8 day trip to Crete
May 12th, 2009, 07:16 AM
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
8 day trip to Crete
We haven't been to Crete since 2006 and are looking forward to returning next month (June 7 - 15). I've notice that the bus and ferry schedules have changed a bit causing travel along the south coast and in and out of Hania a bit tricky.
We'll be spending a night in Hania, 3 nights in the Old Phoenix out side of Loutro and 4 nights in Sougia, and a night in Athens. We plan to walk the Aradhenia George going to marmara beach,up the gorge, visit the ruins of Aradhenia, and return by way of Anapolis where we have a late lunch before walking down to Loutro.
In Sougia we plan to take a taxi to the top of the Samaria Gorge, walk down, and take the 5:30 ferry from Agia Roumeli to Sougia. We hope to take a cooking class while in Sougia.
We'll have a free day in Loutro and a couple of free days in Sougia. Does any one have any favorite walks in these areas?
We know only 1 night in Hania and 1 night in Athens aren't enough but we have limited time and had to make some cuts. Omalos is also a great place to spend a couple of nights which we cut out completely. It was a fairly easy choice since it means we don't have to walk down the Samaria Gorge with our full packs.
Also does any one have a good way to get to Hania for the 1st night. We fly from Dulles to Athens via Paris. It's alway iffy if we'll make our connection to Athens in Paris, so we usually buy our plane ticket from Athens to Hania after we get in.
We'll be spending a night in Hania, 3 nights in the Old Phoenix out side of Loutro and 4 nights in Sougia, and a night in Athens. We plan to walk the Aradhenia George going to marmara beach,up the gorge, visit the ruins of Aradhenia, and return by way of Anapolis where we have a late lunch before walking down to Loutro.
In Sougia we plan to take a taxi to the top of the Samaria Gorge, walk down, and take the 5:30 ferry from Agia Roumeli to Sougia. We hope to take a cooking class while in Sougia.
We'll have a free day in Loutro and a couple of free days in Sougia. Does any one have any favorite walks in these areas?
We know only 1 night in Hania and 1 night in Athens aren't enough but we have limited time and had to make some cuts. Omalos is also a great place to spend a couple of nights which we cut out completely. It was a fairly easy choice since it means we don't have to walk down the Samaria Gorge with our full packs.
Also does any one have a good way to get to Hania for the 1st night. We fly from Dulles to Athens via Paris. It's alway iffy if we'll make our connection to Athens in Paris, so we usually buy our plane ticket from Athens to Hania after we get in.
May 12th, 2009, 08:36 AM
#2
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 4,205
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If you wait til arrival, probably hard to get that Aegean flite to Hania, certainly at "promotional price". How about o'nite NEL ferry? to Chania port of Sougia... arrive 5:30 am or so ... need to take taxi to Chania, check bags someplace for the day. Costlier than flight, but it's also y our hotel for the night.
May 12th, 2009, 09:10 AM
#4
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
jan,
Thanks for the input. We considered the ferry option but the logistics for this trip don't quite work. We really enjoy our dinner in Hania that first night and the ferry would mean we'd have to head to the south coast right away. A great thing about Hania is that it doesn't matter how late we are, since the restaurants are open well past midnight.
We know we won't get the promotional price buying at the last minute. We may end up booking an evening flight and if we make all our connections we'll enjoy a few hours in the Athens airport. We were able to get a good price on the return flight from Hania to Athens. It's interesting that one way tickets simply cost 1/2 round trip so there's no premimum for flying only one way.
We've only taken the ferry once (from Souda to Pireas) and really enjoyed it. We splurged and got a room for just the two of us. It was also nice that the crew, with prior arrangement, had no problem with us sleeping in an extra hour upon arrival in Pireas. It certainly cost less than flying and the cost of a hotel room in Athens.
Thanks for the input. We considered the ferry option but the logistics for this trip don't quite work. We really enjoy our dinner in Hania that first night and the ferry would mean we'd have to head to the south coast right away. A great thing about Hania is that it doesn't matter how late we are, since the restaurants are open well past midnight.
We know we won't get the promotional price buying at the last minute. We may end up booking an evening flight and if we make all our connections we'll enjoy a few hours in the Athens airport. We were able to get a good price on the return flight from Hania to Athens. It's interesting that one way tickets simply cost 1/2 round trip so there's no premimum for flying only one way.
We've only taken the ferry once (from Souda to Pireas) and really enjoyed it. We splurged and got a room for just the two of us. It was also nice that the crew, with prior arrangement, had no problem with us sleeping in an extra hour upon arrival in Pireas. It certainly cost less than flying and the cost of a hotel room in Athens.
May 12th, 2009, 01:38 PM
#6
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 4,205
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
about 5 years ago, a friend and I did the "corniche" walk from Loutro back to Hora Sfakion, stopping for a swim at Sweetwater beach. ... the ferry from H-Sfak to Loutro takes 15 mins, the walk back takes hours!! at least for us. I call it the "corniche" walk because it's really a former goat path a meter wide, that goes around at least 3 maybe 4 headlands or capes .. and it mostly is up high, like walking on a cornice. To your left, a sheer cliff going up, to your right, a sheer drop of 200-300 feet to rocks and swirling waters. Then it would slant down to sea level, and back up once again! If you do it, DO take a walking stick of some kind! After I conquered my acrophobia it was great fun, but never could lean over the abyss to take pix as my friend did.
May 13th, 2009, 06:10 AM
#7
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sheila and Jan, Thanks for the recommendations. I have Loraine Wilson's walking guide to the White Mountains and Rother's Walking Guide to Crete. There are so many walks listed it's tough to pick which ones to do.
For the walk from Loutro to Hora Sfakion, Wilson's book says "a section of footpath out of the cliff. A short part of this feels a little exposed as the sea is directly below". It sounds like a bit of an understatement. She doesn't mention that the sea is a couple hundred of feet below. We will have walking sticks with us.
The walk to Lissos sounds perfect for a morning walk and picnic lunch there.
For the walk from Loutro to Hora Sfakion, Wilson's book says "a section of footpath out of the cliff. A short part of this feels a little exposed as the sea is directly below". It sounds like a bit of an understatement. She doesn't mention that the sea is a couple hundred of feet below. We will have walking sticks with us.
The walk to Lissos sounds perfect for a morning walk and picnic lunch there.
Jun 13th, 2009, 08:41 AM
#9
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 151
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Roger1x - it looks like you're in Greece now. I'd love to hear about your Crete experiences, as I'll be there in early October. I'm particularly interested in the cooking class in Sougia. Let me know if you end up doing it and if you liked it!
Jun 18th, 2009, 09:39 AM
#10
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
dunia123,
we didn't end up doing the cooking class. the teacher is also a private school teacher and was swamped with end of school year work. however, we did the class 4 years ago and enjoyed it so much that we wanted to do it again. you can email corinne falagaris (dutch women who has been living in crete for years) at [email protected]
we spent the entire time on the south coast of crete - the first night in Sfakia (really long day to get there - Washington to Paris to Athens to Hania to Sfakia, we made all our connections and made it to Sfakia in plenty of time for dinner). Next day took the ferry to Loutro and spent 3 days at the Old Phonix which is about a 20 minute walk outside of Loutro. Took one long walk through the Aradhena Gorge late lunch in Anopoli and back in time for a swim before dinner.
we then took the ferry from Loutro via Agia Roumeli for 4 nights in Sougia. We had a great lunch at the Artemis restaurant in Agia Roumeli (which is at the bottem of the Samaria Gorge).
While in Sougia we walked to Lissos one day and the Irini Gorge another. Both really nice walks and not too tough. We had considered taking the bus to the top of the Samaria Gorge and walking down to Agia Roumeli but decided against it as it was above average warm while we were there and we would have been rushed to make the 5:30 pm ferry back to Sougia. The walk is only about 5 hours but you really need to make lots of stops if you really want to enjoy it.
I think that you'll love Crete in early October. The weather will be nice but not too hot and the water will be perfect for swimming.
we didn't end up doing the cooking class. the teacher is also a private school teacher and was swamped with end of school year work. however, we did the class 4 years ago and enjoyed it so much that we wanted to do it again. you can email corinne falagaris (dutch women who has been living in crete for years) at [email protected]
we spent the entire time on the south coast of crete - the first night in Sfakia (really long day to get there - Washington to Paris to Athens to Hania to Sfakia, we made all our connections and made it to Sfakia in plenty of time for dinner). Next day took the ferry to Loutro and spent 3 days at the Old Phonix which is about a 20 minute walk outside of Loutro. Took one long walk through the Aradhena Gorge late lunch in Anopoli and back in time for a swim before dinner.
we then took the ferry from Loutro via Agia Roumeli for 4 nights in Sougia. We had a great lunch at the Artemis restaurant in Agia Roumeli (which is at the bottem of the Samaria Gorge).
While in Sougia we walked to Lissos one day and the Irini Gorge another. Both really nice walks and not too tough. We had considered taking the bus to the top of the Samaria Gorge and walking down to Agia Roumeli but decided against it as it was above average warm while we were there and we would have been rushed to make the 5:30 pm ferry back to Sougia. The walk is only about 5 hours but you really need to make lots of stops if you really want to enjoy it.
I think that you'll love Crete in early October. The weather will be nice but not too hot and the water will be perfect for swimming.
Jun 22nd, 2009, 09:22 AM
#11
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 151
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Roger1x - thanks so much for your post. I'm trying to manage my excitement, since it's still only June, but your trip sounded wonderful. Thanks also for the cooking class reference - that would be a great addition to the time spent.
We are spending our time on Crete based in Hania. How did you end up getting from Hania to the southern coast. We'll be renting a car, but I don't have a sense of the lenght of the drive or the complexity.
thanks again! Deana
We are spending our time on Crete based in Hania. How did you end up getting from Hania to the southern coast. We'll be renting a car, but I don't have a sense of the lenght of the drive or the complexity.
thanks again! Deana
Jun 22nd, 2009, 09:55 AM
#12
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 4,205
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
dunia, if you are based in Hania, you can get a cooking class very nearby, not on South coast (tho you may go there for other reasons of course). There's a t raditional village Vamos, about 15 miles east of Hania... people decided to help save the locals' way of life but helping them be commercially viable ... so there is a shop that sells traditional foodstuffs (honey, olives, preserves, olive oil etc), there are lovely short hikes that go from there daily, there are local lodgings ... AND tradtional cookery courses. Just check the website:http://www.explorecrete.com/crete-ma.../Crete-eot.png
... and click on the various topics named
It's no biggie to drive to the South coast... there are several ways .... one is down the edge of the Topolian Gorge ... leads to Paleohora; another goes down the Imbros Gorge rim, and ends up at Chora Sfakion. For the Former, you drive WEST on the Biggie coast road until just before Kissamnee/Kastelli to get the road south -- for the latter, you go EAST towards Rethymnon, and take the road south that runs through Vrisses.
-- to make it perfectly clear, here's an excellent map of Crete; click on it and it gets very huuuuuge ... shows all roads, distances between points etc. excellent for planning.
http://www.explorecrete.com/crete-ma.../Crete-eot.png
--- here's a site that gives distances in KM between various points ...
http://www.west-crete.com/road-distances-crete.htm
-- and here's one that talks about DRIVING in CRETE ... however, don't let it scare you, if you are mostly dealing with main roads, they are in excellent shape, and in October any traffic will be minimal... PS: the swimming should still be fine in October, even warm!
http://www.cretetravel.com/Driving_in_Crete.htm
... and click on the various topics named
It's no biggie to drive to the South coast... there are several ways .... one is down the edge of the Topolian Gorge ... leads to Paleohora; another goes down the Imbros Gorge rim, and ends up at Chora Sfakion. For the Former, you drive WEST on the Biggie coast road until just before Kissamnee/Kastelli to get the road south -- for the latter, you go EAST towards Rethymnon, and take the road south that runs through Vrisses.
-- to make it perfectly clear, here's an excellent map of Crete; click on it and it gets very huuuuuge ... shows all roads, distances between points etc. excellent for planning.
http://www.explorecrete.com/crete-ma.../Crete-eot.png
--- here's a site that gives distances in KM between various points ...
http://www.west-crete.com/road-distances-crete.htm
-- and here's one that talks about DRIVING in CRETE ... however, don't let it scare you, if you are mostly dealing with main roads, they are in excellent shape, and in October any traffic will be minimal... PS: the swimming should still be fine in October, even warm!
http://www.cretetravel.com/Driving_in_Crete.htm
Jun 22nd, 2009, 10:31 AM
#13
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Deana,
The drive to the south coast is about 90 minutes from Hania. The roads to Paleochora and Sfakia are in good shape and the drive is pretty easy. The road to Sougia is not the best but certainly not a difficult drive.
In the past, we always took the bus to and from the north and south coasts. As time was short on this trip, we splurged and took taxis. We've never rented a car in Crete but I'd say the driving on Crete is easier than on the Greek mainland.
I don't know anything about the cooking class in Vamos but it is certainly in a better location for you. Also, there is no guarantee that there will be a cooking class in Sougia while you're there.
The drive to the south coast is about 90 minutes from Hania. The roads to Paleochora and Sfakia are in good shape and the drive is pretty easy. The road to Sougia is not the best but certainly not a difficult drive.
In the past, we always took the bus to and from the north and south coasts. As time was short on this trip, we splurged and took taxis. We've never rented a car in Crete but I'd say the driving on Crete is easier than on the Greek mainland.
I don't know anything about the cooking class in Vamos but it is certainly in a better location for you. Also, there is no guarantee that there will be a cooking class in Sougia while you're there.
Jun 22nd, 2009, 07:36 PM
#14
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 151
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Travelerjan & Roger1x - thanks so much for the input, websites & maps. I agree that the vamos option looks like the right way to go. We may make our way south though, given we have a good 5 days. Swimming in October sounds heavenly. Not much of that in Minnesota!
Not too worried about the driving, as I will handle the navigation & my husband handles the driving, each playing to our strengths. (Ireland put that to the test, but I was driving and managed to hit a rock, pop a tire and bend an axle, but that's an entirely different story! Good way to get out of being behind the wheel though...)
Not too worried about the driving, as I will handle the navigation & my husband handles the driving, each playing to our strengths. (Ireland put that to the test, but I was driving and managed to hit a rock, pop a tire and bend an axle, but that's an entirely different story! Good way to get out of being behind the wheel though...)
Jun 22nd, 2009, 08:36 PM
#15
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 4,205
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Dunia, you also have the option of swimming on the NOrth shore, west of Chania a little ways, or just EAST of Chania, the beach towns of Almyrides and Khalives have sandy beaches, easy to reach after you spend a little time at Vamos. ALso, Behind Almirides, there's a nice short walk/drive uphill to a town Gavalochori, recommended by a friend in Greece, has a lovely folk art & textiles museum is another "town that time forgot."
Jun 26th, 2009, 12:40 PM
#16
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 95
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
TravelerJan.... As a frequent reader of your comments about vacationing in Crete, I've come to I respect your advice. So I thought I'd ask you for a recommendation on an inexpensive and trustworthy car rental company. We'll be arriving at the airport in Iraklion from Athens on the 8th of October and spending the first week at the Village Heights Golf Resort in Ano Hersonissos and then the next 4 days will be at Villa Filitsa in the Village of Kefalas. On the 19th we'll drive back east to the Prince of Lillies motel in Karteros which is near the airport for our final night and an early 7:00 am flight back the next morning.. I'm looking for a small economical car to sight see the Island. It's only the wife and I at the present time and I'll need to pick it up and drop it off at the airport. Any advice will be greatly appreciated
Jun 26th, 2009, 05:02 PM
#17
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 4,205
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
We have used Autoway twice with good results. They are a crete-based company out of Rethymnon, but will deliver cars all along the north shore and you get drop off in a different place if you wish, at no extra fee. I was attracted at first because they said, they match or beat the "biggies." I compared prices and that was correct. I always like to use local firms. in your e-mail you can say Janet from Philadelphia recommended him.
The owner is Greek but worked in Germany for about 10 years before founding his company about 20 years ago. Their website shows a great variety of cars, and he'll send you an estimate by return mail. The cars were ini good shape and we had no trouble whatever. It is a good idea to get the full coverage, just in case. BTW, going to Karteros is a smart idea, for that early flight. I hate hate hate staying in Heraklion.
The owner is Greek but worked in Germany for about 10 years before founding his company about 20 years ago. Their website shows a great variety of cars, and he'll send you an estimate by return mail. The cars were ini good shape and we had no trouble whatever. It is a good idea to get the full coverage, just in case. BTW, going to Karteros is a smart idea, for that early flight. I hate hate hate staying in Heraklion.
Jun 27th, 2009, 11:39 AM
#18
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 95
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
TravelerJan... Thanks for the name. I'll try to find him with a google search. From your all your previous posts, I actually thought that you were a retiree living in Crete.
My wife and I have previously visited/vacationed in some of the other islands, and on mainland of Greece 3 or 4 times, this will be my first time back on Crete in almost 37 years. Way back in 1972 I landed by helicopter near a little village out on the Akrotiri/Souda Bay Peninsula. After we shut down, I walked into the nearby village and found the bakery, where I bought 2 loaves steaming hot bread right out of the wood fired oven and then I tasted the most fantastic bread that I've ever eaten. I vowed to go back and this is the year we'll do it.
Here is my contribution for anyone planning a potential visit to Crete and is unsure of whether or not it is worth the trip and the time.. Read this book and I think it will convince you go there if you are unsure. It is called "A taste of honey" by Byron Anyanoglu. It was also published under the title "Crete on the half shell"... For anyone who has read and enjoyed "A year in Provence" by Peter Maley.... this is sorta the Cretean equivalent. It will make you laugh and it will also make you very hungry, particularly if you are into eating the food that the local Creteans eat.
And more importantly, for those of you who enjoy a glass, or two, of the fruit of the vine, I've learned key Greek words and phrases from this book that may be helpful and make you blend in with the locals in the tavernas... Pharases like "Yassou, chronia polla" and "Aspro pato". That should get you a free shot of raki.... gotta run. thanks again for the info...
My wife and I have previously visited/vacationed in some of the other islands, and on mainland of Greece 3 or 4 times, this will be my first time back on Crete in almost 37 years. Way back in 1972 I landed by helicopter near a little village out on the Akrotiri/Souda Bay Peninsula. After we shut down, I walked into the nearby village and found the bakery, where I bought 2 loaves steaming hot bread right out of the wood fired oven and then I tasted the most fantastic bread that I've ever eaten. I vowed to go back and this is the year we'll do it.
Here is my contribution for anyone planning a potential visit to Crete and is unsure of whether or not it is worth the trip and the time.. Read this book and I think it will convince you go there if you are unsure. It is called "A taste of honey" by Byron Anyanoglu. It was also published under the title "Crete on the half shell"... For anyone who has read and enjoyed "A year in Provence" by Peter Maley.... this is sorta the Cretean equivalent. It will make you laugh and it will also make you very hungry, particularly if you are into eating the food that the local Creteans eat.
And more importantly, for those of you who enjoy a glass, or two, of the fruit of the vine, I've learned key Greek words and phrases from this book that may be helpful and make you blend in with the locals in the tavernas... Pharases like "Yassou, chronia polla" and "Aspro pato". That should get you a free shot of raki.... gotta run. thanks again for the info...
Jun 27th, 2009, 01:40 PM
#19
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 95
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ooops....Sorry ,,,,,I just reread my previous post. Here's a correction on the authors last name of the book I recommneded.. It's Byron Ayanoglu and his book is available on line for a really good price at www.bookcloseouts.com. I listed that web site in another post that TravelerJan had posted on but I don't recall the subject. In any case the other two guide books I recommned and they are both available on that web site are the "AAA Spiral Guide" to Crete and "Crete" a Cadogan Guide. Both are excellent and small enough that you can bring them with you on the vacation and use the maps on your day trips....
Jun 27th, 2009, 02:20 PM
#20
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 4,205
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I also enjoy all the Cadogan Guides, I have several including the NEWEST, Cadogan Guide to the Pelopponese. These are beautifully written, have fascinating in-depth background, and are just fun reads even if you are not travelling -- much as MFK Fisher is/was fun to read even if you never cook!
Socal -- click my name & then my "Profile" & you'll get my story ... I've been to crete what is is? 5 times? but I do keep up on things there, have internet friends there -- an interesting Crete BB is Interkriti -- mostly cranky UK Expats who complain about not getting their fave TV programs. I am actually more of an expert on Naxos & Nafplio (I am a Destination Expert on Trip Advisor Greece forum). Just got back from 28 days -- Peloponnese, Nafplio, Sifnos, Athens, Naxos, Syros.... travelling solo ... Usually I take along 4-5 people. Am thinking to do that again next year Mid-May ... back to my lovely Crete for 5 days, then Santorini, Naxos, Nafplio and ??? for 17 days. Listen to me! Haven't even done all my trip laundry, and I'm planning another jaunt!
Socal -- click my name & then my "Profile" & you'll get my story ... I've been to crete what is is? 5 times? but I do keep up on things there, have internet friends there -- an interesting Crete BB is Interkriti -- mostly cranky UK Expats who complain about not getting their fave TV programs. I am actually more of an expert on Naxos & Nafplio (I am a Destination Expert on Trip Advisor Greece forum). Just got back from 28 days -- Peloponnese, Nafplio, Sifnos, Athens, Naxos, Syros.... travelling solo ... Usually I take along 4-5 people. Am thinking to do that again next year Mid-May ... back to my lovely Crete for 5 days, then Santorini, Naxos, Nafplio and ??? for 17 days. Listen to me! Haven't even done all my trip laundry, and I'm planning another jaunt!
Thread
Original Poster
Forum
Replies
Last Post
bettybruin
Europe
10
Jan 26th, 2012 12:24 PM
