A Month along the Fringe: Northern Italy with a Bit of Switzerland
Feb 17th, 2025 | 02:03 PM
#81
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 3,087
Likes: 26
Totally enjoying your journey through the snow-capped peaks and the charming alpine villages bedecked for Christmas in places we didn't get to visit. After all, we "only" had 7 years in Austria, but every week it seemed as if our travel wish list grew longer and longer.
I am duly impressed that you can travel for so long. Our dog/house sitter costs notwithstanding, I max out at about 14 days away from home. Good for you!
Do you keep organized travel photobooks and trip reports? I'm always trying to improve on how I record our travels, because I save just about every travel momento, and the closet in the guest bedroom is bursting at the seams, begging me to go full Marie Kondo on the "stuff."
I am duly impressed that you can travel for so long. Our dog/house sitter costs notwithstanding, I max out at about 14 days away from home. Good for you!
Do you keep organized travel photobooks and trip reports? I'm always trying to improve on how I record our travels, because I save just about every travel momento, and the closet in the guest bedroom is bursting at the seams, begging me to go full Marie Kondo on the "stuff."
Feb 17th, 2025 | 02:41 PM
#82
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,173
Likes: 83
fourfortravel -
Thanks for reading along.
No, I don't keep travel photobooks or momentos, I did early on, but not for years. I keep my reports on my desktop computer as well as my photos, but the photos are only organized by trip, town and date. I used to try to label them but that just became too onerous because I take so many.
We "only" had seven years in Perth, Australia, and try as we might, there was never enough time to see as much as we'd have liked, so I get where you're coming from.
Four or five weeks is our norm, but we're considering six weeks next time as we've made two four week trips, a month apart for the past two years and it's proven a bit much from an energy standpoint.
Thanks for reading along.
No, I don't keep travel photobooks or momentos, I did early on, but not for years. I keep my reports on my desktop computer as well as my photos, but the photos are only organized by trip, town and date. I used to try to label them but that just became too onerous because I take so many.
We "only" had seven years in Perth, Australia, and try as we might, there was never enough time to see as much as we'd have liked, so I get where you're coming from.
Four or five weeks is our norm, but we're considering six weeks next time as we've made two four week trips, a month apart for the past two years and it's proven a bit much from an energy standpoint.
Feb 18th, 2025 | 06:40 AM
#83
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,173
Likes: 83
Dec 14 -
After caffeine and croissants at Truth (€8.40), we walked to the Bellano train station and purchased tickets at the bar/caf for the 10:30 am train to Como San Giovani, via Monza (€15.50 for both, one way).
We’d already decided to go through Monza, and the guy manning the counter reinforced our choice, telling us Lecco “was trouble” (going through Lecco involved a second train change with a very short connection, and we didn’t trust the trains at this point).
Note: There are also ‘fast ferries’ to Como that leave from Bellano and Varenna, but they’re few and far between this time of year, and just didn’t work with our plans.
Although I suspected Como was going to be too crowded and busy for our tastes, I wanted to at least see it, and more specifically, check out those Christmas Markets and light show that I’d had so much trouble finding details on.
We arrived in Como around 12:30 and immediately got in the queue at the ticket office, where a very helpful young man offered lots of info, including details on the last train back to Bellano.
Our plan was to avoid waiting in line for tickets when we left Como, and good thing, as we were in line for quite a while as it was (€15.50).
Note: We intentionally didn’t buy return tickets in Bellano as we’d been told they were only good for six hours; two of which were used just getting to Como.
We then set about exploring, wandering the streets and alleyways, and looking for a place for lunch. Bill was drawn to Ristorante da Rino by an interesting risotto dish on the menu, but the restaurant was full; we were told to return in 30 minutes. So, we left our name and wandered for a bit.
Ristorante da Rino
Wandering Como
Wandering Como
Wandering Como
Wandering Como
Wandering Como
When we returned to the restaurant, we were seated…and then abandoned. Twenty-minutes later the menus arrived. We asked for a wine menu, which appeared as we placed our food order. Someone eventually returned to take our wine order.
As we looked around the restaurant, we realized very few people were eating. Nothing seemed to be happening. Food eventually began to trickle out of the kitchen, one course at a time, for the diners around us.
We sat there for an hour, most of it without wine, before our food finally arrived.
Other customers were having the same issue, but most of them seemed to have ordered several courses.
Some 90 minutes later we were finally fed and watered, having only ordered risotto (€15 each, two person minimum) and red wine (€5 per glass). I’m all for slow food, but this was a bit much, even for Italy. The wait would have been considerably less painful had we been offered wine much sooner (wine helps just about everything, no?).
The risotto was good, but definitely not worth the glacially slow service (€58.50, including €2.50 for sparkling water, €3 each coperto).
Risotto with artichokes, bacon and pecorino cheese
Finally free, we set out to explore Como, poking through the various Christmas Markets, wandering along the waterfront and up and down various pedestrian zones.
Como Christmas Market
Como Christmas Market
Como Christmas Market
Como Christmas Market
Como Christmas Market
Como Christmas Market
Como Christmas Market
Gigantic olives
Cheese anyone?
The streets were brimming with humanity on this Saturday afternoon. I was surprised that the crowds were not concentrated around the Christmas Markets, but rather just aimlessly wandering the streets. There were a lot of food vendors, as well as vendors selling clothing and goods very similar to what we’ve seen at weekly markets in Italy.
Wandering Como
Basilica Cattedrale di Como
We took a break in the empty Super Social Club, where we had a peaceful glass of wine before heading back out into the fray (€13).
Super Social Club
Now dark, we stumbled upon what might have been the light show - it was completely underwhelming, just a projection of a lighted scene against a single building.
Como light show
But it’s quite possible we missed most of it, as a video I'd found online from 2021 showed a much more elaborate scene.
We eventually worked our way back to the busy train station, caught the 6:36 pm train to Monza, connected to a train to Bellano, arriving about 8:30. It’d been a long day, we’d been out for about 10 hours.
As expected, Como just wasn’t our scene.
To be continued…
After caffeine and croissants at Truth (€8.40), we walked to the Bellano train station and purchased tickets at the bar/caf for the 10:30 am train to Como San Giovani, via Monza (€15.50 for both, one way).
We’d already decided to go through Monza, and the guy manning the counter reinforced our choice, telling us Lecco “was trouble” (going through Lecco involved a second train change with a very short connection, and we didn’t trust the trains at this point).
Note: There are also ‘fast ferries’ to Como that leave from Bellano and Varenna, but they’re few and far between this time of year, and just didn’t work with our plans.
Although I suspected Como was going to be too crowded and busy for our tastes, I wanted to at least see it, and more specifically, check out those Christmas Markets and light show that I’d had so much trouble finding details on.
We arrived in Como around 12:30 and immediately got in the queue at the ticket office, where a very helpful young man offered lots of info, including details on the last train back to Bellano.
Our plan was to avoid waiting in line for tickets when we left Como, and good thing, as we were in line for quite a while as it was (€15.50).
Note: We intentionally didn’t buy return tickets in Bellano as we’d been told they were only good for six hours; two of which were used just getting to Como.
We then set about exploring, wandering the streets and alleyways, and looking for a place for lunch. Bill was drawn to Ristorante da Rino by an interesting risotto dish on the menu, but the restaurant was full; we were told to return in 30 minutes. So, we left our name and wandered for a bit.
Ristorante da Rino
Wandering Como
Wandering Como
Wandering Como
Wandering Como
Wandering Como
When we returned to the restaurant, we were seated…and then abandoned. Twenty-minutes later the menus arrived. We asked for a wine menu, which appeared as we placed our food order. Someone eventually returned to take our wine order.
As we looked around the restaurant, we realized very few people were eating. Nothing seemed to be happening. Food eventually began to trickle out of the kitchen, one course at a time, for the diners around us.
We sat there for an hour, most of it without wine, before our food finally arrived.
Other customers were having the same issue, but most of them seemed to have ordered several courses.
Some 90 minutes later we were finally fed and watered, having only ordered risotto (€15 each, two person minimum) and red wine (€5 per glass). I’m all for slow food, but this was a bit much, even for Italy. The wait would have been considerably less painful had we been offered wine much sooner (wine helps just about everything, no?).
The risotto was good, but definitely not worth the glacially slow service (€58.50, including €2.50 for sparkling water, €3 each coperto).
Risotto with artichokes, bacon and pecorino cheese
Finally free, we set out to explore Como, poking through the various Christmas Markets, wandering along the waterfront and up and down various pedestrian zones.
Como Christmas Market
Como Christmas Market
Como Christmas Market
Como Christmas Market
Como Christmas Market
Como Christmas Market
Como Christmas Market
Gigantic olives
Cheese anyone?
The streets were brimming with humanity on this Saturday afternoon. I was surprised that the crowds were not concentrated around the Christmas Markets, but rather just aimlessly wandering the streets. There were a lot of food vendors, as well as vendors selling clothing and goods very similar to what we’ve seen at weekly markets in Italy.
Wandering Como
Basilica Cattedrale di Como
We took a break in the empty Super Social Club, where we had a peaceful glass of wine before heading back out into the fray (€13).
Super Social Club
Now dark, we stumbled upon what might have been the light show - it was completely underwhelming, just a projection of a lighted scene against a single building.
Como light show
But it’s quite possible we missed most of it, as a video I'd found online from 2021 showed a much more elaborate scene.
We eventually worked our way back to the busy train station, caught the 6:36 pm train to Monza, connected to a train to Bellano, arriving about 8:30. It’d been a long day, we’d been out for about 10 hours.
As expected, Como just wasn’t our scene.
To be continued…
Last edited by Melnq8; Feb 18th, 2025 at 06:50 AM.
Feb 18th, 2025 | 07:16 AM
#84
Joined: Nov 2021
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
Hello again. I'm following with a lot of interest and pleasure your report, the pictures, the little adventures. I think yes, you missed something in Como. Obviously, the waiting times da Rino were really upsetting and made you loose precious visit time. So bad.
Then usually, on Saturday morning there is also a big market in the street just south of the walls, exiting from Porta Torre and so on, all year round, a bit like the one in Domodossola I would say. Further, the light show, usually very good all around piazza del Duomo, last year was spread in many locations, among those Piazza San Fedele you portraited in the report. But there were more: again Piazza Duomo (Broletto and the bell tower), Teatro Sociale, ex Casa del Fascio, Alessandro Volta monument, Porta Torre, Museo Civico and the Pinacoteca. A classic daytrip for my family, year after year. But not last year: for once we have missed it.
To stroll the pedestrian historic town center from the Duomo to the Porta Torre forth and back is a must in Como all year round ("fare le vasche", like in a swimming pool!). The town center is much more lived than the lakeshore, a bit surprisingly. And, to be honest, the lakeshore in Como is not enough put in value and is a little neglected imo, perhaps explaining also why you didn't post any picture of the lake.
But turn this page, tomorrow is another day!
Then usually, on Saturday morning there is also a big market in the street just south of the walls, exiting from Porta Torre and so on, all year round, a bit like the one in Domodossola I would say. Further, the light show, usually very good all around piazza del Duomo, last year was spread in many locations, among those Piazza San Fedele you portraited in the report. But there were more: again Piazza Duomo (Broletto and the bell tower), Teatro Sociale, ex Casa del Fascio, Alessandro Volta monument, Porta Torre, Museo Civico and the Pinacoteca. A classic daytrip for my family, year after year. But not last year: for once we have missed it.
To stroll the pedestrian historic town center from the Duomo to the Porta Torre forth and back is a must in Como all year round ("fare le vasche", like in a swimming pool!). The town center is much more lived than the lakeshore, a bit surprisingly. And, to be honest, the lakeshore in Como is not enough put in value and is a little neglected imo, perhaps explaining also why you didn't post any picture of the lake.
But turn this page, tomorrow is another day!
Last edited by Finsteraarhorn; Feb 18th, 2025 at 08:03 AM.
Feb 18th, 2025 | 07:33 AM
#85
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,173
Likes: 83
Hi Finsteraarhon -
We did walk along the lake, but my photos weren't any good, so I didn't post them. I'm sure we missed plenty, but I was unable to find any information about the light show prior to our visit, despite looking online and asking at various tourist offices. Do you know of a good source for this information?
We did walk along the lake, but my photos weren't any good, so I didn't post them. I'm sure we missed plenty, but I was unable to find any information about the light show prior to our visit, despite looking online and asking at various tourist offices. Do you know of a good source for this information?
Feb 18th, 2025 | 08:02 AM
#86
Joined: Nov 2021
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
It's often tricky, to retrieve the good information. Maybe in Italy a little more. I surf various websites. Sometimes I got lucky, sometimes not. About the Christmas time in Como last year, the usually well informed "Citt dei balocchi" was dry, so I went for "Natale a Como" and finally to "Qui Como". But it's a detective game. And the worst thing to visit Como is to go by car, as we usually do, as the traffic and the parking there is always annoying.
But what about Lecco? And the Moto Guzzi at Mandello del Lario?
But what about Lecco? And the Moto Guzzi at Mandello del Lario?
Feb 18th, 2025 | 08:11 AM
#87
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 8,336
Likes: 0
Wow! Melnq8, I really appreciate your photos of Varenna and Menaggio since we will be staying in Varenna the first week of June. It's nice to see Varenna without the crowds since that won't be the case for us. But, as you say, it's always a trade off.
Love the photos of your hike in Bellano, too. And Bellano after dark!
Love the photos of your hike in Bellano, too. And Bellano after dark!
Feb 18th, 2025 | 11:57 AM
#91
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,173
Likes: 83
Dec 15 - Third Sunday of Advent
We figured Bellano would be quiet on this Sunday, so we decided to hike from Bellano to Dervio, the next town on the lake in the opposite direction of Varenna.
We made the climb up from behind the Bellano train station again, but were soon distracted by the cemetery perched up on the hill. Italian cemeteries are so ornate and have such huge sculptures that they always surprise me. And the views…
Bellano cemetery
Bellano cemetery
Bellano cemetery
Bellano cemetery
The original plan was to walk the #3 Trail and then connect with the #2 Trail to Dervio, expecting an innocuous three-hour hike, but we somehow ended up on the #7 Trail that led to Santuario Madonna Delle Lacrime.
Trail descriptions
Trail map
From there we located the Sentiero Del Viandante (#2) and worked our way towards Dervio, the trail continuing to ascend, us wondering where the heck we were going to end up. We eventually cut down towards the lake via a steep unmarked social trail.
Sign we passed along the hike
Santuario Madonna Delle Lacrime
Santuario Madonna Delle Lacrime
The hike was a mixed bag of undulating cobblestone steps, moss covered rock, leaves, chestnuts, and a bit of mud, which made for slow going as we picked our way up and down the rocky slopes. It took us 3.5 hours to hike 4.4 miles with an elevation gain of 1,306 up and 1,284 down; the views were fantastic.
Hike to Dervio
Hike to Dervio
Hike to Dervio
I didn't think we'd ever get to Dervio, then once there, we had trouble finding the rail station, eventually pulling out the GPS to discover it was a mile further on. The town was deserted on this Sunday afternoon, nothing open except for a crotto we passed early on.
Finally at the closed rail station, there was nowhere to purchase tickets, not even a ticket machine. While we waited for the once hourly train, Bill tried to download the Trenord app to his phone, but it kept getting hung up. So, we got on the next train hoping we could pay the conductor for the five-minute ride to Bellano (€1.50). No one ever came by, so we got a free ride, although we felt a bit guilty.
We didn’t expect to find anything open in Bellano, so were surprised to find the Wonder Cafe open and busy as we passed it on the way from the train station to the apartment. Several customers, including the young man we recognized from Bellanasco, were gathered around the bar.
Bill ordered the Wonder Hamburger and fries (€15), I chose the bruschetta mediterrnea (€8.50), both quite good, chased down with a prosecco (€3.50), and a Bibock beer (€5).
We then decided to share two desserts, catalana crme (€5.50) and their version of Tartufo Bianco, which in this case was cheesecake gelato with a raspberry center and cookie crust (€5).
Bruschetta mediterrnea
Catalana crme
Tartufo Bianco
The Wonder Caf was a nice surprise, the food was good - and their loo had a toilet seat, TP and soap in the bathroom (!) which had definitely not been the case in many establishments we’d patronized this trip, (€45.50 including coperto).
Bellano had welcomed Babbo Natale today; many residents had gathered on the waterfront to greet him. He then made the rounds through town, perched on a seat in the back of a panel truck with open sides as he played a series of bells. Fun to watch.
Bellano welcomes Babbo Natale
Babbo Natale
The Christmas music they’d been playing on the waterfront since we arrived suddenly kicked up a notch, Christmas was on the way; although with a high of 52F today, it didn’t feel much like December.
To be continued...
We figured Bellano would be quiet on this Sunday, so we decided to hike from Bellano to Dervio, the next town on the lake in the opposite direction of Varenna.
We made the climb up from behind the Bellano train station again, but were soon distracted by the cemetery perched up on the hill. Italian cemeteries are so ornate and have such huge sculptures that they always surprise me. And the views…
Bellano cemetery
Bellano cemetery
Bellano cemetery
Bellano cemetery
The original plan was to walk the #3 Trail and then connect with the #2 Trail to Dervio, expecting an innocuous three-hour hike, but we somehow ended up on the #7 Trail that led to Santuario Madonna Delle Lacrime.
Trail descriptions
Trail map
From there we located the Sentiero Del Viandante (#2) and worked our way towards Dervio, the trail continuing to ascend, us wondering where the heck we were going to end up. We eventually cut down towards the lake via a steep unmarked social trail.
Sign we passed along the hike
Santuario Madonna Delle Lacrime
Santuario Madonna Delle Lacrime
The hike was a mixed bag of undulating cobblestone steps, moss covered rock, leaves, chestnuts, and a bit of mud, which made for slow going as we picked our way up and down the rocky slopes. It took us 3.5 hours to hike 4.4 miles with an elevation gain of 1,306 up and 1,284 down; the views were fantastic.
Hike to Dervio
Hike to Dervio
Hike to Dervio
I didn't think we'd ever get to Dervio, then once there, we had trouble finding the rail station, eventually pulling out the GPS to discover it was a mile further on. The town was deserted on this Sunday afternoon, nothing open except for a crotto we passed early on.
Finally at the closed rail station, there was nowhere to purchase tickets, not even a ticket machine. While we waited for the once hourly train, Bill tried to download the Trenord app to his phone, but it kept getting hung up. So, we got on the next train hoping we could pay the conductor for the five-minute ride to Bellano (€1.50). No one ever came by, so we got a free ride, although we felt a bit guilty.
We didn’t expect to find anything open in Bellano, so were surprised to find the Wonder Cafe open and busy as we passed it on the way from the train station to the apartment. Several customers, including the young man we recognized from Bellanasco, were gathered around the bar.
Bill ordered the Wonder Hamburger and fries (€15), I chose the bruschetta mediterrnea (€8.50), both quite good, chased down with a prosecco (€3.50), and a Bibock beer (€5).
We then decided to share two desserts, catalana crme (€5.50) and their version of Tartufo Bianco, which in this case was cheesecake gelato with a raspberry center and cookie crust (€5).
Bruschetta mediterrnea
Catalana crme
Tartufo Bianco
The Wonder Caf was a nice surprise, the food was good - and their loo had a toilet seat, TP and soap in the bathroom (!) which had definitely not been the case in many establishments we’d patronized this trip, (€45.50 including coperto).
Bellano had welcomed Babbo Natale today; many residents had gathered on the waterfront to greet him. He then made the rounds through town, perched on a seat in the back of a panel truck with open sides as he played a series of bells. Fun to watch.
Bellano welcomes Babbo Natale
Babbo Natale
The Christmas music they’d been playing on the waterfront since we arrived suddenly kicked up a notch, Christmas was on the way; although with a high of 52F today, it didn’t feel much like December.
To be continued...
Last edited by Melnq8; Feb 18th, 2025 at 12:11 PM.
Feb 18th, 2025 | 03:10 PM
#92
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 478
Likes: 0
Fabulous trip report, as all of yours are! The sky in your photos is definitely an advertisement for winter travel. I'm so glad I popped in to the Europe forum for a gander, as I have been spending time in the Asia forum. Still need to report on our trips to Sicily and Puglia. At present I am taking the LIFO approach to my trip reports. Lots to catch up on!
Feb 18th, 2025 | 08:21 PM
#93
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 6,222
Likes: 0
Love your report and photos of Day #14 and Day #15!!! The Christmas market in Como is so festive, and I love the photos of the 2 huge bears. The hike you did in Bellano sounds very difficult. You definitely have more energy than I do!
I love visiting beautiful cemeteries, too!
I love visiting beautiful cemeteries, too!
Feb 19th, 2025 | 05:46 AM
#95
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,173
Likes: 83
Dec 16 -
Coordinating check-in and check-out times at apartments - especially when the destinations are short distances apart - can be a challenge, but we’ve found that hosts are quite accommodating in the low season - because they can be.
Our Air BNB host in Bellano had allowed us to check-in four hours early and check out 30 minutes late. That morning, our Air BNB host at our next destination - Chiavenna - responded to our request for an early arrival, telling us we could check in at any time.
After so-so coffee and pastry at Pasticceria Lorla (€7.20), we bought tickets at the rail station coffee shop (€9.40 for both) and took the 10:30 am train to Colico, where we eventually transferred to a train to Chiavenna.
Neither train was busy, but the second one smelled to high heaven (not the first time this has happened on an Italian train this trip). The journey took about an hour; the first train was late, something we were beginning to expect.
We arrived at the Chiavenna rail station, which had no ramp or elevator, so we had to carry our luggage down a long flight of stairs and then back up, both of us grumbling about being too old for this nonsense. We've visited Chiavenna before, but have always arrived by bus from Switzerland, so weren’t aware of the lack of ramp/elevator.
Chiavenna was warm and sunny; we walked the 15-20 minutes to the apartment, which was about .6 mile from the historic center; a bit further out than I expected, but it worked out well enough. We were sweating by the time we got there; it was about 60 F and we’d worn our jackets. I’d tried to book the place we stayed in last time, but was unsuccessful, so this was my second choice.
Chiavenna welcome committee
The apartment was one of two situated in a house on the lower floor; the owner and her family lived above. It was completely self-contained and private. The owner Morena met us upon arrival and walked us through the place. The heat was set at 23c, so we asked her to lower it to 19c, as she had sole control of the temperature. We’d later regret that decision, as it did get pretty cold at night, but we just wore our fleece jackets indoors, not unlike what we do at home in Colorado.
Once settled, we sought out lunch, choosing a place we knew from previous trips, Caff Svizzero, situated in the historic center.
Caff Svizzero
Bill chose the Pizzoccheri Valtellinesi, a flat ribbon pasta, made with a blend of buckwheat flour and wheat flour, mixed with cheese, potatoes, savoy cabbage, butter, garlic and sage. I’m not a fan of Pizzoccheri, the grey-black color of the pasta puts me off. Bill enjoyed it, but said the potatoes added no value (€10).
Pizzoccheri Valtellinesi
I chose the special of the day, Cacio e Pepe, spaghetti with pepper and cheese, tasty and simple (€8). We also each had a glass of wine (€4 each) and then a rum baba for me and something chocolate I failed to note for him (€32 including €1 each coperto and very good).
Cacio e Pepe
Rum baba and something chocolate
Afterwards we explored a bit, popping into two grocery stores looking for coffee pods to fit the machine in the apartment. Later we walked back to the rail station for information at the tourist office, and then it was across the street to the hopping Caffe Bistrot Mastai, our favorite place in Chiavenna for aperitivo, where we grazed while imbibing in a very nice Sassella (€22).
Chiavenna
Chiavenna
Chiavenna
Caffe Bistrot Mastai
Caffe Bistrot Mastai
Then it was back to the apartment, our fifth trip so far; we were certainly getting in our steps. It had been a very pretty day, but our host warned us that bad weather was on the way.
To be continued...
Coordinating check-in and check-out times at apartments - especially when the destinations are short distances apart - can be a challenge, but we’ve found that hosts are quite accommodating in the low season - because they can be.
Our Air BNB host in Bellano had allowed us to check-in four hours early and check out 30 minutes late. That morning, our Air BNB host at our next destination - Chiavenna - responded to our request for an early arrival, telling us we could check in at any time.
After so-so coffee and pastry at Pasticceria Lorla (€7.20), we bought tickets at the rail station coffee shop (€9.40 for both) and took the 10:30 am train to Colico, where we eventually transferred to a train to Chiavenna.
Neither train was busy, but the second one smelled to high heaven (not the first time this has happened on an Italian train this trip). The journey took about an hour; the first train was late, something we were beginning to expect.
We arrived at the Chiavenna rail station, which had no ramp or elevator, so we had to carry our luggage down a long flight of stairs and then back up, both of us grumbling about being too old for this nonsense. We've visited Chiavenna before, but have always arrived by bus from Switzerland, so weren’t aware of the lack of ramp/elevator.
Chiavenna was warm and sunny; we walked the 15-20 minutes to the apartment, which was about .6 mile from the historic center; a bit further out than I expected, but it worked out well enough. We were sweating by the time we got there; it was about 60 F and we’d worn our jackets. I’d tried to book the place we stayed in last time, but was unsuccessful, so this was my second choice.
Chiavenna welcome committee
The apartment was one of two situated in a house on the lower floor; the owner and her family lived above. It was completely self-contained and private. The owner Morena met us upon arrival and walked us through the place. The heat was set at 23c, so we asked her to lower it to 19c, as she had sole control of the temperature. We’d later regret that decision, as it did get pretty cold at night, but we just wore our fleece jackets indoors, not unlike what we do at home in Colorado.
Once settled, we sought out lunch, choosing a place we knew from previous trips, Caff Svizzero, situated in the historic center.
Caff Svizzero
Bill chose the Pizzoccheri Valtellinesi, a flat ribbon pasta, made with a blend of buckwheat flour and wheat flour, mixed with cheese, potatoes, savoy cabbage, butter, garlic and sage. I’m not a fan of Pizzoccheri, the grey-black color of the pasta puts me off. Bill enjoyed it, but said the potatoes added no value (€10).
Pizzoccheri Valtellinesi
I chose the special of the day, Cacio e Pepe, spaghetti with pepper and cheese, tasty and simple (€8). We also each had a glass of wine (€4 each) and then a rum baba for me and something chocolate I failed to note for him (€32 including €1 each coperto and very good).
Cacio e Pepe
Rum baba and something chocolate
Afterwards we explored a bit, popping into two grocery stores looking for coffee pods to fit the machine in the apartment. Later we walked back to the rail station for information at the tourist office, and then it was across the street to the hopping Caffe Bistrot Mastai, our favorite place in Chiavenna for aperitivo, where we grazed while imbibing in a very nice Sassella (€22).
Chiavenna
Chiavenna
Chiavenna
Caffe Bistrot Mastai
Caffe Bistrot Mastai
Then it was back to the apartment, our fifth trip so far; we were certainly getting in our steps. It had been a very pretty day, but our host warned us that bad weather was on the way.
To be continued...
Last edited by Melnq8; Feb 19th, 2025 at 06:33 AM.
Feb 19th, 2025 | 09:20 AM
#96
Joined: Aug 2022
Posts: 120
Likes: 0
Following along your TR with joy, interest, and exploring with you (googling many places/taking notes). As usual, loved the pictures: the ones with bright blue weather around Bellano, the nocturnal, and the grayish and bucolic ones around Lake Orta.
I hadnt heard about Bellano, and when I googled it, I saw this place: Orrido di Bellano a gorge. Did you happen to see it while there?
I had a trip planned for Oct 2024 (but had to cancel due to having my ankle broken four months before ☹) that included Chiavenna and a day trip to Varenna. And now I am replanning/rebooking it for this year 😊.
I hadnt heard about Bellano, and when I googled it, I saw this place: Orrido di Bellano a gorge. Did you happen to see it while there?
I had a trip planned for Oct 2024 (but had to cancel due to having my ankle broken four months before ☹) that included Chiavenna and a day trip to Varenna. And now I am replanning/rebooking it for this year 😊.
Feb 19th, 2025 | 11:21 AM
#97
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 4,298
Likes: 19
I’m delighting in your updates too.
And your comment reminded me of our priorities “Afterwards we explored a bit, popping into two grocery stores looking for coffee pods to fit the machine in the apartment” … we learnt to keep a pod for our shopping or we would end up with boxes of useless pods and a caffeine withdrawal.
And your comment reminded me of our priorities “Afterwards we explored a bit, popping into two grocery stores looking for coffee pods to fit the machine in the apartment” … we learnt to keep a pod for our shopping or we would end up with boxes of useless pods and a caffeine withdrawal.
Feb 19th, 2025 | 12:31 PM
#98
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,173
Likes: 83
Glad to hear you're finding the report helpful leifields, sorry to hear about your broken ankle. Ouch.
I hadn’t heard about Bellano, and when I googled it, I saw this place: Orrido di Bellano – a gorge. Did you happen to see it while there?
Yes, we walked right by the gorge entrance, but didn't visit it. There was some sort of Christmas light show going on there during our stay too.
Adelaidean - Same here, or at least a wrapper or a photo! Here's proof
I always take some Nespresso pods with me but this year every apartment seemed to have different pod coffee machines. We never did find the right pods in Chiavenna, but we had coffee out several mornings so not a problem. Sometimes I just ask the host for extras, offering to pay for them. Sometimes we're charged, sometimes not.
I've abandoned more than my share of coffee pods while traveling too - problem is, the last place we stay usually gets them all and they seldom fit the machine at that particular apartment. Oh well. The things we do for caffeine.
I hadn’t heard about Bellano, and when I googled it, I saw this place: Orrido di Bellano – a gorge. Did you happen to see it while there?
Yes, we walked right by the gorge entrance, but didn't visit it. There was some sort of Christmas light show going on there during our stay too.
Adelaidean - Same here, or at least a wrapper or a photo! Here's proof
I always take some Nespresso pods with me but this year every apartment seemed to have different pod coffee machines. We never did find the right pods in Chiavenna, but we had coffee out several mornings so not a problem. Sometimes I just ask the host for extras, offering to pay for them. Sometimes we're charged, sometimes not.
I've abandoned more than my share of coffee pods while traveling too - problem is, the last place we stay usually gets them all and they seldom fit the machine at that particular apartment. Oh well. The things we do for caffeine.
Last edited by Melnq8; Feb 19th, 2025 at 12:37 PM.
Feb 20th, 2025 | 03:47 AM
#100
Joined: Nov 2021
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
Possibly, the "something chocolate" Bill had at Caff Svizzero was an "Africano", if it had some "pan di Spagna" and cream inside.
I love "pizzoccheri". You had the Valtellina ones, but in Chiavenna you usually also find the Valchiavenna type: white, gnocchetti-like, just with butter, cheese and pepper. No vegetables, differently yummy.
I love "pizzoccheri". You had the Valtellina ones, but in Chiavenna you usually also find the Valchiavenna type: white, gnocchetti-like, just with butter, cheese and pepper. No vegetables, differently yummy.
