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A trip report of twelve magical days in Ireland

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A trip report of twelve magical days in Ireland

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Old Sep 10th, 2007, 02:09 PM
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A trip report of twelve magical days in Ireland

Let me first start by thanking all who gave such helpful advice and suggestions when planning our trip of a lifetime to southwest Ireland this past June. Fodors and those that contribute have been a wealth of knowledge and the means to planning many of our vacations. How did we ever get along without Fodors? It has been a few months since we were in Ireland but we find ourselves reliving it more and more as time goes by.

Our trip consisted of 12 magnificent days, 1200 miles and near perfect weather with stops in Doolin, Kenmare, Dingle, Clogheen and an overnight in Bunratty for easy access to the airport the night before we departed. The trip was just perfect for us; however some who don’t like too much driving may find it too aggressive. It wasn’t the “green blur” that we were cautioned about.

Day 1: We arrived to rain which we partly expected, after all it is Ireland. However this would be the last of the rain we would see. It was an overnight flight from the east coast that landed in Shannon at around 9:30 AM. Customs was a breeze. We booked our rental car through Hertz and were surprised to find the car right outside the main doors of the airport just across the sidewalk. We are Gold members with Hertz so that may have helped.

After just a few “stay left” reminders we set off for the Cliffs of Moher since it would be too early to check in to our accommodations in Doolin. The rain picked up while there so we didn’t stay too long. It was a short drive to Doolin and the Ballinalacken Castle hotel. http://www.ballinalackencastle.com/ We reserved room 16 thanks to some advice from a friend. It was a lovely room that had wonderful views of the Atlantic and Cliffs of Moher in the distance. We thought we would take a short nap but ended up waking up just in time to make our dinner reservations at the hotel. All refreshed and ready to spend our first night in magical Ireland we drove to O’Connor’s pub after dinner and heard some of the best authentic music of our trip.

Day 2: We awoke to blue skies and lovely weather. Had breakfast at the hotel and set off for the Aran Islands. We picked up the ferry in Doolin which was about a 10 minute drive from the Ballinalacken Castle hotel. We purchased tickets for the 10 AM ferry to Inis Moir, the largest of the Islands. When you get off the ferry on the Island you see vans and jaunty carts offering tours of the Island. We, like many others opted to rent bikes that you will see close to the pier. It was about a 10 mile ride out to the world heritage site of Dun Aonghasa Fort which stands over a dramatic 300 foot cliff with breathtaking views of the Atlantic.

The views and time spent there were just surreal. We could have just sat there for hours gazing out into the Atlantic. We took the road back along the other side of the island and saw seals basking in the sun. It was a great way to get a feel for this remarkable island. We got back to the pier in time for the 4 pm ferry back to Doolin. This day turned out to be one of many highlights of the trip. If you get the opportunity to visit the Aran Islands we would highly recommend it.

We enjoyed ourselves so much at O’Connor’s the night before that we went back, this time for dinner after we got off of the ferry. Once again we were treated to some great music while we enjoyed some authentic pub grub. By the time we left the place was packed. It was still light out at 9PM so we took a ride up through the Burren in hopes of finding the Poulnabrone Dolman. As luck would have it we did. As we parked and walked towards this spectacular site the sun was beginning to set. Walking towards the site we thought we were the only ones there but spotted two photographers sitting on the ground waiting for just the right lighting to get the perfect shot. We were fortunate to be there at just the right time to do the same.

Day 3: The owners of Ballinalaken Castle hotel offered tours of the castle that sits right behind the hotel to those checking out. It was our first up close look at a castle. Afterwards we left Doolin having had a wonderful first few days and headed for Kenmare via the Kilmer/Tarbert Ferry. We stopped at the Clare Jam store and picked up some jam to take home. (Another tip I read on Fodors) This was our longest one day drive that took us about 4 hours. We found the route to the ferry to be well marked. Taking the ferry was a welcome break to get out and stretch our legs and enjoy the view. It saved us about 45 minutes of driving.

We stopped for lunch in Killarney on our way to Kenmare and walked around town. Killarney is a nice town but larger than we had wanted to stay in. There is a Blarney Woolen Mills outlet that is worth a visit. After enjoying the sites in and around town we were off to Kenmare to stay at the Shelbourne Lodge http://www.shelburnelodge.com/, the oldest house in Kenmare.

After settling into our room we took the short walk into town. It was getting late so we had a bite to eat in one of the pubs and stopped into a few others for another pint and listen to music. Foley’s was packed as its patrons of all ages listened to a folk singer.

Day 4: Another gorgeous day. Breakfast at the Shelbourne was a little slow but well worth the wait. The owner is a very sweet gentleman. There is a stone circle just outside of Kenmare that we stopped to see before heading out on the Beara Peninsula and the breathtaking Healy Pass.

We were just about ready to head out on to the Healy Pass when we pulled off the side of the road to take a photo, hit a pothole and got a flat tire. The spare was fine, but knowing how easy it was to get the first flat we didn’t want to go too far without a spare. The Healy Pass was simply breathtaking. We pulled off the road often to take more pictures all the while making sure we didn’t hit anymore potholes. We found ourselves in the town of Castletownbere which is one of Ireland’s largest fishing ports where we stopped for lunch, a new spare tire and a stroll around town.

We continued on the Beara Peninsula and made our way to Glengarrif. We stopped for a pint at one of the pubs and strolled though the shops. It was getting late in the day so we decided to head back to Kenmare rather than venture future on to Bantry. The roads along N71 from Glengariff to Kenmare are very winding so we were glad to make it back before dark. We had a nice dinner that night at O’Donnabhain in Kenmare. After dinner we stopped in a few different pubs and listed to some more music before heading back to the Shelbourne.

Day 5: Having had a full two days in Kenmare we were off to Inch on the Dingle Peninsula. In case you are wondering why we went from Doolin to Kenmare and then back to Dingle, we had originally planned to visit Galway after Doolin and then south to Dingle but changed our minds and couldn’t adjust our reservations. Looking back we were so glad we did as we thoroughly enjoyed our time in Kenmare and the Healy Pass was not to be missed.

We weren’t sure if we would get to drive the entire ROK and met a local in Kenmare that gave us some advice on how to see part of it on our way to Dingle that worked out well. From Kenmare we drove the Ring as far as the town of Sneem. The views along the ROK were nice, but we much prefer the Ring of Beara, less traffic and better scenery. Sneem is a tourist bus stop and they all arrived shortly after we did. From Sneem we took the high road to Killarney and stopped at Muckross House and Torc Falls. Muckross was another enjoyable and interesting tour we thoroughly enjoyed.

It was around 8PM when we arrived in Inch and the House of Four Angels. http://houseoffourangels.com/ Dudley Morgan, the owner of this quaint B&B is a really exceptional host. He goes out of his way to make you feel as though you are at home. This lovely B & B sits high on a hill overlooking Inch beach on the Dingle Peninsula with exceptional views of the coast. It is about a half hour drive to the town of Dingle. We ate a late dinner in the only pub in Inch that had good food but lacked atmosphere.

Day 6: We decided to have Dudley, who offers very informative and reasonably price tours of Dingle lead the way this day. It was a real treat to be driven around and get a first hand viewpoint and hear the historical facts about the area. We saw things we never would have found on our own. We went to the cliffs in Dingle and saw the tour boats out looking for Fungi the local dolphin. We visited Minard Castle, a holy well, Gallarus Oratory and drove the Slea Head drive. It was amusing to see tour buses dropping its tourists off where they had to pay to visit the Gallarus Oratory, while Dudley took us around the corner to another clearly marked entrance that the locals use where you can enter without being charged. That night we drove ourselves into Dingle for dinner and enjoyed the great music at The Small Bridge.

Day 7: Our outstanding weather continued and we were off to visit Skellig Michael. Dudley knew one of the ship captains that made the daily voyage to the Skelligs and called and made reservations for us the night before. The boats leave from Portmagee, which is about a 1½ hour drive from Inch on the ROK. This was our opportunity to drive the other half of the ROK early enough so we wouldn’t hit the tour bus traffic. We still agree the Ring of Beara is a much more scenic ride.

The boat trip out to Skellig Michael takes about an hour. Skellig Michael simply stated is incredible. As you ascend the 800+ stone steps (with no railings mind you) to the top you are greeted by puffins, unique birds that look too perfect to be real. Once at the top you feel as though you are back in time as you view the amazing beehive huts built in 600AD.

On our way back Dudley had given us directions to visit the town of Caherciveen and suggested we tour Ballycarbery Castle and Cahergall Fort. Both are fairly close together and interesting sites to see. We were the only ones there and took our time exploring these unique sites.

Day 8: We said our goodbye’s to Dudley on another picture perfect day and headed east to our next much anticipated stop, the town of Clogheen. We choose Clogheen for its central location to the rest of the places we had hoped to visit. Our route took us back through Killarney once again. We didn’t have time to take in Ross Castle the first time through so we did so on our way to Clogheen. After Ross Castle we drove though Blarney and stopped for lunch at the Blarney Hotel and then off to kiss the infamous stone. We were amazed at how few people were there when we got to the top of the castle. After a tour of the castle and the grounds we were off to Clogheen and The Old Convent http://www.theoldconvent.ie/ . This would be or finest and most memorable accommodations of our trip.

The Old Convent is just that, an old convent turned into a gourmet hideaway. The Old Convent is well known to the locals as a weekend getaway and was booked solid the first two nights we were there. We found it to be a great base for touring beautiful County Tipperary: Cahir Castle (15km); The Swiss Cottage (17km); The Rock of Cashel (32km); Lismore Castle (23 km); The Vee (4km); Mitchelstown Caves (11km); The Waterford Crystal Factory (70km). It is owned by a young couple who have done an amazing job of transforming it into the romantic getaway that it is. They offer an 8 course gourmet tastings dinner Thursday thru Sunday. We had dinner there the night we arrived and it was a real treat. Dermot, one of the owners is a wonderful chef. His wife Christine, (an American) has paid attention to every detail.

Day 9: After a delicious breakfast we headed out. We stopped at a church for Sunday mass in a little town just outside of Clogheen and then headed off to the Rock of Cashel and Hore Abbey. Rock of Cashel is a must. What an impressive site. Afterwards we headed to Waterford to tour the Crystal factory. Our ride back brought us through the Vee and the Knockmealdown mountains with its spectacular views of the countless rhododendrons in full bloom.

Day 10: Dublin was on our agenda for this day but we chose Kinsale instead on the suggestion of our hosts. The drive though Cork proved challenging however once through it you arrive in Kinsale, a real quaint town. We did most of our shopping in the gift shops in Kinsale as we knew we were coming to the end of our trip.

When we arrived back to the Old Convent our hosts, who don’t serve dinner on Monday’s offered to make us a private meal as we were their only guests that night. The locals who filled the place on the weekend had all gone back to work. We had a very romantic dinner for two in the drawing room by the fireplace. They went out of their way to make it a very special evening that we will always remember. I can’t say enough about our stay at the Old Convent. It opened just over a year ago and by the looks of the weekend crowd, is turning into a very popular getaway. It was truly an amazing experience that we feel so fortunate to stumble upon.

Day 11: We awoke to yet another beautiful day and had to sadly leave the Old Convent and its charming hosts behind. We headed for Bunratty via Cahir Castle. We took one more short drive up into the mountains to enjoy the stunning view of the rhododendrons in full bloom. The drive to Cahir castle was short. We loved this castle as it was one of the few furnished that you can actually tour on your own. We took our time and enjoyed our visit.

We didn’t arrive in Bunratty till late afternoon. We stopped for lunch at Durty Nellie’s and ate outside admiring Bunratty Castle right across the street. We then found our way to Bunratty Lodge http://www.bunrattylodge.com/. Mary Browne is a lovely host and you can’t go wrong staying with her on your way in or out of Shannon.

After settling in Mary offered to call Bunratty Castle to see if there were any reservations available for the late seating of the medieval dinner. There were so we spent our last night there enjoying the entertainment, the meal was just okay. Afterwards we took a walk over to the Creamery Pub and had one last pint before retiring back to Bunratty Lodge

Day 12: We awoke to overcast skies and light rain so we knew it was time to go home. Mary had breakfast ready for us by 7:45 so we could be to the airport in time. She was a very pleasant lady and I would highly recommend staying there if you are looking for someplace close to the airport.

We got to the airport in plenty of time to return the car, which again went real smooth. We checked our luggage and spent the remainder of our euros in the duty free shop. You could do most of your souvenir shopping right in the airport if you run out of time. Our plane left on time and we made it back to the US on schedule. The only confusion or should we say annoying thing was having to retrieve your bags at the first US layover stop and go through security again.

We had such a wonderful time in Ireland that we would love to go back someday. We doubt it could ever again be as magical as it was this time. The weather, the accommodations and the itinerary were just perfect. Thanks again for all of your suggestions and advice. If you still have time after ready this long report you can view some of our photos at:

http://community.webshots.com/album/...host=community
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im_hooked is offline  
Old Sep 10th, 2007, 03:02 PM
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im hooked, it does sound like a magical trip! And I really enjoyed looking at all your pictures. Thanks for the trip report.
Samsaf is offline  
Old Sep 10th, 2007, 03:28 PM
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your report brought back fond memories from a trip we did 6 years ago... we also loved Kenmare and I still remember a scallop dish I had two nights in a row in a restaurant there - so good! Wished a million times I remembered the restaurant and sent for the recipe.

thanks!
gruezi is offline  
Old Sep 10th, 2007, 03:50 PM
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Nice report, im_hooked! The pictures were great too. I especially liked the one "man out for a stroll in Kenmare." I don't think we'll be seeing pictures like that for much longer...
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Old Sep 10th, 2007, 05:29 PM
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Great report! And yes, another trip can be just as magical--different, but magical in its own way. I have been back many times, and each trip has been special.

Thanks!
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Old Sep 10th, 2007, 07:27 PM
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You got some beautiful shots! It's not on my short list, but your photos make me want to go. I especially loved the Kinsale boats pic.
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Old Sep 10th, 2007, 07:54 PM
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I really enjoyed your trip report. Your pictures were wonderful.
We just watched a program on Ireland and it showed Skellig Michael, it looked wonderful. I have a fear of heights so I could never climb those stairs but it looks so neat. The Blarney castle just about did me in.

I went to Ireland in the summer of 2006 and loved it and we are going back the summer of 2008. I didn't like where we stayed in Doolin so I wrote down the name of where you stayed. Thanks again for the wonderful report and pictures.
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Old Sep 10th, 2007, 08:58 PM
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Thank you so much for sharing your experiences and your photos!
djkbooks is offline  
Old Sep 10th, 2007, 10:21 PM
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im_hooked...thanks so much for taking the time to share with us your fab trip report! It has been about 13 years since I've been to Ireland and I really want to go back.

Ahh...so many countries, so little money...er, I mean time

Thanks for helping me recall those fond memories.
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Old Sep 10th, 2007, 10:36 PM
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im-hooked,

What a wonderful, wonderful report. Thanks for getting back to us and sharing your trip.

Joan
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