A Fabulous Time in Croatia!

Old Aug 12th, 2021, 11:41 AM
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A Fabulous Time in Croatia!

I have been back from Croatia for a little over a month and we had a wonderful time! I want to thank everyone who helped me to plan such an extraordinary trip, especially rialtogrl who went above and beyond! The trip reports of MinnBeef, KarenWoo and tera_denten ….. The trip reports written by KarenWoo, MinnesotaBeef and … were also extremely helpful.

I am not great at writing long trip reports, so I will just give you the highlights, however, I will answer any question future travelers have from now until eternity!

We departed New York on June 24 on Air France through Paris. It was a Delta ticket co-shared with Air France. We both have Platinum status on Delta so we were upgraded to Business which was very nice. We landed in Dubrovnik at about 5:00 pm on June 25 and were picked up by a driver from our hotel. Wonderful drive and views on the way to Hotel Excelsior.

Oh, just to let you know, we were asked for COVID Vax card at JFK, but were not asked for our PCR test which we had just in case. We were also not asked for the form that we had to fill out for the Croatian government. We did not have to show anything when transiting through Paris, and believe it or not, we were not asked for PCR test of COVID Vax card when we landed in Dubrovnik. I was actually not happy about this to tell you the truth. Not sure if we were the anomaly.

Highlights of Dubrovnik

Hotel

Loved Hotel Excelsior! Wonderful modern hotel with stunning views of the Walls of the Old City. While you are not in the Old City, it is literally just a quick 5 minute walk to the gates to enter. They have a wonderful pool and beach. Swimming is easy breezy. The restaurants and lounge areas are amazing. Great food and cocktails. Wonderful a la carte and buffet breakfast is included in the price.

June 24

Fave Things to Do

Guided Walking Tour

We had an amazing ½ day guided walking tour through Old Town on our first day. This was a great way to get acclimated and to understand the history a bit more, which served us well for the remainder of our time in Dubrovnik. It’s just so good to be able to put things in perspective, to understand all of the different empires throughout history that ruled the area, and of course, learn about the last Croatian war. We used Julija Antunovic as our guide and she was excellent. Easy going personality, very knowledgeable, friendly, funny, and able to pivot when we wanted to make changes. The Old Town is just a joy to explore. We were in an old multiple times a day during our 4 nights in Dubrovnik.

Full Day at Bowa Dubrovnik

OMG! This was a fabulous day! Bowa Dubrovnik is a private island with a wonderful restaurant. You have to arrive there by boat. You can either go for lunch or spend the entire day eating and swimming like we did. You can rent the number of beach chairs you want or a private cabana. We did the private cabana and loved it! It included a beautiful large table for dining and two nice sun chairs. Champagne, wine and a 6 course tasting menu is also included. You can choose when to eat and how many courses you want at a time. The food is amazing. In fact, the restaurant is rated #1 on TA for all restaurants in Dubrovnik. So if you do not want to come and spend the day at the beach, definitely consider it for lunch. You will not regret it. Why? Because it is astonishingly beautiful! Just gorgeous. They have a private boat that brings you to the island. You can drive to the deck or be picked up from your hotel. We left at 9:45 AM and arrived on the island at 11:00 AM and stayed until the last boat takes you back at 6:00 PM. We ate, drank great Croatian wine and champagne, ate amazingly well, swam and napped. The service was perfect allowing us to have everything we needed but the privacy we needed as well. It was a great day!

Mount Srd

We really enjoyed taking the cable car up to Mount Srd. We did so after our walking tour. Actually, we had lunch first and people walked and then leisurely walked over to the ticket booth. The ride up was fun and fast! The views, of course, are breathtaking! There is a viewing deck where you can get magnificent pictures of the whole Old Town and way beyond. The other thing that is there is a wonderful little museum on the Croatian War. The photos are haunting and devastating, as are some of the artifacts from the war, but I really do think it is essential to know this very recent history. This, combined with the fact that our tour guide remembers leaving her house for an entire year during the war, really helped us to understand what the Croatian people went through not that long ago. In my opinion, this museum is a must stop. After that, we had a nice charcuterie plate and cocktails at the Panorama, their wonderful mountain top restaurant. We could not have had a better seat! Literally on the edge of the mountain with the most spectacular views. We literally sat there thinking “it cannot get better than this!” Once back down, we leisurely strolled back to our hotel where we relaxed before dinner.



The view from our hotel to Oldtown.

A beautiful street in Oldtown.

Charcuterie plate at Panorama restaurant on Mt. Srd.

Gorgeous view from Mt. Srd.

Dubrovnik nights on the way to dinner.

Fabulous seafood platter at Portun restaurant.

This black risotto with cuttlefish at Portun was beyond!

Yes Mussels too at Portun!

Lastly, a fabulous octopus salad at Portun.


Day Trip to Montenegro

This was a great day as well. We used the same tour guide who toured us through Old Town. We started out at about 8:30 AM and we went to three towns in Montenegro — Perast, Kotor and Herceg Novi. Of course, you must pass the border into Montenegro and they did stamp our passports and look at our COVID Vax cards. And as you can imagine, the Bay of Kotor is stunning! The drive was pleasant, scenic and we were told the pertinent history as we were driving. Our first stop was Herceg Novi. On the way into town, we saw our first Communist era apartment blocks. As soon as you see them, you know that they are from that era. After we parked, we wondered through this small but charming town. We did not stay more than about 40 minutes but it was worth it. The Highlight was wondering from the main square down through small alleyways filled with charming local houses and watching normal life go by. It was Sunday and while walking, we came across a beautiful church where the choir was singing the most beautiful hymns. We stood outside and just took it all in. It was magical.

Next we drove to Kotor, which was my favorite. Our guide hired a local guide to take us around. It was so hot, I said that I wanted the tour to only last 30-45 minutes max. But once we met her inside one of the squares and starting to walk around, I changed my mind! Kotor is simply gorgeous! I literally kept saying that each time we rounded a corner, it was life receiving a present! Learning about how the Montenegrin people kept themselves safe within the walls while constantly being attacked was interesting. Also was understanding the lifestyles of the families who lived in the largest homes vs. those residing in smaller places. At the end of the tour, we asked the guide to to take us to a charming restaurant where we could have a drink and a snack and people watch. She took us to the perfect place — a small boutique hotel with beautiful gardens and a lovely terrace. It was a nice way to end our time in Kotor.

We ended in the village of Perast, which is just beautiful. It’s teeny tiny but well worth a visit. Though we did not eat lunch in this village, they looked to have a few very good restaurants. They call this village “mini Venice.” Most of the buildings are white with red-tiled roofs and up against the blue water and majestic mountains, the scenery is spectacular! The major landmark is Our Lady of the Rocks which is on islet of the main street that houses a small Catholic Church, museum and gift store. There are a few companies that operate boats to take you back and forth. It only takes about 10 minutes to cross over. The day we visited it was very busy and their were lines to go into the church. However, it was nice to see the views from the islet and take photos. Once back we left to go to lunch and it was memorable!

While I had asked our tour guide to make a reservation at a highly-rated restaurant in Kotor, she asked me to trust her and try a restaurant in another town. She said it would be a wonderful experience and that all of her clients loved it. Sold! We ended up eating at Kanova Catovica Mlini in Morinj Bowa Kotorska and it did not disappoint. It is a lovely and scenic restaurant located on an old saw mill. The property is breathtaking, with creeks with ducks, walking trails, greenery and flowers all set against those beautiful mountains. The food and wine is fantastic and the service was perfect. We had a long, leisurely scrumptious lunch. It was a perfect ending to a great day. I highly recommend a day trip to Montenegro and there are many more wonderful villages to choose to visit.
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Old Aug 12th, 2021, 01:11 PM
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Nice trip report! It sounds fantastic. Glad you had a good time and stay healthy!
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Old Aug 12th, 2021, 05:07 PM
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Beautiful pictures!
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Old Aug 12th, 2021, 08:14 PM
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Great TR! Looking forward to more!
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Old Aug 13th, 2021, 10:50 AM
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Loving the report and the photos, especially the food! Can’t wait to get there ourselves this autumn. More please!!
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Old Aug 13th, 2021, 12:37 PM
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Excellent report and lovely photos. Thanks for all the details.
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Old Aug 13th, 2021, 02:35 PM
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Hey Lolazahra, I just saw this and am enjoying both reliving the parts of my trip where we overlapped as well as experiences that I didn’t have like BOWA Dubrovnik (sun, food and wine, napping on the beach- what’s not to love!?) and Montenegro. Looking forward to reading more about your trip.

Re. your COVID test experience at the Dubrovnik border and not being asked to show something, hopefully that was anamoly. Of course when I went last September there was no vaccine. The option was a PCR test and the requirement was it had to be no more than 48 hours old from the time they stuck the swab up into my brain until I showed up at customs in Dubrovnik. Not easy to do! I ended up calling my clinic the moment the clock struck 8:00 am in Minneapolis (3:00 pm in Munich where I was an hour away from boarding my flight to Dubrovnik and getting nervous.). The clinic emailed me the results. When I got to the border in Dubrovnik, the customs agent gave me grief for not having it printed out! I explained to him the grief I WENT THROUGH to get this on time in order to come to their beautiful country. He had me email him the test, expecting to print it out himself. After 10 minutes of him not being able to print it out (password protected maybe??) he finally just waved me through.

Looking forward to reading more! I leave for Venice and then Sicily next week, so reading others’ trip reports on anywhere in Europe is really getting me extra excited!
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Old Aug 13th, 2021, 11:01 PM
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I am so happy you enjoyed and look forward to more. I believe most people are being asked for their vaccine card or test but often times NOT the form. Also you are lucky you came when you did, Now, Dalmatia is crazy busy. The coast of Montenegro and Bay of Kotor too. It’s like they suddenly went from 0 to 60.You would not be able to take that picture of an empty Dubrovnik now!

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Old Aug 15th, 2021, 08:46 AM
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Thank you for taking the time to share. We visited a couple of weeks after you and have similar impressions of both Dubrovnik and the Bay of Kotor. We'll keep Bowa in mind for a future visit; the food and wine all over Croatia is so good that it is hard to go wrong though. We were asked for vaccination cards both at Zagreb Airport and at the border crossing returning from Montenegro. They didn't ask for the entry form receipt, but I understood they are able to see it on their computer. Someone in line ahead of us at the airport may not have completed it before arriving, as the agent asked for a paper copy and was taken outside of the line when she couldn't produce it.
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Old Aug 16th, 2021, 05:00 AM
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Sounds fabulous, Lolazahra! What a great trip! Looking forward to more!
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Old Aug 16th, 2021, 07:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Lolazahra View Post
I have been back from Croatia for a little over a month and we had a wonderful time! I want to thank everyone who helped me to plan such an extraordinary trip, especially rialtogrl who went above and beyond! The trip reports of MinnBeef, KarenWoo and tera_denten ….. The trip reports written by KarenWoo, MinnesotaBeef and … were also extremely helpful.

I am not great at writing long trip reports, so I will just give you the highlights, however, I will answer any question future travelers have from now until eternity!

We departed New York on June 24 on Air France through Paris. It was a Delta ticket co-shared with Air France. We both have Platinum status on Delta so we were upgraded to Business which was very nice. We landed in Dubrovnik at about 5:00 pm on June 25 and were picked up by a driver from our hotel. Wonderful drive and views on the way to Hotel Excelsior.

Oh, just to let you know, we were asked for COVID Vax card at JFK, but were not asked for our PCR test which we had just in case. We were also not asked for the form that we had to fill out for the Croatian government. We did not have to show anything when transiting through Paris, and believe it or not, we were not asked for PCR test of COVID Vax card when we landed in Dubrovnik. I was actually not happy about this to tell you the truth. Not sure if we were the anomaly.

Highlights of Dubrovnik

Hotel

Loved Hotel Excelsior! Wonderful modern hotel with stunning views of the Walls of the Old City. While you are not in the Old City, it is literally just a quick 5 minute walk to the gates to enter. They have a wonderful pool and beach. Swimming is easy breezy. The restaurants and lounge areas are amazing. Great food and cocktails. Wonderful a la carte and buffet breakfast is included in the price.

June 24

Fave Things to Do

Guided Walking Tour

We had an amazing ½ day guided walking tour through Old Town on our first day. This was a great way to get acclimated and to understand the history a bit more, which served us well for the remainder of our time in Dubrovnik. It’s just so good to be able to put things in perspective, to understand all of the different empires throughout history that ruled the area, and of course, learn about the last Croatian war. We used Julija Antunovic as our guide and she was excellent. Easy going personality, very knowledgeable, friendly, funny, and able to pivot when we wanted to make changes. The Old Town is just a joy to explore. We were in an old multiple times a day during our 4 nights in Dubrovnik.

Full Day at Bowa Dubrovnik

OMG! This was a fabulous day! Bowa Dubrovnik is a private island with a wonderful restaurant. You have to arrive there by boat. You can either go for lunch or spend the entire day eating and swimming like we did. You can rent the number of beach chairs you want or a private cabana. We did the private cabana and loved it! It included a beautiful large table for dining and two nice sun chairs. Champagne, wine and a 6 course tasting menu is also included. You can choose when to eat and how many courses you want at a time. The food is amazing. In fact, the restaurant is rated #1 on TA for all restaurants in Dubrovnik. So if you do not want to come and spend the day at the beach, definitely consider it for lunch. You will not regret it. Why? Because it is astonishingly beautiful! Just gorgeous. They have a private boat that brings you to the island. You can drive to the deck or be picked up from your hotel. We left at 9:45 AM and arrived on the island at 11:00 AM and stayed until the last boat takes you back at 6:00 PM. We ate, drank great Croatian wine and champagne, ate amazingly well, swam and napped. The service was perfect allowing us to have everything we needed but the privacy we needed as well. It was a great day!

Mount Srd

We really enjoyed taking the cable car up to Mount Srd. We did so after our walking tour. Actually, we had lunch first and people walked and then leisurely walked over to the ticket booth. The ride up was fun and fast! The views, of course, are breathtaking! There is a viewing deck where you can get magnificent pictures of the whole Old Town and way beyond. The other thing that is there is a wonderful little museum on the Croatian War. The photos are haunting and devastating, as are some of the artifacts from the war, but I really do think it is essential to know this very recent history. This, combined with the fact that our tour guide remembers leaving her house for an entire year during the war, really helped us to understand what the Croatian people went through not that long ago. In my opinion, this museum is a must stop. After that, we had a nice charcuterie plate and cocktails at the Panorama, their wonderful mountain top restaurant. We could not have had a better seat! Literally on the edge of the mountain with the most spectacular views. We literally sat there thinking “it cannot get better than this!” Once back down, we leisurely strolled back to our hotel where we relaxed before dinner.



The view from our hotel to Oldtown.

A beautiful street in Oldtown.

Charcuterie plate at Panorama restaurant on Mt. Srd.

Gorgeous view from Mt. Srd.

Dubrovnik nights on the way to dinner.

Fabulous seafood platter at Portun restaurant.

This black risotto with cuttlefish at Portun was beyond!

Yes Mussels too at Portun!

Lastly, a fabulous octopus salad at Portun.


Day Trip to Montenegro

This was a great day as well. We used the same tour guide who toured us through Old Town. We started out at about 8:30 AM and we went to three towns in Montenegro — Perast, Kotor and Herceg Novi. Of course, you must pass the border into Montenegro and they did stamp our passports and look at our COVID Vax cards. And as you can imagine, the Bay of Kotor is stunning! The drive was pleasant, scenic and we were told the pertinent history as we were driving. Our first stop was Herceg Novi. On the way into town, we saw our first Communist era apartment blocks. As soon as you see them, you know that they are from that era. After we parked, we wondered through this small but charming town. We did not stay more than about 40 minutes but it was worth it. The Highlight was wondering from the main square down through small alleyways filled with charming local houses and watching normal life go by. It was Sunday and while walking, we came across a beautiful church where the choir was singing the most beautiful hymns. We stood outside and just took it all in. It was magical.

Next we drove to Kotor, which was my favorite. Our guide hired a local guide to take us around. It was so hot, I said that I wanted the tour to only last 30-45 minutes max. But once we met her inside one of the squares and starting to walk around, I changed my mind! Kotor is simply gorgeous! I literally kept saying that each time we rounded a corner, it was life receiving a present! Learning about how the Montenegrin people kept themselves safe within the walls while constantly being attacked was interesting. Also was understanding the lifestyles of the families who lived in the largest homes vs. those residing in smaller places. At the end of the tour, we asked the guide to to take us to a charming restaurant where we could have a drink and a snack and people watch. She took us to the perfect place — a small boutique hotel with beautiful gardens and a lovely terrace. It was a nice way to end our time in Kotor.

We ended in the village of Perast, which is just beautiful. It’s teeny tiny but well worth a visit. Though we did not eat lunch in this village, they looked to have a few very good restaurants. They call this village “mini Venice.” Most of the buildings are white with red-tiled roofs and up against the blue water and majestic mountains, the scenery is spectacular! The major landmark is Our Lady of the Rocks which is on islet of the main street that houses a small Catholic Church, museum and gift store. There are a few companies that operate boats to take you back and forth. It only takes about 10 minutes to cross over. The day we visited it was very busy and their were lines to go into the church. However, it was nice to see the views from the islet and take photos. Once back we left to go to lunch and it was memorable!

While I had asked our tour guide to make a reservation at a highly-rated restaurant in Kotor, she asked me to trust her and try a restaurant in another town. She said it would be a wonderful experience and that all of her clients loved it. Sold! We ended up eating at Kanova Catovica Mlini in Morinj Bowa Kotorska and it did not disappoint. It is a lovely and scenic restaurant located on an old saw mill. The property is breathtaking, with creeks with ducks, walking trails, greenery and flowers all set against those beautiful mountains. The food and wine is fantastic and the service was perfect. We had a long, leisurely scrumptious lunch. It was a perfect ending to a great day. I highly recommend a day trip to Montenegro and there are many more wonderful villages to choose to visit.
I love your photos & trip report! Thank you for mentioning my name. I am happy to know my trip report was helpful to you.
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Old Aug 19th, 2021, 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by kleeblatt View Post
Nice trip report! It sounds fantastic. Glad you had a good time and stay healthy!
Thank you! I plan on reporting on Hvar and Split soon!
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Old Aug 19th, 2021, 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by russ_in_LA View Post
Loving the report and the photos, especially the food! Can’t wait to get there ourselves this autumn. More please!!
Hi there — so excited that you are going. Will do next installment ASAP. I traveled again and got distracted. Just finishing up two weeks in Martha’s Vineyard which has been awesome!
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Old Aug 19th, 2021, 10:33 AM
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KarenWoo, your report was so helpful!
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Old Aug 19th, 2021, 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by progol View Post
Sounds fabulous, Lolazahra! What a great trip! Looking forward to more!
Will get going on more ASAP! Are you getting excited???!!!
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Old Aug 19th, 2021, 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by rialtogrl View Post
I am so happy you enjoyed and look forward to more. I believe most people are being asked for their vaccine card or test but often times NOT the form. Also you are lucky you came when you did, Now, Dalmatia is crazy busy. The coast of Montenegro and Bay of Kotor too. It’s like they suddenly went from 0 to 60.You would not be able to take that picture of an empty Dubrovnik now!
rialtogrl, so glad we traveled when we did. In regular, non-COVID times, when would you suggest you travel if you want good weather but to beat the crowds? I would love to come back soon but know that I could not handle the crowds. Thanks!
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Old Aug 19th, 2021, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by MinnBeef View Post
Hey Lolazahra, I just saw this and am enjoying both reliving the parts of my trip where we overlapped as well as experiences that I didn’t have like BOWA Dubrovnik (sun, food and wine, napping on the beach- what’s not to love!?) and Montenegro. Looking forward to reading more about your trip.

Re. your COVID test experience at the Dubrovnik border and not being asked to show something, hopefully that was anamoly. Of course when I went last September there was no vaccine. The option was a PCR test and the requirement was it had to be no more than 48 hours old from the time they stuck the swab up into my brain until I showed up at customs in Dubrovnik. Not easy to do! I ended up calling my clinic the moment the clock struck 8:00 am in Minneapolis (3:00 pm in Munich where I was an hour away from boarding my flight to Dubrovnik and getting nervous.). The clinic emailed me the results. When I got to the border in Dubrovnik, the customs agent gave me grief for not having it printed out! I explained to him the grief I WENT THROUGH to get this on time in order to come to their beautiful country. He had me email him the test, expecting to print it out himself. After 10 minutes of him not being able to print it out (password protected maybe??) he finally just waved me through.

Looking forward to reading more! I leave for Venice and then Sicily next week, so reading others’ trip reports on anywhere in Europe is really getting me extra excited!
So excited for your trip. Looking forward to reading about it. I will post more soon!
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Old Aug 19th, 2021, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Lolazahra View Post
Will get going on more ASAP! Are you getting excited???!!!
Truly, I wish I could say I was getting excited. Right now, with the rising levels of covid everywhere and the general uncertainty about travel, I’m just holding my breath. We are still planning to travel but have talked about the possibility of canceling - but not ready to do that yet! Waiting to see what the EU recommends at the end of the month and what the countries decide to do. Trying to understand what our risk levels are for travel. I will get excited once we are really on our way, assuming we do go!

I don’t mean to be a downer and am enjoying your report!

Last edited by progol; Aug 19th, 2021 at 12:44 PM.
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Old Aug 19th, 2021, 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Lolazahra View Post
rialtogrl, so glad we traveled when we did. In regular, non-COVID times, when would you suggest you travel if you want good weather but to beat the crowds? I would love to come back soon but know that I could not handle the crowds. Thanks!
I would say do not come in summer… I think my favorite time is end of September and early October. But last year end of September was super stormy in Dalmatia. I also love May but even then weather can be volatile. April can be glorious! But as long as you do not come between June 15 and September 15, it will not be terribly crowded.. I’m talking about the islands and coast, inland is a different story..
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Old Sep 26th, 2021, 09:01 AM
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Hi guys! So sorry for the big delay in my trip report. Life got in the way. I totally get why it can be better to write as you are going. And to be truthful, I have been back to Europe for 9 days recently when I took my daughter to university in Paris. But I am determined to finish the next city we visited in Croatia which was Hvar!

Highlights of Hvar

June 29

Transportation

We drove to Hvar and it was lots of fun. We had a car dropped off at our hotel at 7:00 am by Mack Rental. The car was great but truth be told it was dropped off late, so more like 8:00 am. The guy was extremely apologetic but if I had not called him, he would have slept through our drop-off. I would still use them again though as I think this was an anomaly and the convenience of the hotel drop off and the caliber of the car could not be beat.

On the way to Drvenik to take the car ferry to Sucuraj, we stoped in Ston and Mali Ston. The highlight was going out on a boat with an oyster fisherman. He was a character and being out on the water, eating fresh oysters right from the sea and drinking local white wine at 9:30 am in the morning was fantastic.

Once back, we drove straight to Drvenik which was a beautiful, easy drive. We used Maps on the iPhone and it was perfect. It was interesting to pass through Bosnia and Herzegovina on the way and they checked passports and our COVID vax card. Getting in line for the ferry was easy breezy, but it is true that people start arriving an hour early. We bought our tickets in advance online but you are still not guaranteed to get on the ferry you want if you do not arrive on time. We had time to get snack and walk around before getting in line.

When we arrived in Hvar, we stopped two places as we drove to our hotel. And by the way, the drive from Sucuraj to Hvar Town is pretty spectacular — winding roads and views for days! We stopped at Radojkovic Olive Oil which was lots of fun. Great lesson on olive oil production and a great tasting with wine. The olive oil was really amazing and I bought a lot. I am using them and have been giving them away as hostess gifts which everyone loves! We then stopped Malo Grablje which is an abandoned uninhabited settle. It was interesting but we could have missed it. We did have a rustic meal with locals at the only opened restaurant in the village.

Hotel

We stayed at the Palace Elisabeth which is gorgeous! It is located right in the middle of the town directly in front of the water. The location could not be beat and the service was spectacular. Of note were the fabulous breakfasts with a great Bloody Mary menu. The breakfast terrace is just incredibly beautiful and a wonderful way to start the day. Our first hotel was very modern and this hotel is very old school glamour so it was a nice change.

Fave Things to Do

June 30

Fun Drive Around the Island

We had a great day taking the car out and driving around the island stopping in three different towns. The views were so spectacular and there were lots of places to pull over to take in the views and take pictures. We stopped in Vrboska, Jelsa and Stari Grad. The highlight was driving to Stari Grad taking the road to Brusie. Wow! The views are to die for – I am mean really, really special! rialtogrl suggested we take this route and I am so glad that we did. We also spent the most time in Stari Grad. We went into a sweet little lavender shop and bought gifts to bring home, strolled in and out of other shops and had a fabulous lunch at Pinetta. Fabulous whole fish and an amazing seafood pasta. The town is beautiful and we enjoyed it a lot. In Jelsa, we wanted to wine taste at Caric but they closed early. It’s a gorgeous wine room, so if you can make it you will probably have a nice time. Instead, we went to another place down the street with an outside tasting room. I have forgotten the name and it’s a shame because it was lovely. Hvar Island is very special. I highly recommend going with a car or renting a car for at least a day to explore! Also, worth noting was our dinner that night at Dalmatino. The truffle filet mignon was the best steak I have ever had! Divine!

July 1

Day at the Beach

We enjoyed a full day at Beach Club Hvar. Interestedly, I did not know that it was affiliated with our hotel as anyone can rent chairs or cabanas for the day. We rented a beautiful seafront private cabana and relaxed the entire day. It is definitely upscale and luxe so if you are looking for a more casual and buzzy atmosphere, this is not your place. But it was perfect for us! We read, slept, jumped into the sea several times for wonderful swims and ate really well. The food is fantastic and there is a great wine list. The service is perfect as they are there when you need them, but leave you to yourself for ultimate privacy. It was a perfect lazy and wonderful day. We really enjoyed it! That night we ate at Fig. It lived up to its reputation!

July 2

Day at Sea

Today we took a private boat out to sea. Another great recommendation from Rialtogrl was Hvar Boats. We did everything online and ended up with a perfect boat for two with a captain and extra helper. We did not have an itinerary in mind and just described what we were looking for when we got onboard. We wanted to stop at small beautiful islands, secluded coves for swimming and wanted to have a great long leisurely lunch. I am so sorry because while I have some great pictures, I did not keep track of where we stopped but I will say that our wishes were more than fulfilled! We brought wine and snacks on board, we were able to hook up music from our phone, and had the most relaxing time. We stopped about 4 times to explore and swim and went to a restaurant for lunch that has the only underground wine cellar. We picked out a couple of lobsters and a whole fish and enjoyed a bottle of crisp Croatian white wine. It was a perfect day. One point to make about Hvar Boats is that you reserve with a small credit card deposit but you pay the rest in cash at the dock prior to going out to sea. So having cash on you is a must. I highly recommend.

Final thoughts is that Hvar was wonderful. To this end, we are well aware that because of COVID, we missed the crazy crowds. I do not know how much I would like it if there were more people than there already was. I also wanted to mention that every night we had a nightcap at Central Park Club which was next door to our hotel. Loved it! Live music every night playing old school hits, great drinks and a great vibe. I liked it more than some of the trendy bars that we tried. We closed it out every night. Now I must say things closed at midnight because of COVID. Not sure I would close it out otherwise, lol! Next stop is Split!


Last edited by Lolazahra; Sep 26th, 2021 at 09:24 AM.
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