, we really enjoyed the slightly crisp Mousaka we had at some random taverna we ate lunch at one day. I wish I noted the name; it was on Poulopoulou next to the train tracks after making a right from Pavlou.

Epirus was one of the trip highlights for sure. I was glad we pressed on past the messy street of the butcher market to get there. I was telling my friends, last night, how good was the kokoretsi and the taramasalata.
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Old May 8th, 2016, 06:19 AM
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annw, thanks for the comment. After taking the effort to write a trip report it's nice to know that someone read it, LOL.
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Old May 8th, 2016, 06:51 AM
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The goat carcasses hanging at the central market reminded me of the time, about 30 years ago, when my, then, brother-in-law, a recent Greek immigrant, at the time, brought over to my suburban Long Island house, a goat . He and his friend dug a pit in my backyard and cooked it on a spit, with my advance permission of course. That was a memorable experience!

When I was in Greece last week, every time I heard a man speaking, the accent reminded me of him, LOL. The Greek accent is a very distinctive one.
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Old May 8th, 2016, 12:07 PM
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Lots of people read and just don't comment; also, when readers are planning their trips they often call up trip reports; I'm sure yours will get plenty of play as time goes on --

How was the weather when you were in Delphi?
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