I usually research trips fairly thoroughly before I go-I enjoy it and I'm sort of compulsive. However, this is such a last minute trip that I am relying on the kindness of Fodorites to help shape the itinerary. I have quickly scanned through the Fodor's Paris guide as well as other similar posts.
About us: this is our first trip to Paris. We are arriving on Sun Oct 4. I am 5 months pregnant. We love both modern and Impressionist art. Our priorities are to enjoy food, people watch, wander through neighborhoods, see a few museums, do a little window shopping. We are staying near Bon Marche, and I think not too far from Luxembourg Gardens. We are taking a red eye and landing in Paris early Sun AM. I tried to create an itinerary that was flexible and not too ambitious. Left Sunday open on purpose, but otherwise did not choose sites on any specific days for any specific reason. Here goes:

Sun-arrive via red eye. Wander Luxembourg Garderns, St Germain, Musee d'Orsay
Mon-Notre Dame, Sainte-Chapelle, wander Latin Quarter, maybe Cluny Museum
Tues-Rodin Museum, Napoleon's tomb, Rue Cler, Trocadero, Eiffel Tower at night
Wed-Wander around le Marais, Pompidou Center
Thurs-Wander down Champs-Elysees, Montmartre, try to be at Sacre-Coeur at twilight
Fri-Louvre, Tuileries Garden, Opera Garnier, Galeries Lafayette
Sat-day trip to Versailles
Sun-open
Mond-return to US
A few questions:
1. Do any days seem too empty or too crowded- how to even out better?
2. Any major sites that would be helpful to book in advance before we go? We aren't planning to take a laptop. Considering buying the Museum pass.
3. Any suggestions on a jazz club for my musician husband?
4. When would be a good night to be at the Arc de Triomphe at night?
Thank you in advance for any suggestions or advice.

If you like Impressionists you might look into the new exhibit at The GrandPalais. If it interests you I'd book and print tickets online before you leave.Some days are already sold out and the lines for purchase will be LONG

I think your itinerary suites a 5 month pregnant lady! It's not too busy but does mean a lot of walking.
Maybe the Musee d'Orsay on the first day is going to be too much and seeing you plan to be in the St Germain area maybe swop it with a visit to the Cluny instead, if you feel up to it? The gardens of this museaum face onto Bld St Germain but the entrance is on the opposite side. We loved sitting in the gardens feeding the little birds. There is a Starbucks right opposite on the corner where you can grab a snack.

Here is my May Trip Report: http://tinyurl.com/ksga8v

Oops! You asked about Jazz Clubs:
There should be a list in that Fodor's Paris Guide you have there, but here are mine:

Baiser Sale`
58 Rue des Lombards
75001
Tel: 01 42 33 37 71

Bilboquet
13 Rue St-Benoit, 75006
Tel: 01 45 48 81 84

Bistrot d'Eustache
37 Rue Berger, Carre` des Halles, 75001
Tel: 01 40 26 23 20

Caveau de la Huchette,
5 rue de la Huchette
Tel: 01 43 26 65 05

Caveau des Oubliettes
52 Rue Galande, 75005

China Club,
50 Rue de Charenton
75012

Le Duc des Lombards,
42 rue des Lombards, 75001

La Grande Halle de la Villette,
211 Ave Jean-Jaures
75019

Jazz Club Lionel Hampton,
Hotel Meridien, 81 Blvd Gouvion-St-Cyr, 75017

New Morning,
7-9 Rue des Petites-Ecuries, 75010

Paris Jazz Festival
Parc Floral Bois de Vincennes, 75012

Le Petit Journal Montparnasse,
13 Rue de Commandant-Mouchotte, 75014

Le Petit Journal St Michel,
71 Blvd St-Michel, 75005

7 Lizards,
10 Rue des Rosiers, 75004

Slow Club,
130 Rue de Rivoli, 75001

Sunset,
60 Rue des Lombards, 75001

Trabendo,
211 Ave Jean -Jaures, 75019

Now all of these clubs can be viewed from the outside on:
http://tinyurl.com/c9rapm
or maybe you will find most have a website so this could be your starting point. I would make a note of all the ones in the same area by noting the Arrondisement code at the end of each address, eg: 75005 or 75019 for instance. Then you could perhaps visit several on the same night?

CONSIDER doing the Eiffel Tower at NIGHT

From Tod's list, I believe China Club and 7 Lezards have closed.

Thank you for your very helpful responses. I hope the forecast doesn't turn out as bad as it looks (rain Mon-Thurs) but we'll just bring rain gear and hope for the best!

My ramblings...

Looks good to me. Some suggestions

Arriving Sunday will you have time and energy to do Orsay? It is open late on Thursdays.

Mon...note that there is entrance to underground ruins in front of Notre Dame..add Ile St Louis, walks along Seine to see bouquinistes,etc..Up above and down below at the river. At this time, or another, a visit to the park at the west end of Ile de la Cite, Square du Vert Galant, which has nice views of the area. Perhaps, on the Left Bank and in the opposite direction (east) is the open air architecture museum along the Seine.

Also at this location is one of the Seine cruise companies. This would be best at night.

Tues looks good. Military Museum is same location as Nap's resting place. I'd also approach Eiffel from Right Bank (which you have, Trocadero). Some awesome views from there. Rue Cler..IMHO not a destination. Rue de Buci (St Germain), Mouffetard (east in the 5th), Montorgueil (Right Bank) are equivalent or better. I like Buci and its area. There will also be farmer's markets in many areas.

Wed...good. Make sure you go to Place des Vosges. Village St Paul is also interesting for its visual treats. I took the two Paris Walsk tours of the Marais and they are worthwhile.

Thurs. Since the Champs is right next to the Louvre, combine?
In the area, Place de la Concorde, Place Vendome, Palais Royal, and the arcades of Rue Rivoli would be nice companiion to Louvre. Perhaps a walk down Faubourg St Honore and its fashions shops. Angelina's is nearby for its well known hot chocolate.

Since you like Impressionnism, the Orangerie, right in this area (perhaps on Fri?). If you like high end antiques for sale, across from the Louvre is the Louvre des Antiquaires.

Fri. Maybe add a walk through the "Passages" which are the 18/19th century equivalent of indoor shopping. In this area.

Impressionism would draw you to the Marmottan museum for Monet. Smaller museum, away from central Paris, but still accessbile by Metro. This might be a nice ooprtunity to get away from the crowds and see one of the nicer outer arrondissements. Near there Rue Mozart has some nice shops, Rotonde de la Muette is a nice seafood restaurant. In this area there are also some architecture by Guimard, who is famous for his Metro entrances. I know someone who took a walking tour to see these..

The Cluny is a nice small museum with Middle Age artifacts, and house in Roman age ruins. If Roman ruins attract you, the Arene de Lutece in the eastern 5th is a roman arena where you could bring a lunch.

The Jacquemart Andre musuem is another small one, with private collection housed in the mansion of the owner. Some masterpieces, and a nice restuarant. Near Galleries Lafayette.

Perhaps a tour to Auvers-sur-Oise to see Van Gogh's grave as well as sites painted by him...or Giverny to see Monet's house and gardens? There are bus tours or you could go solo.

I'll keep thinking of stuff

personally I wouldn't include any museum on the same day I'd gotten off a red-eye flight (but then I can't sleep on planes, if you can maybe that's OK). I'd need more "down time" on that first day.

I second Michel_Paris on visiting the Musee Marmottan Monet. This is where you will find "Impression Sunrise" that gave the movement its name as well as many other Monet paintings. However, for me the big draw is the Berte Marisot collection donated by her grandson - fantastic. She was, after all, the only woman in the "official" Impressionist group. Here's a link to the museum. Very easy to get to on metro line #9 to Muette and then about a four block walk through the lovely Parc Ranleigh.
http://www.marmottan.com/uk/index_uk.asp

The Cluny (Museum of the Middle Ages) is very near Luxembourg Gardens. You might group those together and see them with the Latin Quarter.

You might do the Arc de Triomphe the evening you stroll up the Champs, provided the weather is good. It is part of the group of museums and sites that accept the Paris Museum Pass, which I recommend you purchase. The Pass speeds access to virtually all of its constituent sites and museums. You may also keep in mind that the attaining the rooftop of the Arc, along with many older sites, requires ascending (and descending) stairs.

Have a great trip.

I went to the FNAC website (they have stores in Paris where you can buy tickets) to see what museum events are on-going. A few are:

Renoir in the 20th century at the Grand Palais
Tiffany at the Luxembourg Museum
Old Masters at the Jaquemart
Toulouse Lautrec at the Museum of Decoratif Arts
Visit of Royal Stables at Versailles (10-12AM)

IMO, I would switch your first Sunday with Wednesday. I once arrived on a Sunday, and felt that Paris had rolled up its' sidewalks (but I live in Vegas). You will find more food/cafe choices at le Marais on Sunday... and if you have the energy early in your trip/after a red eye, then you have Pomp Ctr to enjoy and you will still be very close to your hotel as a crashing point if you are tired.

I LOVE the Arc at sunset. I get there 1hr before sunset, and climb the 284/285 steps and enjoy the vista. I have been told there is a lift if you ask. I have never seen it, nor have I ever asked about it - it may get you into the chamber below the rooftop viewing area. Anyone know if this is true? If you are there at sunset, you will see Paris come to life... I suggest you do this after your trip to Versailles when you come back into the city on SATURDAY.

Versailles can be anywhere from a 1/4 day trip to a full day trip depending how far you would like to walk and what you want to see and how you see it. If you do it as a half day, you can get the weekend vibe at the Arc later in the day with a stop over at your hotel or apt and work in a great meal (or two).

Have fun and report back!!!!

~Jay

Thank you so much-this is exactly the advice/insight I was hoping for. I was wondering how alive or dead the St Germain area would be on a Sunday, so Jay your point on switching Sun and Wed is well taken.

I just wanted to second Michel_Paris' suggestion of the Musee de l'Orangerie- especially since you say you like modern art as well as the impressionists. It's got Derains, Picassos, Soutines...

http://www.musee-orangerie.fr/

Jaymazz - The entrance to the elevator is in a small side area (that may look like a doorway) in one of the four columns or bases of the Arc de Triomphe. (I have never walked up). It takes you to the gift shop below the rooftop viewing area. You can also go down this way.

Novice35 - The St-Germain area is always alive! Especially around Deux Magots & Cafe de Flore.

The view from the Trocadero towards the Eiffel Tower as she lights up cannot be beaten. In summer when the sun sets late in the evening, an atmosphere of anticipation hangs in the air amid the laughter and conversation of the crowd.
Sometimes the soft beating of the Bongo drums can be heard coming from down below near the flountains.

I also highly recommend the Orangerie and the Marmottan, and, at the risk of overdosing on Monet, Giverny. I think seeing Giverny and then seeing all of the waterlily canvases is just a mind-blowing experience.

I have also made the pilgrimage to Auvers to follow the tourist trail along which many of Van Gogh's most famous works were painted as well as his grave and the house where he lived, but that is a great deal of walking, as interesting a trek as it is.

If you went Maison Fournaise in Chatou, you could eat and be at the location where Renoir painted 'Luncheon of the Boating Party'.

MAISON FOURNAISE: This is an excert from my trip report in 2008.

We say 'Au revoir' to Madam and thank her profusely for looking after our stuff before heading down the driveway and back down to the metro.

Our plans for the day are to head out to the historic Les Amis De La Maison Fournaise.
Taking the RER A from Charles de Gaulle-Etoile metro station we arrive within 20 minutes at Rueil Malmaison station.
Now this is where maps not drawn to scale become a slight problem!
I took the sketch off the internet and followed the instructions accordingly.
We started towards the bridge but unsure whether we were heading in the correct direction stopped to ask a man coming towards us.
Unfortunately he had never heard of Maison Fournaise (probably because of our lousy pronunciation) so we carried on.

The weather was just perfect. Sunny & hot!
As we hit the bridge across the Seine, which is incredibly wide at this point, we spotted the restaurant on the river bank.
It's quite a walk - 35 minutes easily.

LIEU DE RECONTRE DE PEINTRES IMPRESSIONISTES

The setting is incredible.
The Seine is flowing like a long blue ribbon, so calm that the trees on the bank make a mirror image.
We arrive at the back of the restaurant and not knowing quite which way to go we make for the lawned area in front and soon discover that the entrance in on the otherside, but no matter, we are in super early time - just 1pm and there are dozens of tables to choose from.

I ask if we could be seated on the verandah and we get a table up against the wooden railing.
The view is gorgeous and we watch water craft arrive and dock on the opposite bank.

Starting with a Kir & DH a beer we peruse the lovely menu.
We decide to have the 'Menu de Jour' which I can't clearly remember but will identify on the photos. This is the only time we photographed the food!
Total bill - 71,55 euro which included wine.

Although it was a blazingly sunny day the restaurant had not opened the red & white striped awning over the terrace. A bit of a pity when it came to the photographs.
Well fed we took a stroll around downstairs in the courtyard which had another restaurant on the opposite side.
I called in at their little gift shop which sold cups & saucers, scarves etc., all to do with the impressionists.
I was pleased to find a tiny coffee cup which had part of a Renoir painting on it.
LUNCH MENU MAISON FOURNAISE

My photos of our lunch reminded me that we started with a small plate of little cheese puffs accompanied by spicy assorted nuts.
That went down very well with our aperitifs!
The set lunch menu with choices:
Starters were a local dry-cured ham and melon for DH - I had the avocado & prawn cocktail.
Mains were fish for me and lamb for DH.
The desserts were a three layered Chocolate mousse served in a wine
glass - me, and DH had some kind of strawberry cake beautifully decorated.

Photos:http://tinyurl.com/3tfj28

Back across the bridge to the station and Paris.

Thanks Tod. I knew there was a good trip report out there on a visit there...and here it is. I'm putting it on my 'menu'