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A Return To Sils Maria with a Slice of Appenzell

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A Return To Sils Maria with a Slice of Appenzell

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Old Oct 16th, 2023, 11:49 AM
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A Return To Sils Maria with a Slice of Appenzell

I couldn’t stay away! In late September I returned to the wonderful Hotel Maria in Sils. I was greeted warmly by the staff who remembered my visit last year. The accommodations and the food were as excellent as ever. This year the weather was much warmer for the week of my stay. And again the free transport card from the hotel is such a great value. Some of my walks/hikes:
  • I took the gondola to Furtschellas and did the hike to the viewpoint at Marmore and then the descent to Curtins in the Fex Valley. Once I reached the valley floor I took a woodland trail to Crasta and headed to Hotel Sonne for warm chestnut cake.
  • A bus ride over the Maloja pass and got off at Stampa. Found the Via Bregaglia trail through the forest and climbed up many stone steps to Soglio. A wonderful hike on a clear sunny day, so different from my visit to Soglio last year in the cold rain. I enjoyed a delicious lunch in the garden of the Hotel Palazzo Salis (accompanied by cake of course). I then continued on the trail down many stone steps, past waterfalls, and through the chestnut forest to Castasegna. A very rewarding day.
  • Bus to St. Moritz, funicular to Corviglia, and the gondola to Piz Nair with incredible views. Descended back down to Corgivlia and for some reason I completely lost my sense of direction and headed off in the wrong direction twice and had to backtrack. Needless to say I covered a lot of the St. Moritz ski area! I finally found my way on to Via Engiadina for a fairly long but scenic walk back to Sils.
  • Bus to Silvaplana and walked a loop trail around Lej Marsch and returned on foot to Sils along the Silvaplanersee.
This area is so beautiful and there are so many options for hikes and walks. I can see myself returning again and again!

The Appenzellerland Tourist Office was offering free arrival and departure within Switzerland if you booked an Appenzell hotel for 3 days or more. So, I took them up on it and received a free bus/train ticket from Sils Maria all the way to Schwende which is a tiny village near the town of Appenzell. There are only 2 hotels and a pizzeria in the village and many, many cows and dairy farms. My brother who was traveling in Europe met me there and we stayed at the Hotel Alpenblick which was fantastic. We each had a single room with a balcony and half board. The owner is a chef and the 5 course dinners were delicious. The hotel provided a Holiday card for free transport within the region including several cable cars.
For me the hiking in this area was a bit more strenuous than the hikes I did in the Engadine.
  • Cable car to Ebenalp. This is a very popular destination for tourists who walk the short descent to the Wildkirchli caves and the famous Aescher mountain inn. I think for many this is as far as they go. We hiked to Schafler Ridge with fantastic views and a stop for pear cake at the mountaintop restaurant. On the return we took a narrow rocky trail that led back to Aescher from the opposite direction. A very crowded cable car ride back down and then a nice walk back to the hotel through green pastures. We filled an empty water bottle with fresh milk from a vending machine at a dairy farm!
  • Train to Weissbad, bus to Brulisau, and cable car to the summit of Hoher Kasten (several restaurants, viewing platform, and the start of many hiking trails). We set off towards Saxer Lucke. This was a strenuous hike for me with more ups and downs than I had anticipated but plenty of places to stop and rest. By the time we made it to the mountain restaurant at Staubern (more pear cake) it was doubtful I could continue on along the ridge and down to the Fahlensee. So, we made a very steep descent from Staubern to a plateau above the Samtisersee and a long walk back to Brulisau. A very tiring day but the views were well worth it.
  • A leisurely day walking along the river from Schwende to Appenzell and back. Yes, the town is a bit touristy but we enjoyed visiting the beautiful church, the local history museum, the craft brewery, and there was a goat show as well.
I also received a free train ticket from Schwende to Zurich Airport for my flight home.
All in all a wonderful trip. I really love Switzerland!
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Old Oct 16th, 2023, 12:32 PM
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What a lovely trip report! I don't know Switzerland that well but now I think I need a trip there ... thank you so much!

Lavandula
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Old Oct 17th, 2023, 12:39 AM
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What a wonderful trip! Thank you for sharing. We spent five nights at Hotel Maria too just a few weeks ago. 70traveler, sounds like you’re the very nice lady we met 😉 who recommended that delectable warm chestnut cake at Hotel Sonne!
We are currently in Solothurn wrapping up our 4-1/2-week trip. Finally, we are enjoying autumn weather! Looks like we need to include Appenzell in our next trip to Switzerland.


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Old Oct 17th, 2023, 12:54 AM
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Nice to see people enjoying the best of Switzerland!
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Old Oct 17th, 2023, 10:14 AM
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Lovely summary 70traveler. We too, are currently in Switzerland, one week left of our five week trip.

It's finally cooling off - has been way too warm for our tastes. You've piqued my interest in Appenzell, which we've never visited but may have to consider.
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Old Oct 18th, 2023, 01:42 PM
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Oooh. Solothurn! I spent a week in a Fewo a few years ago, to explore French Switzerland. Loved the area.
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Old Oct 18th, 2023, 09:26 PM
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Hi 70traveler!

What a great trip!! It sounds fantastic, and what a great deal you got!

Thanks so much for posting!

s
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Old Oct 20th, 2023, 11:13 AM
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milaedg-I did give you a mention in my trip report posted to another forum! I hope you will be posting a trip report as I'd love to hear about your travels.
And you too melnq8!

I'm definitely missing the chestnut cake but as its autumn here in New England I'm enjoying homemade apple cake,
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