A bit MORE of the Camino de Santiago
Aug 30th, 2014, 04:48 AM
#21
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Note to all pilgrims: Pay for your room when you check in, even if they don´t ask you to. I don't know what this receptionist ( multi-tasker also running the restaurant) was thinking.. but, he wasn't running the financial side of the hotel very well for the owner.
I paid for my room when I arrived after dinner so as not to be bothered later. But my colleagues were unable to as they arrived much later.
Our plan was to leave around 6 a.m. and trek forward. But those good intentions all came to an end when there was no one downstairs to pay for their rooms. This place didn´t even take a CC to guarantee them, plus, since my friends were shipping their luggage forward each day to the next place with the wonderful Xacotrans service, they understandably did not want to leave three suitcases in the dark vestibule until the receptionist arrived... which we realized would probably not be until 7 a.m.
So two of us left looking for a breakfast place or open bread store, to no avail. In spite of being a heavily travelled pilgrim stopover, in our part of town there were no services for any early birds.
We were later on the road as soon as Mr. Receptionist/ Restaurnat manager arrived. For some reason we assumed he was living in the same building, as there was a cell phone number to call and everything, but he never answered it. It worked out well for everyone. The hotel got their money ( which I highly doubt someone wearing a knapsack would have waited to do) and the suitcases were well guarded ..and it proved to us how patient pilgrims learn to be!!! LOL!!
Today we are walking to Padrón.. 18 km. This is a very easy amount for me to walk. 15, 18, 20 kms and I am fine. More than that I need to rest more or have cooler weather. Remember, I am not a "walker" and do not "train" for this short journey. I just go to have a good time, see new scenery, eat good food and hopefully forge new friendships and put myself into a more desirable mind frame for my personal life.
This day of walking was absolutely beautiful.. alongside fields of hay, cabbages, vineyards.. walking under trellises of green unripe grapes.. with lovely rolling hills and cool, shaded forest trails most of the way. I enjoyed chatting with some of the local owners while they were in their fields either cutting and collecting a huge patch of hay for their animals or watering some vegetable garden by hand because it hadn´t rained for weeks, which is quite unusual in that area. The one couple cutting hay allowed me to take their picture although they couldn't understand why everyone wanted a picture of them and commented they must be famous by now.. known across the globe!
The absence of farm animals on this trail compared to the popular French trail was quite obvious. Of course I had forgotten how close we were to the sea and most families here made their money in the fishing industry. .. and many did quite well for themselves by the look of some of the well built houses in the small towns. Whatever animals they own are for personal consumption. I saw a couple sheep and chickens. Not much else to document on this trail as far as animals go. On the French trail you actually have to step aside at times as mama leads a small herd of cows back to the barn for dinner!
A large group of Italians were also on the trail today. They would disembark from their bus at strategic places and once were having an outdoor mass in front of an old church. They would then walk 5-8 kms or so and be picked up by their bus and taken to their accommodations. They were very jovial and some were quite concerned when they came upon me resting with my backpack on off my back under a tree. I assured them with a smile I was just resting, but it is encouraging to know there is always someone to help you out should you need it.
I walked alone a lot as the day went on because although we started out together.. each person's stride and rhythm is different. I was going much slower also because I was very keen on documenting the trail in much more detail that I was dedicating to my cousin's son.. so i was getting out my phone and taking pictures constantly, which slowed me down.
I learned from the last time that this is just how it is. It is a nice feeling if everyone in your group agrees each person does his own thing and no hurt feelings if others don't slow down or speed up to be together. if you are not comfortable with that, best to find someone who will be sure to regulate themselves to you.. or you may have some difficult moments.
This evening I had decided to book a different place to stay from the group only because their hotel would not give me a reduced single rate and I found there were plenty of places for me to sleep as a single nearby at 1/5 the cost. I was really excited with my choice when the first hostal sign I saw as we approached Padrón was mine!
Hostal Flavia
I had a 10E -shared room with a bathroom across the hall and another one to the left. It was a mixed hostal but the owner ASSURED me she would not put a male in either of the two remaining beds. In fact.. she put no one there.
This hostal had a complete kitchen, washing machine, free laundry detergent, many clotheslines, a couple bathrooms with shower and bathtub, microwave and small library . It would have been a nice place to stay two nights or so and get re-energized and clean clothes if one had needed that. Downstairs was a popular highly rated typical restaurant with its own outdoor terrace and I was a 10 minute walk from cruiseluv. Good choice! Not luxurious and definitely not upgraded bathrooms, but more than sufficient for me.
After a relaxing shower and light nap I ventured into town to the tree-lined area next to the river for lunch. I caught up with my texts and posting photos through the free wifi you can find most anywhere. I called the group and we would meet up a little later. .. under the trees.. to soak up the pleasant atmosphere in this historic town.
http://www.galiciaguide.com/Padron.html
And here is my next suggestion to first-timers or those who have not been to this part of Spain before. Once in awhile take TWO nights in a nice town to actually get a better feel for the history of that town, if you can. Unless it is " all about the trail".. getting to actually go inside a monastery or museum and not just see most things from the outside, is rewarding. Too many times people RUSH along the trail, even walking several kms. in the dark where they cannot see a thing without their miner's lamp.. and then have not had time to visit anything once they get to town. Of course, perhaps they really don't want to, which is fine. But this is an important idea to keep in mind if you are doing a once-in-a-lifetime trip here. How fast or slow do you want to move through this area?
I tend to think a lot of people, when it is over, if they could do it again, might go a little slower and smell the hydrangeas or the hay a bit more.
And maybe that is what keeps us all coming back for more.
I paid for my room when I arrived after dinner so as not to be bothered later. But my colleagues were unable to as they arrived much later.
Our plan was to leave around 6 a.m. and trek forward. But those good intentions all came to an end when there was no one downstairs to pay for their rooms. This place didn´t even take a CC to guarantee them, plus, since my friends were shipping their luggage forward each day to the next place with the wonderful Xacotrans service, they understandably did not want to leave three suitcases in the dark vestibule until the receptionist arrived... which we realized would probably not be until 7 a.m.
So two of us left looking for a breakfast place or open bread store, to no avail. In spite of being a heavily travelled pilgrim stopover, in our part of town there were no services for any early birds.
We were later on the road as soon as Mr. Receptionist/ Restaurnat manager arrived. For some reason we assumed he was living in the same building, as there was a cell phone number to call and everything, but he never answered it. It worked out well for everyone. The hotel got their money ( which I highly doubt someone wearing a knapsack would have waited to do) and the suitcases were well guarded ..and it proved to us how patient pilgrims learn to be!!! LOL!!
Today we are walking to Padrón.. 18 km. This is a very easy amount for me to walk. 15, 18, 20 kms and I am fine. More than that I need to rest more or have cooler weather. Remember, I am not a "walker" and do not "train" for this short journey. I just go to have a good time, see new scenery, eat good food and hopefully forge new friendships and put myself into a more desirable mind frame for my personal life.
This day of walking was absolutely beautiful.. alongside fields of hay, cabbages, vineyards.. walking under trellises of green unripe grapes.. with lovely rolling hills and cool, shaded forest trails most of the way. I enjoyed chatting with some of the local owners while they were in their fields either cutting and collecting a huge patch of hay for their animals or watering some vegetable garden by hand because it hadn´t rained for weeks, which is quite unusual in that area. The one couple cutting hay allowed me to take their picture although they couldn't understand why everyone wanted a picture of them and commented they must be famous by now.. known across the globe!
The absence of farm animals on this trail compared to the popular French trail was quite obvious. Of course I had forgotten how close we were to the sea and most families here made their money in the fishing industry. .. and many did quite well for themselves by the look of some of the well built houses in the small towns. Whatever animals they own are for personal consumption. I saw a couple sheep and chickens. Not much else to document on this trail as far as animals go. On the French trail you actually have to step aside at times as mama leads a small herd of cows back to the barn for dinner!
A large group of Italians were also on the trail today. They would disembark from their bus at strategic places and once were having an outdoor mass in front of an old church. They would then walk 5-8 kms or so and be picked up by their bus and taken to their accommodations. They were very jovial and some were quite concerned when they came upon me resting with my backpack on off my back under a tree. I assured them with a smile I was just resting, but it is encouraging to know there is always someone to help you out should you need it.
I walked alone a lot as the day went on because although we started out together.. each person's stride and rhythm is different. I was going much slower also because I was very keen on documenting the trail in much more detail that I was dedicating to my cousin's son.. so i was getting out my phone and taking pictures constantly, which slowed me down.
I learned from the last time that this is just how it is. It is a nice feeling if everyone in your group agrees each person does his own thing and no hurt feelings if others don't slow down or speed up to be together. if you are not comfortable with that, best to find someone who will be sure to regulate themselves to you.. or you may have some difficult moments.
This evening I had decided to book a different place to stay from the group only because their hotel would not give me a reduced single rate and I found there were plenty of places for me to sleep as a single nearby at 1/5 the cost. I was really excited with my choice when the first hostal sign I saw as we approached Padrón was mine!
Hostal Flavia
I had a 10E -shared room with a bathroom across the hall and another one to the left. It was a mixed hostal but the owner ASSURED me she would not put a male in either of the two remaining beds. In fact.. she put no one there.
This hostal had a complete kitchen, washing machine, free laundry detergent, many clotheslines, a couple bathrooms with shower and bathtub, microwave and small library . It would have been a nice place to stay two nights or so and get re-energized and clean clothes if one had needed that. Downstairs was a popular highly rated typical restaurant with its own outdoor terrace and I was a 10 minute walk from cruiseluv. Good choice! Not luxurious and definitely not upgraded bathrooms, but more than sufficient for me.
After a relaxing shower and light nap I ventured into town to the tree-lined area next to the river for lunch. I caught up with my texts and posting photos through the free wifi you can find most anywhere. I called the group and we would meet up a little later. .. under the trees.. to soak up the pleasant atmosphere in this historic town.
http://www.galiciaguide.com/Padron.html
And here is my next suggestion to first-timers or those who have not been to this part of Spain before. Once in awhile take TWO nights in a nice town to actually get a better feel for the history of that town, if you can. Unless it is " all about the trail".. getting to actually go inside a monastery or museum and not just see most things from the outside, is rewarding. Too many times people RUSH along the trail, even walking several kms. in the dark where they cannot see a thing without their miner's lamp.. and then have not had time to visit anything once they get to town. Of course, perhaps they really don't want to, which is fine. But this is an important idea to keep in mind if you are doing a once-in-a-lifetime trip here. How fast or slow do you want to move through this area?
I tend to think a lot of people, when it is over, if they could do it again, might go a little slower and smell the hydrangeas or the hay a bit more.
And maybe that is what keeps us all coming back for more.
Aug 30th, 2014, 02:40 PM
#22
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I say those previous comments as you do see mostly one-night stands. This may be because so many people have not very many vacation days, so I say.. if you DO have extra days.. maybe pick a popular or quaint town or nice country inn along the way to sit back and kick off those boots!
Cruiseluv.. I am not criticizing your plan.. don't want you to think that! ( We had no miner's lamps.. so I hope you realize I was not referring to us!). I found my husband's trip the same.. one night stands. I think next time I may add a night here and there to make it two. On a short trip like mine this time, it would be "unnecessary" to sit back and relax more than I did.. but a much longer journey would merit more "down" time, in MY opinion.. just something to keep in mind if planning to come over.
Cruiseluv.. I am not criticizing your plan.. don't want you to think that! ( We had no miner's lamps.. so I hope you realize I was not referring to us!). I found my husband's trip the same.. one night stands. I think next time I may add a night here and there to make it two. On a short trip like mine this time, it would be "unnecessary" to sit back and relax more than I did.. but a much longer journey would merit more "down" time, in MY opinion.. just something to keep in mind if planning to come over.
Aug 31st, 2014, 02:17 PM
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I always looked forward to our meals and snacks together. That is the great part of this whole journey. As you wander around the town in the afternoon, early evening, you tend to say hello to familiar faces you have seen walking that day.. sometimes exchanging more than a few words. People will tell you about the great guesthouse they are in.. or were in the night before., and where they will be stopping the next day.
I don´t remember where we actually went to eat that night, but I do remember we sat outside under the trees at a café for hours it seemed, enjoying the shade.
I just remembered where we ate! Not the name, but the long outside table we got with our group and the two girls who had joined us earlier. It was a very popular place
And when in Padrón, one must eat "Pimientos de Padrón". The small green peppers that can burn your mouth if you get one of the HOT ones. They are roasted and salted and very soft. You touch the tip of your tongue to see if it burns and then if not, gently bite the tip and pull.. so the stem and seeds slide out and you only eat the outer part.
After dinner the group was not ready to go to bed, but since I had to walk further back to my place and alone, I did set out before it got too late and called it a day.
First we reconfirmed we would meet for breakfast at a decent hour at a traditional funky place whose gregarious owner seemed to LIVE to service the pilgrims! He assured us he would be open from 6 a.m on!
When I got back to my hostal I had a decaf coffee before going to bed and chatted with the girl running the restaurant for a bit.
I was happy to see there was no commotion upstairs in the hostal, in spite of there being at least three or four rooms of travelers. I collected the clothes I had hand washed off the line, took a quick shower and got into my comfortable bed after setting the alarm to be sure to get to our breakfast meeting point tomorrow morning on time.
It's a great feeling to go to bed at time and not have any obligation whatsoever but to get dressed, have some breakfast and start walking. No bus routes to figure out or museums to pre-buy tickets for.. just WALK. Such a different vacation than one usually takes.
I don´t remember where we actually went to eat that night, but I do remember we sat outside under the trees at a café for hours it seemed, enjoying the shade.
I just remembered where we ate! Not the name, but the long outside table we got with our group and the two girls who had joined us earlier. It was a very popular place
And when in Padrón, one must eat "Pimientos de Padrón". The small green peppers that can burn your mouth if you get one of the HOT ones. They are roasted and salted and very soft. You touch the tip of your tongue to see if it burns and then if not, gently bite the tip and pull.. so the stem and seeds slide out and you only eat the outer part.
After dinner the group was not ready to go to bed, but since I had to walk further back to my place and alone, I did set out before it got too late and called it a day.
First we reconfirmed we would meet for breakfast at a decent hour at a traditional funky place whose gregarious owner seemed to LIVE to service the pilgrims! He assured us he would be open from 6 a.m on!
When I got back to my hostal I had a decaf coffee before going to bed and chatted with the girl running the restaurant for a bit.
I was happy to see there was no commotion upstairs in the hostal, in spite of there being at least three or four rooms of travelers. I collected the clothes I had hand washed off the line, took a quick shower and got into my comfortable bed after setting the alarm to be sure to get to our breakfast meeting point tomorrow morning on time.
It's a great feeling to go to bed at time and not have any obligation whatsoever but to get dressed, have some breakfast and start walking. No bus routes to figure out or museums to pre-buy tickets for.. just WALK. Such a different vacation than one usually takes.
Sep 1st, 2014, 08:36 AM
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Hi Lin - have very much enjoyed keeping up with your trip report, however, once again I am turning to you for advice on another subject - we 'spoke' once before about my upcoming trip (Madrid -
Barcelona - Catalonia Pyrenees)...I am frustrated in attempting to purchase renfe tix online, rd trip Madrid-BCN-Madrid - I get nowhere once on their site, am I missing something? are there tricks to advancing on their purchase site? am I attempting a purchase too far in advance of our mid-late October visit? hope you can help, thank you
Barcelona - Catalonia Pyrenees)...I am frustrated in attempting to purchase renfe tix online, rd trip Madrid-BCN-Madrid - I get nowhere once on their site, am I missing something? are there tricks to advancing on their purchase site? am I attempting a purchase too far in advance of our mid-late October visit? hope you can help, thank you
Sep 1st, 2014, 10:58 AM
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Lin, no offense taken! I know exactly what you mean and that would be my preference too. Specially this time that it was so hot i was so focused on walking quickly , mainly in the areas
wih no shade, so I could get early to our destination. Many times I forgot to stop and "smell the flowers". I would love to organize such a Camino , the only problem being it would take twice as long!
Thomas, just before this trip and for the first time ever I was able to book/ purchase tickets on the Renfe site! I was sooo excited as I had never been able to before. Did you register with them? Also, did u call ur credit card and advise in advance of the purchase? I used a Chase master card. Maybe Lin will have other strategies. Purchasing for travel mid October should not create a problem. Good luck!
wih no shade, so I could get early to our destination. Many times I forgot to stop and "smell the flowers". I would love to organize such a Camino , the only problem being it would take twice as long!
Thomas, just before this trip and for the first time ever I was able to book/ purchase tickets on the Renfe site! I was sooo excited as I had never been able to before. Did you register with them? Also, did u call ur credit card and advise in advance of the purchase? I used a Chase master card. Maybe Lin will have other strategies. Purchasing for travel mid October should not create a problem. Good luck!
Sep 1st, 2014, 11:43 AM
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thanks luv - yes I registered - but I literally cannot get past the first step! the site gives me no options for 'purchase'
nor 'continue' (consequently I'm not even at the cc issue) - can anyone elucidate?
nor 'continue' (consequently I'm not even at the cc issue) - can anyone elucidate?
Sep 1st, 2014, 12:33 PM
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I have no problem for mad-barcelona-madrid. are you sure you are piutting in madrid with a *, and Barcelona with a star? maybe you have chosen a station that doesn´t have service.. like Madrid-- whatever in Barcelona?
the star covers all stations
the star covers all stations
Sep 1st, 2014, 01:06 PM
#32
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So.. today, after our fun breakfast, we realize there is a fine, misty rain accompanying us.. hopefully a relief from the sweltering heat. I am very happy we started early and know my family would not believe it if I called them right now. But being the nice guy I am, i refrain from calling them and waking them up.
Luckily I brought a HIDEOUS green garbage bag type poncho some guests had just left at my house the previous week from their unusually wet Rome trip. I understand why they thought they'd never wear it again..but I had packed it in CASE we had a drizzle here and there.
I made my friends take a photo of me because the mild wind filled up the bag through the sleeves and from the open bottom and I looked like the spinach Michelin man on steroids before the balloon would burst. It was hysterical.
Feeling a bit conspicuous.. I finally took the darn thing off, but really, it was hardly misting any longer, so it was not needed. Whew! Now that I think of it.. maybe that's why the group sped up so much on this part of the trail? LOL!
One thing that surprised me was the small amount of pilgrims on this trail, and thus, the few places ON the trail for services. There were sufficient places during the day to get something to eat,have a coffee and use a clean bathroom, but there weren't a lot to choose from when you did find one. You seemed to only have one choice, at a crossroad or along a busier street once we hit the next very small town.
For that reason if you are going alone you really need to know where you are going and what is there for you. Several excellent books have been mentioned on camino websites although I have not read any of them. I have frequented some of the blogs, but I had to do nothing for this trip (what a LUXURY) so I did not make an inquiries at all.
As the day wears on, I am thinking not only of my cousin, her family and their son and other children, but my own family, parents, ( deceased and still here) as I put one foot in front of the other, stride after stride. At times I am almost overwhelmed with emotion and gratitude for the Life I have had, the people I have met.. as well as the sadness I have experienced and seen other places or with other people. I hope grief somehow can be replaced with some accumulation of memories that soften the emptiness.
My Chicagoland sister-in-law passed away this spring on the day of our son's USA wedding reception, so it has not been an easy year by any means. I thought of my brother often and how we had hoped to do part of the Camino one day with the two of them.
I go over in my head how to make a better future for all who are near me..and how I can swing going back to Cambodia to help on a project there.. I think about my kids and where their next job will come from when their projects are finished.. if my husband will get more work.. if I will, too.... If my mother will ever be able to take another car trip with me. .. so much to think about.
I think about all this and more and before I know it, I've walked a few more miles. But I am smiling now because there is only one day left; the rest of today and then tomorrow the grand arrival in Santiago. How exciting!
Luckily I brought a HIDEOUS green garbage bag type poncho some guests had just left at my house the previous week from their unusually wet Rome trip. I understand why they thought they'd never wear it again..but I had packed it in CASE we had a drizzle here and there.
I made my friends take a photo of me because the mild wind filled up the bag through the sleeves and from the open bottom and I looked like the spinach Michelin man on steroids before the balloon would burst. It was hysterical.
Feeling a bit conspicuous.. I finally took the darn thing off, but really, it was hardly misting any longer, so it was not needed. Whew! Now that I think of it.. maybe that's why the group sped up so much on this part of the trail? LOL!
One thing that surprised me was the small amount of pilgrims on this trail, and thus, the few places ON the trail for services. There were sufficient places during the day to get something to eat,have a coffee and use a clean bathroom, but there weren't a lot to choose from when you did find one. You seemed to only have one choice, at a crossroad or along a busier street once we hit the next very small town.
For that reason if you are going alone you really need to know where you are going and what is there for you. Several excellent books have been mentioned on camino websites although I have not read any of them. I have frequented some of the blogs, but I had to do nothing for this trip (what a LUXURY) so I did not make an inquiries at all.
As the day wears on, I am thinking not only of my cousin, her family and their son and other children, but my own family, parents, ( deceased and still here) as I put one foot in front of the other, stride after stride. At times I am almost overwhelmed with emotion and gratitude for the Life I have had, the people I have met.. as well as the sadness I have experienced and seen other places or with other people. I hope grief somehow can be replaced with some accumulation of memories that soften the emptiness.
My Chicagoland sister-in-law passed away this spring on the day of our son's USA wedding reception, so it has not been an easy year by any means. I thought of my brother often and how we had hoped to do part of the Camino one day with the two of them.
I go over in my head how to make a better future for all who are near me..and how I can swing going back to Cambodia to help on a project there.. I think about my kids and where their next job will come from when their projects are finished.. if my husband will get more work.. if I will, too.... If my mother will ever be able to take another car trip with me. .. so much to think about.
I think about all this and more and before I know it, I've walked a few more miles. But I am smiling now because there is only one day left; the rest of today and then tomorrow the grand arrival in Santiago. How exciting!
Sep 1st, 2014, 01:14 PM
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And this is where we will sleep tonight..
http://www.paradadefrancos.com
This a gem cruiseluv found. I was so looking forward to it. But as i walked my walk, little did I know that all would take a sudden turn
http://www.paradadefrancos.com
This a gem cruiseluv found. I was so looking forward to it. But as i walked my walk, little did I know that all would take a sudden turn
Sep 7th, 2014, 08:10 AM
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Today we were obviously closer to Santiago so it isn't unusual to see more gardens, pets and everyday Life. We passed an old dog laying in a ditch, with an erect head, that didn't move when we approached. It made me remember one of our old German Shepherds right before we had him put down. He would go out and never come back. We would find him laying somewhere.. just like this fellow.. with too much hip pain to get himself up to come home, but wagging his tail when he saw us come to rescue him. He was only with us a few days after that.
That was my only explanation for this gray-haired dog.
Lots of flowers today. More gardens. A proud housewife watering the gorgeous cascading petunias along her huge wrap-around terrace.
Dogs would bark as we passed their gates. A couple lone sheep looked up and I saw a tethered donkey in a field. But no abundance of animals, as I have mentioned.
After a while I had become separated again from the threesome or the twosome.. depending on their status also. No problem, but I stopped in a café that suddenly sprouted up down the road, hoping to see them there.
It was empty, but I decided to stop and have a bite to eat before I continued.
I was offered a piece of tortilla de patata. I couldn't help but compare it to the one I had had with the group that first day. I don't know if it was the TLC the cook put into it or the company, but that first one was MUCH better than this one. I trust it was a bit of both. But it did hit the spot. Potatoes and eggs always fill a hungry tummy, that's for sure.
The Camino here follows a main local road for a bit but soon slips into the trees and countryside. These past days there were not many road stretches at all to be mentioned. But the Camino Francés has a few that are longer than desired, to say the least.
After an hour or so i wonder if I am going to catch up with my friends before we hit the hotel. I finally stop for coffee at an adorable place and find out that they had just left there 10 minutes earlier. Knowing that there is no way to catch up I sit down at an outdoor table and order a café con leche. I chat with the owner and she informs me I have only about 1 km. before the hotel we will be staying at.
What great news! Most of the time I am totally oblivious as to how much further we need to go, unless I see a sign somewhere. It doesn't really matter much to me.
Knowing I had so little distance to go, I sat back and really relaxed and retraced what a nice day it had been in spite of the drizzles at the beginning that fortunately dried up quite quickly.
And then my Camino came to a shattering end. I couldn't stop it from happening. Within a minute I had stood up, lost my footing and gone toppling onto a concrete slab floor, hit my head and, quickly discovered, broken my wrist.
I had stood up from the outdoor table and pushed back the light aluminum chair to step away from the table and gather my knapsack. But I couldn't gather anything. I took a step aside and backwards and suddenly was halted by a large, immobile parasol base with no umbrella in it. I tripped backwards and tried to stop myself from falling but never regained my footing and crashed head and wrist first onto the concrete.
The rest is still traumatic for me to think about.. but I am grateful that the head trauma was where it was. A few pilgrims stopped immediately to help. The bar owner was screaming at her husband to call an ambulance, I was also telling him the same as I tried to roll over off of my injured side.
To make along story short, everyone involved did a fabulous job of tending to my welfare. The bar owner went to get cruiseluv at the hotel.. the pilgrims help text her and also take off my rings of my swelling fingers and put them in a safe compartment of my knapsack. They also took down my name and important info in case I should lose consciousness at any moment. They were really fantastic.
But I just kept hearing " mas toallas, por favor". ( more towels, please) from the fellow at my side ( I never opened my eyes much during this ordeal). This fellow was Irish.. he had the most distinct accent. He took wonderful care of me. I am forever indebted to him and his female friend who "took over " until the ambulance came.
I think cruiseluv was in a bit of a state of shock herself when she arrived ( thanks to the bar owner's husband who had gone to get her) and saw the panorama. We spoke for a moment but I discouraged her from coming with me to the hospital as I assumed I would be there most of the day and perhaps overnight. The ambulance took me to Santiago where they eventually took care of everything. X-rays.. cat scan.. cast.. etc.
A set wrist and 6 staples in my head, 8 hours later, I was in a taxi to our wonderful rural hotel. I could not WAIT to get cleaned up and see the rest of the group.
That was my only explanation for this gray-haired dog.
Lots of flowers today. More gardens. A proud housewife watering the gorgeous cascading petunias along her huge wrap-around terrace.
Dogs would bark as we passed their gates. A couple lone sheep looked up and I saw a tethered donkey in a field. But no abundance of animals, as I have mentioned.
After a while I had become separated again from the threesome or the twosome.. depending on their status also. No problem, but I stopped in a café that suddenly sprouted up down the road, hoping to see them there.
It was empty, but I decided to stop and have a bite to eat before I continued.
I was offered a piece of tortilla de patata. I couldn't help but compare it to the one I had had with the group that first day. I don't know if it was the TLC the cook put into it or the company, but that first one was MUCH better than this one. I trust it was a bit of both. But it did hit the spot. Potatoes and eggs always fill a hungry tummy, that's for sure.
The Camino here follows a main local road for a bit but soon slips into the trees and countryside. These past days there were not many road stretches at all to be mentioned. But the Camino Francés has a few that are longer than desired, to say the least.
After an hour or so i wonder if I am going to catch up with my friends before we hit the hotel. I finally stop for coffee at an adorable place and find out that they had just left there 10 minutes earlier. Knowing that there is no way to catch up I sit down at an outdoor table and order a café con leche. I chat with the owner and she informs me I have only about 1 km. before the hotel we will be staying at.
What great news! Most of the time I am totally oblivious as to how much further we need to go, unless I see a sign somewhere. It doesn't really matter much to me.
Knowing I had so little distance to go, I sat back and really relaxed and retraced what a nice day it had been in spite of the drizzles at the beginning that fortunately dried up quite quickly.
And then my Camino came to a shattering end. I couldn't stop it from happening. Within a minute I had stood up, lost my footing and gone toppling onto a concrete slab floor, hit my head and, quickly discovered, broken my wrist.
I had stood up from the outdoor table and pushed back the light aluminum chair to step away from the table and gather my knapsack. But I couldn't gather anything. I took a step aside and backwards and suddenly was halted by a large, immobile parasol base with no umbrella in it. I tripped backwards and tried to stop myself from falling but never regained my footing and crashed head and wrist first onto the concrete.
The rest is still traumatic for me to think about.. but I am grateful that the head trauma was where it was. A few pilgrims stopped immediately to help. The bar owner was screaming at her husband to call an ambulance, I was also telling him the same as I tried to roll over off of my injured side.
To make along story short, everyone involved did a fabulous job of tending to my welfare. The bar owner went to get cruiseluv at the hotel.. the pilgrims help text her and also take off my rings of my swelling fingers and put them in a safe compartment of my knapsack. They also took down my name and important info in case I should lose consciousness at any moment. They were really fantastic.
But I just kept hearing " mas toallas, por favor". ( more towels, please) from the fellow at my side ( I never opened my eyes much during this ordeal). This fellow was Irish.. he had the most distinct accent. He took wonderful care of me. I am forever indebted to him and his female friend who "took over " until the ambulance came.
I think cruiseluv was in a bit of a state of shock herself when she arrived ( thanks to the bar owner's husband who had gone to get her) and saw the panorama. We spoke for a moment but I discouraged her from coming with me to the hospital as I assumed I would be there most of the day and perhaps overnight. The ambulance took me to Santiago where they eventually took care of everything. X-rays.. cat scan.. cast.. etc.
A set wrist and 6 staples in my head, 8 hours later, I was in a taxi to our wonderful rural hotel. I could not WAIT to get cleaned up and see the rest of the group.
Sep 7th, 2014, 02:17 PM
#38
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This country inn was such a gem ! An old stone house converted into a lovely, rustic but modernized hotel. This was the nicest of the places I stayed and also exactly they type of place I love to stay at. I would definitely stay here again as it is literally ON the trail, too!
After I got myself cleaned up, my friends had patiently waited to have dinner with me. It was wonderful to actually BE THERE. It almost felt like every other night... except there was no talk about the walk the next day for me. A family we had met in Padrón was also at our hotel.
I realized how bad this fall could have been, and although I am still suffering from the wrist and its long haul rehab.. I am very grateful for the outcome.
However, i was a bit concerned about going to sleep that night as I had been strictly warned at the hospital to look out for a huge list of symptoms and to call emergency and get to a hospital if any of them appeared...
I slept with my bedroom door open, my friends were "on alert" and all went well.
I got up early to have a snack with my friends before they set off and say goodbye to them as they started off on their last day of this wonderful journey. We hugged and kissed and sent best wishes and arranged to meet later that night for dinner in Santiago.
I watched them leave... and I have to admit I almost had a tear in my eye. It is shocking how things can change from one minute to the next.
It was too early for me to start my day so I went back to my room and actually slept very well for a couple hours after a very uncomfortable first night with my broken wrist and head trauma. I woke up revitalized and ready for a hearty breakfast which the inn owner laid before me . He buttered my toast and tore open the paper sugar packets for my coffee. Oh my, am I an invalid! Left wrist and I am left-handed. I hoped I would quickly learn how to feed/ dress myself!
I later packed up and caught a taxi to my next hotel in Santiago. When the taxi arrived at the historical section of Santiago... I felt so strange, almost melancholy, arriving in this town by taxi instead of on foot, as we passed many pilgrims, grateful but also a bit sad that the end was near.
I was staying at a different hotel here, one that I had always wanted to stay in and my husband would be joining me for the weekend.
http://www.sanmartinpinario.eu
The rooms are very clean but there is no TV. The rooms have a modern updated bathroom. About 60E/double. There are plenty of lounging rooms, one at least with a television, others more for reading. There are also single pilgrim rooms for 20E that are small but with the original bathrooms. Breakfast was simple. This is a very popular place and very authentic, as are many of the accommodations in this lovely city.
I got settled in my room and after resting decided to go to get my "Compostela". One receives a special certificate if you have walked over 100 km.
On this trip I had NOT, but my previous trip I had, so I waited in the slow-moving line to get this paper. My distance was documented on my "passport" of the Camino so there was no problem when I asked about this. On our previous trip i had not bothered to wait in line to get this paper, but this trip was so special for me that I decided it was well worth it. Besides, I had nothing else to do until dinner time!
As I was standing outside in the line, a fellow walked by and stopped and said "Oh! So you DID break your wrist after all?" ...with that lovely, distinct Irish accent.
I said "Oh..it was YOU.. wasn´t it? You helped me so much! Thank you so much" to which he said.. "No..".. and turned away a bit.. "someone told me about it"..
and I smiled, shaking my head and said.. "I'll never forget your voice.. thank you so much for taking care of me".
At that he smiled, held up his hand, waved goodbye and went on his hurried way.
After I got myself cleaned up, my friends had patiently waited to have dinner with me. It was wonderful to actually BE THERE. It almost felt like every other night... except there was no talk about the walk the next day for me. A family we had met in Padrón was also at our hotel.
I realized how bad this fall could have been, and although I am still suffering from the wrist and its long haul rehab.. I am very grateful for the outcome.
However, i was a bit concerned about going to sleep that night as I had been strictly warned at the hospital to look out for a huge list of symptoms and to call emergency and get to a hospital if any of them appeared...
I slept with my bedroom door open, my friends were "on alert" and all went well.
I got up early to have a snack with my friends before they set off and say goodbye to them as they started off on their last day of this wonderful journey. We hugged and kissed and sent best wishes and arranged to meet later that night for dinner in Santiago.
I watched them leave... and I have to admit I almost had a tear in my eye. It is shocking how things can change from one minute to the next.
It was too early for me to start my day so I went back to my room and actually slept very well for a couple hours after a very uncomfortable first night with my broken wrist and head trauma. I woke up revitalized and ready for a hearty breakfast which the inn owner laid before me . He buttered my toast and tore open the paper sugar packets for my coffee. Oh my, am I an invalid! Left wrist and I am left-handed. I hoped I would quickly learn how to feed/ dress myself!
I later packed up and caught a taxi to my next hotel in Santiago. When the taxi arrived at the historical section of Santiago... I felt so strange, almost melancholy, arriving in this town by taxi instead of on foot, as we passed many pilgrims, grateful but also a bit sad that the end was near.
I was staying at a different hotel here, one that I had always wanted to stay in and my husband would be joining me for the weekend.
http://www.sanmartinpinario.eu
The rooms are very clean but there is no TV. The rooms have a modern updated bathroom. About 60E/double. There are plenty of lounging rooms, one at least with a television, others more for reading. There are also single pilgrim rooms for 20E that are small but with the original bathrooms. Breakfast was simple. This is a very popular place and very authentic, as are many of the accommodations in this lovely city.
I got settled in my room and after resting decided to go to get my "Compostela". One receives a special certificate if you have walked over 100 km.
On this trip I had NOT, but my previous trip I had, so I waited in the slow-moving line to get this paper. My distance was documented on my "passport" of the Camino so there was no problem when I asked about this. On our previous trip i had not bothered to wait in line to get this paper, but this trip was so special for me that I decided it was well worth it. Besides, I had nothing else to do until dinner time!
As I was standing outside in the line, a fellow walked by and stopped and said "Oh! So you DID break your wrist after all?" ...with that lovely, distinct Irish accent.
I said "Oh..it was YOU.. wasn´t it? You helped me so much! Thank you so much" to which he said.. "No..".. and turned away a bit.. "someone told me about it"..
and I smiled, shaking my head and said.. "I'll never forget your voice.. thank you so much for taking care of me".
At that he smiled, held up his hand, waved goodbye and went on his hurried way.
Sep 8th, 2014, 06:05 AM
#39
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Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 12,492
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Another Fodorite was volunteering in the Pilgrims' office. I had met her in Valencia once when she was doing the Camino de Levante, a very little travelled path, and was hoping to coincide here in Santiago with her. Cruiseluv was able to meet her but I was very unlucky the two times I tried. Maybe next time!
My husband arrived by train and we headed to our dinner with cruiseluv and her friends.. my three walking colleagues. The wind-down after a walk ( and mine was so short, but still, it was the end, albeit a short jaunt) is a curious feeling. Off come the walking clothes and shoes (usually). Hair gets washed and dried nicely. Maybe make-up? Then the conversations of the memories of the phases keep coming up in conversation.
All of us had different plans for the rest of the weekend. Cruiseluv going off to the end of the trail at Muxia by bus while we were going to visit some friends for the weekend who have a house nearby on the beautiful Galician coast.
From Santiago you are just a short bus or train ride away from some of the most spectacular coastline and small fishing villages. Try to see a little more if you come. You won't be disappointed. Public transport is excellent and prices are, too.
I am sure I have left out some interesting details, but only having walked a few days, I'l let cruiseluv fill in gaps in HER trip report ( hoping she makes one of her entire journey!).
I am so grateful she allowed me to join them on their pre-planned journey. I hope this report encourages others to do a few days or weeks of any of the trails that lead to the amazing town of Santiago de Compostela.
My husband arrived by train and we headed to our dinner with cruiseluv and her friends.. my three walking colleagues. The wind-down after a walk ( and mine was so short, but still, it was the end, albeit a short jaunt) is a curious feeling. Off come the walking clothes and shoes (usually). Hair gets washed and dried nicely. Maybe make-up? Then the conversations of the memories of the phases keep coming up in conversation.
All of us had different plans for the rest of the weekend. Cruiseluv going off to the end of the trail at Muxia by bus while we were going to visit some friends for the weekend who have a house nearby on the beautiful Galician coast.
From Santiago you are just a short bus or train ride away from some of the most spectacular coastline and small fishing villages. Try to see a little more if you come. You won't be disappointed. Public transport is excellent and prices are, too.
I am sure I have left out some interesting details, but only having walked a few days, I'l let cruiseluv fill in gaps in HER trip report ( hoping she makes one of her entire journey!).
I am so grateful she allowed me to join them on their pre-planned journey. I hope this report encourages others to do a few days or weeks of any of the trails that lead to the amazing town of Santiago de Compostela.
