A Month along the Fringe: Northern Italy with a Bit of Switzerland
Feb 6th, 2025 | 03:41 PM
#23
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,173
Likes: 83
Dec 2 -
Our abbreviated breakfast was a bit disappointing; we both missed yesterday’s pile of bacon and other items, but there were only four guests in the hotel, so completely understandable.
My phone advised me that there was a 100% chance of rain today, but not expected until 2 pm.
We walked over to Feinbckerei Studer after breakfast to pick up a Nusstorten to take with us to Domodossola. I love Engadiner nusstorte, but discovered this one three years ago and liked it even better - the crust is really buttery - 21 chf.
Nusstorten
We went to the tourist office when they opened at 9 am, conveniently located directly across the street from our hotel. We asked for details on a few walks I’d earmarked. The young woman said it looked okay today on top of the Weissenstein, Solothurn’s local mountain, telling us rain was expected around 5 pm.
So, we decided to take the bus from the bahnhof to Oberbalmberg, Kurhaus and then walk from there to Weissenstein.
As we got ready back in the hotel, our conversation went something like this:
Bill - I think I’ll take my Gortex jacket and my winter coat.
Mel - you shouldn't need both. I’m not taking my Gortex, less to carry in the backpack. It’s not supposed to rain until 2-5 pm and we’ll be done by then.
So, we left our rain jackets behind, walked to the bahnhof and caught the 10:37 am #12 bus to Oberbalmberg, the ride taking about 30 minutes (4.20 chf each, half fare).
Aare River, Solothurn
And of course, the minute we got off the bus, it began to rain.
Our plan was to walk a portion of the three-hour, 510 meter up/down Balmberg-Roti circuit, walking up to Weissenstein and then taking the cable car back down to Oberdorf SO.
We were a bit concerned about the elevation gain (1,683 feet), especially as it began to rain in earnest about 10 minutes into the hike, our rain gear back in our hotel, earning me no points with my spouse. We live in the mountains of CO - I should know better.
The further we walked, the harder it rained.
We’d read that the trail could be slippery, and today it was certainly that, thanks to the wet and moss-covered rocks. Fortunately, the change in elevation was only about 220 meters, and the 2.23 mile walk only took an hour.
Balmberg-Roti circuit, walking up to Weissenstein
Final push to Weissenstein Hotel
We arrived at the Weissenstein Hotel rather wet, but otherwise intact. We’d only seen one other person, a man walking in the opposite direction who stopped and said something to us in German, me later wondering if he was telling us to turn around.
We had lunch in the hotel’s restaurant - only four other patrons - and took in the non-views. We’d been up here before, so didn’t feel that we were missing out, especially as the Jura Mountains are ant hills compared to most mountains in Switzerland. My phone welcomed me to France while we were at the top.
Non-views, Weissenstein Hotel Restaurant
Bill chose the flammkuchen with onion and bacon (17 chf), I chose the flammkuchen with feta and spicy green peppers (16 chf), both good, 50.50 chf with one glass of wine each. We had a nice chat with our waitress from the Netherlands.
Flammkuchen
The sun peeked out just as we took the cable car down to Oberdorf SO (10 chf each, half fare), but of course. Once there, we waited aboard the once hourly train back to Solothurn until departure (3 chf each, half fare).
Cable car down to Oberdorf SO
Then it was back to the hotel to dry off.
Solothurn rail station bike storage
That evening we had dinner in our hotel’s French inspired Le Restaurant, which was included with our hotel package.
We were presented with a menu in English, which gave us a choice of two salads, soup, two mains, and three desserts; here we spent the next 2:15 hours enjoying our four course meal.
Le Restaurant
We’re not foodies by any stretch, and it’s highly unlikely that we’d have chosen a 14-point Gault & Millau restaurant for a meal had it not been part of a hotel package, but now that we have, we could well do it again.
My salad of “pumpkin variation, burrata, nectarine chutney, lamb’s lettuce” was fantastic; the pumpkin was a decadent mousse, incredibly smooth and unlike anything I’ve ever had. The carrot soup was a bowl of delicious creamy goodness, and neither of us would have even guessed it was carrot.
Pumpkin variation, burrata, nectarine chutney, lamb’s lettuce
My “Agria potato with truffle, black salsify and red wine shallot” was good, but not earth shattering. Bill loved his “neck filet of Omoso pasture-fed beef with pepper jus, melted potatoes and autumn ratatouille”. And the crme brle - O.M.G!
Wine anyone?
Crme brle
Our meal also came with bread and a fermented tomato butter, and an appetizer of micro greens and some sort of fish filling; Bill ate mine too, and said he wasn’t sure what it was, but that it was great. We also each had a glass of wine, not included, 19.50 chf.
Damn, what a meal.
All things considered, we felt that our hotel package was a good deal by Swiss standards and had the added bonus of introducing us to a restaurant we’d have never tried otherwise.
To be continued...
Our abbreviated breakfast was a bit disappointing; we both missed yesterday’s pile of bacon and other items, but there were only four guests in the hotel, so completely understandable.
My phone advised me that there was a 100% chance of rain today, but not expected until 2 pm.
We walked over to Feinbckerei Studer after breakfast to pick up a Nusstorten to take with us to Domodossola. I love Engadiner nusstorte, but discovered this one three years ago and liked it even better - the crust is really buttery - 21 chf.
Nusstorten
We went to the tourist office when they opened at 9 am, conveniently located directly across the street from our hotel. We asked for details on a few walks I’d earmarked. The young woman said it looked okay today on top of the Weissenstein, Solothurn’s local mountain, telling us rain was expected around 5 pm.
So, we decided to take the bus from the bahnhof to Oberbalmberg, Kurhaus and then walk from there to Weissenstein.
As we got ready back in the hotel, our conversation went something like this:
Bill - I think I’ll take my Gortex jacket and my winter coat.
Mel - you shouldn't need both. I’m not taking my Gortex, less to carry in the backpack. It’s not supposed to rain until 2-5 pm and we’ll be done by then.
So, we left our rain jackets behind, walked to the bahnhof and caught the 10:37 am #12 bus to Oberbalmberg, the ride taking about 30 minutes (4.20 chf each, half fare).
Aare River, Solothurn
And of course, the minute we got off the bus, it began to rain.
Our plan was to walk a portion of the three-hour, 510 meter up/down Balmberg-Roti circuit, walking up to Weissenstein and then taking the cable car back down to Oberdorf SO.
We were a bit concerned about the elevation gain (1,683 feet), especially as it began to rain in earnest about 10 minutes into the hike, our rain gear back in our hotel, earning me no points with my spouse. We live in the mountains of CO - I should know better.
The further we walked, the harder it rained.
We’d read that the trail could be slippery, and today it was certainly that, thanks to the wet and moss-covered rocks. Fortunately, the change in elevation was only about 220 meters, and the 2.23 mile walk only took an hour.
Balmberg-Roti circuit, walking up to Weissenstein
Final push to Weissenstein Hotel
We arrived at the Weissenstein Hotel rather wet, but otherwise intact. We’d only seen one other person, a man walking in the opposite direction who stopped and said something to us in German, me later wondering if he was telling us to turn around.
We had lunch in the hotel’s restaurant - only four other patrons - and took in the non-views. We’d been up here before, so didn’t feel that we were missing out, especially as the Jura Mountains are ant hills compared to most mountains in Switzerland. My phone welcomed me to France while we were at the top.
Non-views, Weissenstein Hotel Restaurant
Bill chose the flammkuchen with onion and bacon (17 chf), I chose the flammkuchen with feta and spicy green peppers (16 chf), both good, 50.50 chf with one glass of wine each. We had a nice chat with our waitress from the Netherlands.
Flammkuchen
The sun peeked out just as we took the cable car down to Oberdorf SO (10 chf each, half fare), but of course. Once there, we waited aboard the once hourly train back to Solothurn until departure (3 chf each, half fare).
Cable car down to Oberdorf SO
Then it was back to the hotel to dry off.
Solothurn rail station bike storage
That evening we had dinner in our hotel’s French inspired Le Restaurant, which was included with our hotel package.
We were presented with a menu in English, which gave us a choice of two salads, soup, two mains, and three desserts; here we spent the next 2:15 hours enjoying our four course meal.
Le Restaurant
We’re not foodies by any stretch, and it’s highly unlikely that we’d have chosen a 14-point Gault & Millau restaurant for a meal had it not been part of a hotel package, but now that we have, we could well do it again.
My salad of “pumpkin variation, burrata, nectarine chutney, lamb’s lettuce” was fantastic; the pumpkin was a decadent mousse, incredibly smooth and unlike anything I’ve ever had. The carrot soup was a bowl of delicious creamy goodness, and neither of us would have even guessed it was carrot.
Pumpkin variation, burrata, nectarine chutney, lamb’s lettuce
My “Agria potato with truffle, black salsify and red wine shallot” was good, but not earth shattering. Bill loved his “neck filet of Omoso pasture-fed beef with pepper jus, melted potatoes and autumn ratatouille”. And the crme brle - O.M.G!
Wine anyone?
Crme brle
Our meal also came with bread and a fermented tomato butter, and an appetizer of micro greens and some sort of fish filling; Bill ate mine too, and said he wasn’t sure what it was, but that it was great. We also each had a glass of wine, not included, 19.50 chf.
Damn, what a meal.
All things considered, we felt that our hotel package was a good deal by Swiss standards and had the added bonus of introducing us to a restaurant we’d have never tried otherwise.
To be continued...
Last edited by Melnq8; Feb 6th, 2025 at 03:50 PM.
Feb 6th, 2025 | 04:32 PM
#24
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 6,222
Likes: 0
I admire you for doing the hike in the rain. When we were in NZ, I walked on the trail along the Pancake Rocks in the pouring rain and wind. My husband HATES to get wet. He stayed in the Visitor Center where it was warm and dry.
Your fancy meal sounds delicious!
Your fancy meal sounds delicious!
Feb 7th, 2025 | 11:09 AM
#27
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 6,222
Likes: 0
Feb 7th, 2025 | 11:29 AM
#28
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,173
Likes: 83
Dec 3 -
The hot breakfast buffet was back, so we ate our fill of bacon, packed up and rolled our luggage to the bahnhof.
Leaving Solothurn
We’d purchased Supersaver tickets for today’s journey on SBB before we left home; 27 chf each, half fare; on day of travel the tickets were 38 chf each, half fare.
We left Solothurn on the 11:17 train, traveling via Bern, Visp and Brig, changing trains in Bern and Brig. We arrived on an underground track in Bern, next to the S trains; the station felt much bigger than we remembered.
Onboard the train
Our 2:45 hour journey to Domodossola took us through the Ltschberg Base Tunnel and through the Simplon Tunnel, the longest tunnel in the world when it opened in 1906.
None of the three trains were busy. We arrived in Domodossola around 2 pm, and having arranged an early check in, located our apartment a five minute walk away.
Nice place this, a 70 square meter attic apartment with an elevator to the fourth floor, then one flight of stairs. We’d both knock our heads on the low ceilings a few times over the next few days.
The apartment was clean, fresh, spacious, well-equipped, quiet and in a great location. It had two large TVs which we didn’t use, a nice comfy couch, a balcony, and a washing machine, always a nice perk. The pillows however, were awful - thick foam. The apartment had a massive, stout door with 8-9 locks, making us wonder if there’s a crime problem in Domodossola.
We immediately went out looking for lunch, randomly selecting Cafe Istriano on Piazza Mercato, where we shared a salami pizza and a plate of risotto with saffron, both very good, chased down with Sauvignon Blanc, loving the prices after Switzerland (€10 pizza, €9.50 risotto, €5 per glass of wine, €39.50 total).
We then sought out our favorite gelato place from our previous visit, Viglia di Gelato, where we tucked into two scoops each, topped with Bailey’s and whipped cream - lovely, €14.
Viglia di Gelato
At 45 F, Domodossola didn’t feel very wintery, but the stacks of panettone in the grocery store were a tip off that Christmas was on the way.
Christmas is coming
Later, we wandered town a bit and sought out a wine bar we liked from last time, Di Vino. Here we enjoyed our favorite Italian tradition, aperitivo, where we opened our stomachs with a lovely Nebbiolo, a native black grape variety from Piedmont, Italy, not knowing at the time that we’d be consuming a lot of it over the coming weeks (€22).
Wandering Domodossola
Wandering Domodossola
Wandering Domodossola
Wandering Domodossola
Wandering Domodossola
Di Vino
Domodossola after dark
The Italian food and drink fest was underway.
To be continued...
The hot breakfast buffet was back, so we ate our fill of bacon, packed up and rolled our luggage to the bahnhof.
Leaving Solothurn
We’d purchased Supersaver tickets for today’s journey on SBB before we left home; 27 chf each, half fare; on day of travel the tickets were 38 chf each, half fare.
We left Solothurn on the 11:17 train, traveling via Bern, Visp and Brig, changing trains in Bern and Brig. We arrived on an underground track in Bern, next to the S trains; the station felt much bigger than we remembered.
Onboard the train
Our 2:45 hour journey to Domodossola took us through the Ltschberg Base Tunnel and through the Simplon Tunnel, the longest tunnel in the world when it opened in 1906.
None of the three trains were busy. We arrived in Domodossola around 2 pm, and having arranged an early check in, located our apartment a five minute walk away.
Nice place this, a 70 square meter attic apartment with an elevator to the fourth floor, then one flight of stairs. We’d both knock our heads on the low ceilings a few times over the next few days.
The apartment was clean, fresh, spacious, well-equipped, quiet and in a great location. It had two large TVs which we didn’t use, a nice comfy couch, a balcony, and a washing machine, always a nice perk. The pillows however, were awful - thick foam. The apartment had a massive, stout door with 8-9 locks, making us wonder if there’s a crime problem in Domodossola.
We immediately went out looking for lunch, randomly selecting Cafe Istriano on Piazza Mercato, where we shared a salami pizza and a plate of risotto with saffron, both very good, chased down with Sauvignon Blanc, loving the prices after Switzerland (€10 pizza, €9.50 risotto, €5 per glass of wine, €39.50 total).
We then sought out our favorite gelato place from our previous visit, Viglia di Gelato, where we tucked into two scoops each, topped with Bailey’s and whipped cream - lovely, €14.
Viglia di Gelato
At 45 F, Domodossola didn’t feel very wintery, but the stacks of panettone in the grocery store were a tip off that Christmas was on the way.
Christmas is coming
Later, we wandered town a bit and sought out a wine bar we liked from last time, Di Vino. Here we enjoyed our favorite Italian tradition, aperitivo, where we opened our stomachs with a lovely Nebbiolo, a native black grape variety from Piedmont, Italy, not knowing at the time that we’d be consuming a lot of it over the coming weeks (€22).
Wandering Domodossola
Wandering Domodossola
Wandering Domodossola
Wandering Domodossola
Wandering Domodossola
Di Vino
Domodossola after dark
The Italian food and drink fest was underway.
To be continued...
Last edited by Melnq8; Feb 7th, 2025 at 11:34 AM.
Feb 7th, 2025 | 05:48 PM
#31
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,173
Likes: 83
yk - We'd visited Solothurn on a previous trip while staying in nearby Grenchen. We knew it, liked it and felt a revisit at a different time of year was in order, especially since it fit well with our loop beginning and ending in Zurich.
It's also a short hop from Zurich, so an easy 'first day' after an overnight flight.
We spent three nights there this time, and spent five nights in nearby Grenchen on a previous trip.
It's also a short hop from Zurich, so an easy 'first day' after an overnight flight.
We spent three nights there this time, and spent five nights in nearby Grenchen on a previous trip.
Feb 8th, 2025 | 06:47 AM
#32
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,173
Likes: 83
Dec 4 -
The hot water ran out halfway through Bill’s shower, so a quick note to our host, who assured us this should not happen.
That Nusstorten from Solothurn made a great breakfast, heated and topped with a bit of whipped cream. We were set for the next three days.
It was 32 F, with a high of 48 expected.
We decided to undertake the hike from the UNESCO world heritage site of Sacro Monte Calvario, a Roman Catholic sanctuary on the Mattarella Hill overlooking Domodossola, to the village of Vagna; a trail that follows ancient mule paths. We’d hiked part of it previously, but didn’t go all the way to Vagna, so wanted to give it another go.
https://www.itinerarium.it/hikes/108...-town-of-vagna
We made the steep climb up to Sacro Monte Calvario, walking gingerly, as the wet moss-covered stones were even more treacherous thanks to a layer of frost concealed by fallen leaves; a trifecta of hazards.
Walking up to Sacro Monte Calvario
Sacro Monte Calvario
Sacro Monte Calvario
Sacro Monte Calvario
Sacro Monte Calvario
Once at the top, we took in the views and then continued walking to Vagna, the day gorgeous.
Views from Sacro Monte Calvario
Trail to Vagna
Trail to Vagna
In Vagna, we tried to get into the church, but it was locked, so we walked through the tiny village, finding several other trails - it looked as if one could walk for days up here.
Vagna
Vagna
Vagna
Vagna
Vagna
We backtracked, stopping at Osteria de Vagna a for a glass of grape (€8), before returning to Domodossola via a different, but equally steep trail, which led us through ankle deep fallen leaves. We took our time, unable to tell what was underfoot, worried about stealth ice. A nice hike on a beautiful day, 4.5 miles.
Osteria de Vagna
Sign in Osteria de Vagna loo
Vagna
Views of Domodossola from Vagna
Vagna
Return hike to Domodossola
Return hike to Domodossola
Back in Domodossola, we followed the GPS to a restaurant on my list (La Cadrega), but there was no room inside, and we didn’t want to sit outside with the smokers, so we moved on, choosing a spot we’d dined at last year, Officine Domesi.
I chose the Trofie pom Pachino, €13 (pasta with tomato sauce) and Bill the Risotto Melograno Ricotta, €13 (risotto with pomegranate, described by our waiter as ‘small grapes’) both of us surprised when it was presented tableside in a wheel of cheese. Bill proclaimed it the best risotto he’d ever had; and I agree, it was fantastic, €46 with drinks and €2 each coperto.
Officine Domesi
Then it was back to Viglia di Gelato for dessert, scoops of caffe, crema and fior di latte for me, pistachio, crema and pineapple for Bill, €8. Delicious.
There's always room for gelato!
Piazza del Mercato Domodossola
Piazza del Mercato Domodossola
Parish church
Parish church
Domodossola
Later we walked to the train station to look into train tickets to Santa Maria Maggiore in the nearby Vigezzo Valley. I’d read about a three day Christmas Market held there, said to be one of the most visited in Italy and supposedly ‘the most authentic Christmas Market’ with only hand crafted items. As luck would have it, we were in the vicinity on its opening day, Dec 6, and I wanted to check it out.
We looked online and discovered we could buy train tickets to Santa Maria Maggiore via the Centovalli Vigezzina website, which operates the 52 km scenic narrow-gauge railway line that runs between Domodossola, Italy and Locarno, Switzerland, but it was unclear if we could download the tickets to our phones as they asked for a mailing address. The site was offering train tickets for two including seat reservations for €34.
We also looked at SBB (Swiss rail site) and discovered we could also buy them online through them for 10.60 chf each way per person, so 42.40 chf return for both, but it was unclear how to reserve a seat.
At the train station we were directed to the lower level ticket office, but it had already closed.
So, we decided to check back in the morning, and also visit the tourist office when it opened at 8:30 am.
That evening it was back to Di Vino for an encore of that lovely Nebbiolo, €22. We told our waiter we’d see him tomorrow, but we didn’t make it back.
Di Vino
Piazza del Mercado
Piazza del Mercado
To be continued...
The hot water ran out halfway through Bill’s shower, so a quick note to our host, who assured us this should not happen.
That Nusstorten from Solothurn made a great breakfast, heated and topped with a bit of whipped cream. We were set for the next three days.
It was 32 F, with a high of 48 expected.
We decided to undertake the hike from the UNESCO world heritage site of Sacro Monte Calvario, a Roman Catholic sanctuary on the Mattarella Hill overlooking Domodossola, to the village of Vagna; a trail that follows ancient mule paths. We’d hiked part of it previously, but didn’t go all the way to Vagna, so wanted to give it another go.
https://www.itinerarium.it/hikes/108...-town-of-vagna
We made the steep climb up to Sacro Monte Calvario, walking gingerly, as the wet moss-covered stones were even more treacherous thanks to a layer of frost concealed by fallen leaves; a trifecta of hazards.
Walking up to Sacro Monte Calvario
Sacro Monte Calvario
Sacro Monte Calvario
Sacro Monte Calvario
Sacro Monte Calvario
Once at the top, we took in the views and then continued walking to Vagna, the day gorgeous.
Views from Sacro Monte Calvario
Trail to Vagna
Trail to Vagna
In Vagna, we tried to get into the church, but it was locked, so we walked through the tiny village, finding several other trails - it looked as if one could walk for days up here.
Vagna
Vagna
Vagna
Vagna
Vagna
We backtracked, stopping at Osteria de Vagna a for a glass of grape (€8), before returning to Domodossola via a different, but equally steep trail, which led us through ankle deep fallen leaves. We took our time, unable to tell what was underfoot, worried about stealth ice. A nice hike on a beautiful day, 4.5 miles.
Osteria de Vagna
Sign in Osteria de Vagna loo
Vagna
Views of Domodossola from Vagna
Vagna
Return hike to Domodossola
Return hike to Domodossola
Back in Domodossola, we followed the GPS to a restaurant on my list (La Cadrega), but there was no room inside, and we didn’t want to sit outside with the smokers, so we moved on, choosing a spot we’d dined at last year, Officine Domesi.
I chose the Trofie pom Pachino, €13 (pasta with tomato sauce) and Bill the Risotto Melograno Ricotta, €13 (risotto with pomegranate, described by our waiter as ‘small grapes’) both of us surprised when it was presented tableside in a wheel of cheese. Bill proclaimed it the best risotto he’d ever had; and I agree, it was fantastic, €46 with drinks and €2 each coperto.
Officine Domesi
Then it was back to Viglia di Gelato for dessert, scoops of caffe, crema and fior di latte for me, pistachio, crema and pineapple for Bill, €8. Delicious.
There's always room for gelato!
Piazza del Mercato Domodossola
Piazza del Mercato Domodossola
Parish church
Parish church
Domodossola
Later we walked to the train station to look into train tickets to Santa Maria Maggiore in the nearby Vigezzo Valley. I’d read about a three day Christmas Market held there, said to be one of the most visited in Italy and supposedly ‘the most authentic Christmas Market’ with only hand crafted items. As luck would have it, we were in the vicinity on its opening day, Dec 6, and I wanted to check it out.
We looked online and discovered we could buy train tickets to Santa Maria Maggiore via the Centovalli Vigezzina website, which operates the 52 km scenic narrow-gauge railway line that runs between Domodossola, Italy and Locarno, Switzerland, but it was unclear if we could download the tickets to our phones as they asked for a mailing address. The site was offering train tickets for two including seat reservations for €34.
We also looked at SBB (Swiss rail site) and discovered we could also buy them online through them for 10.60 chf each way per person, so 42.40 chf return for both, but it was unclear how to reserve a seat.
At the train station we were directed to the lower level ticket office, but it had already closed.
So, we decided to check back in the morning, and also visit the tourist office when it opened at 8:30 am.
That evening it was back to Di Vino for an encore of that lovely Nebbiolo, €22. We told our waiter we’d see him tomorrow, but we didn’t make it back.
Di Vino
Piazza del Mercado
Piazza del Mercado
To be continued...
Last edited by Melnq8; Feb 8th, 2025 at 06:58 AM.
Feb 8th, 2025 | 11:38 AM
#33
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,173
Likes: 83
Dec 5 -
Our first stop was the Centovalli Vigezzina ticket office, where we were told they couldn’t help us, and referred us to the website. Argh...
Next up was the tourist office, where the same helpful woman from last year was manning the shop. She too was unable to help us book train tickets, but checked availability and told us she could only find seats on the 11:26 am train tomorrow and they were in separate carriages. Uh-oh.
We asked her about visiting Arona, which I’d read was a pretty town on Lake Maggiore with a lakeside promenade, piazzas and nice streets to explore; and only a 50 minute train ride from Domodossola. She told us getting there was problematic due to work on the train line, and buses required multiple changes due to work on the road. Okay, scratch Arona.
We then asked her about the medieval walls of Domodossola, and were told visiting them involved a three hour walk each way. Okay, scratch that too.
We asked about the nearby village of Crodo and were told there was only one bus per day and timing was an issue. I’m seeing a pattern here.
So, we changed course, and told her we’d walked to Vagna yesterday, and asked if there was another hike she could suggest, and…score! She suggested the hike to Montecrestese Pontetto, accessible by bus.
We couldn’t make the 10 am bus, so we agreed to take the noon bus and returned to the apartment to look into train tickets to Santa Maria Maggiore. Lo’ and behold, we found tickets still available for our preferred departure and return time, so we booked seats on the 9:26 am train with a 13:55 return for tomorrow, €34 including seat reservations and yes, the tickets were downloaded to our phones with no issues.
On our way to the bus station, we detoured to the Coop to pick up lunch provisions for our hike. Then it was on to the 12 pm bus - Circular Route Nord - which as the name suggests, makes a loop. I asked our driver for return tickets, but didn’t get them, so €6.60 one way for both of us, €4 of which was a supplement for buying onboard. In three trips to Domodossola, we still haven’t figured out how to purchase bus tickets other than on the bus. A little help anyone?
Ten minutes later we were getting off the bus at Pontetto, finding our intended trail right next to the bus stop.
Start of hike
And so began the climb to Montecrestese, which means “the mountain made of rocks growing like crests”, which pretty much sums up the 4.5 mile, 2.5 hour hike....millions of moss-covered rocks, countless stone steps, and just like yesterday, ankle deep leaves.
Hike to Montecrestese
Hike to Montecrestese
Hike to Montecrestese
The trail follows mule tracks and passes through ancient rural hamlets, gardens, vineyards and chestnut groves and is a bit like an open air museum. Some of the ancient villages are once again inhabited, making for a discombobulating mix of old and new.
Hike to Montecrestese
Hike to Montecrestese
Hike to Montecrestese
Hike to Montecrestese
Hike to Montecrestese
Montecrestese cemetery
The tiny village of Montecrestese is dominated by a Catholic school, today with lots of kids out in the yard.
Montecrestese
Montecrestese
We ate our picnic lunch on a bench outside the closed Municipal building, then backtracked through the village and located the continuation of the trail to Naviledo. We were joined by a friendly dog, as we continued walking on to Roldo and then eventually back down to Pontetto.
Return hike via Naviledo
Return hike via Naviledo
Return hike via Naviledo
Return hike via Roldo
Friendly dog
The hike was not what we expected when we set out; we thought it’d be more in the mountains; it was an unexpected surprised and a great way to spend a beautiful December afternoon (45F).
Back in Pontetto we popped into Monkey Pub to await our return bus. We asked for un vino bianco secco, but as so often happens, weren’t understood. The waitress enlisted the help of an intoxicated man named Bruno to help translate. Turns out he didn’t speak English, but was entertaining just the same. I went to the wine case, the waitress brought out several bottles, and with Bruno’s approval we chose one, finding a decent dry white wine, €3.50 per glass.
Then it was back to Domodossola on the 4:10 bus, €6.60, now very cold as the sun had dipped behind the mountains.
Dinner was at Pizzeria Terminus, a favorite from last year. Bufalina pizza for me, Diavola pizza for Bill, wine, sparkling water, €2 each coperto, €44 and very good.
To be continued...
Our first stop was the Centovalli Vigezzina ticket office, where we were told they couldn’t help us, and referred us to the website. Argh...
Next up was the tourist office, where the same helpful woman from last year was manning the shop. She too was unable to help us book train tickets, but checked availability and told us she could only find seats on the 11:26 am train tomorrow and they were in separate carriages. Uh-oh.
We asked her about visiting Arona, which I’d read was a pretty town on Lake Maggiore with a lakeside promenade, piazzas and nice streets to explore; and only a 50 minute train ride from Domodossola. She told us getting there was problematic due to work on the train line, and buses required multiple changes due to work on the road. Okay, scratch Arona.
We then asked her about the medieval walls of Domodossola, and were told visiting them involved a three hour walk each way. Okay, scratch that too.
We asked about the nearby village of Crodo and were told there was only one bus per day and timing was an issue. I’m seeing a pattern here.
So, we changed course, and told her we’d walked to Vagna yesterday, and asked if there was another hike she could suggest, and…score! She suggested the hike to Montecrestese Pontetto, accessible by bus.
We couldn’t make the 10 am bus, so we agreed to take the noon bus and returned to the apartment to look into train tickets to Santa Maria Maggiore. Lo’ and behold, we found tickets still available for our preferred departure and return time, so we booked seats on the 9:26 am train with a 13:55 return for tomorrow, €34 including seat reservations and yes, the tickets were downloaded to our phones with no issues.
On our way to the bus station, we detoured to the Coop to pick up lunch provisions for our hike. Then it was on to the 12 pm bus - Circular Route Nord - which as the name suggests, makes a loop. I asked our driver for return tickets, but didn’t get them, so €6.60 one way for both of us, €4 of which was a supplement for buying onboard. In three trips to Domodossola, we still haven’t figured out how to purchase bus tickets other than on the bus. A little help anyone?
Ten minutes later we were getting off the bus at Pontetto, finding our intended trail right next to the bus stop.
Start of hike
And so began the climb to Montecrestese, which means “the mountain made of rocks growing like crests”, which pretty much sums up the 4.5 mile, 2.5 hour hike....millions of moss-covered rocks, countless stone steps, and just like yesterday, ankle deep leaves.
Hike to Montecrestese
Hike to Montecrestese
Hike to Montecrestese
The trail follows mule tracks and passes through ancient rural hamlets, gardens, vineyards and chestnut groves and is a bit like an open air museum. Some of the ancient villages are once again inhabited, making for a discombobulating mix of old and new.
Hike to Montecrestese
Hike to Montecrestese
Hike to Montecrestese
Hike to Montecrestese
Hike to Montecrestese
Montecrestese cemetery
The tiny village of Montecrestese is dominated by a Catholic school, today with lots of kids out in the yard.
Montecrestese
Montecrestese
We ate our picnic lunch on a bench outside the closed Municipal building, then backtracked through the village and located the continuation of the trail to Naviledo. We were joined by a friendly dog, as we continued walking on to Roldo and then eventually back down to Pontetto.
Return hike via Naviledo
Return hike via Naviledo
Return hike via Naviledo
Return hike via Roldo
Friendly dog
The hike was not what we expected when we set out; we thought it’d be more in the mountains; it was an unexpected surprised and a great way to spend a beautiful December afternoon (45F).
Back in Pontetto we popped into Monkey Pub to await our return bus. We asked for un vino bianco secco, but as so often happens, weren’t understood. The waitress enlisted the help of an intoxicated man named Bruno to help translate. Turns out he didn’t speak English, but was entertaining just the same. I went to the wine case, the waitress brought out several bottles, and with Bruno’s approval we chose one, finding a decent dry white wine, €3.50 per glass.
Then it was back to Domodossola on the 4:10 bus, €6.60, now very cold as the sun had dipped behind the mountains.
Dinner was at Pizzeria Terminus, a favorite from last year. Bufalina pizza for me, Diavola pizza for Bill, wine, sparkling water, €2 each coperto, €44 and very good.
To be continued...
Last edited by Melnq8; Feb 8th, 2025 at 11:45 AM.
Feb 8th, 2025 | 12:44 PM
#34
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 4,298
Likes: 19
Your walks look so interesting, a fabulous combination of (eventual) views, deciduous forest, and quiet villages.
But, that’s a lot of steep uphill!! My DH would not forgive me.
Did you find the paths / routes clear? Enough signage?
I recall having some bewildering moments trying to get tickets in Italy.
One walk led us to Domaso and we sat at the bus stop forever, then jumped on bus and driver frustrated we hadn’t bought tickets at tabacchi. So, another time after our walk to Belgirate on Lake Maggiore we popped into a tabacchi near the bus stop were told no, buy on bus.
Also happened in Pontedera, the ‘biglietto’ office had 4 men playing cards in it who waved us away while I asked for biglietto to Volterra.
So, we got on bus, and driver was gesturing at the biglietto office and my zero Italian not adequate to explain the lack of service, lots of arm waving and rapid, loud Italian at me. A local passenger indicated to me to just sit down.
Loving your report.
We have another heatwave coming this week, and the coolness in your photos is very appealing.
But, that’s a lot of steep uphill!! My DH would not forgive me.
Did you find the paths / routes clear? Enough signage?
I recall having some bewildering moments trying to get tickets in Italy.
One walk led us to Domaso and we sat at the bus stop forever, then jumped on bus and driver frustrated we hadn’t bought tickets at tabacchi. So, another time after our walk to Belgirate on Lake Maggiore we popped into a tabacchi near the bus stop were told no, buy on bus.
Also happened in Pontedera, the ‘biglietto’ office had 4 men playing cards in it who waved us away while I asked for biglietto to Volterra.
So, we got on bus, and driver was gesturing at the biglietto office and my zero Italian not adequate to explain the lack of service, lots of arm waving and rapid, loud Italian at me. A local passenger indicated to me to just sit down.
Loving your report.
We have another heatwave coming this week, and the coolness in your photos is very appealing.
Feb 8th, 2025 | 01:13 PM
#35
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,173
Likes: 83
Adelaidean, yeah, figuring out how to get around Italy has been one of our biggest challenges.
We thought we were stranded last year when we walked from Domodossola to Villadossola, and couldn't make heads or tails of the schedule at the bus stop, or even determine which bus line it was, let alone how to pay.
For the most part, the paths and routes were fairly clear, although we did run into a few lack of signage issues, and it wouldn't be a Bill and Mel trip if we didn't lose the trail a few times.
We thought we were stranded last year when we walked from Domodossola to Villadossola, and couldn't make heads or tails of the schedule at the bus stop, or even determine which bus line it was, let alone how to pay.
For the most part, the paths and routes were fairly clear, although we did run into a few lack of signage issues, and it wouldn't be a Bill and Mel trip if we didn't lose the trail a few times.
Feb 8th, 2025 | 03:55 PM
#36
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 6,222
Likes: 0
Enjoying your walks from the comfort of my home! They look wonderful, and as Adelaidean says, an interesting mix of nature and villages. I am surprised not to see any snow! I wouldn't think your concern would be leaves but instead that it would be snow. Especially love your photos of Piazza del Mercado in the early evening, especially the one with the Christmas tree.
They look wonderful, and as Adelaidean says, an interesting mix of nature and villages. I am surprised not to see any snow! I wouldn't think your concern would be leaves but instead that it would be snow. Especially love your photos of Piazza del Mercado in the early evening, especially the one with the Christmas tree.
Feb 9th, 2025 | 08:00 AM
#38
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,173
Likes: 83
Dec 6 -
We woke to a high wind warning.
We walked to the train station and took the 9:26 am train to the historic village of Santa Maria Maggiore, a journey of about 45 minutes. Today was the first day of the three day Christmas Market, which opened at 9:30 am.
As mentioned earlier, the Vigezzina-Centovalli railway line runs between Switzerland and Italy and the entire route from Domodosolla to Locarno covers 52 kilometers, crosses 83 bridges and goes through 31 tunnels.
https://www.vigezzinacentovalli.com/en/
We'd taken the entire journey last year, not realizing at the time that we were to be some of the last passengers on the historic train, as the rolling stock was replaced a few months later.
So today, we got to experience the new (much improved) train.
Weirdly, the train wasn’t full; we learned later that the trains for Saturday and Sunday were sold out.
We’d read that the first day of the market is the least crowded, and while busy, it wasn’t overly so, although all the places we popped our heads into for lunch were fully booked.
The pretty village was quiet at first, very pleasant; wandering musicians would stop and play for a while before moving on through the village. It struck me as a good place to base on a future trip.
https://www.illagomaggiore.com/en_US...maria-maggiore
Santa Maria Maggiore
We wandered the streets, made the rounds of some ~200 kiosks, checked out the various goods, and picked up a few gifts. We sampled the €2 Vin Brul and the €1 paper thin crepes served with butter and salt (crespelle?).
Santa Maria Maggiore
Santa Maria Maggiore
Santa Maria Maggiore
Santa Maria Maggiore
Santa Maria Maggiore
Santa Maria Maggiore
Santa Maria Maggiore
Santa Maria Maggiore
Santa Maria Maggiore
Santa Maria Maggiore
Santa Maria Maggiore
Unable to find a seat in a restaurant, we joined the queue at a food and drinks kiosk, where I placed our orders while Bill found a spot to stand at the tables set up under a long tent. Panino con salamburger for Bill (€6), gnocchi degli alpine for me (€8), washed down with €1 white wine, not a culinary highlight, but not bad.
Santa Maria Maggiore
I’d read that there was very little sun in this valley in winter, so we’d worn our fleece lined pants, our fleece jackets and our coats. We’d also brought our hats, neck gaiters and gloves, but it wasn’t very cold, even though Santa Maria Maggiore is some 600 meters higher than Domodossola, where it reached 50F today.
But as the day wore on, the wind became fierce. Strong gusts knocked over signs, sent hats skittering and a temporary tent next to a restaurant took flight. It was wild.
Our return train was busy, but not full. An Italian nonna had pinched one of our reserved seats, the reservation sticker mysteriously disappearing, so we had to sit backwards the entire trip. We didn’t say anything, but we both smelled a rat.
I really enjoyed Santa Maria Maggiore and while Christmas Markets aren’t Bill’s idea of fun, he's a good guy and usually willing to humor me, as long as food/drink are involved.
Back in Domodossola, I stopped at a gelato shop near the train station for a quick fix, then it was back to the apartment to do laundry and have a drink on the patio before the sun disappeared.
Dinner that evening was at Origano; salame picante pizza for Bill, Bufalina pizza for me, sparkling water, €25.20 including €3.80 coperto.
To be continued....
We woke to a high wind warning.
We walked to the train station and took the 9:26 am train to the historic village of Santa Maria Maggiore, a journey of about 45 minutes. Today was the first day of the three day Christmas Market, which opened at 9:30 am.
As mentioned earlier, the Vigezzina-Centovalli railway line runs between Switzerland and Italy and the entire route from Domodosolla to Locarno covers 52 kilometers, crosses 83 bridges and goes through 31 tunnels.
https://www.vigezzinacentovalli.com/en/
We'd taken the entire journey last year, not realizing at the time that we were to be some of the last passengers on the historic train, as the rolling stock was replaced a few months later.
So today, we got to experience the new (much improved) train.
Weirdly, the train wasn’t full; we learned later that the trains for Saturday and Sunday were sold out.
We’d read that the first day of the market is the least crowded, and while busy, it wasn’t overly so, although all the places we popped our heads into for lunch were fully booked.
The pretty village was quiet at first, very pleasant; wandering musicians would stop and play for a while before moving on through the village. It struck me as a good place to base on a future trip.
https://www.illagomaggiore.com/en_US...maria-maggiore
Santa Maria Maggiore
We wandered the streets, made the rounds of some ~200 kiosks, checked out the various goods, and picked up a few gifts. We sampled the €2 Vin Brul and the €1 paper thin crepes served with butter and salt (crespelle?).
Santa Maria Maggiore
Santa Maria Maggiore
Santa Maria Maggiore
Santa Maria Maggiore
Santa Maria Maggiore
Santa Maria Maggiore
Santa Maria Maggiore
Santa Maria Maggiore
Santa Maria Maggiore
Santa Maria Maggiore
Santa Maria Maggiore
Unable to find a seat in a restaurant, we joined the queue at a food and drinks kiosk, where I placed our orders while Bill found a spot to stand at the tables set up under a long tent. Panino con salamburger for Bill (€6), gnocchi degli alpine for me (€8), washed down with €1 white wine, not a culinary highlight, but not bad.
Santa Maria Maggiore
I’d read that there was very little sun in this valley in winter, so we’d worn our fleece lined pants, our fleece jackets and our coats. We’d also brought our hats, neck gaiters and gloves, but it wasn’t very cold, even though Santa Maria Maggiore is some 600 meters higher than Domodossola, where it reached 50F today.
But as the day wore on, the wind became fierce. Strong gusts knocked over signs, sent hats skittering and a temporary tent next to a restaurant took flight. It was wild.
Our return train was busy, but not full. An Italian nonna had pinched one of our reserved seats, the reservation sticker mysteriously disappearing, so we had to sit backwards the entire trip. We didn’t say anything, but we both smelled a rat.
I really enjoyed Santa Maria Maggiore and while Christmas Markets aren’t Bill’s idea of fun, he's a good guy and usually willing to humor me, as long as food/drink are involved.
Back in Domodossola, I stopped at a gelato shop near the train station for a quick fix, then it was back to the apartment to do laundry and have a drink on the patio before the sun disappeared.
Dinner that evening was at Origano; salame picante pizza for Bill, Bufalina pizza for me, sparkling water, €25.20 including €3.80 coperto.
To be continued....
Last edited by Melnq8; Feb 9th, 2025 at 08:07 AM.
Feb 9th, 2025 | 10:25 AM
#40
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 4,298
Likes: 19
So bustling and lively.
Your comment about lunch being booked out is duly noted (if we do Christmas markets this year)
I remember adding that town to my list of places we could visit while we were in Stresa and/ or Locarno.
My list was way too long and even with 16 days we missed so much.
There are many little places that looked enticing, plus there’s a chimney sweep museum that was on my to do list https://www.museospazzacamino.it/Museum/EN-6ef08400
Your comment about lunch being booked out is duly noted (if we do Christmas markets this year)
I remember adding that town to my list of places we could visit while we were in Stresa and/ or Locarno.
My list was way too long and even with 16 days we missed so much.
There are many little places that looked enticing, plus there’s a chimney sweep museum that was on my to do list https://www.museospazzacamino.it/Museum/EN-6ef08400
